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2007 Sonata has no power HELP!!!

6.6K views 13 replies 5 participants last post by  deadrx7conv  
#1 ·
I went to the movies and came out 1 1/2 hours later. I walked to the car, used the key fob to unlock doors and got in car. I put key in, turned power on but didn’t start the car. I rolled down the windows, responded to two text messages and then I tried to start the car. When I turned the key nothing happened. It was like I had a dead battery. All the lights on dash worked and door chimed. I tried a few times and then it basically drained out all power so it had no lights or door chimes. I tried to jump start the car. When I hooked up cables I got no door chimes or lights and car wouldn’t start. The electric mileage indicator wouldn’t even come on.
I had car towed to a garage. They said the battery was fully charged, had 843 cold cranking amps. They said the starter was getting power and they said alternator was good (not sure how they checked that without taking it off).
The garage replaced the main relay, ignition switch and ignition cylinder. Still no change.
Does anyone have any idea what I can try?
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#2 ·
DVOM.........

Stick the battery....... What voltage we got ??

Keep red lead on battery post,,,,,,,, touch black lead to engine metal....... what voltage we got ??

BTW,,,, Finish EDIT your profile to reflect your 2007 Sonata 2.4L --or-- 3.3L,,,,,, along with location so we know which market you reside / operate in
 
#3 ·
The garage replaced the main relay, ignition switch and ignition cylinder. Still no change.
Ah, the old lets just pick some random parts and replace them method of fault diagnosis :laugh:
I hope they didn't expect you to pay them for their incompetence.

jwstanley@me.com said:
Does anyone have any idea what I can try?
You might try finding a garage with some techs that at least know the basics of how a car's electrical system works.
 
#5 ·
#6 ·
i get no lights on dash when I turn the key. Radio doesn’t come on. Doors do not lock or unlock, door chimes don’t work, mileage indicator doesn’t come on, truck button doesn’t work. The car is so dead it’s like there is no battery in the car.

The garage it’s at said the battery showed 12v when they put a gauge on it.
 
#9 ·
i get no lights on dash when I turn the key. Radio doesn’t come on. Doors do not lock or unlock, door chimes don’t work, mileage indicator doesn’t come on, truck button doesn’t work. The car is so dead it’s like there is no battery in the car.
That because you have no electricity... no electric,, nothing light up or function...

The garage it’s at said the battery showed 12v when they put a gauge on it.
Do you have a set of jumper cable ??

Yes,, Good...

Put a black clamp on negative battery post,,,,, take other black clamp and put on something metal on engine... V6,, one of the stud that stick up through engine mount at top (engine side) should serve purpose...

DO WE have electric now ??
 
#7 ·
Can you do the battery voltage and ground wire test with a voltmeter like sbr711 suggested you do? Put leads from voltmeter onto battery posts, should read about 12.6 VDC. Now leave the red (positive) lead on the battery post and move the black lead from voltmeter to a couple of engine bare metal spots. Do you still have the 12.6 VDC?
 
#11 ·
Bum ground circuit..

Follow cable from battery negative post over to fender...

Remove battery, and remove 2 bolt holding lug to painted panel...

Grind away paint to bare steel (paint is an insulator),, slap some grease on the bare steel (clean steel is a conductor) and assemble lug back to panel.. There another lug there adjacent to battery tray at left frame rail,, same paint remove procedure..

If you to go a step farther,, other end of frame rail strap is on top of auto trans case,, clean it of corrosion

Find cable at right side,, and clean it also (strut tower I think it is)
 
#13 ·
Totally agree, I think the mechanic he is at is totally incompetent on electrical issues from the info provided thus far. I can understand repairs are difficult when fighting intermittent issues but this constant "no electrical power" issue should be very easy to locate. If the battery is indeed good, then it's just a matter of probing cables to see where the loss of continuity occurs.
 
#14 ·
Lets see a copy of the receipt from the shop to see what PN's they replaced and what they troubleshooted to determine that those components needed replacing.