[Jason_R28]

Anyone try a subsonic filter on the 8" sub?? Did it make a difference? I was thinking about a 30-35hz highpass filter depending on the roll off slope.

Haven't gotten around to tuning yet. Spent the past two days wiring everything and running new speaker wires throughout the car.

But **** does it sound loads better than the stock garbage.

Would let you know what crossover points I use.


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[PeteNYC]

I also have the oem sub assembly on order.

Hoping to fit either the Skar Audio VD-8 D4 or the Kicker CompRT CWRT82 (43CWRT82) depending on how much mounting depth I have with the oem enclosure.

Will be using the NVX MVPA1l for bass and the NVX MVPA4 for my Alpine SPR-60C in the front doors and Alpine SPR-60 in the rear doors.

Also, I'm currently using the AudioControl EQS to process the signal from the factory head unit.

Hello Jason,

It is so ironic because I am about to install the same exact Alpine speakers as you did in my 2017 Tucson Limited. How does it sound? I am taking them out of my old Corolla and they sounded great in there. I will also be adding the Alpine head unit power pack, bridged to those Alpine components, while using the stock head unit power to feed the center channel and rear door speakers. How do you think this would sound up front? Figured bridging the Alpine power pack to the front stage will be best for those Alpine components as they can easily take the 90RMS of power.

Also, I purchased a JL 8" W3 sub to put into the factory sub enclosure that will be run off of a JL 250/1. Funny also because I almost got the same Kicker sub as you did, but chose the JL W3 from experience. Lol.

Please let me know what you think of this setup and more importantly, how you like how your system sounds with the way you described on how you was going to do your install.

THANKS!
Pete

 

[PeteNYC]

Haven't gotten around to tuning yet. Spent the past two days wiring everything and running new speaker wires throughout the car.

But **** does it sound loads better than the stock garbage.

Would let you know what crossover points I use.


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Jason, I just saw your updated post. I bought the JL 8W1v3-4. Going to install it in the next day or so. Doesn't seem to fit exactly in the slotted speaker area in the enclosure. Should I make a 3/4" spacer to have it fit or just return my sub and get the Kicker you got instead? Or would that 3/4" spacer causer the panel to not fit properly back into place since the speaker would cause the speaker to come to far out from the enclosure? I see yours fits perfectly after a bit of grinding as you said.

JL Audio 8W1v3-4 8" 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield.com

One more thing to all you guys, how did you get the right panel off completely where the sub is? I can't get that last screw out that is holding the panel in place that is located under the seat? The seat is bolted down good and one bolt is also very difficult to remove so that I can get the panel off. Someone said here that the seat "lifts right up", but my seat is really bolted down not letting me get that last screw out to get the panel fully off so I can work on this free and easy.

Thanks! Your help is SO greatly appreciated guys!
Pete

 

[PeteNYC]

I only did the left side panel for all my video stuff, but i'm assuming the right side is the same.

1. The rear seat just pulls right up, it's really just gravity and a few light clips holding it in. There are some bolts/screws holding in the panel under the seat.
2. Then, remove the center trunk trim panel, that's the furthest rear panel, where the latch for the hatch is. It's all just clips. 3. Then there are a few bolts/screws holding the the right panel in place in the spare tire well area.
4. The rest are just blue clips. You may need to order some extra clips, i broke a few so be gentle.

Hello gggplaya,

How did you get the right panel off completely where the sub is? I can't get that last screw out that is holding the panel in place that is located under the seat? The seat is bolted down good and one bolt is also very difficult to remove so that I can get the panel off. Someone said here that the seat "lifts right up", but my seat is really bolted down not letting me get that last screw out to get the panel fully off so I can work on this free and easy.

Thanks! Your help is SO greatly appreciated guys!
Pete

 

[gggplaya]

The rear seat cushion is just clipped in. Just lift up and it should lift out. The frame of the seat has bolts you have to remove.

That JL W3 says it can work down to a 0.3cuft box which is good, but it's over 4" deep because of that huge magnet. Depth clearance might be an issue. You can try a spacer, there is some space between the woofer and the side panel, but not much. I love JL speakers, but i was afraid that one wouldn't fit. Otherwise i would have went JL.

 

[Jason_R28]

Jason, I just saw your updated post. I bought the JL 8W1v3-4. Going to install it in the next day or so. Doesn't seem to fit exactly in the slotted speaker area in the enclosure. Should I make a 3/4" spacer to have it fit or just return my sub and get the Kicker you got instead? Or would that 3/4" spacer causer the panel to not fit properly back into place since the speaker would cause the speaker to come to far out from the enclosure? I see yours fits perfectly after a bit of grinding as you said.

JL Audio 8W1v3-4 8" 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield.com

One more thing to all you guys, how did you get the right panel off completely where the sub is? I can't get that last screw out that is holding the panel in place that is located under the seat? The seat is bolted down good and one bolt is also very difficult to remove so that I can get the panel off. Someone said here that the seat "lifts right up", but my seat is really bolted down not letting me get that last screw out to get the panel fully off so I can work on this free and easy.

Thanks! Your help is SO greatly appreciated guys!
Pete

Initially I thought getting a 1/2" spacer would've solved my problem with the CompRT not being able to fit but there's really not much space behind the panel itself once the sub enclosure is installed. Also there's a very noticeable rattle with the CompRT against the plastic so I definitely want to grind down the lip on the OEM speaker grill as well as sound deaden the entire plastic panel as well as the area behind the sub itself.

The CompRT is definitely a pretty good speaker and has a respectable output for an 8" in such a tiny sealed enclosure and I'm saying this coming from having two 10" Alpine Type Rs in a massive ported enclosure in my previous 2011 Tucson.

As for the door speakers, the Alpine Type R components and coaxials sound absolutely amazing. I have my front doors(component) crossed at 100Hz and the rear doors crossed at 75Hz for a pretty decent rear mid range fill. I'm feeding them around 75W RMS each so 90W RMS is definitely a plus with the power pack but you should definitely look into replacing the rear doors as well if you're looking at similar crossover points to mine however I don't think you'll be able to control that with the power pack.



As of right now, I haven't gotten around to investing a significant amount of time into tuning just the auto normalizing the Rockford 3sixty.3 does on it's own to flatten out signal coming from the head unit and I've also set the gains on my amplifiers and truthfully I can say that the system sounds absolutely amazing. I'm completely blown away with the sound quality of the system now even with using the OEM head unit. The only thing I have to solve is the minute plastic rattle in the back and for me the system will be everything I wanted to achieve with the upgrade, amazing sound quality with moderate power. The bass definitely kicks throughout the car.

 

[Jason_R28]

Anyone try a subsonic filter on the 8" sub?? Did it make a difference? I was thinking about a 30-35hz highpass filter depending on the roll off slope.

I ended up using a 100Hz high pass filter on the front doors and a 75Hz high pass filter on the rear doors.

As for the sub, I used a band pass filter with 30Hz high pass and 80Hz low pass.

So far this is the most pleasing without compromising mid bass as well as the doors not rattling at higher volumes.

 

[PeteNYC]

The rear seat cushion is just clipped in. Just lift up and it should lift out. The frame of the seat has bolts you have to remove.

That JL W3 says it can work down to a 0.3cuft box which is good, but it's over 4" deep because of that huge magnet. Depth clearance might be an issue. You can try a spacer, there is some space between the woofer and the side panel, but not much. I love JL speakers, but i was afraid that one wouldn't fit. Otherwise i would have went JL.

WOW! I didn't realize that the actual seat cushion lifts separately from the frame of the entire seat. When I read your earlier reply that the "seat" should fit right up, I thought it was the wHOLE thing as one unit. Now I understand. That just made me SO happy so I can get that whole panel out. I was like a complete dope i my car today taking the old sub out whilst holding the panel open on one end. What a bitch that was. This will be great to work on now. Lol.

As far as the choice of sub goes, I am torn between the JL W1 and JL W3. The W3 matches the JL JX250/1 amp perfectly in wattage, but the W1 may not be powerful enough to take the 175RMS (4-ohm) from the JL JX250/1. Don't want to under feed the sub as 150RMS that the W1 takes may not only short the sub on power, but not be enough bass for my taste. I think I have to find a way to get that W3 in there. I am glad to hear you said there is a bit of space between the sub and the panel which would allow me to make a spacer which not only would help with the deeper mounting depth of the W3, but also will prevent me from having to use my grinder to shave off some meat from the W3 to fit in as you guys did. The overall outside diameter on the W1, W3 and your kicker are ALL about 8.5", so whatever you guys did to make it fit - I would have to do to. The spacer should solve two problems.

Thanks so much for your quickly reply buddy, ANY advice you have it so greatly appreciated. It really helps me man.

Pete

 

[PeteNYC]

Initially I thought getting a 1/2" spacer would've solved my problem with the CompRT not being able to fit but there's really not much space behind the panel itself once the sub enclosure is installed. Also there's a very noticeable rattle with the CompRT against the plastic so I definitely want to grind down the lip on the OEM speaker grill as well as sound deaden the entire plastic panel as well as the area behind the sub itself.

The CompRT is definitely a pretty good speaker and has a respectable output for an 8" in such a tiny sealed enclosure and I'm saying this coming from having two 10" Alpine Type Rs in a massive ported enclosure in my previous 2011 Tucson.

As for the door speakers, the Alpine Type R components and coaxials sound absolutely amazing. I have my front doors(component) crossed at 100Hz and the rear doors crossed at 75Hz for a pretty decent rear mid range fill. I'm feeding them around 75W RMS each so 90W RMS is definitely a plus with the power pack but you should definitely look into replacing the rear doors as well if you're looking at similar crossover points to mine however I don't think you'll be able to control that with the power pack.



As of right now, I haven't gotten around to investing a significant amount of time into tuning just the auto normalizing the Rockford 3sixty.3 does on it's own to flatten out signal coming from the head unit and I've also set the gains on my amplifiers and truthfully I can say that the system sounds absolutely amazing. I'm completely blown away with the sound quality of the system now even with using the OEM head unit. The only thing I have to solve is the minute plastic rattle in the back and for me the system will be everything I wanted to achieve with the upgrade, amazing sound quality with moderate power. The bass definitely kicks throughout the car.

I love it! Congrats bro on your system being what you want to hear! We all know how addicted car audio can be, and how we never stop until we find what we're looking for, so its great to hear you have found it. The rattle should be easily taken car of once you shave off a bit of meat on the sub side of the OEM grill cover, that and some Dynamite or whatever on the inside of the panel back there. I will definitely take your advice there and do the same.

I think I will take a shot at the 8" JLW3 and go from there. The extra wattage I have available from the JL JX250/1 would be best used as I am used to 200RMS form my previous mini-system. Bass only goes up - never down from system to system. Lol. If the W3 doesn't fit or is just too tight, I will put the W1 in there and call it a day, but really worried the 150 RMS max on it (@ 4ohms) might make me go back to the drawing board again in a month or two, so trying to avoid that, hence the W3 going in first.

And those Alpine components you have are EXACTLY the ones I have in a Corolla right now that are being taken out this week into my new 2017 Tucson. I have that Alpine power pack on it and it sounds amazing to me for the money. Once I bridge it as I said, should be better. Then the head unit will feed the new Alpine coaxials in the back (just bought the coaxials because the Corolla had 6"X9"s and the Tucson has the 6.5"s instead).

Do you think if we were to replace our stock head unit with something new in the future it would have a significant difference in sound? I was planning on keeping the head unit, but adding a high end processor once I upgrade sometime later this year to Focal 3-ways and Morel Ultimo's.

Thanks so much man, you and gggplaya really made this so much easier for me. Really, thanks!
Pete

 

[gggplaya]

WOW! I didn't realize that the actual seat cushion lifts separately from the frame of the entire seat. When I read your earlier reply that the "seat" should fit right up, I thought it was the wHOLE thing as one unit. Now I understand. That just made me SO happy so I can get that whole panel out. I was like a complete dope i my car today taking the old sub out whilst holding the panel open on one end. What a bitch that was. This will be great to work on now. Lol.

As far as the choice of sub goes, I am torn between the JL W1 and JL W3. The W3 matches the JL JX250/1 amp perfectly in wattage, but the W1 may not be powerful enough to take the 175RMS (4-ohm) from the JL JX250/1. Don't want to under feed the sub as 150RMS that the W1 takes may not only short the sub on power, but not be enough bass for my taste. I think I have to find a way to get that W3 in there. I am glad to hear you said there is a bit of space between the sub and the panel which would allow me to make a spacer which not only would help with the deeper mounting depth of the W3, but also will prevent me from having to use my grinder to shave off some meat from the W3 to fit in as you guys did. The overall outside diameter on the W1, W3 and your kicker are ALL about 8.5", so whatever you guys did to make it fit - I would have to do to. The spacer should solve two problems.

Thanks so much for your quickly reply buddy, ANY advice you have it so greatly appreciated. It really helps me man.

Pete

Your amplifer should always be higher in power than your subwoofer, you then set the gain to match your head unit and sub power.

My amp is 500watts rms and i have it tuned down to provide 300watts rms when i set my max unclipped volume on my head unit.

Example: Right now i have a 2ohm impedance and a 300watts rms max subwoofer. So i need to set my gain of my amp to 24.5 volts peak to peak to achieve 300 watts rms. To calcualte that you take the SquareRoot(WattsRMS*Impedance). Then you can set your multimeter to AC voltage and read that number on your speaker output.

Here's a youtube video demonstration:

The hardest part is figuring out where your head unit RCA output starts to clip. I use an oscilloscope, but if you don't have access to one, you can simply just turn the volume up to the highest setting that you would listen to it. Then set your gain on your amp to the output voltage in the above example.

 

[gggplaya]

I forgot to mention that some amps like rockford fosgate amps have clipping indicator LED's. If you do alot of car stereo installs for friends or whatever, you can buy a cheap USB oscilloscope on amazon for about $60.
https://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-Po...th/dp/B00FYGEFYM/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1482165838&sr=8-8&keywords=oscilloscope

 

[PeteNYC]

Very useful info, thanks again buddy!

 

[Jason_R28]

I love it! Congrats bro on your system being what you want to hear! We all know how addicted car audio can be, and how we never stop until we find what we're looking for, so its great to hear you have found it. The rattle should be easily taken car of once you shave off a bit of meat on the sub side of the OEM grill cover, that and some Dynamite or whatever on the inside of the panel back there. I will definitely take your advice there and do the same.



I think I will take a shot at the 8" JLW3 and go from there. The extra wattage I have available from the JL JX250/1 would be best used as I am used to 200RMS form my previous mini-system. Bass only goes up - never down from system to system. Lol. If the W3 doesn't fit or is just too tight, I will put the W1 in there and call it a day, but really worried the 150 RMS max on it (@ 4ohms) might make me go back to the drawing board again in a month or two, so trying to avoid that, hence the W3 going in first.



And those Alpine components you have are EXACTLY the ones I have in a Corolla right now that are being taken out this week into my new 2017 Tucson. I have that Alpine power pack on it and it sounds amazing to me for the money. Once I bridge it as I said, should be better. Then the head unit will feed the new Alpine coaxials in the back (just bought the coaxials because the Corolla had 6"X9"s and the Tucson has the 6.5"s instead).



Do you think if we were to replace our stock head unit with something new in the future it would have a significant difference in sound? I was planning on keeping the head unit, but adding a high end processor once I upgrade sometime later this year to Focal 3-ways and Morel Ultimo's.



Thanks so much man, you and gggplaya really made this so much easier for me. Really, thanks!

Pete

Not really unless you go optical. At the moment my system is as best as I can get in terms of processing without going to optical route i.e. Changing the OEM head unit and thankfully the 3sixty.3 has an optical input as well if I ever decide to go that route in the future.

The Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.3 is amazing for accurate control of how your system performs and the factory integration is amazing because at the moment I have a single 9 wire run from my head unit going feeding into 4 input channels of the 3sixty.3 and one accessory turn on and I have absolutely no floor or engine noise.


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[jsrd]

Hi from Mexico.

Great thread. In Mexico, Tucson is not offered with premium sound, so I decided to update it, and I bought the original subwoofer and central speaker, and bought a PDX-V9 Alpine amplifier (Still to come), and I replaced the speakers of the 4 doors for Focal Auditor165S & 165C . What do you think about my project? Should I consider a sound processor? What do you think about Hertz H8 DSP, would it be a good investment?

Saludos.

 

[gggplaya]

Depends on what kind of sound you want, DSP makes alot of sense for factory head unit integration.

But i'm pretty happy with the sound of my pioneer the way it is using the built in equilizer. The only thing lacking was bass, and the kicker CompVR solved that.

 

[jsrd]

Thanks for your comment gggplaya. I have followed this thread very carefully, and once I have the subwoofer, I'll replace the oem speaker with the Kicker Compact, as some friends have shared. At this point, I'm not clear about using a dsp, maybe it would test first with the amp, evaluate sound, and then make the decision. . .

 

[PeteNYC]

So I completed my install of my 8" JLW3 and it sounds great! Used a 3/4" custom spacer to avoid grinding the sub flange and at the same time allowing for more mounting depth space. Kills two birds with one stone. Was able to do this since the panel had plenty of clearance from the sub. Still have about and inch left of space. Added some polyfill and tuned the JL JX 250/1 amp and it sounds SO much better on the low end! It's a perfect balance to the stock system now. This will get me by until the spring when. I go nuts with a big system, Focal 3-ways up front with sore tire well fiberglass enclosure with dual 10" Morel Ultimate Titaniums off of two Arc Audio amps and a JBL MS-8 to tune it all out.

Thanks again for the help guys! Just posted the pics to let you know the W3 does fit after all! And pretty easily at that!

Pete

 

[jsrd]

Question, who installed the OEM subwoofer, have purchased the grille cover for rear right panel? If the answer is no, how have solved this point?

 

[Jason_R28]

So I completed my install of my 8" JLW3 and it sounds great! Used a 3/4" custom spacer to avoid grinding the sub flange and at the same time allowing for more mounting depth space. Kills two birds with one stone. Was able to do this since the panel had plenty of clearance from the sub. Still have about and inch left of space. Added some polyfill and tuned the JL JX 250/1 amp and it sounds SO much better on the low end! It's a perfect balance to the stock system now. This will get me by until the spring when. I go nuts with a big system, Focal 3-ways up front with sore tire well fiberglass enclosure with dual 10" Morel Ultimate Titaniums off of two Arc Audio amps and a JBL MS-8 to tune it all out.

Thanks again for the help guys! Just posted the pics to let you know the W3 does fit after all! And pretty easily at that!

Pete

The JBL MS-8 is rubbish buddy.


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[Jason_R28]

Question, who installed the OEM subwoofer, have purchased the grille cover for rear right panel? If the answer is no, how have solved this point?

Yeah, I purchased it together with my sub enclosure.


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