I'm a DIY kinda guy, so I wanted find the oil filter on my 2.4L. What a discovery. There is a plastic cover over the entire undercarriage with what appears to be 2 flaps. One says oil filter but I couldn't see the 2nd one further back. I would have to jack up the SF to access these flaps. Any one done an oil change yet?
DocBo
1.
Park the car on level ground.
Start the engine and let it warm up.
2.
Drain engine oil.
(1)
Remove the oil filler cap.
(2)
After lifting the car, remove the oil drain plug hole cover.
(3)
Remove the oil drain plug and drain oil into a container.
3.
Remove the oil filter(A) with the SST(09263-2E000, the oil filter wrench).
(1)
Remove the oil filter.
(2)
Check and clean the oil filter installation surface.
(3)
Check the part number of the new oil filter is as same as old one.
(4)
Apply clean engine oil to the gasket of a new oil filter.
(5)
Lightly screw the oil filter into place, and tighten it until the gasket contacts the seat.
(6)
Tighten it with the torque below.
Tightening torque :
11.8 ~ 15.7 N.m (1.2 ~ 1.6 kgf.m, 8.7 ~ 11.6 lb-ft)
4.
Install the oil drain plug with a new gasket.
Tightening torque :
34.3 ~ 44.1 N.m (3.5 ~ 4.5 kgf.m, 25.3 ~ 32.5 lb-ft)
5.
Fill with new engine oil, after removing the engine oil level gauge.
Capacity
Total
5.5 L (1.45 U.S.gal., 5.81 U.S.qt., 4.84 lmp.qt.)
Oil pan
4.2 L (1.11 U.S.gal., 4.44 U.S.qt., 3.70 lmp.qt.)
Drain and refill including oil filter
4.6 L (1.22 U.S.gal., 4.86 U.S.qt., 4.05 lmp.qt.)
6.
Install the oil filler cap.
7.
Start engine and check for oil leaks and check the oil gauge or light for an indication of oil pressure.
8.
Recheck the engine oil level.
Oil and filter replacement
•
Prolonged and repeated contact with mineral oil will result in the removal of natural fats from the skin, leading to dryness, irritation and dermatitis. In addition, used engine oil contains potentially harmful contaminants which may cause skin cancer.
•
Exercise caution in order to minimize the length and frequency of contact of your skin to used oil. Wear protective clothing and gloves. Wash your skin thoroughly with soap and water, or use water-less hand cleaner, to remove any used engine oil. Do not use gasoline, thinners, or solvents.
•
In order to preserve the environment, used oil and used oil filter must be disposed of only at designated disposal sites.
1.
Park the car on level ground.
Start the engine and let it warm up.
2.
Drain engine oil.
(1)
Remove the oil filler cap.
(2)
After lifting the car, remove the oil drain plug hole cover.
(3)
Remove the oil drain plug and drain oil into a container.
3.
Remove the oil filter(A) with the SST(09263-2E000, the oil filter wrench).
(1)
Remove the oil filter.
(2)
Check and clean the oil filter installation surface.
(3)
Check the part number of the new oil filter is as same as old one.
(4)
Apply clean engine oil to the gasket of a new oil filter.
(5)
Lightly screw the oil filter into place, and tighten it until the gasket contacts the seat.
(6)
Tighten it with the torque below.
Tightening torque :
11.8 ~ 15.7 N.m (1.2 ~ 1.6 kgf.m, 8.7 ~ 11.6 lb-ft)
4.
Install the oil drain plug with a new gasket.
Tightening torque :
34.3 ~ 44.1 N.m (3.5 ~ 4.5 kgf.m, 25.3 ~ 32.5 lb-ft)
5.
Fill with new engine oil, after removing the engine oil level gauge.
Capacity
Total
6.1 L (1.61 U.S.gal., 6.44 U.S.qt., 5.36 lmp.qt.)
Oil pan
4.6 L (1.21 U.S.gal., 4.86 U.S.qt., 4.04 lmp.qt.)
Drain and refill including oil filter
5.0 L (1.32 U.S.gal., 5.28 U.S.qt., 4.39 lmp.qt.)
6.
Install the oil filler cap.
7.
Start engine and check for oil leaks and check the oil gauge or light for an indication of oil pressure.
8.
Recheck the engine oil level.
Inspection
1.
Check the engine oil quality.
Check the oil deterioration, entry of water, discoloring of thinning. If the quality is visibly poor, replace the oil.
2.
Check the engine oil level.
After engine warm up stop the engine wait 5 minutes then check the oil level. Oil level should be between the "L" and "F" marks on the dipstick. If low check for leakage and add oil up to the "F" mark.
Do not fill with engine oil above the "F" mark.
Selection Of Engine Oil
Recommendation :
5W-20 / API SM, ILSAC GF4
(If not available, refer to the recommended API or ILSAC classification
API classification: SL, SM or above
ILSAC classification : GF3, GF4 or above
ACEA classification : A3, A5 or above
SAE viscosity grade : Refer to the recommended SAE viscosity number
Park the car on level ground.
Start the engine and let it warm up.
2.
Drain engine oil.
(1)
Remove the oil filler cap.
(2)
After lifting the car, remove the oil drain plug hole cover.
(3)
Remove the oil drain plug and drain oil into a container.
3.
Remove the oil filter(A) with the SST(09263-2E000, the oil filter wrench).
(1)
Remove the oil filter.
(2)
Check and clean the oil filter installation surface.
(3)
Check the part number of the new oil filter is as same as old one.
(4)
Apply clean engine oil to the gasket of a new oil filter.
(5)
Lightly screw the oil filter into place, and tighten it until the gasket contacts the seat.
(6)
Tighten it with the torque below.
Tightening torque :
11.8 ~ 15.7 N.m (1.2 ~ 1.6 kgf.m, 8.7 ~ 11.6 lb-ft)
4.
Install the oil drain plug with a new gasket.
Tightening torque :
34.3 ~ 44.1 N.m (3.5 ~ 4.5 kgf.m, 25.3 ~ 32.5 lb-ft)
5.
Fill with new engine oil, after removing the engine oil level gauge.
Capacity
Total
5.5 L (1.45 U.S.gal., 5.81 U.S.qt., 4.84 lmp.qt.)
Oil pan
4.2 L (1.11 U.S.gal., 4.44 U.S.qt., 3.70 lmp.qt.)
Drain and refill including oil filter
4.6 L (1.22 U.S.gal., 4.86 U.S.qt., 4.05 lmp.qt.)
6.
Install the oil filler cap.
7.
Start engine and check for oil leaks and check the oil gauge or light for an indication of oil pressure.
8.
Recheck the engine oil level.
Oil and filter replacement
•
Prolonged and repeated contact with mineral oil will result in the removal of natural fats from the skin, leading to dryness, irritation and dermatitis. In addition, used engine oil contains potentially harmful contaminants which may cause skin cancer.
•
Exercise caution in order to minimize the length and frequency of contact of your skin to used oil. Wear protective clothing and gloves. Wash your skin thoroughly with soap and water, or use water-less hand cleaner, to remove any used engine oil. Do not use gasoline, thinners, or solvents.
•
In order to preserve the environment, used oil and used oil filter must be disposed of only at designated disposal sites.
1.
Park the car on level ground.
Start the engine and let it warm up.
2.
Drain engine oil.
(1)
Remove the oil filler cap.
(2)
After lifting the car, remove the oil drain plug hole cover.
(3)
Remove the oil drain plug and drain oil into a container.
3.
Remove the oil filter(A) with the SST(09263-2E000, the oil filter wrench).
(1)
Remove the oil filter.
(2)
Check and clean the oil filter installation surface.
(3)
Check the part number of the new oil filter is as same as old one.
(4)
Apply clean engine oil to the gasket of a new oil filter.
(5)
Lightly screw the oil filter into place, and tighten it until the gasket contacts the seat.
(6)
Tighten it with the torque below.
Tightening torque :
11.8 ~ 15.7 N.m (1.2 ~ 1.6 kgf.m, 8.7 ~ 11.6 lb-ft)
4.
Install the oil drain plug with a new gasket.
Tightening torque :
34.3 ~ 44.1 N.m (3.5 ~ 4.5 kgf.m, 25.3 ~ 32.5 lb-ft)
5.
Fill with new engine oil, after removing the engine oil level gauge.
Capacity
Total
6.1 L (1.61 U.S.gal., 6.44 U.S.qt., 5.36 lmp.qt.)
Oil pan
4.6 L (1.21 U.S.gal., 4.86 U.S.qt., 4.04 lmp.qt.)
Drain and refill including oil filter
5.0 L (1.32 U.S.gal., 5.28 U.S.qt., 4.39 lmp.qt.)
6.
Install the oil filler cap.
7.
Start engine and check for oil leaks and check the oil gauge or light for an indication of oil pressure.
8.
Recheck the engine oil level.
Inspection
1.
Check the engine oil quality.
Check the oil deterioration, entry of water, discoloring of thinning. If the quality is visibly poor, replace the oil.
2.
Check the engine oil level.
After engine warm up stop the engine wait 5 minutes then check the oil level. Oil level should be between the "L" and "F" marks on the dipstick. If low check for leakage and add oil up to the "F" mark.
Do not fill with engine oil above the "F" mark.
Selection Of Engine Oil
Recommendation :
5W-20 / API SM, ILSAC GF4
(If not available, refer to the recommended API or ILSAC classification
API classification: SL, SM or above
ILSAC classification : GF3, GF4 or above
ACEA classification : A3, A5 or above
SAE viscosity grade : Refer to the recommended SAE viscosity number
I did my first oil and filter change. The two plastic covers for filter access and drain plug access unsnap from the belly pan. Removing the oil filter is messy (I used a latex hospital glove to avoid most of the mess. Also, as mentioned above--the oil filter is large and I had to use my adjustable wrench to turn and remove it. Like this Craftsman Universal Wrench, Auto-Adjustable: Save Time With Sears
BTW...the stock Hyundai filter uses am 80mm/15 flat cap type wrench.
The drain plug is easily removed/replaced. All in all it is an easy vehicle to change the oil/filter. I was able to access everything by laying on the garage floor and jacking up the right front side of the SF on the body jack point.
BTW...the stock Hyundai filter uses am 80mm/15 flat cap type wrench.
The drain plug is easily removed/replaced. All in all it is an easy vehicle to change the oil/filter. I was able to access everything by laying on the garage floor and jacking up the right front side of the SF on the body jack point.
I've always used these on my vehicles:
QuickOilDrainValve.com
It's basically a spigot that drains cleanly into the pan - none of that initial burst of oil when the plug comes off. Set the pan, open valve, walk away. Come back a few minutes later, close and refill.
QuickOilDrainValve.com
It's basically a spigot that drains cleanly into the pan - none of that initial burst of oil when the plug comes off. Set the pan, open valve, walk away. Come back a few minutes later, close and refill.
The underbody tray comes off very easily with just a handful of bolts and gives you so much more room and ease of access. I've done two oil changes to our SF so far. First time I didn't remove the cover right away, second time I learned and just took it off first thing. So much better. No special tools or oil filter ratchets are required.
I agree with this. When on the optima forum I almost drank the cool aid, but just couldn't bring myself to trust it.
Sent from AutoGuide.com App
Sent from AutoGuide.com App
I note that you can also purchase a small security clip for added protection against accidental movement of the on/off lever.
OK, here is my further word on the subject.
If you have the proper ramps make certain they will not hang on the front facia or you will be very sorry. I learned this the hard way on a Kia I previously owned. If you don't use ramps which is what I started doing, I got two small floor jacks and "carefully" jacked up each side to gain clearance to get at the oil filter. Once proper clearance is gained, it is a very easy job.
Then the fun starts. As the filter is loosed up using the proper 80 mm filter wrench, you can watch the oil dripping and running down your arm onto your best white shirt (just kidding) and your hands will get all greasy so that you can just barely handle the hot filter. And then watch it fall into the pan of oil splashing everywhere on your garage floor or driveway. Be sure to have plenty of Oil-Dry or cat litter handy. After you clean up the mess and hope your garage floor isn't permanently stained, then you can pull out the pan holding the oil, meanwhile watching more oil slop around on your floor, your hands and clothing. Oh, such fun.
Clean the surface of the oil filter engine surface and screw on the new oil filter. Then carefully, not too loose, nor too tight. Wipe everything down. Then put in the oil pan bolt with new crush gasket and wipe everything down. Keep some hand cleaner handy to clean your hands. It works better than everything being drenched with oil. And fish your wrenches out of the dirty oil.
Open up your hood and carefully put a proper funnel in the fill location and try to keep from spilling oil all over the top of the engine, etc. Put in the proper amount of oil; being careful not to overfill.
When you have done this, reverse the procedure, carefully lowering the car, close your hood and check to see the engine light goes off.
Then get a container to catch the oil so it can be recycled along with the oil from the filter. Then you should also crush the oil filter using a special device to eliminate any oil from being put into the refuse which in some localities is illegal. Put on the label on the windshield and go in and wash your hands and swear "NEVER AGAIN." Drive to the local Auto Zone or whoever accepts used oil at $0.14 cents per mile traveled. Stand in line and hope the counter man will take it or be told his allotment is used up for this month. Hmmmmm, this is getting more expensive and aggravating the more one thinks about it.
Doesn't $24.95 and the dealer do all the work and put into his computer sound a lot more simpler?
Hate me if you will but I have done this too many times to count. Unless the cost is prohibitive it is simply not worth doing. Make an appointment with the dealer, drive in, drive out in half and hour and wait until the next 5,000 miles or six months have elapsed and repeat the process. Meanwhile he keeps all this in the computer to verify you had the necessary service completed. If you do it at home you will need to "prove" you did the required service or risk warranty denial.
And I have not counted the cost of the tools and the expensive but required torque wrench to tighten the oil plug. Too loose and the plug comes out along with your new oil and you have a $6,000 repair job on your hands or too tight and have a $500 replacement of the oil pan if the threads are stripped.
If you have the proper ramps make certain they will not hang on the front facia or you will be very sorry. I learned this the hard way on a Kia I previously owned. If you don't use ramps which is what I started doing, I got two small floor jacks and "carefully" jacked up each side to gain clearance to get at the oil filter. Once proper clearance is gained, it is a very easy job.
Then the fun starts. As the filter is loosed up using the proper 80 mm filter wrench, you can watch the oil dripping and running down your arm onto your best white shirt (just kidding) and your hands will get all greasy so that you can just barely handle the hot filter. And then watch it fall into the pan of oil splashing everywhere on your garage floor or driveway. Be sure to have plenty of Oil-Dry or cat litter handy. After you clean up the mess and hope your garage floor isn't permanently stained, then you can pull out the pan holding the oil, meanwhile watching more oil slop around on your floor, your hands and clothing. Oh, such fun.
Clean the surface of the oil filter engine surface and screw on the new oil filter. Then carefully, not too loose, nor too tight. Wipe everything down. Then put in the oil pan bolt with new crush gasket and wipe everything down. Keep some hand cleaner handy to clean your hands. It works better than everything being drenched with oil. And fish your wrenches out of the dirty oil.
Open up your hood and carefully put a proper funnel in the fill location and try to keep from spilling oil all over the top of the engine, etc. Put in the proper amount of oil; being careful not to overfill.
When you have done this, reverse the procedure, carefully lowering the car, close your hood and check to see the engine light goes off.
Then get a container to catch the oil so it can be recycled along with the oil from the filter. Then you should also crush the oil filter using a special device to eliminate any oil from being put into the refuse which in some localities is illegal. Put on the label on the windshield and go in and wash your hands and swear "NEVER AGAIN." Drive to the local Auto Zone or whoever accepts used oil at $0.14 cents per mile traveled. Stand in line and hope the counter man will take it or be told his allotment is used up for this month. Hmmmmm, this is getting more expensive and aggravating the more one thinks about it.
Doesn't $24.95 and the dealer do all the work and put into his computer sound a lot more simpler?
Hate me if you will but I have done this too many times to count. Unless the cost is prohibitive it is simply not worth doing. Make an appointment with the dealer, drive in, drive out in half and hour and wait until the next 5,000 miles or six months have elapsed and repeat the process. Meanwhile he keeps all this in the computer to verify you had the necessary service completed. If you do it at home you will need to "prove" you did the required service or risk warranty denial.
And I have not counted the cost of the tools and the expensive but required torque wrench to tighten the oil plug. Too loose and the plug comes out along with your new oil and you have a $6,000 repair job on your hands or too tight and have a $500 replacement of the oil pan if the threads are stripped.
+1 :amen:
I used to change the oil on all my vehicles, and now, I simply do not have the patience nor time to do this particular messy work. It also means going out getting my own oil, finding a decent filter, and then also deal with the used oil which must be disposed of properly. I would rather pay the $40-$45 here to have my oil changed at the dealer, and try to time it so I have a bunch of things looked at at the same time.
But, for those that do have the time or prefer to do it themselves, this drain valve seems like a great idea. I know it's been around for quite a while...almost bought one for my 2005 Outback many years ago.
I did mine last night. Switched over to synthetic. Dealer wanted $80....no thanks. Went to the local store, got a 5qt jug and filter for $29.99 and did it myself in 20 minutes.
Other than the ridiculous access panel for the oil filter, which ends up making a mess everywhere, it was easy peasy. Having drive up ramps really simplifies the process.
Other than the ridiculous access panel for the oil filter, which ends up making a mess everywhere, it was easy peasy. Having drive up ramps really simplifies the process.
I normally do all my oil changes but on the Santa Fe I am having the dealer do it. The reason being is if I follow the prescribed service interval of the vehicle the dealer will install new tires free of charge for the life of the vehicle, once the tires wear down. I think you are eligible for new tires starting at 30,000 miles. It is in the contract that they must be replaced with the same or equivalent tires that came on the vehicle, not some cheap junk. I figured there was a catch but have not found one yet.
So, I was just down to the dealer for a oil change. Never asked how much it was going to be, but I did ask about the oil and it is a dyno-synthetic blend. When I went to pay the bill I was sorta holding my breath and the lady said "that will be $30.30 please". I was like seriously, thats it???
So I happily paid the bill and then I donated $15 to the Hyundai Helping Hands which then, get this, gives me $25 off of my next oil change. So my next oil change will be about $5. *scratching head*
So, I was just down to the dealer for a oil change. Never asked how much it was going to be, but I did ask about the oil and it is a dyno-synthetic blend. When I went to pay the bill I was sorta holding my breath and the lady said "that will be $30.30 please". I was like seriously, thats it???
So I happily paid the bill and then I donated $15 to the Hyundai Helping Hands which then, get this, gives me $25 off of my next oil change. So my next oil change will be about $5. *scratching head*
While I strongly recommend dealer oil changes, I do also recommend that one rotate their own tires. I do not like those impact wrenches being used. I always carefully torque down the wheel lug nuts.
And when it comes time to buy new tires, just go to the dealer. They usually stock what will work. And if they skin up the rims then I would raise a stink. That's what I always do and the prices are usually quite competitive. But when you are home, retorque the lug nuts.
And when it comes time to buy new tires, just go to the dealer. They usually stock what will work. And if they skin up the rims then I would raise a stink. That's what I always do and the prices are usually quite competitive. But when you are home, retorque the lug nuts.
FYI, I am good for 10 DYI filter/oil changes......I just received my package of 10 genuine Hyundai oil filter/drain bolt washers today from an EBay vendor for $54.00.............with the oil of my choice--------of course.
I did my first oil change on my Santa Fe in 3 ez steps:
1. go to parts store and buy oil
2. make appointement with Hundai dealer over phone
3. take Santa Fe to said Hyundai dealer....drink his free coffee and eat his free cookies for
about a half hour....then drive away happy.
1. go to parts store and buy oil
2. make appointement with Hundai dealer over phone
3. take Santa Fe to said Hyundai dealer....drink his free coffee and eat his free cookies for
about a half hour....then drive away happy.
I also have the 2.4. My first change was at 4200 miles. I would have waited until 5000, but, in January I had gone from the cold Northeast USA (7 degrees when I left) to warm Florida (75 degrees when I arrived) and wanted the summer weight oil put in. I use what ever non synthetic oil and weight the dealership uses.
John
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