You mean you don't want the free multi-point inspection that comes with the $199.00 service?? :wink:

 

Wow, never thought of it that way. I love free stuff! :grin2:

 

Okie Rich,

Director of Finances means I am poor and need to do the work myself when I can. Yes, I see him every time I look in the mirror. :mellow:

When I was in the monastery a shoe salesman from Texas used to visit us. His slogan was "If it is free it is for me". I do not sell shoes but have adopted that saying.

My go to spray has been Silicone for years. Garage door motor install guy gave me a long lecture on why Silicone was so good. Had something to do with not collecting gunk, dirt, grit, etc. WD-40 is something I no longer have a use for. It was the cat's meow growing up. There are better alternatives now.

I am curious what the Service Writer will recommend for the seals? It is probably something that has Hyundai written on the label, available at the service department, and expensive.

 

This German product is best for rubber door and trunk seals, tailgate, pano roof, etc:

[ame]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004B8GTQG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/ame]

Has lithium or silicone beat by a mile. First advised to me years ago by the best body shop in San Diego.

I've done 3 cars on current bottle and not half used yet.

Bonus points if you can pronounce it 3 times in a row quickly. :grin2:

 

This German product is best for rubber door and trunk seals, tailgate, pano roof, etc:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004B8GTQG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Has lithium or silicone beat by a mile. First advised to me years ago by the best body shop in San Diego.

I've done 3 cars on current bottle and not half used yet.

Bonus points if you can pronounce it 3 times in a row quickly. :grin2:

Anything I cannot pronounce must be good. Thanks!. I will just call it GPS.

 

Basically a forty dollar oil change and filter at a Jiffy Lube
All for the amazing price of $199 dollars with this coupon

 

Going through My Hyundai dealership says 7,500 service is around $76.00 and $58.90 based on the flyer they gave me. The difference is the $19.95 GDI fuel cleaner (Techron) listed on the flyer.

Thats why I the $199.99 coupon cost seemed so outrageous. They added testing the battery and installing a cabin filter for an extra $121.00 to $124.00.

(Coupon by P.T. Barnum for suckers only). :grin2:

 

No problems with my dealer doing all of my own maintenance as longs as I maintain meticulous records. Really not hurting them, DIY guys are rare.

Did receive a letter from them, on October 21st between 11:00 AM and 1:00 PM celebrating their 50th anniversary. But apparently not as a Hyundai dealer, not such thing as a Hyundai back then. Are giving away free hamburgers, may take advantage of this, but not for a $2.00 coupon off an oil change.

That reminds me to find a better oil filter socket, one I got fits loose. Do enjoy shop talk with the mechanics, mostly all young kids.

 

Door seals and other seals around the vehicles are made from EPDM, not rubber. EPDM just needs a wipe down occasionally. I have yet to find a product that's specifically marketed for EPDM use/longevity.

 

Which is confusing to me. Hyundai manual states:

At Least Once A Year:

• Clean body and door drain holes.
• Lubricate door hinges and hood
hinges.
• Lubricate door and hood locks and
latches.
• Lubricate door rubber weather
strips.
• Lubricate door checker.
• Check the air conditioning system.
• Inspect and lubricate automatic
transmission linkage and controls.
• Clean the battery and terminals.
• Check the brake fluid level.

So what do they mean by lubricate door rubber weather strips?

 

...I change the oil at 7,500 miles. OEM oil filter and PP 5w-30...

Why 5W30? Doesn't the manual call for 5W20?

 

In a GDI, I use 5W30 to lessen fuel dilution issues. NDSE doesn't have a GDI.

OM says 5W20 is recommended for fuel efficiency but allows 5W30.

 

I used Syl-Glide on my door seals, but I'm not sure if that was the best choice, and I've never done it on any previous cars.

 

$199.00!!!!!!!! For that????????

You know if they're promoting it, there are people out there actually paying for that. sheesh.

 

a year from now it'll be $249.00. to people with no interest will think they're are getting 7 things for only 2 hundred bucks.

 

Doesn't the owner's manual recommend you change the cabin air filter at 15,000 miles?

 

What does mileage have to do with a cabin or an air filter? Replace them when they get dirty. Never had to replace the air filter in my Supra, its washable. Now an oil filter, that is different.

Since I started a price war between six Hyundai dealers, been getting all kinds of offers, but never gave my phone number, just my email address. After awhile, just hit unsubscribe. GM still wants me back, unsubscribed to them, but getting constant offers via snail mail. When I walk back using my garage service door, pass my trashcan. Ford gave up a long time ago.

 

One son is new to home ownership, if he doesn't replace that air filter in his furnace, insufficient air flow, temperature sensor kicks off and his furnace will constantly recycle, finally learning.

For this guy, cabin filters were a blessing from heaven and way way overdue, was Chrysler that came out with the cowl vents in the early 50's, so called fresh air intake, rest copied this shortly after. Before this was just a heater box under the glove compartment with a tiny fan on it, but everybody fraught for the front passenger seat, only place with heat, everybody else froze to death.

But a cabin filter was never installed, all that road debris would end up in all the vents, and even jam up the blower motor. Really a major cleaning job until about 50 years later, finally added this filter. No incoming thermistor to switch off the heat if air flow is insufficient, but the blower air would decrease and its speed would increase, time to replace the filter.

Super easy on the Hyundai, good to empty your glove compartment first, has two plastic knob on either side, when those are removed, glove compartment door would go clear down, if you don't empty it first, all that stuff will end up on the floor. Left and right knobs are different, don't lose or reverse them. Will see a plastic shroud carefully remove that, don't break the snaps.

Good to have a vacuum cleaner with a clevis tool on it to hold that near the filter to pick up any debris. Don't have this problem, check it frequently, last time, just three dead flies in mine.

Last vehicle, some debris dropped down, just unsnapped the lower cover, removed one connector, three screws, and the blower motor was in my hand for cleaning. Hyundai appears to be the same, but says to remove the front passenger seat first. No need to do this, slides clear back. So make it a point to check it more frequently.

On the Hyundai, actually fun, daughter's Kia Soul is the same way, but before she came home, had her dealer replace it for $$$$$, showed her how easy it is to replace it. Seem to have three replacement filters on hand, ebay special, the carbon type..

 

Really no problems with Japanese or German electronic data sheets, while the language was weird, circuit diagrams and mathematical formulas are a universal language, and this is all I needed.

But sure had problems in Italy, self service gas stations required good knowledge in their language, was out for me, had to find a full service gas station, could use sign language to get the tank filled. Had to sit in that car I rented, could figure most of it out, but could not find the cruise control, manual was in the glove compartment, in Italian, forget that.

But not only in Italy, same thing with that Chrysler 300 I got stuck with in Portland, OR, was dark, in a dark place, gear shift lever was a knob on the console, head lamp switch on the dash, windshield wipers were part of the directional signal. Forget about factory GPS, while I knew all the words and definition of them, brain could not comprehend how these words were stuck together.

Come to think about this, same problem with 1,015 different tax forms with instructions from our IRS. Did take a while to learn the Limited factory GPS and all those buttons on the steering wheel.

 

Agree - took me a lot time to realize the "Aw Derves" (heard) and "hor d'oeuvres" (read) where the same thing.

 

Since I did not read much 50+ years of my life, spelling is very difficult for me. I am slow in some areas. These threads help me mentally prepare for visits to the dealership so I get a fair deal.

Knowledge is Power! :smile:

 

Excellence post Nicholas D!

I did not know the history of deal and dealer but was seeing that they were similar before your post.

Being slow with new situations I was terrified of buying a new car. What helped is what you suggested. I had 3 dealerships I contacted on line. It was an education. Two of them could not come close to the $15k I had to spend. The 3rd one had what I wanted for that price. Then I had to go to Manager's office to sign paperwork. I held my ground and refused extended warranty. The reality is I did not have any money to buy one so it was an easy decision.

So much of the dealership is psychological. I like to take care of things and tend to be detailed/anal about certain things. Maintenance is one of those things. The $199 service at 7.5k is the Dealer bluffing, trying to see who will fold or say "I am in". It would have to be an emotional decision to pay that much at 7.5k miles.

It is not like I have a Lexus where I would expect those costly, low mileage visits to the dealership. :wink:

 

The $199 service at 7.5k is the Dealer bluffing, trying to see who will fold or say "I am in".

Most people don't do and have been told by the dealer they will void their warranty if they do do their own maintenance.

Therefore they have no idea what it takes to do their own maintenance.

$200 doesn't seem like a bad deal if you don't know that the oil is $20, the oil filter is $6, the cabin air filter is $20, and it takes 15-minutes to change the oil and rotate the tires while it is draining, and 5-minutes to change the cabin air filter (which isn't due until 15K anyway).

 

I was told that by my salesperson, and told her it would not, but ...

 

Mostly it changed with OBD II ...

DIY was pretty easy in the 70's.

In the 1980's, everything was computerized and people got the impression that they couldn't work on their cars anymore.

In the late 90's, code readers came down below $100 and people learned they can just plug in a scanner and it will give them a code and basically tell them what to replace.

And yes - I was a bit different. I actually enjoy working on the car and would have asked the dealer to show me where it said the warranty was void if I did my own maintenance and would look at a different brand if they actually could do so.

 

Mostly it changed with OBD II ...

DIY was pretty easy in the 70's. For me mostly due to easy access. There was a lot of open space under the hood. Now if I had a technical question I was out of luck.

In the 1980's, everything was computerized and people got the impression that they couldn't work on their cars anymore. Honda and Toyota were also making reliable cars compared to American Brands. Some people found they did not need to work on cars since they were more reliable.

In the late 90's, code readers came down below $100 and people learned they can just plug in a scanner and it will give them a code and basically tell them what to replace. The Internet for me is the reason I can DYI, not a code reader. Once you get the code you need to know what it means and what repair, if any, is required. Otherwise you could be throwing parts at a problem. Car Forums or access to knowledge online started growing in the 90's. Dealer Techs, Mechanics, and Technically gifted sharing their knowledge allowed me to take my last car to 274,000 miles. I am a follower, not a leader when it comes to mechanical repairs.

And yes - I was a bit different. I actually enjoy working on the car and would have asked the dealer to show me where it said the warranty was void if I did my own maintenance and would look at a different brand if they actually could do so.

I get peace of mind knowing I will attend to details someone else would miss due to lack of time/not caring about my car.

I work with people and my car does not talk back (yet). I know it is probably coming in the future. That will be a killjoy when my car starts telling me what it did not like of what I did wrong when doing maintenance. :surprise:

 

My car does talk back. It tells me that I have a text message, and asks me if I want it to read it. It answers me when I tell it to send a text to my wife, and asks me which phone I want to send it on.

 

Touche! I think I will pass on getting a wife if that is required to have a talking car. :laugh:

I have an SE and do not use cell in my car so I am safe for now.

 

Working on this new stuff is miserable, not only using CRS unplated bolts in aluminum, but you have all those way over priced sensors, either vacuum or electrical, one tiny slip of the wrench, will break the tops off. With steel in aluminum, get electrolysis, trying to remove these bolts, the head will break off.

One reason why I hate buying a used vehicle, but don't have much choice with kids in college, and the cost of insurance is more than what you paid for the vehicle. Never paid more than trade in value, rare for any dealer to give you trade in value. Ha, my neighbor tries to trade in his Ford 350, book said $15,700.00 for it, was only offered $7,000 for it, he owed $15,000.00 on it.

Two vehicles come to mind, a 98 Ford Escort, coudn't check every bolt in this thing, water pump was new with four bolts, two were broken off and a ton of RTV was added, did last a couple of month, but rather than remove the engine, removed the strut assembly, drilled holes in the wheel well, patched those when done. And rather than using cheap CRS bolts retapped for English using grade 8 bolts, they don't break off. But was an all day job.

Another was on a 93 Bravada kid wanted, instead of using a cast iron case, cheap sheet metal, large hole was rusted through. Only way to properly shim this things is with a wire gauge for 0.020 clearance, if not, will tear up the ring gear. Torx screws were used for the flywheel cover, even pounding the correct bit in, little torque on the wrench rounded the inside out. Another all day job, all that four wheel drive stuff had to be removed to get access to these bolts. Another case where English grade 8 hex bolts were used. Hate Torx with a passion, but production sure loves these things, are tappered to fit on a bit and stick there to save a couple of seconds, but after this, misery for the guy who has to work on this crap.

Can repair a brass radiator or condenser, aluminum and plastic are throwaway for only $$$$$$$$. R-134a is really miserable, only correct way to work on these things is a complete flush with this stupid PAG oil. If not done these way, even the slightest bit of moisture forms an acid that will eat these things for the inside out. R-12 never had this problem.

Many new problems that were never problems before.

 

Working on this new stuff is miserable...
Many new problems that were never problems before.

NicholasD,

I actually hate working on cars when it is in tight spaces, many obstacles, etc. I respect a mechanic that deals with this day in and out. This makes the 100,000 mile warranty very appealing.

Changing oil and filters, adding Techron I can handle. Routine, repeated maintenance I am good at.

My car talks, man. I got one of those 1982 Datsuns. You leave yo' lights on, the car say- *dooo* 'Lights are on'. It does. I take a girl out, I leave the lights on on purpose, you know? Get out the car, car say- *dooo* 'lights are on'. Girl say, "Did your car say somethin'?" I say, "Yeah, it did."

I brought it through my neighborhood though, got a different rhythm to it. You leave yo' lights on, car say- *dooo* ("black" voice) "Say, man, you lef' yo' lights on!' 'I said yo' lights is on, man! What the f**k- you blind and deaf? Turn off yo' ******' lights!" I got in the car the other day, turned the key, car say- *dooo* Hey, man! Somebody stole yo' battery! I say we go get the m**********r!
Eddie Murphy - https://madmusic.com/song_details.aspx?SongID=20217

I forgot the details and couldn't find it on-line, but one of my favorite comics from a car magazine in the 1980:
Frame 1: Man leaves car. Car says "Please turn off the headlights."
Frame 2: Car says "And how about closing the door, like you weren't raised in a barn."
Frame 3: Car says "And don't forget to change my oil and fill me up with gas, the good stuff, not that cheap stuff you usually buy!"
Frame 4: Man destroys hood of car with a sledgehammer.
Frame 5: Car says "That irresponsible action just cost you $17,453.34!!!"

I missed that one. Frame 3 was what I was thinking. You change the oil and the car complains, not liking the oil you used. That is the day I stop changing the oil myself. :grin2:

 

Connectivity is a major problem, in the good old days, pre-tinned wire was used, and only about 5-6 wires from the dash to the engine, today, hundreds. Use to use 16AWG wire because it was more robust, now find 28 gauge wire.

Not only wire but point contact relays and switches, and hundreds of connectors, ha, with all the training I had, zero on how to disconnect these things. Do you push the locking tab in or out, some have a red additional lock that has to be pulled out and can get lost. But they are sure easy to reconnect.

But the worst is using bare copper wire that oxidizes and turns green or brown, latter is copper oxide that is an excellent insulator. Even worse is using insulation displacement connectors to save stripping the insulation from the end of the wire, just making a poor contact between bare brass and copper.

With out of warranty problems, want to replace this or that for $$$$$ when the real problem is the connector itself. Kid got robbed for 120 bucks for an ABS sensor, connector was exposed to road salt, why didn't you tell me first? With insulation displacement, spent a whole weekend using a sharp knife cutting off just a bit of the insulation and putting a drop of solder on it where it went into the terminal.

Other problems were caused by our EPA banning electrical plating in the USA. Do agree, with heavy metals, should not go into our sewage, but could be placed in a reservoir and let it evaporate, those overprice heavy metals could have been recovered.

Sliding contacts were used, kind of self cleaning, point contact is not, more problems. But just be a good boy and trade them off every three years. Kid got hit 125 bucks for a new ABS sensor, major problem is the connector, can be tested, I just hard wire these, soldered with heat shrink Not like my electric drill I have to plug in every five minutes, should be good for life.