You could got to Mitsubishi and get SP3 if the still carry it, Penrite FS I've used and also the Valvoline Maxlife.

Just be prepared this box maybe reaching overhaul stage if you're putting additives in to improve it. The O-rings, seals etc internal do go hard and once the pressures start to drop that's when things go wrong and slipping. Valve body can also siffer from wear.

The transaxle is one unit with teh diff inside so the ATF is the diff fluid. ou only need to change the ATF. Also you onl get about 2 Litres from the pan , leaves 4 litres roughly in the torque converter and box.

 

Its getting better every day. I will use the penrite one. we have a brand name nulon here in Aus as well but I would use penrite. Also I am not opening the pan. just suck out a liter and add in a liter from the dip stick point. after a week would do the same for 4 weeks. once all is good and red and I have did some 10k on it then I would look into opening the pan and changing the filter and everything.
thanks

 

Hyundai - 00232-19012

 

Thanks. I am in Australia we dont have this fluid available here.

 

As long as it says SPIII, it'll be fine. The diamond and sk are irrelevant.

The differential is internal to the transmission, so there is no fluid to change.

 

Thanks buddy.

 

I SOLVED a similar issue, with no error codes, just jerky shifts between gears at low speeds as well as high speeds. It turned out the ECU needed to relearn the Throttle Position Sensor (took 5 mins). Look that up on Google or Youtube for your specific car model. (Also look into cleaning the MAF and a thorough throttle body cleaning, removing the first metal piece. It is likely airflow related, so you could further trace things down to cleaning the catalytic converter or O2 sensors). Hope this helps someone.