Those numbers sound quite low.
Which engine are we talking about?
At least they are quite even across cylinders.

 

Those numbers sound quite low.

I agree.
And FWIW I don't think there is any difference between the 2.0 & 2.4 cylinder compressions, assuming we're comparing like for like (ie both GDi or MPi)

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated​

 

For the turbo model I think the numbers ara ok, for the 2.4 they are a little low. But the short block has a lifetime warranty for the Pistons, rings, crank, and bearings. So if it starts using more than a qt in 1000 miles, or seizes, they will replace it. The transmission, as long as you drain and refill every 50-100 k miles, and see no weirdness, or slipping, you are good to go.

 

The turbo model surely has lower compression than the NA.
Those are low numbers for the turbo and lousy numbers for the non-turbo.
I'm sure the 2.4 has at least 10:1 compression (MPI version is 10.3:1) and I'd expect close to 200 psi in a healthy engine.

 

The turbo model surely has lower compression than the NA.

Perhaps it does. I've been known to be wrong on occasion.
Regardless, the OP's compression figures are poor. I'm not wrong about that

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated​

 

IDK the ratio on the 2.0t, but I remember seeing many turbo gasoline vehicles at 7.5:1

 

Those numbers are pretty low so there is definitely some engine wear going on. Good news is they are pretty equal for the most part so the engine should run and idle smoothly and not have much of a drive ability issue, but it is probably down on power.

 

Interesting to see that the compression doesn't seem to improve much when tested wet. If the rings were worn I would expect the compression to jump right up when a small amount of oil was added to the cylinder.

Hopefully the mechanic doing the testing removed all plugs and opened the throttle fully to allow the best compression to be developed.

 

Try another compression gauge before jumping to conclusions.

 

I took it down to the Hyundai Dealer. They will change my PCCV and see what happens. After that they will begin monitoring my oil use. Right now the car used 1 Quart of regular oil (not synthetic) in 1200 miles.

 

I was gonna say something about synthetic oil but you're using regular so I'd stay with that since your engine is old and that I'm sure there's sludge build up. I gonna assume that the seals are worn and needs to be replaced. Maybe the sludge kinda broken up causing a leak cause sludge can plug up. I may obviously be way wrong here tho.

If it's GDI then I'd just keep using it till it begs for mercy cause ain't much you can really do with them since ALL DI engines are known for insane carbon buildup. Of course you could walnut blast it but it's not cheap.

Just trying to help. Also, 148K miles is great to hear. Hopefully you reach 200K. And since certain parts are lifetime warranty, Id get those new parts Installed, Use full synthetic oil after the inside is clean, and just be on your way.

 

That is bordering on excessive. Another common cause of high oil consumption is valve stem seals. Also a measurement of the intake manifold vacuum can help diagnose ring problems.

 

Also a measurement of the intake manifold vacuum can help diagnose ring problems.

How does the test procedure go for doing that?
I've never heard of using manifold vacuum as an indicator of ring wear.

 

How does the test procedure go for doing that?

Simply fit a vacuum gauge to the intake manifold. Good rings will have between 18 to 21 inches and worn rings will have less. Obviously there are factors like compression ratio and valve timing that influence the reading but you can get a good idea. You can do it with a scantool if you have a map sensor but the figures will be different.

 

Simply fit a vacuum gauge to the intake manifold. Good rings will have between 18 to 21 inches

Sounds proper old school!
I would imagine by measuring low vacuum you would be measuring a symptom, not the cause. Probably very difficult to really attribute that low vacuum to bad rings, due to low compression with any certainty.

I would be checking compression, maybe leak down, and checking for blow-by rather than pulling out the vacuum guage.

 

I like to do four tests on an engine. Compression, cylinder leakage, manifold vacuum and a power balance test. From those tests you can get a real good picture of the engine condition and what may be wrong.
You would be surprised just what you can pick up with the vacuum test but you do have to know what your looking at.

 

Both the 2.4L and the 2.0T have the same compression numbers. Should be 192psi - 171psi and they should be within at least 15psi of each other.

I would suggest doing an induction cleaning and bumping up oil viscosity (5w30 for 2.4, 5w40 for 2.0T).

 

Both the 2.4L and the 2.0T have the same compression numbers. Should be 192psi - 171psi and they should be within at least 15psi of each other.

I would suggest doing an induction cleaning and bumping up oil viscosity (5w30 for 2.4, 5w40 for 2.0T).

View attachment 451268

Thank you, finally someone who gets it. Seems like a lot of people are confusing compression ratio with overall cylinder compression test.

 

Thank for you for proving my point. The Mazda Skyactiv 2.0 and 2.5 come to mind with high compression ratio of 14.0:1 I believe but very low cylinder compression #’s due to the valve timing.

 

2013 Elantra LTD with Teck package, 4 door. T18L motor.
Repairman said 1 and 4 cylinders were very low compression and vehicle needed a motor.
I came back, checked compression 190-195. (Which no where can I find anyone or a publication that gives a T18L motors factory compression. So these are just 'numbers'. This is a high octane motor, so I assume 190-195 is decent for a 122k mile motor.
I then switched plugs, nothing changed, then I switched the coils, and a lot happened! I bought 2 new coils, for 1 and 4 cylinders... boom. car runs smooth. Very smooth. New car smooth. The car repair shops (even the 5 star rated ones) need to do a better job. I don't mind paying for a deep diagnostic, I do mind paying when they get it wrong.
I am rechecking compression today. 3 weeks later. will pull all plugs and make sure the fuse to fuel injector is removed. Motor will be tested warm. I will post update here.

 

2013 Elantra LTD with Teck package, 4 door. T18L motor.
Repairman said 1 and 4 cylinders were very low compression and vehicle needed a motor.
I came back, checked compression 190-195. (Which no where can I find anyone or a publication that gives a T18L motors factory compression. So these are just 'numbers'. This is a high octane motor, so I assume 190-195 is decent for a 122k mile motor.
I then switched plugs, nothing changed, then I switched the coils, and a lot happened! I bought 2 new coils, for 1 and 4 cylinders... boom. car runs smooth. Very smooth. New car smooth. The car repair shops (even the 5 star rated ones) need to do a better job. I don't mind paying for a deep diagnostic, I do mind paying when they get it wrong.
I am rechecking compression today. 3 weeks later. will pull all plugs and make sure the fuse to fuel injector is removed. Motor will be tested warm. I will post update here.

2013 Elantra LTD with Teck package, 4 door. T18L motor.
Repairman said 1 and 4 cylinders were very low compression and vehicle needed a motor.
I came back, checked compression 190-195. (Which no where can I find anyone or a publication that gives a T18L motors factory compression. So these are just 'numbers'. This is a high octane motor, so I assume 190-195 is decent for a 122k mile motor.
I then switched plugs, nothing changed, then I switched the coils, and a lot happened! I bought 2 new coils, for 1 and 4 cylinders... boom. car runs smooth. Very smooth. New car smooth. The car repair shops (even the 5 star rated ones) need to do a better job. I don't mind paying for a deep diagnostic, I do mind paying when they get it wrong.
I am rechecking compression today. 3 weeks later. will pull all plugs and make sure the fuse to fuel injector is removed. Motor will be tested warm. I will post update here.

Cylinder 1 185# 2. #180 3. #190 4. #195 the mechanic said cylinders 1 and 4 were at 40% of the highest number. So much for a 5 star shop!

Drove today for 20 miles, stop and go, freeway speeds to 80 mph. 4th and 5th gear driving. Motor was fine.
2nd opinions matter. And I was able to do my own. I may be old, but I have done motors, a lot of motors.

The warning sign that they got it wrong. I track gas milage. Over the last 2000 miles I got between 21 mpg city and 39 mpg freeway. tank after tank after tank after tank. You do not get that with a motor running on 2 cylinders. And I told the service writer that. We are almost original owners, serviced as required (even slightlybetter) and the person who did the diagnostic on the car just blew it.
2013 Elantra LTD

 

When you do the compression test note how many revolutions it takes each cylinder to reach the maximum reading. Two to four is a good strong engine. More than that indicates weak rings.