Please fill in your profile with your general location and the car you drive. Turbo or 2.4L?Dealer serviced with their bulk oil? What oil and whats your oil change interval?If it is turbocharged and you drive it hard,you will probably use some oil no matter which oil brand you use. Be proactive and change brands of oil to see if consumption stops and/or slows down.Your engine is still new and should not be using the amount of oil you are stating.Use of top tier oils will mitigate sludge,varnish,and carbon build up which is important with respect to "ring seal". Once ring seal starts to degrade with continued use of low grade oils,expect oil consumption.Add to that,fuel dilution which is now considered normal in GDI engines,a long term owner will be turned off from the brand as consumption and other issues arise.

 

My 2011 was burning oil as well but it had 170,000 miles on it. If I recall, it started much later than the 20,000 miles you mentioned. I kinda figured my oil consumption was due to me excessive and often heavy footed starts and many, many "punch it" episodes to dart through traffic.



Wife's 2013 had no oil issues, had about 30,000 miles on it and the entire 5 years we had it, the oil stayed the same amount after each oil change. No oil consumption at all.


My son's 2011 had a leak in the oil pan gasket, so hard to say if his was burning oil or not. His had 134,000 miles before it was totaled.


Check to make sure there are no leaks. Do you drive hard? I know that had a bearing on my oil consumption. Check your plugs to see if they are fouled with oil (if so, engine oil may be getting sucked past the rings and into the combustion chamber). Noticed any gray/white smoke out the tailpipe on aggressive starts?


Hope you find the culprit. I had to get rid of my 2011, before a trip I had to add half a quart, mid trip a quart, and on return a quart. I knew something was up but I had already decided on the 2018 upgrade.

 

From many oil burning complaints I have seen the factory (all makes) usually says "normal" no matter the usage. You'll need to be aggressive with Hyundai on what normal is.

I don't think any modern engine should use any oil between changes. Non of my other vehicles 1992 Montero (195K miles), Ford Ranger (100K miles) and 1995 Camry (almost 300K miles) use any oil between changes at about 5K miles.

I'm still trying to figure out what the oil usage is on my Sonata - which doesn't get many miles.

You'll need the check the oil often and log the dip stick level and miles. The 2017 owner's manual says - "check oil when engine hot, turn off engine and wait 5 minutes then check oil level. Proper level is at the "F" marker."

Make sure you check the level the same way every time. You may need to visit the dealer so they can log the usage.

 

Look over this thread by "bobsingh " he has a LF was using oil and he got the dealer to do a oil use log, I believe he had to return to dealer every 1000 miles and they checked it, he got a new long block.

Log a formal complaint, I dont think 1/2 qt between changes is enough but at least it is on the books. Also the drive train is 100,000 miles / 10 yr if you are original owner. There are a couple threads here where the owners changed from conventional oil to synthetic and the oil consumption was reduced or went away.

im driving a 2017 2.0T sport, have 55,000 miles on it now in 18 months , I drive it hard, paddle shifting, RPMs while accelerating 3500-5000. I use Mobil 1 OCI 5000 miles with OEM filter and it does not use any noticeable amount of oil between changes (stick is on full at change and at 5000 miles within a 1/8 " or less

https://www.hyundai-forums.com/lf-2015-sonata-i45/638327-knocking-sound-while-accelerating-2.html

 

Thanks for all the replies so far. My Sonata is a 2017, Sport model with the standard 2.4L engine. It has been serviced since new at the same dealership, with oil changes between 3000 and 4000 miles each time using 5W-20 oil that is specified on the oil cap. I have no idea if they use bulk oil or what brand they use. I generally trust that they used whatever Hyundai recommends in their vehicles. I occasionally use this vehicle as an Uber car but as you can tell by my mileage, it's not that often....15,000 miles per year. I don't drive it hard, except for the occasional hard acceleration needed to merge or pass. I use the Eco mode 100 percent of the time.

On my last visit for an oil change (27,659 miles), the service department was recommending a 30K GDI Induction service at an estimated cost of $827.00 Is this something I should do? Seems kind of pricey for a car with only 30,000 miles on the odometer. Could this possibly help or solve my oil consumption problem?


I really like this car a lot. I get more compliments on it than any other car I've ever owned. I keep it spotless and would like to keep it for many years to come but I am absolutely ready to trade it in if this issue cannot be resolved. Excessive oil consumption is a total deal breaker in my book.

 

On my last visit for an oil change (27,659 miles), the service department was recommending a 30K GDI Induction service at an estimated cost of $827.00 Is this something I should do? Seems kind of pricey for a car with only 30,000 miles on the odometer. Could this possibly help or solve my oil consumption problem?

Could you give us the details of what this service entails. It may be just an intake solvent to clean intake ports and valve, plus maybe combustion cylinder.

It is pricey. Can you do any self maintenance?

 

As far as I can tell, the GDI Induction service is pretty much what you describe; a service to clean the intake valves. Sounds more like a wallet vacuum to me. Here's a short YouTube video that describes it. ** I couldn't post the link because I'm a new user here. Google GDI Induction service. It's less than 3 minutes lomg **

The dealership told me it would take 4.5 hours to complete this service at a cost of approximately $827.00. I am not a DIY'er when it comes to vehicle maintenance so taking that route is out of the question.

 

As far as I can tell, the GDI Induction service is pretty much what you describe; a service to clean the intake valves. Sounds more like a wallet vacuum to me. Here's a short YouTube video that describes it. ** I couldn't post the link because I'm a new user here. Google GDI Induction service. It's less than 3 minutes lomg **

The dealership told me it would take 4.5 hours to complete this service at a cost of approximately $827.00. I am not a DIY'er when it comes to vehicle maintenance so taking that route is out of the question.

it is pricey but its at a dealer, i own an automotive repair facility, sometimes we do and induction service like most are talking about and they are correct doesn't take long, but a lot of the time we remove the intake manifold to gain access to the valve, you won't believe how much buildup they can accumulate, also be sure and use a top tier gasoline. you can go to toptiergas.com for explanation and stations that are top tier.

 

a 30K GDI Induction service at an estimated cost of $827.00 [/B]Is this something I should do? Seems kind of pricey for a car with only 30,000 miles on the odometer. Could this possibly help or solve my oil consumption problem?

Absolute ridiculous price.That service should be around $150.00. The service they do when they run the chemical into the fuel rail is more more the injectors than an intake cleaning.

The service you want for induction cleaning is seen in the below video.Last December,I contacted the dealer in that video and was quoted a price of $130.00 Canadian dollars.

A few years ago,one of our members found a local shop in Long Island,NY I believe who performed that very service. He reported his car ran like night and day.His car was bought used ,however,so past history was a factor.On a new car like yours,it may help,but,it will not solve thirsty oil consumption which I strongly believe points to your oil. Ditch the 5W20, the engine is also designed to run on a 30W. If you do not address it early,it will get worse over time.

 

Regarding which oil the owner's manual will list the weight that is appropriate for your climate. Having an oil burner for 13 years (1 quart per 800 miles) checking the oil every fill up was priority #1. Paying attention to trends and limiting variables may be helpful. So if you start using synthetic oil stick with it for a while. Sometimes switching to synthetic oil may increase consumption before it gets better.

 

Oil consumption is normal, but not by the amounts and at the intervals reported. Your (Thread starter) case may be consumption by burning and that points to defect, wear or poor condition.

No reported leaks.

I doubt it could be worn valve guides, seals, or stems, so oil could be burning. Oil burns in the combustion chamber. Only two other ways I can think of for oil to get there: pass stuck piston rings or through the crankcase ventilation system.

 

Same here on what im thinking. on a 2017 it shouldn't use that much Oil sometimes what happens when driving to conservatevely or short trips the rings get cocked up & stuck in there grooves. i think the cure is changing to synthetic oil & filter and with the engine fully warmed up plenty of wide open throttle should help heat up and rattle those rings around to break them loose if not. add a can of BG EPR let idle in the driveway 15 minutes change oil and add BG MOA to neutralize any left over residue and further clean and protect the internals.

 

M3499...No reported leaks.

I doubt it could be worn valve guides, seals, or stems, so oil could be burning. Oil burns in the combustion chamber. Only two other ways I can think of for oil to get there: pass stuck piston rings or through the crankcase ventilation system.[/QUOTE]

I agree with you on guides,seals,and stems.Unless defective,they should be fine. In addition to blow by,the dealer supplied oil cannot handle the heat. Sump temperatures of around 200 (we do not know temps of the OP)are balmy in comparison to combustion chamber temperatures. There is where lower grade oils do not make the cut and become volatile.If the oil starts to vaporize,you consume oil. It is a viscious cycle where ,over time,varnish and deposits form leaving owners scratching their heads wondering where their oil went when no external leaks are evident.Now throw in fuel dilution.That 5W20 is not a 5W20 anymore and opens the door to a host of other issues.

Here we have the OP who likes his car,takes care of it ,yet,is turned off by the brand due to what he is experiencing.Many share his sentiment and it does not have to be that way.The masses,simply are not educated on whats going on within the automobile/oil industries.Do not get mad at Hyundai,this is true for all GDI engines across the board for all manufactures if you use bulk or low grade oils in them.

M3499,this is not directed at you,it was just pertinent to your post....:smile:

 

Switch to 5w30 synthetic oil.

Check oil level the same way every time.... on a level surface, hot engine/oil, 5 minutes after shutdown..... Check weekly and keep oil level to the full point.

Stick with the severe service interval....3750 miles for oil/filter change

Keep driving. Oil consumption is normal for modern engines.

 

Link to article that presents some examples of auto makers design errors and is very easy to comprehend. Doesn't seem to touch much on syn vs mineral oil except in the case of turbos and mentions carbon buildup on piston rings - where the oil experiences the higher temps.
Funny they mention Saab - I owned one where I had to replace the timing chain and use auto rx to clean the engine of excessive deposits - prior to Saab recommending use of Mobil 1 0w-40.

But in the case of turbo or gdi engines - I say maybe blame the oil if you are not using synthetic - or blame the maker for not recommending it.

www.autoserviceworld.com/carsmagazine/dont-blame-the-oil/

 

Switch to 5W30 full synthetic. I promise you won't regret it.

 

That could explain why I never had the issue. My dealer uses 5W-30 Mobil 1 for their full synthetic service.

 

I do not take Jeremys post as "oil creates blowby". I am pretty sure he is saying that a 30W oil will provide more of a cushion over a 20W against fuel dilution where a thinner oil is more susceptible in getting past the rings which is true. Even without fuel dilution,the thicker oil provides a cushion. Many here have shown that a 30W oil has helped them in some ways in our DI engines.

 

ok so how do you take this from his post " Conventional dyno oil is a thing of the past."

From a research group:

"While conventional oil will continue to dominate the U.S. engine oil market through 2025, according to Freedonia Group research, demand for fully synthetic engine oils is expected to increase 5 percent annually to 148 million gallons by 2020.

In 2015, fully synthetic products comprised 11 percent of engine oil demand, nearly all for the automotive market, according to Freedonia, which noted that increasing penetration of synthetics into the engine oils market will allow demand for synthetic products to continue growing, despite overall flatness in engine oil demand."

The market share figures seem to indicate that conventional dyno oil is far from being" a thing of the past" for the automotive market - Hyundai seems to feel it's a good match for their engines.

Now sure what exactly defines "a thing of the past" though. Saying synthetic oil is growing in market share and in some respects the oil of the future would seem to be more accurate.

 

Current conventional oils are actually synthetic blends in order to meet today's specs (SM, SN etc.).
Many oils on the market labeled "synthetic" contain highly refined petroleum (group 3), not a true synthetic.
So there's no clear gap in quality between "dino" and synthetic.

 

So there's no clear gap in quality between "dino" and synthetic.

I'd have to agree. See below quote from the site I use to evaluate oils.

Here are some key points that you will see in the following test results:

* Synthetic oils rank between number 1 and number 221.

* Conventional oils (with no aftermarket additives) rank between number 4 and number 223.

* Since the ranking of synthetic oils and conventional oils completely overlap, there is no clear distinction between their wear protection capabilities, which means that conventional oils are still far better than most people think.

* I’ve also tested a number of synthetic, semi-synthetic and conventional gasoline engine oils for the onset of thermal breakdown. Individually, the synthetic oils that were tested, varied between 300* F and 210* F. But, on average, the onset of thermal breakdown for those synthetic oils was 276*F. Individually, the conventional oils varied between 280* F and 255* F, and the average for those conventional oils was 268*F. So, as you can see looking at the averages for each type of oil, there was only an 8* difference, meaning that overall, there is little to no difference in their abilities to withstand high temps. So, while some individual synthetic oils do well when subjected to high heat, overall they do not live up to the outrageous claims of some Internet articles. At the end of the day, the conventional oils tested here, were about the same regarding their ability to withstand heat, making them a lot better than many people think. And the average value for the onset of thermal breakdown for all these gasoline engine oils combined = 273* F. For more specific test data on motor oil thermal breakdown, see SECTION 3 – MOTOR OIL THERMAL BREAKDOWN TEST DATA.

Link: https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

 

Check your PCV valve.

 

Like I said, this is not the first time this has been seen. The MPI engine has not done it and has almost the same exact mileage of the 2.4L. I will be pulling the plugs anyway just as an inspection. And I am trying to decide whether to go with 10W30 (perfectly acceptable for my locale, year round) or try going back to 5W20 conventional.

 

Plugs and PCV are fine. No leaks, all plugs normal and equal.

 

I, too , have a 2017 Sonata that is consuming oil, it seems about a quart every 1000 miles. The service manager said this is normal and I have replied BS, as I also have a 2013 Sonata with 100,000 miles and it doesn't use oil, the same for my Nissan pickup with 240,000 miles.
I wold like to hear from other Sonata owners if this is an unusual situation or standard.

Thanks
jwinko

 

A quart every 1000 miles is too much. There have been other forum members here that have demanded the dealer do a oil consumption test, they had to stop in at certain intervals and have the dealer check oil use. A couple members have got replacement engines.

My 2017 2.0T is at 77,000 miles in 2yr 3 months and doesnt use a drop that can be measured on the dipstick. I change the oil and filter , fill to full line and at 5,000 miles later it is so close to where it was when changed it is not noticeable

 

A quart every 1000 miles is normal?! If you follow the owners manual OCI, you'd be WAY LOW by the time it came to oil change time. I would escalate that with another dealer or to Hyundai.

 

If you follow the owners manual OCI, you'd be WAY LOW by the time it came to oil change time.

Um.... you check the oil level on a regular basis between changes and top-off.

 

I had a 2017 Sonata SE 2.4 and it never used oil between 5000 OCI.f
I traded it off at 40,000 miles for a 2018 SEL.
I think yours has an issue.
Could be something as simple as the drain plug is damaged.
Seems unlikely that it's burning oil.

 

I have a 2017 Hyundai Sonata Sport also and it started burning oil also 2.4 liter at around 50,000 goes through about 2 quarts every 5,000 miles this is not normal I have bought at least 5 Hyundais since 1990 however after this will not buy any more unless they get rid of these GDI motors. I did my research and found out GDI motors are garbage my recommendation is stay away from them from any auto maker. These cars build up a lot of carbon my thinking is they put in cheap valve stem seals and oil is draining onto the pistons and causing carbon buildup which leads to premature detonation and that a whole other problem. Highly recommend a thorough carbon clean every 30,000 miles.

 

Yeah I would go with a professional BG carbon cleaning really brings back the like new OEM performance when it was new again. just watch how much of a difference it made on these vehicles.!

 

Understand also that GDI engines are much higher compression than non GDI engines. More opportunity for blow-by on the rings. Used to have to watch high compression Chevy 454 engines for rapid oil consumption. Like a quart in 1000 miles. Chevy considered it "normal". Wouldn't touch it until it was 1qt in 500 miles.

 

Are you guys still having oil consumption issues? Any fixes that worked?

 

Yes, there is a way to correct the oil consumption as on my 2.0T qt p/360 miles, they replaced the engine, now no oil usage.
Other than that, no, just keep adding oil until the consumption reaches a qt in 600 miles, or the engine seizes.