LOL, I'm an idiot. I should check which forum I'm in before making purchases!!! I ordered the speakers based on what I read here. The only problem, I have the Sonata, and not the Elantra. Well atleast I ordered through Amazon. Shouldn't be an issue to cancel since I just ordered them 3 hours ago.

 

You should have no trouble getting this resolved with Amazon. Once I was unable to stop my order. They instructed me to return the unopened package and gave me a full refund.

 

thx, and yes I just got an email confirming the cancelled order, phew!

 

silvergls, i just recieved my speakers and amp. i have the GLS with no nav. how did you do your powered sub?
sorry if this was already listed here.

 

Bare in mind it's only a compact sub
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/231-md-2011-elantra/128277-compact-powered-subwoofer.html

 

was it easy to get the stereo out? i ordered from Crutchfield and they didnt have a master sheet for my car.

 

Look at this:

 

thanks for the link. sorry to keep bugging but is it ok to drill into the firewall like that?

 

My Subwoofer thread shows a location where no hole drilling is needed.

 

cool. thanks again everyone.

 

Hello everyone. I got the system installed and WOW!! what a big differance. the Bostons are so much clearer than those stock speakers. the jbl gt-basspro 12 powered sub made all the differance on the lows.
my question is i have noticed a lot of rattling from the trunk. besides dynomating is there something anyone has used to get rid of it?
thanks again

 

I'm on the same boat as you. I actually noticed the same problem when I installed mine regarding rattling. I went ahead and installed dynamat inside the trunk lid (by removing the carpeting), under my license plate and also all over the inside of the trunk (mostly the top). The problem I am having is that the plastic moulding that sits below the rear windshield is hitting the glass and causing the vibration.

Try turning on a song with good bass and pushing down on the plastic moulding below the rear windshield. You should instantly notice less vibration. The main culprit is right in the middle where the brake light is. I tried wedging a piece of foam between it and the window and in improved it slightly.

I wish there was a way to permanently have that moulding pushed down. Aside from screwing into it (which I'd rather not do) I think my options are limited...

 

thanks for the quick response. i wonder if you can take that off and put something underneath it. that is exactly were the noise is coming from.

 

ohh that sucks. what model # was on b/o?
let me know how you like those Hifonics.

 

robr6 both were on backorder 6.5 comps and regular 2way and they ended up cancelling the order. Ive read good things about the hifonics though and the price was right. I want the infinity this thread is about but I have not found any good deals for infinity all around. Ive had Frankenstein car audio in the past and just want the same speakers all around.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using AutoGuide.Com Free App

 

I got my Infinity's off ebay for $150 (front and rear). Installing this weekend.

 

wow!!! thats a smokin price! are the fronts the components?

 

Yes.

 

good shopping.

 

Woohoo! I finally got my new speakers installed! I went with the same 6030cs/6032cf combo that silvergls used. And big thanks to silvergls for this thread; it sure saved me a lot of time and frustration.

One nice benefit I wasn't expecting is that my bass is cleaner and tighter now than before. I have a Rockford Fosgate 150W sub in the trunk that was probably producing this nice bass all along, but the stock door speakers, which suck at bass, were muddying up the low frequencies. So now with a much higher quality pair of speakers in, my sub seems to really shine. Still want to go bigger with it someday, though.

It's late and I'm really tired after spending about six hours on the install (I'm very slow and stop to think about the best way to do something a lot) so I'll share my tips tomorrow. I found a way to reuse the stock tweeter brackets which I think better aims them and looks cleaner. I'll post pics later.

Maybe it's just me, but my system doesn't really seem louder with the new speakers. Granted I've only spent about 20 minutes listening in my driveway so far, so I'll have to do some road tests to better see how it compares. I've pretty much already decided to put an amp on the door speakers someday. They are only getting 20W right now from the external amplifier, but the new speakers are rated for 90W I think, so there's plenty of room to grow there.

Thanks again to silvergls and everyone who contributed to this thread!

 

Congrats on the install!
Post up those tweeter mounts when you have the chance.

 

Nice to hear Flatland!

Yeah, I'd really like to see your tweeter job.

 

So here's my experiences with replacing the speakers...

In my Limited, the speaker magnets were nearly the same size between the stock speakers and the 6030cs. The spacers were also tan colored instead of black but luckily still used torx screws.

Here's my crossover mounting location. I wanted to keep it on the door side instead of the plastic panel. I used silvergls's method of cutting off all the support posts on the spacers except for the one with the metal tabs on both the front and rear speakers. This let me use the same speaker connector, but there is no real benefit other than preference.

Reusing the stock tweeter mounts:

Below is the stock tweeter removed from the door.

The tweeter is held in place by three plastic tabs and some rubbery glue. Use a fine tipped screw driver or razor blade and cut the glue around the perimeter. Then use needle nose pliers to pull each tab back while pushing the tweeter up from the opposite side and work your way around. Be careful not to break off the tabs when doing this, although I accidentally broke one and it didn't seem to make a difference. It should pop out like this:

Then take the new Infinity tweeter and mash it into the bracket. I say "mash" because it's a really tight fit. Even though the tabs will not reach around the back of the tweeter to lock it in, it should be held in so snug that it won't come out without a lot of force. Make sure that it is pushed in evenly all the way around.

Doing this will better aim the tweeters, which I found hard to do with the pipe strap method. You can also make use of the wire retainer clip to keep the tension off the solder joints.

 

I see the Limited uses different speakers. Note the larger magnet and 5 post supports.

Thanks for the pics on the reuse of the tweeter brackets.
I pondered on doing so but opted not to only for reinstall at a later date, whenever that may be. I got my tweeters to aim with the straps but it did require more bends then one would think. My pic angle was different than the stock layout so it looks flat.

Kudos for more helpful ideas w/ supporting pics:thumbsup:

 

space behind speakers

What is behind the woofers in the front and back? Is the panel flat behind? Is there any space?

I want to install these sound deadening mats:
Amazon.com: Dynamat Dynaxorb Eliminates back-wave noise and distortion Available in speaker or subwoofer kits speaker kit, two 6" x 6" sheets: Electronics

R

 

I *think* there's nothing behind the front door speakers other than the sheet metal of the door. However, the window glass comes down through here so the effect would be lost when you have the windows down, but that's probably not a concern. I can't remember what it looked like behind the rear speakers.

 

good deal

I think my plan will work then and eliminate some of the vibration in to door panel ... thnx

 

Ugh, someone stole my credit card number and went on a shopping spree.
Needed to cancel it and now wait 10 days for a replacement.

10 extra days before I can order the remaining of my stuff needed for my install

 

Ugh, someone stole my credit card number and went on a shopping spree.
Needed to cancel it and now wait 10 days for a replacement.

10 extra days before I can order the remaining of my stuff needed for my install

That sucks! Once somebody purchased plane tickets with my account. Major headaches getting everything all back to normal. Not sure if you're aware of it but the Bank suggested I have another card with limited funds for online use.

I'm installing right now with laptop in garage so I can follow these great directions. First difference all of my speaker brackets are riveted so I just cut them out and I'm installing on the doors.

Also everything I pulled from my car is 4ohm front and rear so my speakers should be a perfect match. Pics to come later.

Korean made GLS born Jan 2011

Good luck! For those with rivets, I'd expect that to be the only cause for slowdown.

 

flatland2d. good job with the tweeter install.

 

I'm installing right now with laptop in garage so I can follow these great directions. First difference all of my speaker brackets are riveted so I just cut them out and I'm installing on the doors.

Also everything I pulled from my car is 4ohm front and rear so my speakers should be a perfect match. Pics to come later.

Korean made GLS born Jan 2011

 

Thanks to silvergls, Flatland2D and everybody else here for your helpful posts. I finished up my install a few hours ago of 6.5 Hifonics Zeus, comps (front), 3 way (rear) and they sound great even with no amp. Its a definite upgrade from the stock speakers and a much clearer crisper sound. For anybody with doubts that aftermarket speakers will sound better than factory with no amp they definitely do. I can also turn the volume up to max with no rattling or distortion. The stock speakers are barely more than construction paper and the tweeters are a joke. There are better speakers out there but I got everything for under $100 shipped and I think I got the most for my money. These speakers seem very well made and they have nice weight.

On to the install. I took my time and probably spent 3 hours total. All of my speakers were riveted in so rather than drilling out the rivets I removed the factory speakers with a utility knife and a set of snips. I had no interest in using the factory connectors so I just snipped and cut. The Hifonics were a great fit and my trusty 18V Dewalt made it easy to install on the doors. I probably spent an hour experimenting with various methods to mount the tweeters but I finally ended up using the stock brackets with longer screws similar to Flatland2D method. The hifonics crossovers are large but I was able to mount them using one of the existing bolt holes.

I ended up breaking one of the little plastic triangle trim pieces on the rear doors so my added advice is to be careful with those pieces.

Here they are in the box

Hifonics vs factory 6.5

Rear Door 3 Way

Front Door with crossover

Tweeter Mount