UPDATE,
Well, I DID sneak out of work and install it...the DELUXE bar. We have a Service Dept and my techs have torque wrneches, so I wanted to do it there....then drove 55 miles home, on highway and some nice curves country roads.

WOW, GO GET A STRUT BAR. What a difference in how this cars rides/feels.

The play in the steering seems to be gone, steering is very slick and smooth and responsive.
The car goes around corners and turns with much less body roll.
Highway curves at 70 and 80 don't feel like you're in a curve now, very stable and smooth
The scary part is this car now seems like it could acheive speeds and be even more stable...like 100mph+ and not feel like it.
Bumps, seems, transitions seem to not affect the car like they used to, as if the front suspensions are working together to share the impact.

For $125, it's a great mod. This needs to be standard for this car.

 

QUOTE (stargate125645 @ May 23 2011, 07:59 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=449925

Too bad most young people don't know how to drive manual transmission cars... I would have loved to have purchased an SE with Navigation, but a manual transmission was more important to my driving enjoyment.

You can thank the manufacturers for this. Its not kids not learning, its manufacturers putting manuals on nothing but stripped down models. I didn't want a stripped down model so this is my first automatic personally owned car since I have been 16. And that was at the request of my wife.

Also now-a-days, DSC's are faster, lighter and more efficient. Way back when, manuals were lighter and more efficient.

I wish you could "option" cars like yesteryear where the automatics back then (option) would be the manuals of today. If you want them, option it. But manufacturers are just to lazy.

 

QUOTE (Bearcats @ May 25 2011, 10:11 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=450725

You can thank the manufacturers for this. Its not kids not learning, its manufacturers putting manuals on nothing but stripped down models. I didn't want a stripped down model so this is my first automatic personally owned car since I have been 16. And that was at the request of my wife.

Also now-a-days, DSC's are faster, lighter and more efficient. Way back when, manuals were lighter and more efficient.

I wish you could "option" cars like yesteryear where the automatics back then (option) would be the manuals of today. If you want them, option it. But manufacturers are just to lazy.

DSC as in ESC? I'm lost regarding your second paragraph. The manuals are more efficient than the automatics for the Sonata, too, though that is not the case for every manufacturer.

 

QUOTE (stargate125645 @ May 25 2011, 12:14 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=450769

DSC as in ESC? I'm lost regarding your second paragraph. The manuals are more efficient than the automatics for the Sonata, too, though that is not the case for every manufacturer.

Dual Stage Clutch. Basically two clutches for quicker engagement of gears. Its also means way less fluid for an auto tranny as the torque convertor is removed.

Yes, the Sonata does not have a DSC so its not as efficient. However, more and more manufacturers are going to it as the technology becomes cheaper. The new Ford Focus enables the use of DSC.

 

QUOTE (Bearcats @ May 25 2011, 12:20 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=450803

Dual Stage Clutch. Basically two clutches for quicker engagement of gears. Its also means way less fluid for an auto tranny as the torque convertor is removed.

Yes, the Sonata does not have a DSC so its not as efficient. However, more and more manufacturers are going to it as the technology becomes cheaper. The new Ford Focus enables the use of DSC.

I hate to continue the off topic, but I'd like to learn so forgive me... So if a human were as exact and precise on when to shift as the car CPU, the manual would be just as fuel efficient as the DSC-equipped automatic, right? (In other words, the only difference is the person and not the systems at that point.) If that isn't the case, then why couldn't the manual transmission be made to be the same as the automatic except the shifts triggered by the driver?

 

QUOTE (stargate125645 @ May 25 2011, 02:42 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=450875

I hate to continue the off topic, but I'd like to learn so forgive me... So if a human were as exact and precise on when to shift as the car CPU, the manual would be just as fuel efficient as the DSC-equipped automatic, right? (In other words, the only difference is the person and not the systems at that point.) If that isn't the case, then why couldn't the manual transmission be made to be the same as the automatic except the shifts triggered by the driver?

A human cannot shift as fast as the DSC. Unless said human can do fractional second shifting.

Its not timing as in when, its total over all time between gear x and gear y. Its the reason the DSC technology has been mated with paddle shifters in Ferraris, Porsches and Lamborghinis. The paddle gives the operator the "when" control if he/she so desires and the rest is handled by the computer(s).

 

QUOTE (Bearcats @ May 25 2011, 02:03 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=450883

A human cannot shift as fast as the DSC. Unless said human can do fractional second shifting.

I used the Subjunctive II tense for a reason.

 

The other car I was considering when I got my GLS was the Jetta TDI with DSG. The dual clutch was very smooth I thought, and with the torque from the diesel fun to drive. I was scared off because of some of the recent problems with DSG and the distance from my home to the nearest dealership. Even with 10% higher charge currently on diesel (about $0.35 above $3.75 gasoline), it's supposed to get around 20% to 30% better mpg. Here's the info with some more details on the implementation if you're interested.

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/DSG-faq-VW-Audi.htm

 

Do you guys know the size of the strut tower screws? I'd like to buy the a set of bit sockets before I receive the Shark strut bar.

 

QUOTE (WesleyYin @ Jun 2 2011, 12:41 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=455031

Do you guys know the size of the strut tower screws? I'd like to buy the a set of bit sockets before I receive the Shark strut bar.

They are nuts, and either 12 or 14MM. I will check my car after work if nobody else chimes in before that. I'm off in about 4 hours from the time I post this.

 

QUOTE (Scott2011 @ Jun 2 2011, 12:45 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=455034

They are nuts, and either 12 or 14MM. I will check my car after work if nobody else chimes in before that. I'm off in about 4 hours from the time I post this.

Scott is correct...the nuts are 14mm.

 

QUOTE (bkim @ Jun 2 2011, 03:04 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=455049

Scott is correct...the nuts are 14mm.

Thanks to Scott2011 and bkim. I will put it on tomorrow and do a corning test before and after the installation.

 

With a friend, I installed the strut bar this morning. The installation was longer than I expected because the end steel pieces that should be bolted to the strut towers are larger than what is shown on the shark racing website. Each is attached by three bolts instead of two. A small part of each must be pushed under the hard plastic at the far end of the engine bay. Also, we realized that we must reverse the sides of the two bolts at the joints in order to use a torque wrench on them. We applied about 37 pounds per foot to those on the strut towers and 50 to the joint bolts.

We both test drove the SE before and after the installation. Frankly, neither of us noticed anything significant, or we were numb. What I could say is that the stock all-season tires are craps. They squeak so easily!

 

Alright, so I am in the market now for a strut bar. I feel chattering in the steering wheel in the corners and overall the steering just seems loose. My question is, I want to get the best quality strut bar, something that will really tighten everything up but Shark has three out there.

The most expensive -> Solid Strut Bar $230
Intermediate -> Deluxe Front $125
Basic Strut bar -> $92

In my head, I'm thinking about getting the most expensive one but is it really worth the extra $100-$130 over the other two? If anyone has any working knowledge and/or real time experience with these three I would really appreciate the help!

As with the purchase of this car itself, I want the most bang for my buck! :3gears:

Thanks!

 

QUOTE (BlackPhantom @ Jun 4 2011, 08:59 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=455981

I want the most bang for my buck!

That would be the $125 bar.
Top quality, and the improvement in handling is quite dramatic.

 

Alright fellow turbo drivers! Got mine today, and installed it. I cannot express to you the sheer amount of body roll that is reduced. On on and off ramps the car used to be like //// but now its all ||||| . :grin:

I got the Luxon Solid Strut bar from SR.
The following are pictures of it:
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/832/img0082y.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/815/img0081qr.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/855/img0080gp.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/96/img0079ge.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/51/img0078cl.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/856/img0077gr.jpg/


Install took less than 15 minutes, there was a screw on the passenger side holding a fuse(i think), it had to be removed.
Package shipping took less than a week :grin: .
Ride quality is improved at both low and high speeds. Over bumps the cars steering does not go loose like it used to. Some of the random cracks coming from the dashboard have also stopped. The car is definitely more responsive on turn in. I was amazed at how much this improved the handling of the car. Now for some new tires.

 

QUOTE (Ghost* @ Jun 14 2011, 04:42 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=461148

Alright fellow turbo drivers! Got mine today, and installed it. I cannot express to you the sheer amount of body roll that is reduced. On on and off ramps the car used to be like //// but now its all ||||| . :grin:

I got the Luxon Solid Strut bar from SR.
The following are pictures of it:
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/832/img0082y.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/815/img0081qr.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/855/img0080gp.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/96/img0079ge.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/51/img0078cl.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/856/img0077gr.jpg/


Install took less than 15 minutes, there was a screw on the passenger side holding a fuse(i think), it had to be removed.
Package shipping took less than a week :grin: .
Ride quality is improved at both low and high speeds. Over bumps the cars steering does not go loose like it used to. Some of the random cracks coming from the dashboard have also stopped. The car is definitely more responsive on turn in. I was amazed at how much this improved the handling of the car. Now for some new tires.

Dude looks great! Talk about pollen, wow. I thought mine was bad

Anyway, I have the same bar, however I installed mine a bit different. I put the washers on top of the strut tower bolts, which made them sit underneath the bar.

I wonder which way is correct and if it makes a difference...

 

Is the basic strut bar two pieces as shown in the SR website? Anyone with pics? The deluxe just doesn't look at that sturdy.

 

QUOTE (Ghost* @ Jun 14 2011, 04:42 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=461148

Over bumps the cars steering does not go loose like it used to.

Can you kindly elaborate on this statement. One of the things that I totally dislike about my car is the rattle I hear and feel in steering system when driving over uneven surfaces - such as what you find at road works. In comparison to my wife's really solid 2005 Tucson, it makes the car feel cheap and ancient. Is this what you refer to? If a strut bar will solve this I will order one tomorrow.

 

QUOTE (RamKat @ Jun 17 2011, 07:43 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=462748

Can you kindly elaborate on this statement. One of the things that I totally dislike about my car is the rattle I hear and feel in steering system when driving over uneven surfaces - such as what you find at road works. In comparison to my wife's really solid 2005 Tucson, it makes the car feel cheap and ancient. Is this what you refer to? If a strut bar will solve this I will order one tomorrow.

Its funny you mention this. I noticed this too close to when I bought the car. The build quality of this car has come into question many times, I hear NUMEROUS squeaks, creaks, rattles, and vibration noises that I actively keep track of to report to the dealer on first service. After the installation of this strut bar, I have to say that a lot of those squeaks and rattles that I used to hear from the front suspension have stopped. The car seems to return to its "equilibrium position", what I mean by this is the way it drives on a smooth road, much quicker then it used to. The steering wheel, well thats still there but its expected, let me explain this also: I have a similar car to your Tucson, a CR-V. These SUVs are geared to give a more comfortable ride hence they provide less info about the road in the steering wheel. The Sonata, especially the ones running 18s are expected to give feedback in the steering wheel about bumps on the road because of the lower profile tires and the stiffer springs and shocks. What I was referring too about "the steering going loose" was that at some speeds it would feel like the cars front end was actually HOPPING over bumps. In fact on fast left handers, like when making a left on a yellow, I could actually feel the car hopping and losing traction. It was actually scary. Luckily I believe that most of the problems that the Sonata has with the front suspension have been fixed with a strut bar, however one word of advice: hold off on getting the $220 Solid Strut from SR, after installation I am experiencing a really annoying and cheap sounding rubbing noise at low rpms. I believe this has to do with the strut bar rubbing against the head of the fire wall of the car. Get either of the other 2 strut bars from SR, they accomplish the same basic tasks but manage to stay away from the cars firewall, at least as far as I can tell from the pictures.
Hope that helped.

 

QUOTE (dolsson @ Jun 15 2011, 08:12 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=461482

Dude looks great! Talk about pollen, wow. I thought mine was bad

Anyway, I have the same bar, however I installed mine a bit different. I put the washers on top of the strut tower bolts, which made them sit underneath the bar.

I wonder which way is correct and if it makes a difference...

I'm going to double check this on friday, I have to take the strut bar off to diagnose a rubbing noise I'm getting in the cabin of the car.
I really wish these strut bars came with instructions. I think I'll also email SR about some instructions. I'll report back sometime during the weekend.
Cheers.

 

QUOTE (Ghost* @ Jun 23 2011, 01:49 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=465325

I'm going to double check this on friday, I have to take the strut bar off to diagnose a rubbing noise I'm getting in the cabin of the car.
I really wish these strut bars came with instructions. I think I'll also email SR about some instructions. I'll report back sometime during the weekend.
Cheers.

Do you have to jack up the car in order to take off the 3 bolts? How does it work? Also If i am currently not experiencing any problems yet with my turbo, should i get it; will it make a difference?

 

QUOTE (Ghost* @ Jun 23 2011, 01:47 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=465323

Its funny you mention this. I noticed this too close to when I bought the car. The build quality of this car has come into question many times, I hear NUMEROUS squeaks, creaks, rattles, and vibration noises that I actively keep track of to report to the dealer on first service. After the installation of this strut bar, I have to say that a lot of those squeaks and rattles that I used to hear from the front suspension have stopped. The car seems to return to its "equilibrium position", what I mean by this is the way it drives on a smooth road, much quicker then it used to. The steering wheel, well thats still there but its expected, let me explain this also: I have a similar car to your Tucson, a CR-V. These SUVs are geared to give a more comfortable ride hence they provide less info about the road in the steering wheel. The Sonata, especially the ones running 18s are expected to give feedback in the steering wheel about bumps on the road because of the lower profile tires and the stiffer springs and shocks. What I was referring too about "the steering going loose" was that at some speeds it would feel like the cars front end was actually HOPPING over bumps. In fact on fast left handers, like when making a left on a yellow, I could actually feel the car hopping and losing traction. It was actually scary. Luckily I believe that most of the problems that the Sonata has with the front suspension have been fixed with a strut bar, however one word of advice: hold off on getting the $220 Solid Strut from SR, after installation I am experiencing a really annoying and cheap sounding rubbing noise at low rpms. I believe this has to do with the strut bar rubbing against the head of the fire wall of the car. Get either of the other 2 strut bars from SR, they accomplish the same basic tasks but manage to stay away from the cars firewall, at least as far as I can tell from the pictures.
Hope that helped.

Thanks for the thorough reply ghost - much appreciated. I do expect to feel the road and don't mind that. it is just that i don't like the metal on metal sound and feel I am getting. My dad has driven several BMW's since 1975 and I remember that there was a similar annoying "play" in the steering system on one of the 528's he had, which was not present on any of the other 5's or 7's.

I do have a hunch that the play that I am hearing on the Sonata has to do with the body flexing. I am going to complain about it for a second time at my next service, if they cannot fix it, then I am going to order a deluxe strut bar.

 

QUOTE (JPC1080 @ Jun 23 2011, 01:59 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=465327

Do you have to jack up the car in order to take off the 3 bolts? How does it work? Also If i am currently not experiencing any problems yet with my turbo, should i get it; will it make a difference?

No, you do NOT need to jack the car. Place it on a flat, level surface with no tension on the suspension (other than the weight of the car), and remove the nuts. Slap the strut bar on, then washers, then nuts. If it takes some wrestling to get it on, then wrestle it.

 

QUOTE (Ghost* @ Jun 23 2011, 01:49 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=465325

I'm going to double check this on friday, I have to take the strut bar off to diagnose a rubbing noise I'm getting in the cabin of the car.
I really wish these strut bars came with instructions. I think I'll also email SR about some instructions. I'll report back sometime during the weekend.
Cheers.

That's my only complaint with SR ... I've purchased a bunch of items from them and the only thing that came with instructions was the lip spoiler which I didn't need. I had contacted them previously and they merely referred me to this website for information.

I've installed the Deluxe Strut Bar on my Limited Turbo and ever since I'm also getting some sort of metallic vibration beneath the hood. Cannot tell from exactly where but I think against the firewall.

I also don't have a remedy for the fact that there is no clearance once installed, and the bar is touching/rubbing against both a hose and a wire harness.