Just noticed an error....

Guide says the timing belt idler is to the 11 o clock of the timing belt tensioner... it should have said 1 o clock. This is fixed in the updated PDF of the guide below.

 

Good job. That's pretty much how I went about it.

I left the skid shield on. Maybe my 2.5 Ton jack is smaller but I had no trouble supporting the engine with the shield in place.

I left the ground attached to the mount and just swung it out of the way.

For a manual trans, you can do the crank bolt by just having someone apply the foot brake (key on, fifth gear) and just unscrew with a breaker bar on the bolt. Strong foot pressure is needed but it works. Same for installation.

I feel like the whole alignment thing was made to sound over complicated. Align crank to TDC at the beginning using mark on cover and on pulley. Realign to TDC before removing belt using crank gear indicator. Remove belt. Restore cam and crank alignment. Install belt. Verify cam and crank alignment. Rotate crank twice and re-check. Twelve times?? I'd only do that if something looked iffy, but mine went very smoothly and alignment was spot on, so I just buttoned her back up.

Flex-head GearWrench type ratchets really help on those tight fits on belt adjusters and brackets.

Again, great job--very detailed and good pics.

 

Very nice write-up. No useless steps like on HMA's website.

Another tip to removing the crank bolt. If for some reason your have the oilpan off (with the engine supported from the top) you can put a 2x4 piece of wood between the crank and engine block to lock the rotation.

 

I deleted the first PDF posted for you as to only have the updated copy available.

 

well done sir! Well done.

VOTE STICKY!

 

very good DIY, thanks

 

GREAT JOB!

Thank you.

 

Ok. Thanx for the Great PDF but I have a Question.

I get some belt squealing and I want to tighten the Belt. How can I do that? If anyone can take some pics or have diagrams please let me know.

 

Can't download the PDF. Just keeps giving me an error. Need to do this too. Does anyone have it they can repost it? Thanks!

 

ditto here also

 

Seems like the PDF is corrupted.... tried 3 different computers, says "error opening the document"!!!

 

I just tried to re-upload the document as an attachment. It exceeds the forum's file size limit, by a lot, which is likely the problem. I tried to reduce the file size and its still about 3x too big. There are a lot of detailed photos in the PDF.

I may try to upload the photos online, and re-post the info in the DIY as a forum post with the images.

 

MC 2006+ Hyundai Accent Timing Belt and Drive Belt Swap
DIY originally created by James Attfield
Copyright 2011
This media can be shared so long as the original author is acknowledged.

Pre-Amble:
I am not a professional mechanic. You assume all risks associated with doing your own maintenance and cannot hold me liable or responsible in ANY WAY for mistakes or omissions in this guide or errors that occur should you choose to attempt this procedure yourself. This guide is for educational purposes only.

This guide assumes you at least know the basics of auto mechanics (i.e. what a torque wrench is, how to loosen or tighten a bolt or nut, how to use a socket, remove a wheel and jack and support a car safely).
Most importantly: If you screw up; don’t blame me.

Purpose: This guide will demonstrate how to remove and replace all belts (timing belt included) on the MC (model year) 2006+ Hyundai Accent. It does not show how to remove the idlers, tensioners, water pump or cam/crankshaft seals.

Tools:

• At least a 3/8 ratchet. I found having a 1/4 helpful for some tighter spaces.
• Breaker bar and 22MM Deep socket
• Torque Wrench
• A chain wrench OR large straight/flathead screw driver OR Impact Driver (this is for the crankshaft bolt)
• 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm and 16mm sockets and wrenches.
• Car Jack(s), Axel Stand(s) and Wheel Chocks
• Pry bar or long Flathead screwdriver
• White paint pen or white out (non-ribbon kind)

Parts:
You can easily buy the necessary parts for this job at the local Hyundai or KIA dealer. I sourced mine from Autopartsway.ca since it’s was a better price and I have had very good experiences with them.

FYI: The price for parts from the dealer was $150 CAD; aftermarket parts through Autopartsway was $50 plus shipping (I didn’t pay shipping b/c my order was over $75)

Timing Belt
The OEM timing belt on this car was a Gates, part no. 24312-26001 105RU22, but your car may have something else.

I bought an aftermarket Mitsuboshi (MBL) timing belt part no. 24312-26050. From my research it sounds like Mitsuboshi is a decent company as they manufacture OEM belts for other import cars like Honda and Lexus and I think also for Hyundai. The company is Japanese but the belt was marked “made in Thailand”.

The belt should have 105 teeth.

Drive Belts
My original drive belts were both BANDOs and that is the brand I ordered as replacements. BANDO is an OEM supplier for many import cars and has a pretty good reputation. These belts weren’t significantly cheaper or more expensive than other offering. So unless you can’t get these, I’d just stick with them.

Part no. 4PK 815 for the Water Pump/Alternator belt and 4PK 845 for the AC belt.

The power steering/water pump belt on my car was a Dongil “Super Star” and the part I ordered was the same. Although when I ordered I had no way of knowing this. It came in a KIA Motors Genuine Parts package and matches the old belt. Part no. 57231 29100.

NB: for those who are also attempting to replace their water pump, seals and idlers/tensioners, there is a kit on Ebay with all the correct parts made by the OEM manufacturers for around $150. Pretty good deal if you ask me and all the parts are there so you don’t need to go searching each one out individually. Just search "Hyundai Accent Timing belt kit."

New Belts in boxes

New MBL timing belt box

Old Timing Belt


Procedure:
Step 1:
Loosen the wheel lugs; put chocks behind the rear tires and raise the passenger side of the vehicle up about 1-2 feet. Secure a jack stand under passenger side of the vehicle. The driver’s side can be raised up as well but I did not find this necessary.

For maximum safety raise both sides of the car and secure them with jack stands.

Finish removing the passenger side wheel. (The wheels can be placed underneath the car as a safety measure in case the jack stands fail).

Step 2:
Disconnect the negative battery cable by unscrewing the left most nut and bolt in the picture.

Step 3:
Remove the skid shield from the underneath the front end of the vehicle (5 x 12 mm bolts I believe).

Step 4:
Remove the plastic cover in the passenger side wheel well. This partially hides the crankshaft and crankshaft pulley.
(2 x 10 or 12 mm bolts)

Step 5:
Move your jack under the oil pan and raise it so it just touches the pan enough to support it. Do not jack it up any farther yet. Some people may wish to use a flat piece of 2 inch thick wood to distribute the pressure.

Step 6:
Remove the oil cap and unscrew the four bolts that secure the plastic crankcase cover shield; remove the cover shield and replace the oil cap.

Step 7:
Unscrew this grounding cable bolt that is attached to the passenger side engine mount and move it out of the way.

Then remove the various mounting bolts on the passenger side engine mount: The main caveat here is to... MAKE SURE THE ENGINE IS SUPPORTED BEFORE COMPLETING THIS STEP. Once the nuts and bolts are loose and the mounting is removed, the only thing supporting the engine will be the jack placed under the oil pan. Feel free to raise or lower the jack head (within reason) once the mount is removed. This can make accessing the various parts easier. One of the 14mm nuts is partially hidden by the big black washer-like thing in this picture

Step 8:
Remove the power steering reservoir assembly and push it aside. It is removed via 2 x 12mm bolts. I used a 3/8 ratchet and 12 inch extension to make it easier to reach.

Optional: Unplug these two electrical connectors under the power steering reservoir and above the alternator. I found this made life easier when dealing with the alternator mounting assembly (two intersecting bolts), which is also optional to remove.

Step 9:
Remove the main drive belt (drives the water pump, alternator and crankshaft pulley).

Begin by de-tensioning the alternator. This is tricky and was the part out of the whole process that gave me the most trouble. The location of the nut that loosens the pivot of the alternator is in a very tight location and has to be felt with your fingers. It can’t be seen since your jack will be in the way of your head.

If you have a top mounted engine support, this won’t be an issue for you. The area is still tight, however, and is best accessed with a 12mm wrench.
You might need a pipe to fit over the wrench handle in order to get enough torque on the nut. Mine was on VERY tight.

The nut is beside the oil filter on the driver’s side of the alternator. Once the nut is loosened, use a pry bar from underneath vehicle to move the alternator upwards. DO NOT USE THE OIL FILTER AS A LEVER. Removing the oil filter might make this task easier.

Once the alternator is moved the belt will lose tension and can be removed. It is easier to first remove the belt from the alternator pulley and then the water pump and crankshaft pulleys.


Step 10:
Now the power steering/water pump belt needs to be removed. First, loosen the bolt in the picture below. It faces the driver’s side.

Then loosen this bolt (it is accessed through a hole in the pulley) and push the power steering pump towards the engine. Retighten the bolt when it is at its maximum travel towards the engine. Then remove the power steering belt. You may have to loosen the water pump pulley bolts to get the belt out. It was a tight squeeze but I managed without loosening the water pump bolts.

Unless you want an extra hassle when you put everything back together DO NOT REMOVE THE BOLTS FROM THE WATER PUMP PULLEY.

Loosen This Bolt

Push in the direction of the arrow; ignore the pry bar as I took this picture during reassembly and needed to re-tension the pump.


Step 11:
Finally, you need to de-tension the AC/Crankshaft pulley belt. This is achieved by reaching behind the tensioner pulley and turning the bolt located there counter-clockwise until tension is relieved.

It sounds easy but was tricky for me. I wound up removing the entire tensioner assembly as the bolt was stuck and I was just going to wind up breaking it.

Taking the entire assembly off might be easiest for first timers since it gives you a chance to see how the tensioner works. It wasn’t hard to put back on despite being completely removed. Make a note or take a picture of how the pieces go back together.

This idler is located just beneath the air conditioning compressor. Turn this bolt to the counter-clockwise to de-tension the AC belt so it can be removed. If it is stuck, then remove the pulley by undoing the nut in the middle completely and removing the entire assembly.
You may also find that the tensioner assembly bolt is stuck. If so, remove it and clean the threads off with break cleaner or other suitable solvent. Do not lubricate.

 

Step 12:
With all the belts removed it’s time to loosen the crankshaft bolt itself so that the pulley can be removed. This can be done several ways:
Impact Driver: select the correct impact socket and fit it onto your driver. Place over crankshaft bolt and let’er rip!

Screwdriver: remove the flywheel cover and insert a screwdriver between the teeth. Put a breaker bar onto the bolt and remove it. Don’t ask me where the flywheel cover is: I looked but couldn’t find it.

Chain wrench: wrap the pulley with fabric to protect it from marring. Wrap the chain wrench over the pulley/fabric and tighten it appropriately. Place breaker bar with socket over the bolt and carefully loosen. Make sure chain wrench isn’t slipping or excessively marring the pulley. File off and smooth any excessive marring from the pulley before re-installation.

Bump Start: place a breaker bar and socket over the bolt and position the breaker bar against a frame member. Use wire to secure it if necessary. Ensure battery is disconnected. Get your keys and bump the starter (i.e. try to start the car briefly). This will make the crankshaft bolt turn clockwise. If you have the breaker bar positioned correctly against a frame member it shouldn’t move with the crankshaft bolt and will thus loosen it. Be careful doing this. The starter creates a great amount of force.

Crank Shaft Bolt Removed

Crank Shaft Pulley Removed

Crankshaft spacer removed: Behold the elusive crankshaft sprocket!



Step 13:
Remove the upper and lower timing belt covers. The upper belt cover has a metal bar across it which attaches to the plastic crankshaft cover removed earlier. It is attached with the same screws that hold the upper timing belt cover in place.

The upper cover has 4 screws and the lower has 3. Remove the upper first and then the lower. You may need to wiggle the upper cover out of position.

Lower timing belt cover, as indicated by red arrow and lettering

Upper cover is located to the left of the power steering pump pulley

Below is what the camshaft sprocket looks like and what you will see once the upper timing belt cover is removed.

Below is what the crankshaft sprocket looks like and what you will see once the lower timing belt cover is removed.

View of the timing belt tensioner assembly and pulley; the idler, which I do not have a picture of, is to the tensioner’s 1 o’clock position

Step 14:
Reinstall the crankshaft bolt and align the timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and the camshaft sprocket. It is easier to rotate the crankshaft when you remove the spark plugs as the pistons won’t be compressing any air. I didn’t find it overly difficult to turn the crankshaft with the plugs in so I never removed them. It’s up to you.

Alignment is the simplest step in the whole procedure but also the most critical. Align the crankshaft sprocket’s yellow mark/indented arrow with the nipple (no giggling please) and indent on the crankcase. See picture below for clarification.

You may wish to make marks with your white paint marker or white out on the timing belt and sprocket and transfer them over to the new belt. I found this to be more of a chore and to no real advantage. Some people may prefer the added assurance, which I totally understand.

View of a properly aligned sprocket; take your time when doing this and try to view it from different angles to make sure you're dead on. Note that the crankshaft revolves twice for every one revolution of the camshaft. That is, you may have to rotate this sprocket twice to get the cam sprocket into alignment.

Aligning the camshaft is more of the same. Align the hole in the sprocket with the indent on the upper crankcase (see photo below).
You can mark the belt here too if you like and match it to the blue paint on the top of the sprocket.

Tip: I used a finishing nail inserted through the hole and a 6 inch metal ruler to check the alignment. I held the straight edge against the sprocket spoke and inserted the nail through the hole while holding it flush against the straight edge.

I found using the straight edge helps prevent the nail angling too much.
You can shine a light near the camshaft sprocket in order to see behind it and determine where the nail is touching. I used a small flashlight. If you have a bright shop you may not need either the flashlight or the nail and might be able to see the mark through the hole.

Step 15:
De-tension the timing belt by loosening the bolt to the right in this picture with the white mark on it. Then pry the pulley away from the belt (to the left) and retighten the same bolt to hold it in place temporarily. You may need to loosen the tension spring bolt as well (2nd bolt in picture; on the left with the wire spring around it).

Once tension is free you can remove the timing belt.

Note: once tension is relieved you may notice that the crankshaft sprocket has moved counter-clockwise a little. This is normal and not anything to worry about. Once the belt is fully removed you may notice that the belt has moved even farther to the left. Again, don’t worry—yet.

My timing was off by nearly two teeth once the belt was off. My advice here is to attempt to correct the crankshaft as much as possible without over advancing the timing (moving the arrow to the right of the nipple and indent on the crankshaft) before putting the new belt on.

It may take some trial and error, but the key is to retard the timing as little as possible in order to get the belt back on. It probably won’t be perfect until tension is re-applied and you have turned the crankshaft over two to three times.

IMPORTANT: The reason for retarding the timing rather than advancing it is because once tension is re-applied the belt will advance clockwise. If you have advanced the timing already then when you re-tension the belt the sprocket/timing will advance even farther. This is bad.


Step 16:
Since you’re all down in it, now is a good time to check all your pulleys and idlers for good operation before you button everything back up. Check for play (up, down, left, right) in all pulleys—especially the timing belt idlers and water pump.

If play is excessive (more than .5mm or 1/32 of an inch) they should be replaced now or very soon. Spin them and check for whining or scraping (metal on metal noises indicate the bearing’s grease is gone and it will seize shortly under load).

Also check for obvious grease leaks from the idlers themselves. Replace as necessary.

The water pump has a weep hole. If you see coolant pooling here then it’s time to replace it.

Check for oil leaks behind the cam and crank sprockets. If you see oil, then your cam or crank seals are probably failing or have already failed and need to be replaced. This is important because if oil gets onto the timing belt it could slip a tooth (or five or six). It isn’t likely because of the teeth in the belt, but personally that’s not a chance I would take.


Step 17:
Put your new timing belt on. It should be put on in this order as per HMA instructions:

“Install the belt so as not give slack at each center of shaft. Use the following order when installing timing belt.

Crankshaft sprocket (A) →idler pulley (B ) →camshaft sprocket (C) →timing belt tensioner (D).”

As I stated above you may need to trial and error the timing mark on the sprocket a bit here. Ensure that timing is retarded if it must be off in order to get the belt on. Do your best to keep the marks aligned on the crankshaft sprocket when putting the belt on but don’t have an embolism if they are off by as much as two teeth. You should not, however, notice the camshaft sprocket move at all. If it does, then it might be trouble. If you wish, you can hold the camshaft sprocket with a large c-clamp. Remember that when you adjust the crankshaft sprocket it must be done with the belt OFF the crankshaft sprocket; otherwise you are adjusting the timing of not only the crankshaft but also the cam. This screws things up. DON’T DO IT.

Optional: you can use a C-clamp to ensure that the camshaft does not move when putting the new belt on. Don’t make it too tight.


Step 18:
Tension in the timing belt is measured by pushing down on it with light force. Push on the non-tension side of the belt and make sure that the belt meets half of the radius of the tensioner bolt head (half of radius = quarter of bolt head; HMA’s choice of words, not mine). See HMA’s poor quality picture below for reference.

Step 19:
At this point you are ready to test things out. Grab your breaker bar and 22mm socket and turn the engine over a few times VERY SLOWLY. Listen for any tell tale scraping/grinding/clinking noises that could indicate valve/piston contact. If you hear any, STOP, BACK UP and re-set your timing.

If you have the plugs in it is normal to hear air and feel some resistance. Metal to metal noises are the key to watch for here.

After you’ve rotated the engine a few times realign everything and see how it all stacks up. As long as when the crankshaft is aligned the camshaft is also aligned you should be good to go. I rotated the engine about 12 times and checked alignment each time just to be extra **** sure.

Note: if the crankshaft is aligned and the camshaft is off by half a rotation don’t panic; recall that the crankshaft must revolve twice for the camshaft to revolve once. Rotate the crankshaft and align it one more time and then check the cam. If it’s still off then you have a problem.


Step 20:
Button everything back up. No special procedures needed. From here forward everything is just the reverse of removal.

Drive belts should be tensioned approximately 13 to 15/32 of an inch. Check HMA or a Haynes’ manual for exact tension play amounts. Albeit this isn’t critical—if the belts are too loose, you’ll know. Trust me.

See belt routing diagram below if you don’t have one or didn’t draw the routing before belt removal.

Step 21:
Once everything is all put back together you might want to turn the engine over with your breaker bar a few times just to be sure nothing got screwed up during re-installation.

If everything seems okay still, start the car and take it for a test drive (hopefully around the block and not to the junk yard).

 

I see you buy Worldpac stuff aswell, that supplier is great. We deal with them many times a day

Duro

 

As promised, here's the DIY for the Accent's timing belt and drive belts.

Consider this a draft. Let me know if I missed anything or if there are any improvements you'd like to see (typos, grammatical errors included).

If this passes muster, I hope the mods can sticky it. If not, hopefully as it gets closer to a final draft it will be stickied.



EDIT*** I noticed that the file isn't downloading properly; mods, do you know why this might be? I'm getting an "unsupported form of compression error".

Excellent Post Attfield!! The pics are very detailed and easy to understand. I myself have never done a timing belt but I think I will be able to handle it now following your notes. :trophy::trophy::trophy:

 

**** now i see why it costs $600+, i need to get this done but I doubt I could do this myself, great write up tho!

 

Call around. I called 4 local Hyundai dealerships and asked what the cost is to ONLY replace the timing belt, drive belt, p/s/ belt, a/c belt, and any other engine belts.
I was quoted prices ranging from $400-800.
The $400 dealership will get my business. I don't need them to do any of the other 60,000 mile services. I'm competent enough to complete the other services on my own.

 

any saving the photos? Im pretty visual

 

lol. did you see my posts on page 2 of the thread? I extracted the photos from the PDF, uploaded them to imageshack, and reposted the entire DIY with images in 2 posts.

So even though people are having trouble downloading the PDF, at least the info is still here for those that want it.

i need to start gathering parts to do my timing belt. almost at 60k here.

 

I think it took me under 3-hours, jack-to-jack, including accessory belts, and idler & tensioner, and I think the plugs as well. I could do it again in about half that, easy. I was dreading it a bit - I've done DSMs (got to be near an "expert" at those - could do one in just over 1.5hrs - but that's been a few years!) and 1st-gen MR2s and did not relish a tight-space, cramped fix, and was about to have the Dealer do it for a quoted $380 (no-longer have garage-space all the time). But, once I read the PDF, I figured "what the hey", picked a sunny day, and gave it a shot in the driveway.

This is by-far the easiest FWD/mid-engine timing belt-change EVAR. EV. AR. Easier than a 2.2/2.5 Chrysler in a Daytona. Easier than that funky Pontiac 2.0 OHC split-headed thing they put in the Sunbird/Cavalier.

I would let my Brother do one, it's that easy. Doubly-so with this guide. I'm a bit disappointed that the file is "dead" - but I'm glad I got a copy before it was corrupted.

 

I picked this up off ebay, timing belt and 2 new tensioner pulleys for $43 shipped, direct from the korea lol. Theres another listing that includes the water pump but for 60k I don't need all that nonsense.

ACCENT 1.6 DOHC 00-10 TIMING BELT KIT REAL MANUFACTURER FOR GENUINE PARTS! | eBay

I picked up my other belts from rock auto for $24 shipped. Skipped on the power steering belt for the time being as I am debating disabling the system and looping the lines on the rack...

Just need to get the other fluids for the 60k service and I am ready to tear into it. mainly brake fluid and coolant I methinks.

 

I wish I'd done the WP at 60K. 75K on my 2008 and it just started dripping. Now I have to go back in.

 

very informative thread. it should be placed as a sticky under the 3G document library

 

sonofabitch. i guess that job will go twice as quick next time.

 

Did my timing belt job this weekend. Took me about 4-5 hours, not including a 2 hour excursion to go buy a chain wrench and get lunch. I could probably do it much faster next time, some of that time was just figuring out how things come apart. Plus it was my first timing belt change ever on any car so I was taking time to make sure I was doing everything right.

Both my tensioner and idler pulley were leaking fluid/grease, and the idler had some play and a slight grinding noise/feel, so if you do this job, you might as well replace those since you are in there. The kit with the belt and pulleys is only $40 on ebay. The spring on the tensioner may give you some fits putting it back on, its under tension, so you have to do some careful prying to get it to pop back on correctly. Also be careful removing it with the old pulley.

My water pump was not leaking, nor was my camshaft seal. valvecover gasket looks like it was starting to seep just slightly at the rear. I guess that will need to be changed out next time, or maybe sooner. The upper timing belt cover comes off real easy, 4 bolts, nothing in the way so its easy to inspect at any time. Pretty sure you can get a good look at the waterpump with it off too.

I took a few notes of some differences I had from the DIY above. Like the 1 bolt on the motor mount noted as 16mm, mine was 17mm, the lower timing belt cover had 5 bolts on mine (not 3), one being behind the water pump pulley, that was interesting to get out. Once I had it off, I actually cut the hole for the bolt off the cover, to make it easier to get the cover back on behind the pulley (very tight fit) and there was no way in **** I was going to be able to get the bolt back on behind the pulley. The upper cover overlaps the lower cover anyways, and when all the bolts are tightened, everything is nice and snug.

You can see the bolt here.

Strangely enough the 2 parts of the job that took me the most time (aside from running out to get a tool), were dealing with getting the new tensioner pulley installed, and fussing with that lower timing belt cover, lol.

You probably are going to want to use a chain wrench or something similar. Because you do need to use it again to keep the crank from turning when you are re-assembling and need to actually tighten the crank bolt.

Tip for the Belt: I made 3 marks with white-out on the crank pulley and a matching marks on the old belt, and 3 marks on the cam pulley and on the old belt. Once the belt was off, I transferred the marks to the new belt, ensuring during assembly I was getting the correct # of teeth on the belt between each of the pulleys. This makes sure you arent off a tooth or something, which would be bad. When I put the belt on and released the tensioner, all my timing marks matched up perfectly. I must have checked them about 5 times just to make sure.

I think thats what Attfield was trying to do but I dont understand all his markings around the tensioner and idler pulleys.....maybe thats after the belt was rotated a few times?

 

one being behind the water pump pulley, that was interesting to get out. Once I had it off, I actually cut the hole for the bolt off the cover, to make it easier to get the cover back on behind the pulley (very tight fit)
We just remove the 4 bolt holding pulley to water pump nose and be done with it.. no cutting required, and all the bolts get put back

You can see the bolt here.

OOOPs --

1 1/2 hr on a rack with power tools...

 

For a first time, 5 hrs is not bad for a weekend warrior and it looks like you got everything else right (except for the 1 bolt...lol). I haven't done mine yet not due till maybe next summer but I've already dedicated a whole day to it!!!

BTW - good job!!!

 

Ok. Later on in the first week after the belt change, I was getting some whining from the belts when the car was hot. It did not do it the first few days I don't think, I noticed it like 5 days later when I got home from work. I checked the tension on the alternator/wp and A/C belts, basically loosened them, and incrementally tightened them until they stopped slipping/squealing to make sure they weren't too tight. Still have the whine.

I was pretty sure I got the tension right on the timing belt, I released the tensioner to tension the belt, checked the tension per HMA Service instructions (visually, press the belt and inspect how it deflects in relation to that bolt) and everything seemed in order. I also sort of assumed since the tensioner was spring loaded, it roughly puts the correct tension on the belt anyways. tightened up the tensioner bolts and reassembled.

I picked up a tension gauge this week and I guess I need to take everything apart and double check everything. But from what I am finding through google, sometimes different brands of belts and tensioners just make noise. I know the new pulleys are GMB, I dont remember off hand what the belt is but I guess I will see when things are apart again. supposedly all OEM parts:

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