It's mostly methanol....good for removing any residual amounts of water from your fuel system. Can't speak to whether or not it helps gasoline flow better at low temps......

 

Red bottle HEET is isopropyl (99%)

Yellow bottle HEET is methanol

 

I can tell you it was 7F here yesterday, and my SF had no issues, and started right away. But it was probably borderline cold before having fuel issues. Coolant is supposed to be good for -34, but it was far from being that cold, so no worries about that issue. I also worry a little bit about the tranny, but hope it holds up .

 

The gas you are buying is already 10% ethanol. So 10 gallons has a gallon. How big is that bottle?

 

Gas line antifreeze...in the pre 80s. No more, never had problem here in winter. Additives are added by fuel supplier to adjust for season change.

 

As above, Canadian winters here. Never added anything to gas - as long as you fill from main brands. A smaller gas station in a small village may be a different story

 

Winter time, I only purchase and use non-Ethanol fuel for my gas engine vehicles (basically from Nov to Mar). It was -21 yesterday AM, inside garage it was -11, Tucson started immediately with no problem. Also, only use Top-Tier Fuel. Snowblower started immediately with the non-E fuel. I stopped using ethanol fuel in winter years ago for all small engines. Will admit, this is my first gasoline vehicle in many years. But I add nothing to the fuel except a small amount of seafoam for the small engines like mower, blower, trimmer, portable generator.

 

Winter time is when you would want to use E10 to keep the water out.

 

It does not KEEP the water out Saying keeping the water out implies water cannot get into the fuel due to ethanol being mixed in the fuel. To say it takes the water out of the fuel would be more correct.

Ethanol is hygroscopic it absorbs water (does not reach out an take water just absorbs it); gasoline is hydrophobic it repels water. If there is moisture in the air, the ethanol will absorb it to allow it to vaporize and burn with the E10 mixture. If no ethanol water will remain separate from the fuel and will not be burned.

Generally less water gets into the modern closed fuel system unlike many years ago when it was not closed. And depending on the humidity levels of where you live is a big factor. Being in the mountains here, humidity tends to be very low at almost all time. No moisture in the air to condensate inside the fuel tank.

And I have fuel cans that have two year old non-ethanol fuel in that have no water in the fuel. One reason why almost all small engine manufactures highly recommend to use non-ethanol fuel for their engines. And that I have proven from experience with small engines and fuel cans with two year old fuel with just a small shot of sea foam to keep stabalized over the years.

This ethanol problem of absorbing water is terrible for fuel stored in a non-closed system, even in a state with generally low humidity. When I first moved here in 2014, I had terrible time with winter starting of generators, blowers, etc. and the local small engine power sports company told me to use the non-ethanol fuel and since then, have NEVER had a problem and never had to drain a carb between seasons and the small engines start up perfectly.

All my friends out here including the few neighbors in this area all use the same non-ethanol fuel in their small engines and their gasoline engine vehicles in the winter. Thus the reason I went to it.
This is a debate many have, but so far, with many mornings well below zero, I have had NO problem staring with non-ethanol fuel in the tank. And it almost instantly starts. Admittedly, this is my first gasoline powered vehicle in many years; having had and still have diesel powered PU trucks.

Also, With the presence of ethanol, the volatility (vapor pressure) of gasoline increases. The increased volatility means it takes more energy for ethanol to vaporize. Cold temperatures make this harder. So the colder the weather, the more time and energy it takes for ethanol to vaporize.

There is a decrease in fuel mileage with non-ethanol fuel, I will accept that. However, from experience of those I know, non-ethanol is the best for me in this Tucson; especially, where I live.

It's a debate that can go on forever, with those loving E10-E15 saying it is better than the non-ethanol fuel, but where I live, until proven different, I will go with the non-ethanol in the winter, E10 in the summer months and to be direct, I sure as **** trust the knowledge of people I know who have been using non-ethanol for years in their vehicles to info received by complete strangers on the internet.

And yes I know what the ingredients of HEET as well as other advertised dry gas additives are. And when I was a kid growing up in MI we did use Heet or other brands to take the water out of the fuel in our open fuel systems in our carbureted engines in the winter. Also used starter fluid a lot too. But MI is a humid state.

 

as said above." i too never added anything to gas before when i drove a gas vehicle. unless you live in the great white North where temps drop -45 & colder with those extreme temps Yes you would need to add some form of gas line ant-freeze to keep fuel from freezing over on gas but in my area of southern ontario we dont see those extreme temps there is no need to add nothing to gas or diesel engines.

 

Diesel fuel is more prone to turning into gel at low temperatures as opposed to gasoline......

 

Kerosene should help remedy I think, Jet-A serve similar purpose

 

Ethanol will keep the fuel from freezing too. If you have so much water in your gas than when using E10 and get fuel line freeing you have much bigger problems. E10 gas keeps the water out.

As far as diesel in the winter most either add an additive that prevents jelling and removes moisture or use the more expensive #1 diesel fuel which is more jell resistant.

As long as the system stays sealed how is water going to get in?

 

As long as the system stays sealed how is water going to get in?

In the gas coming from the pump.
It can find its way into the gas station underground tanks.

 

In most states, you don't have a choice, and fuel is going to be E10, and year round, like in TX. Probably just in states with no city with mandated use of ethanol, due to emissions.

 

Illinois has been 99% E10 since the 80s. When it first came out it was a problem as older fuel systems as they got cleaned out and the old station tanks that leaked got replaced. Same with the 20% blend biodiesel. It really cleans out an older system and the filters will need changed frequently for a while.

 

2 way for stuff to get into car fuel tank.

1 - water leak into station storage tank if not well kept, get pick up and dispensed at pump, rare any more
2 - condensation in car fuel tank, they is open vent to atmosphere through vapor canister, though pellet bed as buffer

Yrs ago at Toyota, had car from another tech that would run like crap, then remedy after driven (dead of winter). Some dumb reason I look in fuel tank after I drove it back to work,, there was a hunk if ice that froze with wind chill across fuel tank while driving, thaw out when customer park in garage and be liquid again

 

2 way for stuff to get into car fuel tank.

1 - water leak into station storage tank if not well kept, get pick up and dispensed at pump, rare any more
Fuel system PU tubes are usually about six inches above the bottom of the tank. When I was in college, working at a gas station in MI, I used to dip the tank every morning with a long stick with a water sensing past on the end that would turn color if water was present. If above a certain level, a company came out to pump. The higher PU tube kept water from being pumped into cars. One reason why they used to say never get gas if they are dropping a load of fuel from a tanker since it will mix the water and fuel together.
But in those days, we had steel tanks and water rusted them out from outside as well as inside the biggest way the water got into the tank was through a rust hole allowing ground water to enter and fuel seeped into the ground.In the 70s EPA required all tanks converted to fiberglass. Not sure if they still dip tanks for water, not sure if water is still a big problem..

2 - condensation in car fuel tank, they is open vent to atmosphere through vapor canister, though pellet bed as buffer Aren't modern fuel system on cars considered closed to the older systems that were vented directly to atmosphere with no carbon canister in the system. I remember changing out a fuel tank on a 66 Cuda and it was a basic design, Fill tube, to tank, fuel line from tank to mechanical fuel pump in engine with fuel flowing through an inline filter. And cap just vented the pressure to atmosphere.

Yrs ago at Toyota, had car from another tech that would run like crap, then remedy after driven (dead of winter). Some dumb reason I look in fuel tank after I drove it back to work,, there was a hunk if ice that froze with wind chill across fuel tank while driving, thaw out when customer park in garage and be liquid again

 

-- Race gas? Racing fuel? Not sure of the terminology. There are some places out here that sell super high octane racing fuel.
Through the yrs I have used Sunoco CAM-2 gas, Union 76, current been Turbo Blue 106 octane, and station phasing out Turbo Blue for VP 110 octane (easier for them to buy). Just easily available stuff for me, I get current fuel off exit along my daily drive.
I do not buy the 5-gallon steel can, buy from pump is cheaper by a lot

-- I have heard non-ethanol fuel called REC fuel for recreational vehicles like UTV/ATV, etc. I'm talking about pure gasoline with no ethanol.
People call it REC or RV fuel, but it is straight gasoline with no ethanol, use in car and small engines that operator don't wish to use ethanol blend in,, best for 2-strokes, I prefer race gas for 2-stroke and AMSOIL synthetic mixing oil

-- For a list of NON-ethanol fuel for your state:
PURE-Gas Org
That site not always current, hard to update that site as an outside user

-- Not sure where you live if any is available but out here in Idaho, it is as available as a Big Mac. Yes a buck or two more than E10 but when compared to the price of diesel fuel...
There be REC fuel and race gas around me, main distributor is 30 minute maybe from me in next county, and the station I buy race gas at has REC pump beside it
There is REC fuel close to parents, so I dont have to haul full containers from home here to parents place for dad rider

 

SUNOCO have not seen one of those stations in years. For me, the PURE site has been great near where I live but like noted this Tucson is the first gasoline powered vehicle for many years, but used a lot of fuel for a large lawntractor and a large snowblower and use a little for a small generator. Been driving diesel trucks since moving to Idaho eight years ago. I get my fuel 15 miles away, but the nearest service stations are all basically 15 miles away. I usually say civilization starts 15 miles away from my house. If on a trip, I would have no problem in the winter of using E10 since it would be totally burned through the system while on the trip.

Nice thing is I can use non-ethanol fuel others can use E-whatever they want that is available and we can all agree to disagree. I will continue to use non-ethanol fuel in all my gasoline engine devices all year long except for the Tucson, when it will be used in the winter unless I get weird and take it actually on a trip in the Tucson.

 

I live in Colorado, used to live at 5000 feet, now 9200. I have never had a problem with gas/water or ethanol. Buy TOP Tier from a major brand station, not the discount fuel joints.
HEET won't hurt anything so why not use it if it makes you feel good.

 

E10 takes the place of HEET. So, as long as you fill up at a quality busy fuel station, you don't need any more alcohol. Your EPA fuel already has 10% alcohol in it.

If for some reason you use ethanol free fuel, and worry about condensate freezing, then add the HEET. Ethanol free can be labelled as 'recreation', small engine, marine.... fuel. It is not toptier no matter where its sold. So, add some quality stabilizer to it. Stabil 360, along with its competitors, is a good start with non-ethanol fuels, whether stored or used regularly.

No race gas around here. Tried to source some for the small engines but all were about $20 a gallon, and not feasible. I also wouldn't bother with a station sourced race fuel since the turnover, of higher priced fuels, is super slow, and nothing good about old fuel waiting for a buyer. Even 'premium' in most areas is a slow seller. Smart gas stations will 'turn off their regular pumps', put out the 'out of regular' fuel in order to move their old premium, often enough to prevent the premium from becoming a problem.