Go somewhere else. 300$ is abusive. Will they spend 3-4 hours doing these inspections ??? And the manual recommends the first coolant change at 120,000 miles (192 000 km) or 120 months, then every 30,000 miles (48 000 km) or 24 months. Skip that.

 

120 months is 10 years, are you sure?

 

Rotate your own tires, if you're so inclined. I've done it years ago. But we have a tire company here that does it for free as a customer service to the community. Buy a Hyundai filter and change the oil yourself. Look at your power steering, brake, and antifreeze levels. You're done! Take some of the money saved and buy something nice for yourself.

 

Look at your power steering, brake, and antifreeze levels. You're done!

You sure about this one, boss?

 

The biggest concern in Montreal, with its slushy winters and road salt, is rust. Rear disc brakes in particular are prone to seizing, causing premature $500 rear brake job. Dealer will clean & lubricate for $140 (usually extra cost on top of the $300), although a moderately handy person can do it while swapping snow tires for next to nothing.

Having worked in the car business I don't know anyone who ever saved money by paying $300 for routine maintenance. But I also don't know too many people who saved money by not maintaining their cars. The gods have a way of finding you either way.

 

The 30K service is an oil change and rotation and a whole lot of "looking around" which is what they are supposed to do during any oil change anyway. Think about it, when is a dealership NOT trying to upsell something,??? Believe me, they are always looking to find a problem to sell a repair on. It's usually a 60 dollar cabin filter though.

I got the same notice and tossed it in the trash. Follow the maintenance schedule in your manual and you are good to go.

 

"If it feels good, do it." It's your money, your peace of mind. On some items, I have the same tendencies. What the heck, right?

 

Keep in mind that only the FIRST change is recommended at 10 years... If you do it after 1 year then you are stuck with a regular change schedule afterwards.

 

What kind of warped logic is that exactly ???
Just for the record, it is NOT true.

 

I just call dealer and he said that because of winter in Canada and low temp. it is consider like driving in severe conditions and I should change coolant every 2 years but I have a little trouble buying that. I guess that dealer is a little bit over protective with all this schedule maintenance. I think I'll wait for at least 4 years with coolant and stick to regular oil change and brakes cleaning only.

 

I went to change my oil at 44k, they told me to do some maintenance like 6 point inspection i think, changed filters here and there, and fluid the brakes...I declined as I did a big maintenence not too long ago >:C

What do???? Im not a very car handy person either

 

So then why the second coolant that you put at 120 K not last as long as the one you put at 30 K ?

 

I'm not a "coolant expert," but I think it would have more to do with component breakdown, eg thermostat, radiator core, heater core, hoses, stuff like that. If I'm way off course I know there's smarter people than me to guide me down the correct path.

 

That 120k interval scares me since the factory warranty on those parts is only 5x60. A coolant exchange is a cheap simple procedure requiring mininal tools. I think I would rather be safe than sorry and do mine at 4 years or 50K. I researched this a while back and plan to use Zerex Asian vehicle coolant.

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I think I would rather be safe than sorry and do mine at 4 years or 50K.
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4 years seams reasonable to me Looks like dealer is trying to rip me off including coolant change in service #4.

 

Zerex Asian? Gonna have to make a note of that. Heading to research it now...thanks for the 4-1-1, Andrew.

 

I'm having difficulty wrapping my head around antifreeze with a 150,000 mile service life. Read that, last night. 150k? Really? I'm sorry but I'll spend the bucks, go with a smaller service interval and a larger peace of mind!

Andrew: Zerex Asian comes highly recommended. But only 50/50 mix at this time. Full concentrate is not available in that brand. I've only used concentrated in the past and mixed it myself with "store-bought" distilled H2O. So, I'll have to adjust to this 50/50 concept.

 

I hate to bring back a sort of dead thread, but my E is coming up on this 30,000 mile recommended miantainence and the salesperson at the Hyundia dealer mentioned it my last oil change. I know that not doing it won't mess with my warranty, Im just afraid if I don't do it something will happen and ill get in a fight with Hyunida cause of all the horror stories I see online. Can anyone offer advice, is it worth it for the peace of mind? I know they just inspect a ton of stuff and its basically a glorified oil change, but any insight/advice would be great, just not sure if i want to spend 400$+ in a few months for this. Thanks!

 

Nothing has changed except maybe price, $400 for inspections???

https://www.hyundaiusa.com/maintenance-schedule/


Replace Air Cleaner Filter
Replace Climate Control Air Filter (for evaporator and blower unit)
Replace Engine Oil and Filter
Tire Rotation
Add Fuel Additive (recommended only if TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline is not available. See owner's manual for details.)

All the rest are inspections. If you can do it yourself save some money. Don't let them talk you into anything you don't need.

Inspect Air Conditioning Refrigerant
Inspect Battery Condition
Inspect Brake Fluid
Inspect Brake Hoses and Lines
Inspect Clutch Fluid
Inspect Driveshafts and Boots
Inspect Exhaust Pipe and Muffler
Inspect Front Brake Disc/Pads, Calipers
Inspect Fuel Filter
Inspect Fuel Lines, Fuel Hoses, and Connections
Inspect Fuel Tank Air Filter
Inspect Parking Brake
Inspect Rear Brake Disc/Pads
Inspect Rear Brake Drums/Linings
Inspect Vapor Hose and Fuel Filler Cap

I wonder if they really do these inspections:

Inspect Fuel Filter
Inspect Fuel Lines, Fuel Hoses, and Connections
Inspect Fuel Tank Air Filter

I didn't know there was a Fuel Tank Air Filter ???

 

yeah Im not sure what I'm going to do, do not really have the time or capabilities to inspect everything, I bought the car like like 5 months ago and 6k miles ago, as a certified Pre-owned, I find it hard to believe anything has really changed, I've down a few trips around 1000k miles round trip and my commute to work is 7 miles each way. Im hesitant to spend the money for the glorified oil change, but I've heard horror stories/bad things like people turn dealer servies down and they head down the road a couple miles and something end ups wrong with their car.

 

I guess I should give my dealer some credit. I was just in for a new steering wheel and they did a multi-point inspection, replaced the steering wheel and didn't charge me any $, or try to sell me anything.

 

Maybe your certified pre-owned check can qualify as maintenance for what ever warranty you have???

If you don't have a warranty to protect then I agree wait till you put 15k mileage on the car for a major inspection. In that time you may want to find a mechanic you trust as he may be cheaper than the dealer.

 

I wrapped the CPO warranty so its bumper to bumper for 100k miles or 10 years, whatever is first, routine maintainence is not covered by the warranty.

 

CPO peaked my interest. You may want to read this:

Certified Pre-Owned Cars: A Reality Check

If you have the original warranty transferred to you and the dealer won't give credit for the CPO inspection I would complain and have the car inspected.

Compare Certified Pre-Owned Vehicle Programs

 

Guys,

I know I'm coming late to this....however, reading this quote, I understand something completely different:

For the 1st 120K miles, the coolant should be changed every 30K or 2 years. The idea that you can go 120K or 10 years without coolant change is absurd! Your timing belt, water pump, etc. will be due before then, and THAT requires a full change. Your hoses are not rated for 120K!

 

Please tell me about gas tank filter most garages have never heard off it.thanks