Just got done installing both the 6030cs and 6032cf. Took me about 6 hours total from start to finish. My stock speakers were riveted in, so I just cut them out in place. I struggled to find a way to cut the plastic behind the paper and ended up just breaking it with pliers. That worked pretty good, but I had to take care to not fling plastic pieces down into the abyss of the door. Other than that, everything went really smooth. Thanks for the great guide!

 

Just got done installing both the 6030cs and 6032cf. Took me about 6 hours total from start to finish. My stock speakers were riveted in, so I just cut them out in place. I struggled to find a way to cut the plastic behind the paper and ended up just breaking it with pliers. That worked pretty good, but I had to take care to not fling plastic pieces down into the abyss of the door. Other than that, everything went really smooth. Thanks for the great guide!

Deconstruction with pliers, another tip added. Nice it worked out!

 

If I decide to ever try this, I'm gonna be spending a weekend with one of you sound engineers. I don't care to get that involved. Took me 1/2 6-pack to put in my LED's. And that wasn't that long of a job. Fella's got to have adequate breaks from the added stress of OCD and his priorities straight, yes?

There's not enough beer in America for me to attempt this mod!

 

Really great thread guys. Tooooons of great information here. I'm contemplating going with the JL C2650 Components or the Infinity REF-6500CX Components for the front. JLs are a little more expensive, but I have heard really good things about JL.

I'm thinking it'll be this weekend or next before I get to install the speakers because I'm installing a new head unit / 4 channel amp / mono amp / and sub first. Wish me luck!!

 

Good Luck and please share when done.

 

So, I took the plunge today. Ironically, I did not go with either the Inifity REF or the JLs that I was looking at.

This is what I decided on based on reviews:

Infinity Kappa Component 60.11cs (Front)
Infinity Kappa 2-Way Coax 62.11i (Rear)

These retail on Crutchfield right now for 349.99 and 169.99 respectively. I ended up getting them for 188.00 and 109.00 shipped. It's a little more than I was wanting to spend, but for the price for I couldn't pass it up. Total savings of $223 of Crutchfield's prices.

These are both true 2ohm speakers so I will get the full 100watts per channel from my Alpine 4 channel. I can't listen to it that loud, but it's nice to know that I could if I wanted. Will post pics when they come in and I get them installed. I'm tackling the head unit, both amps and sub this weekend and then I'll get to the door speakers next weekend as they won't be delivered until like Tuesday of next week.

 

Alright guys... wish me luck!!! These puppies are going in tomorrow!!

 

Very nice scotty just take your time and the install will be fine.

 

Piece of cake!!! for the rears anyways

Took a total of about an hour and fifteen minutes to put the rears in. Following the guides this was a very straight forward install. I know there's tons of pics, but I'll post mine too!

BEFORE DESTRUCTION!

I had Torx screws (LUCKY) and you can also see the wires for the right rear... white and brown.

Speaker comparisons.

Speaker baffle after removing factory speaker.

And finally.... INSTALLED!

This last picture is something I wanted to make future installers aware of. When trying to replace the door panel on the second side, the factory speaker hole was actually pressing up against the screws I used to attach the speaker to the baffle. This was not allowing the door panel to snap back into place. I had to actually take a dremel to that stock speaker cutout and notch out openings for it to go around the screws. You can see the four notches I had to make. Not the cleanest cuts, but no one can see that anyways!

This problem at the end actually took 30 minutes of my hour and fifteen. I was planning to install the front components today also, but my two year old boy had other plans so I'll get to those either tomorrow after church or sometime after work this week.

The sound I'm getting from these rear speakers so far is absolutely incredible! This is my first go round with Kappas and so far, they do not disappoint.

I'll try to snap some photos of the component install when I get around to it.

 

You can see the four notches I had to make. Not the cleanest cuts, but no one can see that anyways!

I would know it's like that even if no one else did! :laughing: {I'm messing with ya... :wink2:} Nice job! Two down, two to go. :thumbsup:

 

Thanks for the headsup on notching the panels. Those Kappas appear to have more heft raising the height of the speaker ring. Bet they sound good, they look good, almost too good to hide behind the panels.

 

DONE!!!!!! All I can say is wow... these Kappas combined with the advanced sound settings of my head unit sound absolutely phenomenal. Again, follow the walk throughs guys! Straight forward following these guides. Thanks a TOIN silvergls!

This pic shows the setup. Tweeter not yet connected.

This next pic shows where I drilled the hole for the speaker wire to go into the mid range speaker.

Again, thanks to everyone for the info. Threads like these really make sites worthwhile!

 

I bet it sounds like a totally different car now right, I know when I hooked up my sub it totally drowned out the rest so I installed all new 6.5s as well. Was it ever amazing that made & I haven't even wired the amp up to the doors yet, I'm grabbing the little bar style Alpine amp to them then I'll be set for my audio. We install those little brick shaped amps alot especially in jeeps they do a great job best parts are it's easy to hide/mount somewhere & if your running off the factory deck as I am it's got high inputs as well as rca's makes it a handy amp sounds decent as well

 

I know exactly which amp you are talking about. I'm thinking about putting one of those in my wife's 2013 Altima. If you do it, let us know where you hide that little thing. Just a heads up, if you had thought of leVing it behind the radio, there's likely not enough room. Super tight fit back there!

 

Okay so this thread is Motivating me to get my behind into gear and get my E up to acoustic standard! Won't be as good as my Prev Car (2005 Corsa with Rockford P Amp, 12" Sub, and DLS SQ Splits and Coaxles running from an Alpine Head Unit - Hence I am slightly hard of hearing today...)

But looking at getting a decent 6.5" Split in the front and Decent Coaxle for the back. Maybe after Jan's Paycheck...

 

When I had my glovebox out, there seemed to have enough space to tuck a small amp back there.

 

Nice guide. I really hadn't planned on modding anything acoustically but you might have changed my mind! Especially that I could possibly do myself. The low end bass is slacking fairly badly in the stock E IMO . I'm not looking for anything massive.. But more then what they gave me!!B)

 

Great info in this thread - thanks for all the early adopters.

There are a few misconceptions I saw earlier that I thought should be at least addressed:

• From what I can tell, the base system speakers are 4-ohm. The Limited with Tech Package (NAV) uses an external OEM amp and 2-ohm speakers.
• Unless you are going to wire multiple speakers per channel in series or parallel - you can't run the speakers at 4-ohms now and 2-ohm when you add an amp. The head unit or amp will see whatever impedance the speakers you connect it it are rated at.
• Infinity "2-ohm" speakers are 2.7-ohm. They marketed them as 2-ohm b/c people thought 2-ohm subwoofers were louder - which is also a mistake, but most amps produce more power at lower impedance. Three ohms will not overstress most 4-ohm amps, so they pushed the limits a bit. (Alpine iDA-X001 w/ Infinity Kappas - Speakers - Car Audio, Video, & GPS - Crutchfield Forums - scroll down to impedance vs. frequency graph).
• The "true-4-ohm" with the spaker wire argument is false also - see http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/speakerwireselectorassistant.swf - to get 1.1-ohm of resistance in the speaker wire, I would have to run 8 feet of 28-gauge wire per speaker. (That is about like telephone line cord or computer HD signal wire - nobody would run that.)
• The comment on 88W ended up at 21W at the speaker was I think based on DC power and not AC power - using the above link again - with 88W RMS and 2.9-ohm speakers and 10 feet of 28-gauge wire, you are still sending 42W to the speakers. The wire is too small, but 22-gauge wire gets you up to 72W RMS, 18-gauge gets you up to 81W, 8-gauge as the poster recommended gets you to 87W RMS, but that is assuming 10-foot wire runs, and it is really overkill. Stock wiring is fine for this up to a 50-75W amp, beyond that, you might want to run your own 18-gauge wire, but that is really optional.

 

Audio Project

Hello Guys,
This is my first post in the forum, i would like to start by letting you guys know how good and helpful is this forum is, I have been looking for months for a space where I can find straight answers to my question and doubts.
Now... I am a very happy owner of an Elantra 2014, already added to it a very nice set of rims and now its time to give some juice to the stereo,which leads me to the main reason of my post, would like to ask for a second opinion from you guys, I have been reading this entire thread so i pretty much have an idea of what i desire to put in.
I'm from Panama, so some of the chosen parts will be a Latin variant model from USA (case of head unit), please have a look and let me know any recomendations (Wiring Cable Gauge, tips, etc).

Thank you guys in advance!

Head unit:
AV Receiver AVH-X8550BT Pioneer 7" MIXTRAX/AppMode/W16:9/Detachable face/DIVX&MP4/Dual USB 1 AMP/Bluetooth etc…

Speakers:
Component Speakers MB Quart PVM216 6.5" Component 75 RMS 150 4-Ohm 89dB 38-32000Hz 2900Hz 6/12dB 5.59"
Coaxial Speaker MB Quart PVM116 6.5" Coax 75 RMS 150 4-Ohm 89dB 38-32000Hz 2900Hz 6/12dB 5.59"

Amplifier:
Description Model Brand 2-Ohms 4-Ohms
5 Channel Amplifier OA1100.5 MB Quart 4 x 150 RMS + 1 x 500 RMS 4 x 75 RMS + 1 x 350 RMS

Subwoofer:
Description Model Brand Impendance RMS Power Range (Watts) Frecuency Response
12" Subwoofer TS-SW3001S4 Pioneer 4-Ohms 50-400 RMS 20 - 230 Hz

Dash Kit:
Ebay.com Item# 360802117523

Sorry I'm not able to post links just yet.

 

Subwoofer:
Description Model Brand Impendance RMS Power Range (Watts) Frecuency Response
12" Subwoofer TS-SW3001S4 Pioneer 4-Ohms 50-400 RMS 20 - 230 Hz

I would recommend going with the 2-ohm TS-SW3001S2 instead. This would let you get 500W RMS from the amp - which you could limit with the gain control to 400W RMS, rather than 350W RMS (which the amp might not make and is less than the sub is rated for.)

 

Looks to me like you've picked the right pieces to work with each other as far as power is concerned. Don't forget your three sets of RCA cables to run from the head unit to the amp. I would think a 4 gauge amp kit would be PLENTY for you and 8 might be sufficient. I went with 0 and just fishing through the firewall took me 3 hours!

Welcome to the forums too!

 

Adding another Welcome!

Looks like you got it going.

 

Those are awesome…. My sunglass holder broke due to the bass from my system…SMH!! Had to glue it shut!

 

Too funny!

Be also careful of the Brown Note
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&ved=0CFAQtwIwAQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DmQFL-NLh0O8&ei=kMYSU5efF9LaoATOqYHQAQ&usg=AFQjCNGcXJ1ntJf5eyvGDzDRP3cLXpg45Q&sig2=CbjUi2likLpLtwqT2nLrGA

 

Hahahaaha the back of my head hair stands up and my teeth tingle thats about all...

 

Wow million thanks guys, already ordered the speakers and the new dash, next week the amp and sub and the head unit by mids April, hopefully within 2 months will have everything installed and running, will post pics of the final result.
another thing, will the stock wiring be fine for the speakers? or should install new wires as well? also which gauge would you recommend?
Appreciate all your help!

 

New dash won't do anything for you until you get the new head unit.

http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/speakerwireselectorassistant.swf

Can't hurt to run new wiring - 18-gauge is fine for the mains, you want 12-gauge for the subs.

 

Hello Friend!
Certainly, the thing is... the Electronic shop i wanted to buy it from has all available units separated and new arrival is by end of March, i m willing to wait since they offer the best price (~100 from other shops!), as for the wires im going for 16 awg on speakers and 12 on subs is that okay?
Amazon: C&E 100 Feet 14AWG Enhanced Loud Oxygen-Free Copper Speaker Wire Cable

 

I called a big box electronic store and was told that Monster wire was 16awg, if memory serves me correctly. If that can handle a big wattage 7.1 home theater system, you should be fine on your car's speakers.

Somewhere in America, right now, there's a guy "thinking" of the advantages of using battery cable wiring. :wink2:

 

@Jaime Arturo - 18-guage is all you need for the mains. 14-gauge won't hurt anything, but won't gain you anything either.

@OkieRich, Monster is over-rated, and I think it comes in various gauges.

Really, for power wiring and to save money what you want is welding wire.

People misunderstand speaker wiring gauge, though (and power to some extent):
http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/speakerwireselectorassistant.swf

Assume 75W RMS, 5 feet of wire per speaker, 4-ohms speakers:

22-gauge still delivers 70W to the speakers. You won't HEAR any sound loss. It doesn't meet the heating specs and it is hard to crimp to, but it is acceptable.

18 is fine and delivers 73W to the speakers.

14 delivers 74W to the speakers, but you won't hear a difference between 73W and 74W RMS.

 

Hi Mr Tiger!
First lot just came in yesterday
I Went with 12 AWG for Subwoofer and 16 AWG for the mains (couldnt find 18 for that brand in particular)

as for the Subwoofer, decided to go with this one instead
MB Quart Reference RLP304 12-Inch Flat Woofer 600-Watt Maxx 300-Watt RMS
Amazon.com: MB Quart Reference RLP304 12-Inch Flat Woofer 600-Watt Maxx 300-Watt RMS: Car Electronics

The Amp + another set of RCA are on the way
Im so excited about it

Will keep you guys posted

 

You're probably spot on in that assessment. I always thought it was "overpriced!"

I used stranded 12 gauge offal wire from a former plant I retired from. It was bottom of the barrel leftover that was used to make HVAC wiring harnesses. Assorted colors, etc. And it wasn't overpriced. It was FREE! My kind of investment.

Hey, that's good stuff about the wire gauge, above. Kudos for that! :thumbsup:

 

I use that link and this one all the time:
http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/systemdesignassistant2.swf
but that whole site is great:
Basic Car Audio Electronics

It will take you years to read through it, though ... (I'm sure I haven't read all of it myself).