I just wondering if anyone has run into this or if anyone has a good electrical understanding that could help me out.

I've come across this fault before several times, on lots of different models of car (not the Santa Fe though). And the problem is almost always caused by broken wires in the loom between the car body and the tailgate. The wiring in that area is flexed everytime you open/close the tailgate and the wires in the rubber tubing can eventually break. I've also had a couple of the release switches fail due to water ingress.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated​

 

I've come across this fault before several times, on lots of different models of car (not the Santa Fe though). And the problem is almost always caused by broken wires in the loom between the car body and the tailgate. The wiring in that area is flexed everytime you open/close the tailgate and the wires in the rubber tubing can eventually break. I've also had a couple of the release switches fail due to water ingress.
View attachment 470083

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated​

Ill take a close look at that tonight. Everything else in the hatch is still working so im not expecting to that a mess like that picture. Im wondering if the push button went bad? Would that stop it from unlatching from the keygob as well?

 

I cant say 100% for sure how it works. And i cant seem to figure out how to test it. I replaced the actual latch mechanism already with a new one and that didnt fix it. I tried to find a wiring diagram online to point to a starting point but no luck.

 

The button on the keyfob only unlock the tailgate, you still need to press the button on the tailgate

 

Ok, so that has me leaning more towards the button being the culprit. I wonder if there is anyway to test it?

 

Ok, so that has me leaning more towards the button being the culprit.

The fob doesn't operate the release actuator directly. So that doesn't really help us at all. It could still be either the button or the actuator circuit that has failed.

I wonder if there is anyway to test it?

A couple of ways off the top of my head...
You could use a paper clip/wire link to bypass the switch, and see if that makes the latch release. Or a bit more fiddly, use a multimeter to check the continuity through the switch when the button is being pressed. I'd expect to get a voltage (probably 3~5V) if I connected a voltmeter across the two switch terminals on the harness connector too. If there is no voltage I reckon your definitely looking at a wiring issue on the button circuit.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated​

 

Attached find 2014 vintage schematic diagram, SD812-1.
A place to start. Smart J Block provides all commands for
the Tailgate latch Unlock. All controlled by Intelligent
Power Switch Control circuitry.

Might want to attempt Smart J Block reset, verify wire
condition at top of lift gate harness as well as verifying
both ground connections at or near the latch motor and
push button in lift gate..

When unlocked, system should provide open command to
the latch motor each time the external button is pushed. My
2017 Sport will do this with the lift gate fully open. FYI

Paul

 

Thanks for that info. Its going to take me a bit to figure it out....im not the best on the electrical side. How do i reset Smart J Block? Ill try that first.
Thanks again!!!

 

Take a look at the attached. Goto page 7 of 7 and note how to RESET
the Smart J Block. It is possible that one of the modules is acting up
and a reset may put the system back on track. This is literally the first
step in troubleshooting other modules like the door locks, window controls
and other body specific modules in the car. Try it and see if the reset
clears the problem. You might get lucky. If that doesn't work, you will
need to begin detail visual and electrical tests on the components, connector
and harness assemblies that deal with the tail gate latch system. One step
at a time. Good luck.

Paul

 

Did you check the 20 amp Door Lock fuse in the Smart J-Block? That is
first, I didn't see where you said you checked fuses. Making assumptions
is fatal in this troubleshooting world.

 

I did check the fuses with a multimeter but ill check again. If the fuse was bad would the door locks still function properly? Or is this fuse solely for the hatch?
Thanks again for the info. Im going to have a late evening tomorrow digging more into this

 

No need if the door locks work. It provides power for them too. If your fuses check
good you will want to follow Scottie's lead and do a good visual inspection on the
flexible harness. Most likely there will be a broken wire/connection somewhere
and since the lift gate is where the failed actuator is located and where a lot of
door slamming and harness bending occurs, it is a good place to start looking
With the doors unlocked, you should be able to press the latch release button and
each time it is pressed, the actuator should work. I know it doesn't work, but if you
wiggle or move the harnesses around as you test the button, you might find where
a broken wire is located and by moving it, perhaps it will connect and actuate the
latch release. First you need to make sure things are mechanically sound before
you start testing the wiring and signal paths. Inspect the two grounds that are
connected to the latch mechanism and the push button, if one of them is faulty the
latch will not actuate. You may need to remove a panel or two to get access to what
you need to inspect, so be prepared.

 

Thanks so much for all of the info. Ive got some trim off but ran out of time the other day. Im going to tear it down further this weekend with the hope of finding something obvious. I do appreciate all the info, lots of knowledge between you guys!

 

Funny...i was thinking the paper clip route. Its a simple 2 wire button. Just getting to the wire connector is the headache. From what ive seen i need to be prepared to buy new clips as the usually break when you take the trim piece off. Something to look forward to i guess.

 

Well....here is the update....issue is fixed!!! Thanks for all of the help and info guys. Once I got the trim panel off and could access the wiring harness for the push button I followed the 2 wire and then jumped the 2 pins and the latch activated. I then removed the push button and found 1 of the wires had a break in it. I was going to order a new push button but it doesn't plug into the harness....its wired directly into the harness it self. Where the break in the wire was it was only about half an inch from the button but I managed to get it stripped, twisted back together, soldered and weatherproofed. For now its working...but I'll keep an eye out for a good price on a new button and wiring harness just in case my fix doesn't last. I also broke a few clips getting the trim panel off too so I'll pick up some of them in case the trim panels starts rattling.
Thanks again for all of the help...my only regret is not taking any pictures.

 

issue is fixed!!!

Glad you managed to find the break without too much drama. Thanks for taking the time to post back and confirm what was causing the problem. That might help the next guy

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated​

 

No problem. With all the help i received all i can hope for is it helps someone else!!

 

I am having a similar issue but not quite the same. I replaced the latch and when I push the button the motor is driving the latch in the wrong direction. Where you manually push the lever to the right to unlatch it manually, pushing the tail gate button causes the latch to go even further to the left, like the motor is running backwards.
Any ideas?

 

pushing the tail gate button causes the latch to go even further to the left, like the motor is running backwards.

I reckon that is problem with the motor in the replacement latch, assuming you haven't messed with the wiring. It sounds like the yoke containing the magnets has been fitted to the motor the wrong way round, causing the motor to run in the wrong direction. If you were to swap over the two motor wires on the latch harness connector that should make the motor run in the correct direction. If you look closely at the 4 wires on the latch connector you should find that two are slightly thicker than the other two. The thicker wires are the ones that connect to the motor inside the latch. I think it's terminals 3 & 4 on your model of Santa Fe...

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated​

 

Could the wires be inverted ?

 

Hi all, hoping for a little help here. I have a 14 Santa Fe sport and the rear liftgate wont open. I can lock or unlock with the keyfob or the button inside the door but i dont hear anything happening at the rear hatch. If i hold the open hatch on the keyfob the lights blink twice as they should but the hatch still wont open. I purchased a new locking mechanism assuming that was the problem but no luck. Its not a power liftgate, just a manual one. The only way i can open it is to crawl through the back seat and manually open the locking mechanism from the inside. My next step im thinking is maybe the button on the liftgate is bad? Im not sure if that was bad if it would stop the locking mechanism or not as i cant find a wiring diagram. I just wondering if anyone has run into this or if anyone has a good electrical understanding that could help me out. Sorry for the long post, trying to make the details as clear as possible. Thanks in advance

Not sure when this was posted. However I had the same problem when the rear lift gate would not open. However, if when you use the unlock button on the fob, or the inside button to open all you should be able to open the gate. Here is how I did it. You are okay, if when you use the open that the gate comes up, just a little bit. Then keep your one hand on the button to open the lift gate manually and put your fingers under the small opening and pull up. You should be able to open it then.

 

My life gate doesn't lock.can It be a fuse.