1102 is a low ignition voltage,,, you had a weak/dead battery recently that been jump and carry on from there..

You not going to clear a SRS DTC with a plain old OBD-II scanner... need to actually access SRS system to clear DTC

 

Thank you for your reply, the technician used a snap on verus scanner, looked like an giant ipad on steroids. said it cost about 4k and assured me it would work. It could read the codes, but just couldn't reset them.
I did mention that in the technical documents that a HI SCAN PRO scanner is mentioned, but he said that his scanner is equal to the task

-x se7en x-

 

There shouldn't be any need to physically erase B1102. The SRS ECU should erase that code on it's own when the supply voltage returns to normal.

The first thing I'd suggest is you replace the SRS supply fuse...see photo below. If that doesn't fix it, the other thing I'd check is the SRS ECU ground which is under the floor console near the handbrake lever. Perhaps they had removed parts from that area while replacing the gear linkage and have left the ground disconnected. Worth a look before parting with money for a replacement ECU, I think.

Regards.
Scottie.

 

Thanks for the info @Scottie

I did check that fuse with a multimeter set to continuity check and it came back good, but I will replace it anyway. The pins looked slightly discoloured.

I'd check is the SRS ECU ground which is under the floor console near the handbrake lever.

When you say this, do you mean under the car, or underneath the center console where the SRSCM is located? (sorry bit of a senior moment)

I looked at the circuit diagram for the car and found where the entire circuit gets a ground from, but where in relation to the srscm location is that ground to be seen? I don't suppose you have a photo of that particular ground location :grin2:

-x se7en x-

 

do you mean under the car, or underneath the center console where the SRSCM is located?

Sorry, I was more recently working with VW. That's where floor console came from

Under the center console...photo below :

 

Most Hyundai here in USA will have yellow wrapped portion with lug affixed with 1 of the studs at corner of SRSCM.. Floor paint and paint on stud' threads hinder electron flow.

 

That's exactly what I need! thank you. I will report back with more info and some photographs later on in the week. Thanks again.

-x se7en x-

 

I'm going to be let loose on the car tomorrow morning, So i'm just chiming in just for safety advice as I have read that air bags can be accidentally deployed. I am not going near any airbags its only the srscm module and voltage going in to it that I'm interested in.

We have talked about the ground side of the circuit and I intend to check that first, but is there a quick way of also testing for voltage going from the battery, to the SRS module. Would running a probe across the srscm fuse and checking for a reading there would that rule out a bad harness wiring from the engine compartment?

Also, could I back probe for continuity from the srscm power input pin (connector side) to the fuse box? Would that tell me if there is high resistance or a breakage somewhere in the harness from the srscm to the fuse box?

Thanks guys

-x se7en x-

 

Power supply is on terminal 11 (blue wire) of the SRSCM connector, and the grounds (black wires) are on 12 & 23...connector pinout below.

The best way to check it is to back probe the supply and ground terminals of the connector with the CM plugged in and the ignition on. That way your measuring the voltage while the circuit is active. Insert your probes with the ignition off, then turn it on to take your measurements. Turn the ignition back off before removing the probes.

I wouldn't advise using the meter probes themselves to back probe the connector. It would be better to use something thinner like a sewing needle. I always carry a pack of 2" tailor's pins in my pocket when I'm working. They're great for back probing connectors or piercing the insulation on wires.

The airbag system is actually pretty safe to work on. As long as you don't shock the CM and keep your meter set to the DC Volts scale, you shouldn't need to worry. Just take your time when identifying the wires and remember the pinout diagram below is looking at the connector from the terminal side while your working from the wire side, so the location of the pins on the actual connector will be a mirror image of the diagram.

Good Luck!

 

Well I managed to get around to looking into this problem today and this it what happened.

First, I decided to check for a voltage reading across fuse (position 10) SRSCM while the cars's ignition was set to the ''ON'' position and I didn't get a reading at all. So I replaced the fuse and tried again, still nothing.

I check the circuit diagram and it says that the fuse 10 is ''HOT'' at ON or start so there should be voltage flowing through that fuse when the ignition is set to ON.

I then decided to check the ground (G20) and noticed a bit of corrosion around the nut.

I unscrewed the bolt cleaned it up with a wire brush, cleaned up the mating surface, and also the lug. I reconnected the negative battery lead and turned the ignition to ON, but still nothing changed. The airbag light would come on, go off, then come back on again

I tried to probe the SRSCM connector, but I just couldn't get in there to do anything, the drivers seat and the friggin carpet kept getting in the way, so out of frustration I had to call it a day.

I fear the only way to get to the SRSCM and have any chance of probing the connectors is to remove the driver seat to get access, trouble is I don't have access to air tools to undo the seat fasteners.

What would be the next best thing to do guys?

Sorry for the massive photo, Wasn't sure how to do thumbnails on here:grin2:

-x se7en x-

 

First, I decided to check for a voltage reading across fuse (position 10) SRSCM while the cars's ignition was set to the ''ON'' position and I didn't get a reading at all.

Can you clarify what you mean by across the fuse? If you connect the meter across the fuse you won't get much of a voltage reading since both probes are in effect connected together. You'd only get a reading if the fuse was blown.

I fear the only way to get to the SRSCM and have any chance of probing the connectors is to remove the driver seat

Or perhaps just unbolt the SRSCM. Just be careful not to drop it.

 

Actually when I think about, what I should have done was connect one probe to the fuse and the other to a body ground. Oh dear lol. :d

I'll give it one more crack then I'll admit defeat.

-x se7en x-

 

I've had another crack at this today and it's ended in another failure. I can't back probe the connectors as the plug have a sealed back (a bit like an old scart plug for tv's) so I can't get my pins in place to take a reading. I did correctly test for voltage to the SRScm fuse, and I got a good reading (11.74) Ish. So power is good from the battery. I gonna have to contact the sparky on Monday and see if he can help. But I have a feeling he is just gonna say it needs a new SRS harness.

Thanks for all your help.

Best regards David

 

Forgot to add photos I took.

 

Remove the yellow tape and cut the little cable tie if there is one.
Next, press in the little locking tab shown on photo 1 (just below the yellow tape) and the actual connector with the wires attached will slide out of the connector shell.
You then need to carefully orientate the connector (use the connector shell to help here) and align it with the pins on the ECU then insert it without the shell so you have access to the wires for back probing....welcome to my world

 

Ahhhhhhh, the blind can now see :nerd:
I wondered what those push in tabs where for, sneaky hyundai!
Out of interest, does the connector open up like a scart plug, with an angled hinge on the side?

Right I will have another crack later in the week, and see if i can get anything.

Thanks for this Autospark your help has been invaluable. :grin2:

One more thing, in the srscm diag (A1CS-EG42A GETZ CHASSIS RT) is says there are two connectors (1wire?) and (3wire?) are those referring to the actual srs connectors like I showed in my previous post or are there more before the main module connectors.

-x se7en x-

 

No that isn't the SRSCM connector. The connector designation, MI01, tells us it's a connection between the Main wiring loom and the Airbag loom. I don't have the wiring diagram to hand so can't tell you where that connector is. If you have the section of the electrical manual that shows the component locations, it will show you in there where that connection is.

 

I have found the connector, its by the ETACM unit, but the photo is quite poor and I cant make head nor tail of it. is it under the dash (access by removal), or underneath the dash where the steering column is.

-x se7en x-

 

It looks like the dash would need to come out to get at that one
It looks like the photo has been taken looking in through the windscreen, hence the glare. So it's showing what's under the top of the dashboard.

 

**** it. oh well I will have to go with the original option of probing the connector at the SRScm. I'll give it a blast on Sunday.

One more question, if I probe the blue wire on the SRScm connector and place the other lead of my meter on one of the fuse tabs, if I set my meter to continuity I should get a beep right? That would rule out a break in the wire. I could also do a resistance reading. My meter usually has about 0.04 internal resistance so if I get a reading over 0.08 would that indicate a poor connection?

Thanks again
-x se7en x-

 

if I probe the blue wire on the SRScm connector and place the other lead of my meter on one of the fuse tabs, if I set my meter to continuity I should get a beep right?

Yeah probably but if you connected your meter like that and set it to volts you'd be measuring the voltage drop on the supply circuit, which would be a better test because there's a known pass/fail criteria. Generally, voltage drop shouldn't exceed 0.5V. If you get a reading much above that, that indicates a high resistance somewhere in the power supply to the SRSCM.

I could also do a resistance reading. My meter usually has about 0.04 internal resistance so if I get a reading over 0.08 would that indicate a poor connection?

No, I don't like resistance measurements. The best way to measure resistance in the circuit is the voltage drop test above.

Often a faulty circuit will show low resistance when tested with a meter yet fail the voltage drop test. The voltage that drops across a resistance is proportional to the current flowing in the circuit and very little current flows in a circuit when an Ohmmeter is applied to it.

Also, you need to be very careful using Ohmmeters around airbags. The voltage that comes out the probes of an Ohmmeter can deploy an airbag if you touch the wrong terminal :surprise:

 

Ok, so from what you have said and what I have learnt so far my test should be this:

Take a voltage reading at the fuse & body ground, and write it down.

Back probe the blue wire while with the other lead connect it to the fuse tab.

If the voltage is lower than the first measurement there is a problem between the fuse wiring and the SRScm connector?

And All this needs to be done with the car in the on position, and I need to make sure I don't short any pins on the SRScm connector. And don't use resistance mode.

Phew

-x se7en x-

 

Ok, so from what you have said and what I have learnt so far my test should be this:

Take a voltage reading at the fuse & body ground, and write it down.

Back probe the blue wire while with the other lead connect it to the fuse tab.

If the voltage is lower than the first measurement there is a problem between the fuse wiring and the SRScm connector?

No, that's not right.
Taking a voltage measurement between the fuse & ground should give you 12V...easy enough.
Taking a measurement between the blue at the SRSCM and the fuse should result in zero volts (in an ideal world). In the real world all wire has some resistance and whenever current flows through a resistance there will be a difference in potential (a voltage) across the resistance. In a good working circuit that potential difference shouldn't exceed 0.5V, so that is the voltage you want to see in that test (<0.5V).

Honestly, this electrical stuff is easy. I just make it sound complicated :smile:

And All this needs to be done with the car in the on position, and I need to make sure I don't short any pins on the SRScm connector. And don't use resistance mode....Phew

I know. And the mechanics that have to pull gearboxes and stuff out of cars everyday think us sparks get it easy. They don't know the half of it.

 

Back from the dead!

I have spoke to a sparky today, and he is a 100% convinced that the module is faulty. He said there would be power going to the module and I was barking up the wrong tree, he explained that back when I had the guy with the scanner check the car, the module was reporting a b1102 code (low power) so there must be power going too the module for it to report back that code, else it just wouldn't do anything and the scanner would not be able to communicate with the module at all. So that rules out the wiring harness.

He said that the module had probably been flashed, damaged by the low power or some other act of god. He was also very reluctant to do any work on Hyundai's as he said working on the electric's is like opening a case of worms.

Looks like I'm gonna have to look for a replacement module after all.

 

Problem solved!! I bought a second hand ecu from a breakers yard. I made sure the part numbers matched and spent this afternoon fitting it. After that I turned the key.... And the light comes on.... Then off.... Then stays off :d SUCCESS!

I'd just like to thank Auto spark for all your insight into this matter. I don't know if the other ecu can be repaired, but I am happy that this problem has been bought to a satisfactory conclusion.

-x se7en x-

 

Thanks for taking the time to come back and update us. I'm happy to hear you got it fixed.

Scottie.

 

I don't suppose you know how to open the ECU by chance? I have looked for screws but cant find any. Is it machined shut? I wanted to have a poke around and a look inside.

-x se7en x-

 

I've never had to open a Getz one before so I've no idea how you get the board out. I did find a photo of the circuit board online though. Nothing really of any interest inside to be honest :