Jerry Wow 6 hours to do the fronts I guess you were really careful. I looked at those Kenwoods too, had good luck with that brand in the past. Now that you have the fronts done I bet you are itching to do the rear. if you get basic 2 way or 3 way for the rear it will be a much faster job.

 

Yeah, I have a pair of 2 way 6 1/2" Kickers that should fit nicely back there. In fact since I'm on vacation, I'm doing it today. Yikes, do you read minds or what? Right now, the rears are turned off as there is no need for them. After install, I would like to at least have some ambient sound back there to fill a surround like sound in the car.
I'm shooting for no more than an hour per side with the rears. I was distracted many times on the fronts so should be much faster this time.

 

So Jerry how did they come out? The rear doors were definitely easier for me.

 

What tool to remove the speakers? I'm unfamiliar with this circle shape...

 

Are referring to removing the speakers from the buckets? If so, a simple scissors or blade knife for the speaker's rubber surrounds. For the speaker supports, use a diagonal wire cutter.

 

ok.
so i just placed order for 6030cs, do u think futureshop/besbuy can do the replacement for me?

 

oh and whats good sound dampening kit?
NXV? can anyone give me a link where can i get them?
I checked ebay and the shipping cost like 125$ lol.

thanks.
and i couldnt edit my post ^

 

If you pulled 90 watts through 22 AWG wire, you would have 1.87 decibels of loss. This is an audible difference in sound output (1 decibel) . 14 AWG only has 0.32 dB of loss in the same scenario.

My example of wire sizes in my above post shows that 14 AWG would draw 20% more power than 22 AWG. If you want to take that risk with your car, go ahead.

You can't be serious about 28 AWG and 8 AWG having no electrical difference. 90 W at the amp through 15 feet of 28 AWG is only 23 W at the speaker versus 88 W with 8 AWG. I don't know about you, but I can tell the difference between 23 W and 88 W, and if your system was relying on that speaker wire to add additional load to the circuit, you'd be drawing almost 4 times the rated output of the amp. Do you really believe there is "ZERO" electrical difference in this scenario?

 

i never said that it would have no electrical difference...i tried to say that it would not have any negative impact on the amp or the speaker electrically.

The only reason i commented on your statements to begin with , was that it seemed like you are telling people that it was possible that their wire choice should have an impact on what speakers they choose, and/or vice versa...they should choose a wire gauge based on what impedance speakers they bought.

If this is what you are suggesting, it is just factually inaccurate....and if i misunderstood then i apologize..either way but i suggest we move on.

 

Thanks silvergls for your amazing thread and replies!

I've started this project myself in my new Elantra. I'm halfway done and will be updating in a few days when the next set goes in.

For anyone interested here is a link to my 2013 Elantra Component Speaker Install

 

For what is worth, I chose 14 gage wire for my speakers/amp (75 per speaker). For my sub, I ran 12 gage (300 w).

Just wanted to make sure all the power could flow with minimal resistence.

 

Are these sold as a pair (so 2 woofer and 2 tweeters) or as just one (one woofer and tweeter)

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Reference-6030cs-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B002BS5YAA[/ame]


Also, has anyone tried the Polk DB6501 set? Same price. I have a set of Polk RT600's at home and love them. 4ohm though...
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1342584136&sr=1-1[/ame]

 

Are these sold as a pair (so 2 woofer and 2 tweeters) or as just one (one woofer and tweeter)

http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Reference-6030cs-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B002BS5YAA


Also, has anyone tried the Polk DB6501 set? Same price. I have a set of Polk RT600's at home and love them. 4ohm though...
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB...-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1342584136&sr=1-1

Both of these sets consist of 2 woofers and 2 tweeters.
No clue how these Polks sound but I also have a pair installed on my Neon's rear deck. They do sound nice.

 

One of the things I'm curious about -- the Infinity are 2ohm speakers vs the 4ohm speakers for the polk.

Polk are 35hz=23000khz vs 53hz-21000khz for the infinity, so technically, the Polk should be able to hit lower... right?

 

The factory speakers are actually 4ohm, and the 2 ohm infinity are not really 2 ohm, its all semantics and technical specs and its been discussed to some extent here on this forum. In reality both will work fine and they will probably have similar sound to most people. I would probably get the Polk based on past experience and personal preference. With that being said I went cheaper and I'm satisfied for the price I paid. Anything is an improvement from stock .

 

Hmm. I bought the polks and installed this weekend. Great improvement from stock.

One thing I notice is that everything seems too "bright", even more noticeable as volume increases. I've turned the treble down on the headunit and have the crossover set at -3db for the tweeter.

 

try reversing the polarity of both rear speakers...its only rear fill, and should be attenuated as a rule.

Then up front put the levels back to "flat", and reverse the tweeter polarity on the driver side only.

Then see how it sounds...you may still want to reduce the driver side to -3db.

But sometimes switching polarity of one tweeter helps with the brightness. I noticed that the polk had a plastic tweeter and that kind of scared me a little.

Usually infinity has the bright tweeter...but i see they have switched to a soft dome.

 

You should be able to contact amazon....they are usually awesome about returns. I just read a few reviews on sonicelectronix...and it seems the opinion is that they can sound bright with factory head unit, and should be amplified with external amp.

good luck!!

 

Hello, new poster here. Just found the forum last week, and I've been surfing the Elantra-related threads while waiting for my registration to clear. In particular, this thread just moved a sound system upgrade to the top of the list of things I want to do with my car. Well, except for paying it off early...

I've been wanting to give silvergls' Infinities a listen before ordering and installing them, but I've had a hard time finding a local (Kansas City metro) dealer who stocks Infinity. I've been looking at Alpine speakers (as several other HF members have done) as a possible alternative, along with Rockford-Fosgate's Prime series, which seem to have been designed from the start as a replacement for factory audio speakers:

Rockford Fosgate Prime R1652-S 6-3/4" component speaker system at Crutchfield.com

Any opinions on the Rockford-Fosgates? I've been out of car audio for years, so I'm not really sure what's available these days...and my local car audio dealers seem more interested in selling me an entirely new stereo system rather than letting me upgrade what I already have. The power handling seems adequate (40W RMS/80W peak) for the base Elantra sound system.

 

The only thing I owned from Fosgate is an amp. IMO, I would expect these speakers to work fine. The price is nice and free shipping so it's worth a shot. Plus I'd say, if it doesn't sound as good as the stockers it'll be a shame.

 

Hey everyone. New member and new owner of a 2013 Elantra (got it 4 days ago). I'll be brief:

1) Does anyone recommend dynamat installation? The road noise isn't bad, but if dynamat will make a big improvement then I'll give it a go. Is it worth it?

2) Is it necessary to get a new amp? I'm thinking of doing the "standard" upgrade that I'm seeing a lot here (Infinity Reference 6030cs and 6032cf) and would like to know if the stock amp is enough.

All these pics make me wish I could do this myself. Sadly, I'm about 97% sure I would break/destroy something. Also, I work in a manufacturing plant, so assembling is the last thing I want to do in my free time.

 

1) I've taken apart my doors and there does appear to be enough room to add in some sound proofing, whether that will make a noticeable difference -- idk.

2) I recently performed the "standard" upgrade as you call it. My average volume setting went from Vol18 city/Vol30 highway to about Vol12 city/Vol24 Highway. The improvement in efficiency is quite noticeable from stock.

I had ample bass reproduction after the install of the component speakers, enough to rattle the mirrors. I did however throw in a amplified 10" Infinity sub for fun, however I'd say it isn't really needed.


Very easy install. I feared the worst popping off the doors the first time too, but following the guide helped a lot. First door took 90min, 2nd 20min. I was very cautious the first time, but once you get it down the rest are a breeze.

 

One more question: Would the sound be "adequate" if I only upgraded the front four (with the Infinity 6030CS)? Obviously the rear passengers wouldn't get as good of sound, but how would the front sound? I know you did the rear first, so I don't know if you can gauge that one.

Sorry about all the posts. I'm as big a noob as it gets when it comes to car audio (hence why I'm having someone else do it). Haha

Quick edit: Final question (I think): I can't enter a 2013 Elantra into Crutchfield.com's "Outfit My Car" tool. Are the speakers the same as the 2012? If not, does anyone have a site or guide for what I can and cannot use? (It's probably in the manual actually).

 

2012 and 2013 are nearly identical. I had the same issue with crutchfield, thetollroads, and Amica Insurance

The rear factory speakers are terrible. Fading the balance to the front you almost can't tell they're off. I have turned off my back speakers to test just the front pair and vice versa -- It should be more than enough. If I had to choose which to do first It'd definitely be the front.

In my case the choice was made by UPS & OnTrac.. lol

 

Just to inject another opinion into the sub-woofer area:

When I bought my 2012 Elantra in February, I was going from a far more powerful, fun to drive car. I bought the Elantra primarily to save cash on gas during my daily 60 mile commute. But I had promised myself that if I was going to doom myself to driving a lack-luster powered car with a sissy-boy 1.8 liter four, then I was going to put everything in the interior that I wanted to, hopefully, make being in it tolerable.

As such, I decided to install the Compass Nav touch screen system, I upgraded my speakers to the Infinity's, and I added an Infinity Basslink II woofer. Before adding the woofer, I too (as many here have stated) was quite impressed at how much better the stock radio was with no amp, just the new speakers. I like the Basslink, but it is not needed. I wish I had just saved the money, but too late now.

I actually really enjoy this car a LOT! Wish it would do 0 - 60 in 5.9 seconds or better though.......

 

Got the infinity 6030cs and 6032cf installed.
Its alot better than factory speakers.
But I think i have problem. The sound is too crisp (too sharp?), like so much trebble. I have to put the trebble down to 0 on the setting.
Any idea? I want to set everything to center without haaving too much trebble.
Thank you.

 

I also have my tweeters with the 0 setting. I feel the location of the tweeters, which is good, probably the reason why. The increased setting would've been used if the location was otherwise. You might also want to readjust your radio settings. If you notice the Infinitys are more responsive especially in the mids and highs.

 

Thats what I did. I set the treble on the radio to 0. I dont know about the tweeter setting, had someone installed them for me.

 

I would take a look at the crossover settings. The components are located on the crossover and the coxials on the tweeter. My initial install I had set them all to 3db. Quickly I found the tweeters to be to agreesive. Some however might like this setting. Changed them all to 0 and it smoothed it out a lot.
Try popping the panels and see if this correction is necessary.

 

Found this when poking around...its some nice pictures of elantra door removal:

Hyundai Elantra Door Panel Removal & Speaker Replacement Guide - 2011, 2012 & 2013 Model Years - Picture Illustrated Automotive Maintenance DIY Instructions

 

Found this when poking around...its some nice pictures of elantra door removal:

Hyundai Elantra Door Panel Removal & Speaker Replacement Guide - 2011, 2012 & 2013 Model Years - Picture Illustrated Automotive Maintenance DIY Instructions

If you're looking for door panel removal for sound deadening installation, I made a post about this. Just have to search for it.

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/231-m...1-md-2011-elantra/142378-applying-sound-deadening-elantra-doors-trunk-pics.html

 

And if anyone is interested, here is a picture of the tweeter in the Elantra GT, looks to be a 1/2" fabric dome...with a 4.7uF mylar cap as a crossover. That puts the tweeter XO point at about 9k....meaning the woofer in the door must be just playing full range, and the tweeter is there for "effect".

I will replace this with a real tweeter and lower the XO point to something more reasonable, and see if it ads enough sparkle to prevent me from tearing apart the door.

I am curious if anyone has noticed any type of low pass inductor on the woofer in the door ? If not i am tempted to replace the door speaker with a high end, full range coax...instead of comp. I much prefer tweeters down in the doors if given the choice.

 

woops...forgot the picture.

 

Well, here we go: Just ordered the Infinities today from Amazon. Should have them in about a week. Didn't see anything else locally that would have been an improvement on them at the price, and even if I end up paying a local shop to install them I'll still save money in the end.

(Given that I'm not looking forward to doing the install myself in front of my apartment - in hundred-degree Midwestern heat, with the local tweakers taking notes so they can come back under cover of darkness and pull my new speakers right back out - I probably will pay a shop to install them. There's a couple of local car audio shops that tell me they can do the job for under $150.)

 

^
I got the set for 183$ 6030cs and 6032cf.
it was from hotronicsbuys i think

 

Thanks silvergls for this post and all who have added a wealth of detail. I have my Infinity's (6032cf and 6030cs) behind me ready for my install tomorrow.

Got 'em form Amazn (154.00 delivered)

I am going to start @ 7:00 am to avoid the heat (90's with high humidity here in East - heat index pushing 100) since I have to use my drive way - garage converted to storage room.

Will let every one know how I make out....thanks to all again.

I had Infinity's in my previous car for 10 years! Loved them.

This will be Phase 1 of multi-phase update. Next phase may be LC6i/AMP/SUB and then finally 4CH-AMP. But need to save my change up.....

D
2012 - Titanium Gray Metallic GLS with tint, window gaurds and mud guards. Odo - 1700

 

Let me preface this and say it was well worth the effort - sounds awesome.

OK now to it - started at 8:30AM and finished at 5:00PM.

The door panel removal was very easy actually (thanks to silvergls details), I used plastic coated pry tool from Harbor freight...4.99 for the set.

Had to drill out rivets (no torx) for all speaker housings and pilots for new screws since the rivet holes were too big to use.

Fought a short thunder storm.

Used both Flatland2D's old tweeter housing method and silvergls's strapping procedure to ensure tweeters stay put.

When all wired up I used my multimeter to verify polarity and found that I had the right side set reversed on both front an rear...black wire was not negative...go figure.

Basically did all four door's at once.

If I was going to do it again I would buy a new soldering gun.....since I easily wasted 2.5 hours with the dodgy one!

Used the mini 'Infinity' tweeter sticky that came with the 6030cs and placed them on under the tweeter grills..very nice touch to finish.

Thanks to all for the great input here or I would still be working on it...

D
2012 - Titanium Gray Metallic GLS with Infinity 6030cs - 6032cf, tint, window guards and mud guards. Odo - 1700+