Through lots of searching I was able to find out how to install my radio. In case it's helpful for anyone else here is what I learned:
correct wiring diagram:
http://www.modifiedlife.com/2008-hyundai-a...re-color-codes/
2008 Hyundai Accent Car Stereo Wire Color Codes
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Red
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Green
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black or Gray/Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Yellow
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: Pink
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: Blue
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: Located on the right side of the trunk cargo area, behind the plastic trim.
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Black
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Red
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Green
This is needed to match up with the wires from the new radio. The above was correct, I saw a ton of different charts all over the web, hard to know what's what out there sometimes. This worked on my 2010 Accent.
Removing the old radio, or the empty trays if there's no radio, is easy. The entire plastic oval shaped area in the dash that surrounds the radio and a few other lights and stuff pops out. Use something thin and strong (I used a bayonette, hehe). Start in lower right corner, doesn't take much force. Once you can get your fingers under it, the rest pops off no problem.
From there just use a screwdriver. In my case the 4 front facing and easily accessible screws came right out. Splicing all the wires together was a major hassle. Worse was trying to get the radio in the slot so it will look good. Mine (Alpine/$150) fit without any special attachments or kits. Just needed to buy some crimp caps, or could have soldered the wires.
In retrospect it may have been worth the $100 to have the dealer do it, but now I have the knowledge
correct wiring diagram:
http://www.modifiedlife.com/2008-hyundai-a...re-color-codes/
2008 Hyundai Accent Car Stereo Wire Color Codes
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Red
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Green
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black or Gray/Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Yellow
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: Pink
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: Blue
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: Located on the right side of the trunk cargo area, behind the plastic trim.
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Black
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Red
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Green
This is needed to match up with the wires from the new radio. The above was correct, I saw a ton of different charts all over the web, hard to know what's what out there sometimes. This worked on my 2010 Accent.
Removing the old radio, or the empty trays if there's no radio, is easy. The entire plastic oval shaped area in the dash that surrounds the radio and a few other lights and stuff pops out. Use something thin and strong (I used a bayonette, hehe). Start in lower right corner, doesn't take much force. Once you can get your fingers under it, the rest pops off no problem.
From there just use a screwdriver. In my case the 4 front facing and easily accessible screws came right out. Splicing all the wires together was a major hassle. Worse was trying to get the radio in the slot so it will look good. Mine (Alpine/$150) fit without any special attachments or kits. Just needed to buy some crimp caps, or could have soldered the wires.
In retrospect it may have been worth the $100 to have the dealer do it, but now I have the knowledge
