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Weird battery cable issue

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21K views 38 replies 9 participants last post by  Rsmith59  
#1 ·
I have a weird issue with the small fuse box attached to the battery positive terminal. It appears battery acid has weeped up the battery post and destroyed the attached fuse box, eating away at the plastic and removing the plating from the metal parts, exposing and corroding the copper. The box at the termal was filled with a disgusting goo.

I learned that this box is not available as a separate part, but is part of what Hyundai calls the Battery Cable. A new one is over $300. I didn't need the cable, as mine was fine. Plus, I did not want to have to remove and replace the cable to the starter, alternator, ECU and ? Too much work.

I went to a nearby salvage yard and got this cable assembly from an Elantra for $30. It's not the same as the 2013 Elantra GT - in fact the main fuse was 200 A not 150 - but the box main body and components are the same, which was all I needed. I discarded the unneeded cable and swapped out the box parts, using the original correct fuse. Then inserted the cables at the car and bolted them in. I did have to cut the one wire to the ECU, but I spliced it back with a connector on either end so that the box can now be removed from the cable if need be.

Weird that Hyundai would use a plastic for this box that does not tolerate battery acid. I've never seen anything like this.
 

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#2 ·
Your battery is damaged and leaking and it will eat up the replacement cable too. There should be no acid or acid fumes exiting at the post. This is usually caused by twisting/distortion when torquing down the clamp.

What is really bad is once the acid is out and exposed to air the water slowly evaporates out increasing the strength of the acid. You can use some cheap sudsy ammonia to clean the top of the battery, post and clamps. Rinse with water.
 
G
#5 · (Edited)
It's really time for a whole new way of thinking about car batteries and electrics in general. I like the GM side terminal batteries - many don't - but it will take more than that. Batteries are such an important component but are basically unchanged for 50, 60, 70, ????? years. The top terminals and clamping system have many disadvantages as shown here.

There was a movement some years ago for a 42 volt system that didn't pan out. This would affect wiring in a positive way (no pun intended!) reducing the gauge and weight required, among other things.

More later - your thoughts?
 
#8 · (Edited)
From the serviceability standpoint a cable from the battery to a separate distribution point would isolate acid damage to the cable only.

Re; 42VDC system, I had a problem with the voltage chosen. 24VDC, or even 48VDC would have made more sense. Keep it in multiples of 6 as was done when auto electrics went from 6VDC to 12VDC. Why, you ask?

The voltage of a lead acid battery is 2.1VDC per cell for a total 12.6VDC. Cells could be doubled (as was done when going from 6V system to 12V system) with the same basic battery size and cut the current requirements of the vehicle in half while maintaining the same amount of power, and lowering the wire gauge size, lowering the weight of the wiring harnesses.
 
#20 ·
How about that, someone else who knows the GD series was designed in Germany! Does make it a bit tricky when buying parts because there actually isn't a whole lot of interchangeable parts between an MD (2011-2016) Elantra sedan and a GD (2013-2017) Elantra GT. Have to pay attention when dealing with aftermarket parts. And aftermarket parts folks who think all Elantra's are the same.
 
#23 ·
In 2017, I wanted a “practical”, fun to drive, “sporty” hatchback. That the car would “hate” gas, used 87 regular gas, tires would cost less than $100 each AND last more than 18,000 miles. (For 16 years, I drove 2 BMWs, which I loved, but I was done with spending so much money on cars, expensive parts, premium gas, and $300 to &400 for EACH tire and needed a full set of tires every other year! Super grippy summer tires are part of BMWs awesome handling and feel, but $$$.

Found the GT (GD model) and it meet my new requirements and it was designed in Germany. It was the i30, but for the US and Canada it was the Elantra GT, which meant it had NOTHING in common with the Elantra sedan. All pluses for me. So when looking for replacement parts, you must keep that in mind the Elantra and Elantra GT are totally different models. Some part sites now have the GT listed as a separate model, but others only list Elantra but look for option of hatchback or GT. If a site does not somehow differentiate the models, I do NOT trust that I will get the correct part!! You must find the original EOM part number and either buy the same EOM part or compatible after market part.
 
A
#24 ·
The load and the power source would determine the amperage
The higher voltage for the same load would induce more current to flow
The power source would determine if there is enough charge to provide the required current flow.
It isn't a simple higher voltage would have less amperage

Yeah, not everyone should work with electricity.
 
#25 ·
Higher tolerance to voltage drops. I followed the 36/42 volt system closely in it's development and it looked very promising using a common starter/alternator unit with a very good stop/start ability without the meshing of a pinion gear but it all seemed to fall in a heap but from info I recently received it's back on the drawing board. Lets hope it's successful this time.
 
#27 ·
Meanwhile, back to matters at hand

I am not happy with Hyundai right now. The positive clamp could not be secured tightly. I had to remove 1/8" of material under the box to get the clamp lower on the battery post, remove material from the clamp to increase tightening travel, and bend the tightening clamp to get a secure fit. Thank goodness for Dremel. Since the negative terminal was easily fit snugly, I can't fault the battery manufacturer.

At least I am back in business.
 

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#29 ·
Correct flemmons the entire electrical system needs revision to function correctly. Just like the olden days when we upgraded the old 6 volt car to 12 volts (OMG the headlights now work and it cranks over) we had to change lots. Most found out as things burnt out.
 
G
#30 · (Edited)
You have highlighted a common problem that is often not solved with such skill.

Usual method if too tight is to just beat it with a hammer or whatever tool is handy and "make" it fit.

If too loose, insert a shim, a bent penny, nail, screw, whatever.

This causes all sorts of problems.

Another vote for side terminal batteries.

Glad to see the renewal of interest in higher voltage systems.
 
#31 ·
Only time I let a high school girlfriend borrow my car it came back with a nail driven down between the clamp and battery post right into the top of the battery. Seems she came out from the Dairy Queen and it wouldn't start, so a "good 'ol boy" fixed it for her.

grrr. She was not a girlfriend long after ...
 
#35 ·
Back when side terminal Delco batteries first showed up it was not uncommon to have them develop acid leaks within a year or so. It was a couple of years before I found out what was going on (dad was a GM service manager). Seems the threaded lead terminal was not cast *quite* deep enough and the cable bolt was bottoming out in the terminal. Over time, small cracks would develop in the bottom of the terminal and acid would leak. The "tell" was the white corrosion gathering around the cable ends.

The aftermarket Delco batteries had a "deeper" terminal and were not prone to the issue.
 
G
#37 · (Edited)
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