I was directed to this thread and the only post worth viewing is the very first one so don't waste your time reading 19 pages.

Ridge Collar: Affordable/Effective Performance Upgrade

I installed mine today. You need a 1/2" drive 19mm 6 point high quality socket to remove the 4 bolts. A 1/2" breaker bar, 1/2" extension, and 1/2" ratchet are also needed. Just slide the bushings onto the bolts that you remove. The thick bushings go on the 2 front cradle bolts and the thin bushings go on the rear suspension cross member bolts. Look at the pics in the thread link to see which bolts to remove. If you find it difficult to install the bushing/bolt into the frame hole it's probably because the bolt and hole are off center. Loosen (not remove) any bolts that support the side your working on to allow the frame to center itself on the bushing. Only work on one bushing at a time so as not to allow the sub frame to fall down. I never jacked up any wheel to do this. It can be done on the ground. I put the rear end of the vehicle over a hole in the yard to access the rear bolts (also put on my Tuix rear sway bar while I was there).

I test drove the vehicle and I swear I can tell the suspension is squared up. My steering wheel just feels more centered and stable. I had to loosen my left front side to get the bushing in which probably squared up that side's geometry. As far as ride feel, changes in handling, & suspension motion I'm just going to have to drive it more for a full evaluation.

This should at least provide more information than what I got when I purchased these from Shark Racing which I still have not heard back from on this.

 

Sounds like something that is worth the money if it makes going over bumps smoother.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

Now that I have been able to drive a while with these installed I can say this.

The vehicle tracks straighter and my noises from the front have completely disappeared. I knew when I installed the LF one that things where going to be different because it straightened the alignment of that hole with the bolt. I have to say I would recommend these.

 

NICE Jim - Thanks for posting this.

I've been waiting on mine for a while now, heard good things, but only from vendors.

I was wondering if the car would be more reactive and not so sloppy in sweeping turns as it is now.

 

Auto Parts - Parts.com, For Every Part of Your Life

#3 in diagram.

 

Sounds like you need the 18.3mm rear sway bar along with these. These bushings only eliminated a noise I had over bumps at slow speeds and made the steering feel straighter/firmer at road speeds in a straight line. If your subframe is not properly aligned these will definitely help.

 

These are the actual locations

 

It looks like from the parts diagram that there are four of the bushings up front... so the Shark kit should include six of the collars for the whole car.

 

So you changed 4 bolts and the suspension is better? What was it torqued to also? That's hard to believe I'm sorry not trying to be rude but I find it hard to believe

 

four nuts also hold on a new strut bar, six for a new sway bar. eight allow you to change out the entire strut/spring...

 

You don't change the bolts. You remove the bolts and add the collars to the bolts and reinstall the bolts. The holes the bolts go thru are much larger than the bolts so the collars actually center the holes around the bolts and take up the extra space reducing noise and motion along with centering your subframe. My LH Front side was so bad the subframe was rubbing on the bolt causing a noise. The collar fixed that.
As far as torque goes the factory torque on the front 2 bolts is 130ft lbs.

 

make that eight per car.