Right Bob. Just to confirm I saw your related post earlier (and then this one) and have since tried mine a few times today. Absolutely no problems exceeding 3000 rpm in 3rd or 4th.

As I mentioned before I am sure it is an ECU related thing (as I'm sure you now suspect) and the OBD should give the dealership the info they need to resolve it.

Good luck getting it sorted.

Steve.

 

Yesterday we received a call from the dealer service manager. They have been in contact with Hyundai and have been given some information and procedures to follow to see if they can get to the bottom of the problem. Incidently, other than the two times it has occured(on the 2nd and 4th days after delivery), the problem has not surfaced.

I was told today it has occured with two other vehicles (ours been the 3rd). They are making arrangements to pick our vehicle up (135km round trip for them) to run tests and further investigate the issue.

Other than this issue, we are delighted with our new car.

Bob

 

what you have to do...?
2 ways 1st take a layer with you and ask for a new car...
2nd if you want to see if is a ecu fault warm up driving your car for about 20 mins
then turn it off disconnect the battery from ground ... turn on the key push the stop pedal wait for some time turn off and connect again the battery and drive for 30 minutes a little extreme i thing the ecu will be reprogram and the prob will solve...maybe....

 

Update:

Our i30 went in to the dealer today for tests to be run at the direction of Hyundai. Our issue is one of three reported in Australia. They are investigating fuel delivery to the motor with tests being carried out on the fuel line and filter. Various measurements are being taken and sent to Hyundai for comparisons with the other vehicles with the same problem and the base level measurements against vehicles that do not exibit the problem.

I was told there are technicians that have arrived in Australia recently that are on the case.

Bob

 

Bob, thanks for posting. good to know they try. some company's would just say there is no problem and blame your driving. so it is nice to know they care. think it would be a simple problem to solve. you can make diesels go harder just by turning up fuel pressure or changing fuel timming they are different to petrol in the way you can extract more performance. our climate and air quality could be different to were the motors were originally set up. mostly you find these problems from tune setting would show up more as rev's go up. hope they keep the good fuel consumption numbers.
good luck John

 

John and others,

I thought it would be a good idea to post this thread and follow it through to what we hope is a satisfactory conclusion. So far we have been very impressed with the dealers response and the support they have received from Hyundai.

Apart from the two instances on day 2 and day 5, the problem has not surfaced again. In both instances, stopping and switch off the engine then restaring solved the problem.

The dealer service manager said there are lots of electrical sensors and controllers in the fuel delivery line and it is possible one of these malfunctioned. Even though it has not reoccurred, they are not going to dismiss it without a full investigation to find what has caused the problem.

I'll keep everyone updated.

Bob

 

Thank's Bob,
I noticed a few dealer's ( one in sydney, one in country NSW ) Have there test i30 with full rego. was puzzled as normally new car dealers just use trade plates and do not register the test car's. i drove one of those cars and it was a lot faster than the other three that just had trade plates on. just puzzles me as to why they have full rego and don't want to sell them. but waist of time asking salemen as can't beleave half of what they say.
John

 

Hello
I am new to this forum.
When i saw your problem i thought i must register beacuse i have the same problem as U with my I30 CW 1.6 CRDI it have accured 7 times since i bought my car in sweden 20080327 now With 800 Km on the trip. its a comfort plus equipped model with all safety standards as esp etc. The problem is that the turbo do not charge (no boost) and the ecu seems to be in safe mode not allowing the engine to rev more then approx 2900 rpm if I switch it of the turbo charge again and the car is back to normal.There is no engine lamp that lights and there is no error code from the diagnostic socket. The first time it happened I thought it was a one time failure but then it happened six times more my car ist brought back to the dealer and they have been in contact with hyundai sweden and they told me that there is no solution on the problem yet but that they have seen the problem with 2-3 cars in australia. It seems that I would have a new car on the warraty and that would be the best solution for me I think. My errors seem to have a pattern I suggest that U drive your car so that the engine temp goes up to normal an then shut it off for about 30-40 minutes and then restart it and then the turbo is not charging I do not now if its a coincidence or not but my car react in that pattern, besides this problem its a lowely car and im very pleased with it.

Best Regards Stefan

 

Hi Lakes,

RE: Registered Test Cars.

Here in Tassie it is quite common for the Dealers to register a "demo" which they will sell sooner or later at a reduced price. I was in the industry many (15 or so) years ago and I believe they get some sort of stamp duty or other set off with a demo which lets them play with the price.

My 1991 SSS Pulsar was bought as a demo with around 2500 Kms on it and I saved a couple of thousand at the time.

Regards,

Dazz

 

Stefan,

Welcome to the forum. Thanks for the information you have posted. Since Hyundai are saying that it is a problem that has occured on 2-3 cars in Australia, it appears they are suggesting it is the same problem I am having. However, the two times I have had the problem, it does not match your pattern. Both times the car was started from cold on a very warm day (outside temperatures over 40 degrees C).

The investigations in Australia are centred on a fuel line delivery problem. I shall keep posting on here when I have further information.

Bob

 

it looks like australia's owners are not alone encountering this problem: look at this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1r3XfN9dMEk

 

ganassa,

Thanks for that. Very interesting. That is exactly what happens. Intersting that it has only happened twice to me so far.

I shall be drawing this to the attention of my dealer.

Bob

 

Hi All,

This thread gives rise to two thoughts,

1.) It seems that the new Hyundai/Kia 1.6 CRDi or its engine management is not without a few problems. The Kia Cee'd 1.6 CRDi is also exhibiting some odd behaviour for a few of its owners. To find out more try here. ( It is a rather long thread with a lot of advertising and off-topic banter. You have been warned :imsorry: )

Whilst not the same problem (I think ) it could be worth reading up.

I know that I am not the only potential owner waiting to see how well Kia and Hyundai get on "Debugging" this new Diesel. So far I am impressed with their efforts to get things sorted for their customers.

I will look forward to reports of the problem being solved.

2.) From what little I know and you can believe me it is a very little Turbo Diesels all seem to have problems at low revs until the turbo kicks in. Setting up the ECU to handle the transition to running with and without could be quite a challenge. Saab now use a Two stage Turbo the first one to get things moving and then switch to the main one.

I was not real happy with my Mazda3 1.6 Diesel at low revs until I changed the standard Paper Air Filter for one from K&N. ( There is a K&N filter for the i30 1.6 CRDi but it might be a warranty issue in some countries)

I now have a quiet starting, smooth running, easy accelerating machine that is real fun to drive with a few extra horsepower and slightly better fuel consumption. Just by changing the air filter . :grin: Might be worth trying in an i30 too.

 

The-Bun: both cee'd's and i30's unexpected behaviours are related to electronics, so changing air filters will hardly affect them.

 

Bun-Yip, the K&N filter is ok, but for what most people here in Australia use a i30 for it's not worth the money or effort. if you really wanted to test your filter to see if it was restrictive, just fit a vacume gauge between the filter and the motor if the K&N was less restrictive the vacume would drop to a lower reading. But problem with the k&N style filter is it needs oil to work, BUT it flows more air without oil, and i've seen them restrict motors when they had too much oil in them and were dirty, i was watching a dyno test on a race motor and they took the K&N off washed it and dryed it and motor made more HP. just telling you as some people just convince themself things like that work magic.
Cheers mate, hey i'm going to try to get to a Tyre place that sells michelin and see if they have any of the greenX so i can take a good look i'll let you know what i think as i recon i'll get a set but i always like to form my own opinion on things.

 

Originally posted by ganassa@Apr 2 2008, 03:39 PM
The-Bun: both cee'd's and i30's unexpected behaviours are related to electronics, so changing air filters will hardly affect them.

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My Mistake ganassa. I wrongly asssumed that by breaking my post into two areas that no one would assume I was suggesting an Air filter solution to what might be an ECU problem.

 

Sorry Lakes I cannot let this one go. I have no desire to start a flaming war but I do feel that future readers of this thread could finish up with a less than accurate impression from your post. I am wondering if you did not have the time or opportunity to follow the link I provided to K&N's website and read up on their evidence based claims before passing comment.

EDIT: The moderators might like to move this and an edited copy of Lakes reply along with my previous post to a new "K&N filters for the 1.6 HRDi" thread as this does not belong here. fftopic:

Originally posted by Lakes@Apr 2 2008, 08:35 PM
Bun-Yip, the K&N filter is ok, but for what most people here in Australia use a i30 for it's not worth the money or effort. if you really wanted to test your filter to see if it was restrictive, just fit a vacume gauge between the filter and the motor if the K&N was less restrictive the vacume would drop to a lower reading. But problem with the k&N style filter is it  needs oil to work, BUT it flows more air without oil, and i've seen them restrict motors when they had too much oil in them and were dirty, i was watching a dyno test on a race motor and they took the K&N off washed it and dryed it and motor made more HP. just telling you as some people just convince themself things like that work magic.

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You do not think that Ausrtalian i30 HRDi drivers would gain from better low rev performance and a bit more acceleration a few extra Horse Power and the chance of a small improvement in fuel consumption for those without a heavy foot all for the price of the K&N replacement panel filter. ( You may notice that as in my previous post I have not suggested a magical improvement) That seems strange to me. I drive in Europe for six months of the year and in urban and rural Australia for the other six months where I do admit to keeping to the sealed roads most of the time. I have done so for several years. I know I will continue to benefit. As to cost well I think that the K&N replacement panel filter for the i30 could cost (US$65.00) somewhere between $70.00 and $80.00 in Oz substantially more than the cost of a single paper filter. AutObarn, Repco and CoventryAuto are listed as stockists so anyone interested could find out.

With appropriate care it should last the life of the car so the fact that there are no filter replacements cuts what the IT people call the Total Cost of Ownership. I guess that some would indeed conclude that they do not want to pay up front for that whilst others might conclude that it is a reasonable price to pay for what they gain. As for effort well forgive me if I have yet to find it difficult to change a standard air filter. Perhaps the i30 would catch me out then I would have a red face.

It occurs to me that if you did not follow the K&N link you might have thought I was referring to an expensive (CAI) High Performance filter kit and not the standard replacement panel filter. Your comments would make a bit more sense to me if that is so but would be misleading for the casual reader of this thread.

Your experience of observing a K&N filter in the hands of someone who, from your description, appeared to me to have been experimenting with non standard use of a filter could lead to a very unfair view of the capability of such filters. You did not make clear if what you observed was a replacement panel filter or one of the high performance CAI filters designed for the kind of task that might have been sought in that situation.

Yes K&N do use a proprietary oil formulation on the cotton gauze for the filtration effect. In fact that is not a problem as you assert but rather the way they are designed to work and provide effective efficient filtration. K&N specifically advise against over oiling so any problems you observed resulting from over oiling can not be laid at K&N's door. There are videos on K&N web site that will show you how easy it is to do it correctly. After extended use by ordinary motorists (50,000 miles or say 80,000Km on mainly sealed roads) they do need to be washed and re-oiled because at that point they can be expected to begin restricting air flow with the negative effects on performance and fuel consumption you have observed. The drying process should be natural and therefore take some time. ( even in Oz. ) If you stood and watched a filter being washed, dried and reused I would suspect that some method to accelerate drying was used which K&N reject as it will damage the filters ability to clean the air stream. Even drying with an unheated hair dryer is discouraged. K&N strive for high standards of filtration (just like paper filters) but with minimum restrictions to air flow using their oiled cotton gauze.

K&N also reject absolutely the possibility of using the filters without the correct amount of the proprietary oil they supply. If you witnessed someone running an engine without oiling the K&N filter you witnessed someone taking extreme risks that I believe would cost them dearly on the road or racing track. I am just glad that neither of us would have to pick up the bill for what could probably be described as stupidity.

Now for those who want to see huge performance gains simply replacing the panel filter will not do the trick as I am sure you already know. Much more sophisticated and costly Cold Air Induction systems are required as part of the package which we would, I think, agree go beyond the needs of "Ordinary Motorists" such as myself. Some may consider the use of a K&N Panel filter something of a quite small performance upgrade based on the published evidence. I can confirm that subjectively from my own experience.

What I am absolutely clear about is that my low rev turbo diesel experience in stop start traffic has improved tremendously since installing my K&N filter. As for high speed motoring well I have not really put it to the test as I tend by an large to observe speed limits although I have earned a few points that say not perfectly. Acceleration also appears improved but then again my Mazda3 1.6D has always shown a decent mid range spurt when required just like the reviews and owners report for the i30. It seems a characteristic of all turbo diesels in my rather limited experience. Definitive testing with an expensive accelerometer would not be of any practical benefit to me. If I ever get access to a suitable bit of deserted straight road I might try to open her up. That is not likely in the UK with our ever increasing numbers of speed cameras. (4000+ when I last heard) As for renting time on a track. Not likely, my old girl (the car not SHMBO) would be laughed off the place.

So in posting my suggestion to give a K&N filter a go in the i30 HRDi I was sharing experience. It is personal and subjective yes but I also provided that web link to help others to check out the evidence before making up their own minds. The inference that I take from your post that there was no objective benefit and that I was deluding myself is not only wrong but offensive. Based on our rather narrow experiences and research we are still entitled to our differing opinions but please make an effort to compose your posts carefully and so show some respect for the experience of others even when you believe we could be wrong.

To me in my carefully researched but definitely non expert opinion it seems clear that all exhaust powered turbos in diesels cannot deliver good effeciency at low revs before the turbo has sufficient gas flow to kick in. Those who are developing Diesel Hybrid cars are using electric motors until they reach reasonable road speeds when the Turbo Diesel can be started and quickly run up to a speed that harnesses diesel efficiency. That combination is yielding good performance with truly mind blowing fuel economy and a delightful drop in pollution as well.

For me anything that boosts current turbo diesel combustion efficiency and hence performance at low revs at what I personally regard as reasonable cost seems worth trying. So I saved my pennies and tried the K&N replacement filter. The improvements observed by myself and those who know my ride are real to us even if you think us deluded. Until someone shows me evidence to the contrary I will also hope that my improved low rev performance is also lowering the normally higher pollution at low revs.

In a couple of weeks time I will be hitting the road for some extensive travelling. I plan to do some serious fuel consumption tests without the aid of any electronic prompts. Just my normal not so expert style. I will be curious as to what results I get over a 1500 -2000Km round the UK trip. I have no reason to think that evidence will do anything but support my opinion.

I would still suggest that a K&N replacement filter would be worth trying in an i30 HRDi. especially for the urban commuter driver. If you only drive on deserted county roads then maybe not. Such a driver would if like me probably squander the benefits on trying to trim journey times which might not be a good idea on some of the country roads in Oz.. Now all I need is for someone to tell us that the specific filter K&N 33-2380 is not imported to Australia and I will have wasted every-ones time. :whistling:

 

hey Bun Yip will try and PM you m8, nothing wrong with K&N

 

Bun-Yip have not got much time right now m8, could not work out how to PM you so just e-mail me at lakes@unwired.com.au
i'll explain what i mean about fitting a K&N
cheers

 

I must be the 2nd of the 3 owners in Australia to have exactly the same problem.
Has occurred 5 times since I picked up the car in February.
At the 1000km service the dealer said next time it happens drive the car straight to the service centre and leave the engine running.
Service is only open Monday to Friday 8AM to 5pm, and the problem has not occurred since at a convienent time when I dont have to be at work.

 

Tony,

I too want it to occur when it is convenient to drive in and have the dealer look at the issue, but so far it has only occured after hours or on a weekend. I have 2 weeks holidays at the moment and am hoping it occurs when I can drive it to the dealer.

Bob

 

If the car's faulty, it rediculous for the dealer to ask to take it to them whilst the fault is occuring. Just take it to them, and say FIX IT. The fault should be recorded in the ECU anyways.

 

buddyforu and others

If you read back in this thread you will see that the dealer I have is serious about getting the issue sorted as I believe Hyundai are. I take your point about taking it in and having them fix the issue, but it is not that easy as the problem rarely occurs (3 times in 5500k for me).

Apparently no info is stored about the problem in the ECU. I can believe this as no ECU or engine malfunction lights come on when the problem occurs.

I have heard that some ECUs in some makes of cars won't let you over-rev an engine when not moving. For example, the ECU in a Falcon X6 belonging to a friend will not rev over 3000rpm unless the transmission is operating. I checked this out on the i30 and engine revs over 3000rpm without an issueso that discounts some sort of limiter coming into play.

As I find new infoout I shall post further reports. I am hoping others with issues will do likewise.

Bob

 

Originally posted by tjaliwalpa@Apr 14 2008, 12:00 AM
buddyforu and others

If you read back in this thread you will see that the dealer I have is serious about getting the issue sorted as I believe Hyundai are.  I take your point about taking it in and having them fix the issue, but it is not that easy as the problem rarely occurs (3 times in 5500k for me). 

Apparently no info is stored about the problem in the ECU.  I can believe this as no ECU or engine malfunction lights come on when the problem occurs.

I have heard that some ECUs in some makes of cars won't let you over-rev an engine when not moving.  For example, the ECU in a Falcon X6 belonging to a friend will not rev over 3000rpm unless the transmission is operating.  I checked this out on the i30 and engine revs over 3000rpm without an issueso that discounts some sort of limiter coming into play.

As I find new infoout I shall post further reports.  I am hoping others with issues will do likewise.

Bob

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Hi Bob & Tony,
Sorry you two have had this issue, with Diesels they operate from fuel being injected into the combustion chamber to be ignited by compression, the more fuel that is feed in the more HP & TQ they make and the faster they go, they do not use a butterfly to control the amount of air into the motor to control engine speed like a petrol motor uses. this is why you get a slight throttle lag with a diesel, so this problem is a fuel delivery problem. i don't think driving straight to the deler as it happens is going to work if it only happens once in a while. what i think is they probably should change the ECU for a new unit and then see if it happens again. But asa i said it is just what i think, does not mean i'm right, just useing common sense here.
John

 

Good comment John.

I have been thinking along similar lines. Dealer says that Hyundai are looking more at the sensors and valves that control the fuel delivery rather than the ECU itself. My thought is that eventually they will need to begin the process of elimination.

The main reason I will take my i30 if I am within cooee of the dealer when the problem occurs is to enable the deaer to directly put pressure on Hyundai to do something about it. I've already emailed them the link to the Youtube video.

Strange as it may seem, I am not anxious about the problem, just slightly annoyed.

Bob