you must get the alternator/charging system checked out. its also quite likely, as you said that you are taking more out of the battery than you are putting back in, are you for instance driving with the heated rear screen/mirrors on all the time? (this puts a heavy drain on the battery)

 

I know in the past for me, the battery light would come on (in previous vehicles) whenever the alternator dropped below the charging voltage.

Is the battery completely, or near dead when you go to start it? You might be suffering from a slow ground leak, or an electronic system that is not shutting down. Ground leaks can be tough.

 

My wife was out in the car yesterday and she called me because it wouldn't start and just seemed dead. After a few tries it started and she got home, but I was a bit worried that such a new car would do this. It seems like the problem was loose battery terminals - I just checked the car and found that both battery terminals were completely loose, and could just be lifted off by hand, so I've tightened them and now they seem secure.

The terminals are a little different to any I've seen before (perhaps they're just modern , and I had to push them right down and tighen them very hard. I recently had some work done at a non-Hyundai dealer, so they obviously weren't familiar with the type of terminal used and just didn't tighten them fully.

-Mark.

 

Glad you found the problem.

While reading your post, I was thinking, "Loose Cables".

Two or 3, fifteen minute trips per week should keep your Santa Fe running just fine, as long as you start with a completely charged battery.

The short trips, however, are hard on the engine and exhaust system. You need a completely hot engine to get rid of all condensation that builds up in the engine and exhaust.

I'm sure that you have noticed that when you start your vehicle in the morning, you can see the exhaust vapor coming out of the tail pipes, but after the engine is fully warmed up, the vapors no longer show. Those vapors are actually moisture. Of course, in very extreme cold, the vapor shows all the time, just like the contrails of a jet liner at 50,000 feet or so where the temp is -30.

The UK has a lot of moisture so you know what I am talking about.

David <><

 

Unfortunately our problem remains and occurred again yesterday. This time the recovery guy diagnosed a faulty battery and persuaded my wife to have the battery replaced at a non-hyundai stockist.

I'm still not sure if this is actually the source of the problem given that we have had so many conflicting diagnoses, but I'm now also concerned that by fitting a non-Hyundai part we will have invalidated the warranty.

Not sure where the boundaries lie in terms of original parts or wear and tear replacements? The car is still under 3 years old but believe the battery warranty is only 2 years.

 

Dear Ah,

Is your battery still under warranty? The US battery warranty is for 0-12 months free replacement, 13-36 months pro-rated replacement ( you only get credit for unused months). Your Hyundai dealer should have performed a load test on the battery, not just a simple voltage measurement.

Yes, get your battery replaced at a non-Hyundai stockist if you have no warranty left on this battery. I went with a 850 Cold Cranking Amp battery for my Santa Fe after the battery failed. With 3 Hyundais currently owned in our family, every single Hyundai OEM battery failed in 40 months or less.

Byron

 

QUOTE (byronguidry3732 @ Jan 27 2009, 09:19 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=211514

Dear Ah,

Is your battery still under warranty? The US battery warranty is for 0-12 months free replacement, 13-36 months pro-rated replacement ( you only get credit for unused months). Your Hyundai dealer should have performed a load test on the battery, not just a simple voltage measurement.

Yes, get your battery replaced at a non-Hyundai stockist if you have no warranty left on this battery. I went with a 850 Cold Cranking Amp battery for my Santa Fe after the battery failed. With 3 Hyundais currently owned in our family, every single Hyundai OEM battery failed in 40 months or less.

Byron

Byron,

On my 2008 Chrysler, the battery warranty is 3 yrs, 36,000 miles which I verified while at the Chrysler dealership today. They replaced my battery for no charge.

Is the Hyundai battery warranty different?

Thanks,

David <><

 

With it being so cold, did you have the heated seats and defroster on? That along with the fan on relatively high and your headlights on, will really put a strain on the alternator and minimize the ammount of charge going to the battery with the short drives you do.

 

QUOTE (BWG68 @ Jan 28 2009, 11:16 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=211784

With it being so cold, did you have the heated seats and defroster on? That along with the fan on relatively high and your headlights on, will really put a strain on the alternator and minimize the ammount of charge going to the battery with the short drives you do.

Excellent point, BWG68.

He probably ends up with a negative charge by weeks end.

My advice to him is to buy a trickle charger. They are inexpensive and work extremely well. Mine is a 1.5 amp and larger ones are available. I use one for my tractor during the winter months. I keep it plugged in all the time. They work quite well for full sized batteries such as automobiles, also. There have been times when my Santa Fe was going to sit for a long time so I plugged this unit into it and it kept my battery freshly charged.

They are fitted with a microprocessor, so they only keep your battery up to full charge and shut off automatically. The household electrical draw is also very small.

David <><

 

Hi

We do have a trickle charger but the car is used every day and having to disconnect a charger is quite a hassle and shouldn't be necessary on a modern car (IMHO).

We don't use the heated seats except on a long journey to avoid adding extra load.

the car is booked in for next week to have a new alternator fitted but will get them to check if there is any drain when the engine and ignition is off. Hopefully with a new battery and alternator we should be ok.

Cheers

Ali

 

Here we go again, despite the new battery and alternator last winter, the car wouldn't start again this morning. It has been used regularly and we have tried to avoid using the heated seats to avoid unnecessary drain. It is very cold here (-6) at the moment - cold for the UK at least, but I would have thought a 3 year old car with a new battery should be OK.

I just don't know whether this car has an underlying problem somewhere other than the battery and alternator, or whether it is just our usage pattern that is the problem? The car was used for a couple of hours last weekend and for 2 separate 15 minute journeys yesterday, so I would have thought that should keep the charge topped up?

Any thoughts or suggestions welcome!

 

Seems it's a seasonal thing for you. Then again, it's right now when both the demands of the engine during starting are higher and the ability of the battery is lower - the usual winter combination.

Did the engine even try to turn over when you turned the key? What were the conditions during your last quick trips out? Large loads (e.g., seat heaters, headlights, etc.)

When they replaced the battery last year, how did they diagnose the problem (normal load testing?) and did they give you the test results to take home? If so, there are a couple of numbers we'd need to assure the replacement was legitimate. I'd certainly have your battery checked now - if for no other reason than that it should still be under some sort of pro-rated warranty. If you've killed a 2nd one, I'd start to wonder about what your regulator might be doing to them.


As one approach, let's assume just for a moment that the problem you have is some sort of parasitic loss - one that could be low enough such that you're not noticing it until the battery is under a stressed condition such as it is now.

Have you ANY accessories added that might by any chance be drawing power when the engine off? I'm constantly reminded that our vehicles are often very different, so while all three of my 12V courtesy/lighter outlets are shut down with the key off, I wouldn't bet that's the case elsewhere around the world. Anything plugged in? Have you any accessories added that were "hard wired" on the hot side of the ignition system? I've seen things as small as an FM modulator for an MP3 player take a battery down given the right conditions. There's the more obvious one - leaving a map light on. I've done it. You need to see to grab something out of the passenger seat after you've stopped the car but before you open the door, turn on the map light, rummage about, open the door, and forget the map light is on. A battery may well make it overnight under the best of conditions, but not under stressful ones.

 

Hi, thanks for reply.

Yes it is definitely only in cold weather, but then it isn't that cold and the car is still used regularly. It turned over slowly and then died. we haven't used the seat heaters but it has been snowy here so probably everything else was on. We had mixed views on the problem last year, the recovery service diagnosed a faulty battery one time, then faulty alternator the next, Hyundai dealer couldn't find any fault.

I've been thinking the same about parasitic loss, I'm sure at least once it has been interior lights as the kids tend to play with them, but we checked today and everything was off. This clearly isn't a known problem with the model so I am trying to think about anything unique to our car. Ours is a UK CDX+ spec which has a roof mounted DVD player but this is definitely off when the key is out of the ignition. It also has a dealer fitted satnav system from Trafficmaster, this might be the culprit as it is hardwired into the car but does seem to be active even when the ignition isn't. I guess that's worth getting the dealer to investigate further.

Cheers

 

QUOTE (ahmurray @ Jan 7 2010, 10:43 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=289062

Hi, thanks for reply.

Yes it is definitely only in cold weather, but then it isn't that cold and the car is still used regularly.

Being an international thread, I keep having to remember that your -6 doesn't hold a candle (or does it!?) to OUR -6 -- something we experienced here in Colorado just last night. And it'll be in the 50's on Sunday. Go figure.

QUOTE

... the recovery service diagnosed a faulty battery one time, then faulty alternator the next, Hyundai dealer couldn't find any fault.

As the regulator is built into the alternator, a bad "alternator" could certainly take out a battery by overcharging it. I can't remember if Hyundai picks that up as a fault code or not these days.

QUOTE

It also has a dealer fitted satnav system from Trafficmaster, this might be the culprit as it is hardwired into the car but does seem to be active even when the ignition isn't. I guess that's worth getting the dealer to investigate further.

Cheers

Don't know how difficult it would be for you to access your satnav (if in-dash, likely a real bugger), but I'd sure be curious to know what kind of current it pulls down when things are supposed to be "off". In cold weather with somewhat viscous oil, it's surprising how a small, simple device can take the battery down below a functional level that you'd not notice on a warm day where the engine kicks over on the first 1/2 revolution!

 

Regardless of whether you use your vehicle for 1 minute or 1 hour a day you shouldn't have to be using trickle chargers or changing batteries or alternators every year, thats just crazy. You obviously have some electrical problem there. It gets cold enough here Canada(down to -20 or more Celius) in winter, and on my Santa Fe or any other car I have never run into that problem. If you still have warranty get it to the dealer and tell them to fix it. I use a trickle charger on my seldom used snowmobile, but never on my vehicles....

 

Hi
Don't know how difficult it would be for you to access your satnav (if in-dash, likely a real bugger), but I'd sure be curious to know what kind of current it pulls down when things are supposed to be "off". In cold weather with somewhat viscous oil, it's surprising how a small, simple device can take the battery down below a functional level that you'd not notice on a warm day where the engine kicks over on the first 1/2 revolution!
[/quote]
The only power that should be live when the ignition is off is the alarm and the maintained supply for the radio to hold the security code and the programmed stations, your traffic master should be connected to the auxillary output on the ignition switch.nal
If you are technical and have the equipment switch off the ignition and remove the key, connect a multimeter switched to amps inline from the +ve terminal of the battery to the +ve cable then remove the +ve cable from the battery without disconnecting the multimeter, this method will keep power to radio and any other unit fitted that has a security code, should you break this connection then all units with a security code will need to have the code re-entered. If the reading is above 200 milliamps then you have a problem, if you think the traffic master is always live check the reading when it activates a warning. If not technical and don't have an electrician mate, go to a good auto electrician and have this done, then go to your dealer with the any identified problems
The UK HOCGB site has a very good administrator who has a wealth of technical knowledge for UK spec vehicles

 

You've got my drift there, dartman. As the nav was not part of the factory build, one wonders what side of the ignition they've used for the 'non-backup' portion of the 12v to the unit. As far as I can tell, that's the only "add-on" in this vehicle, so it rises higher on the suspect list as a result.

The aggravation of trying to do an in-line current test off the battery is something I'd leave to the dealer for exactly the reason you mention. It's what will most quickly identify a higher than expected current draw, though. Frankly, I don't like the whole business of the bad results from pulling power these days. Too much headache when a battery goes south and has to be replaced. Cheap for the manufacturers of audio gear, and a pain for the user. There ARE other solutions that aren't that much more difficult to employ.

 

Thanks, all, I think we may be homing in on the source of the problem.

Car is into the dealer tomorrow so hopefully they can do the current test, will let you know!

Thanks for all your ideas and help.

 

Here we go again, first bit of snow and the car won't start. Engine turned a bit but then slowed and died completely, same old problem. The car has been used regularly in the past few days on reasonable length trips (20-30 mins) so I don't think it's a question of not getting enough charge to replace the energy lost in starting the car. I've also tried to trickle charge it overnight but that isn't working either, for some reason even on fast or trickle charge nothing is going into the battery. The battery is only a year old so can't be dead already. Have the recovery people on their way, will see what they think but there is definitely something wrong with this car as we've had the same problem every winter for 5 years!!!!!
Any ideas welcome.

 

QUOTE (ahmurray @ Dec 3 2010, 02:51 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=376600

Here we go again, first bit of snow and the car won't start. Engine turned a bit but then slowed and died completely, same old problem. The car has been used regularly in the past few days on reasonable length trips (20-30 mins) so I don't think it's a question of not getting enough charge to replace the energy lost in starting the car. I've also tried to trickle charge it overnight but that isn't working either, for some reason even on fast or trickle charge nothing is going into the battery. The battery is only a year old so can't be dead already. Have the recovery people on their way, will see what they think but there is definitely something wrong with this car as we've had the same problem every winter for 5 years!!!!!
Any ideas welcome.

I know you might think this is crazy, but if it were my car, I'd replace the battery again. You could have gotten another bad battery. It costs around $70, and I'd go for the highest amperage unit you could get. Check out your alternator again too. Bad alternators can take out batteries. The battery in my 03 santa fe is eight years old now and still going strong, so I can see how frustrated you must be.

 

Hi
The recovery service came out and tested the battery again, found it was faulty. Fortunately it was still under warranty so they took it away and got a replacement. Also found I'd blown the fuse in my trickle charger which is why it wasn't working.
Hopefully the new battery will see us through this winter without any problems, I'll try and keep it topped up with the charger too.

 

Check the wiring between the alternator and the battery and specifically look and see if there is any sign of over heating on any joints on my Terracan with similar problems I have found a burnt heavy dity joint in the area of the air filter which takes power from alternator through a connector to the main loom. As I am out of warranty I am seeking to have this joiint and surrounding 110amp wiring repaired.

Regards Barnabasb90

 

Just a question like that, what oil viscosity are you using in the UK? Is your car a diesel or petrol engine? I ask these questions because most manufacturers specify much thicker viscosities in other parts of the world than they do in north america. i.e. 5W-20. 10W-40 might be OK most of the time but with a weak battery at -6C, it could make the difference between your engine barely turning and actually starting.

Otherwise, would be nice if you could monitor your voltage with a ScanGauge and see if your regulator is intermittent or faulty like the recall I have on mine. See this thread for more details.

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/t56916-2010-...-alternator.htm

Finally, I'm not an electrician but I was thought that the last thing you want in your car is aftermarket power accessories, alarm systems and remote starters installed by 16 year old drop outs. Recipe for trouble if you ask me.

 

Battery or Alternator problems check list.

With a volt meter check the battery voltage in the morning without the vehicle running. Voltage should be around 12 volt. Then check with vehicle running. Voltage should be 13.8 to 14.2 at the battery post.

If voltage at battery is lower than 13.8 check voltage at alternator. If this voltage is higher than at the battery it is a sign that you have dirty connections. (Note: The regulator sees voltage at the alternator and not at the battery and sets the control bases on alternator voltage.) Clean up the connections and retest.

Also check for voltage drop from battery post to battery clamp. (Set voltage scale to 2 volt for this test) Any voltage reading here is a sign that the terminal is dirty. Do both the positive and negative terminals. Clean terminals with baking soda and water first and then use a wire brush carefully to clean up internal of clamp and outside of post.


If you suspect a drain on you battery over night is the problem, a way to test it is to disconnect the negative terminal in the dark and watch for an arc at the connection point. It should be very small unless you have equipment installed aftermarket that is connected to the wrong side of the ignition switch.

Example of equipment installed after market that causes problems is a radio/Nav unit, 2 way radio, high output cellular transmitters (Bag Phones)

Hope this helps in tracking down your problems.

Glen

 

This is a simple LED voltmeter to check the battery and the alternator working or not.

Amazon.com: Mini LED Display Digital Car Voltmeter 12V/24V Vehicle Voltage Gauge: Car Electronics $5
DC 12V Digital LED Auto Car Truck System Voltmeter Gauge Electric Voltage Meter | eBay $3