They replace thermostat.. we done a pile of them already (sales cars)

 

Well, if its defective and remains shut, you get overheating and possibly blown engine at worse. Or nothing will happen till it gets replaced at best. I will get it replaced asap though. Watch you temp gauge until then.

 

Certain 2017MY Elantra vehicles may exhibit an illuminated Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) with the
following diagnostic trouble code(s):
 P0128 : Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Thermostat below thermostat regulating temperature)
This condition may be cause by the rubber valve inside the thermostat not closing properly. This
bulletin provides the procedure to replace the thermostat assembly to correct this condition.
Thermostats must be replaced on all affected vehicles, even if they do not exhibit DTC P0128.

Should the thermostat be defective, it will be stuck open rather than stuck closed. So there is no risk of engine overheating. The engine will take longer to reach normal temperature.

 

That's what I was thinking. My second thought was > why aren't you posting more often? Lurking isn't cool, man! I'm kidding.

 

A new electronically controlled thermostat decreases pumping energy and allows the thermostat to open at a higher temperature.

 

Original O2 sensor just contained the zirconia element that was worthless until the temperature exceeded 350*F, even though it had 1200-1500 degrees exhaust gas temperature, added about a dimes worth of a nichrome heater coil to it to get into closed loop faster that doubled the price of this O2 sensor. Course if the heater element burnt open, would get a code and you were out around 60 bucks.

GM came out with a so-called electronically controlled thermostat, are they using a servo motor? No, just the same hundred year old wax filled thermostat with a 20 watt heater element added to it. When you hit the gas, would apply a voltage to this heater element in a very weak attempt to fool the thermostat into thinking the coolant was hotter so it would open this valve a tad bit quicker to handle the additional heat load when pouring more gas into the engine. But still was not a fail safe thermostat, but adding this heater element, price tag was more than tripled. More BS from the automotive manufactures to screw the consumer even more!

Closest thing I can find for an Elantra 2.0L thermostat is this one from a 2014 model.

Sure looks conventional to me, so exactly what is the 2017 model using? And is it really electronically controlled? What appears to be a thermostat housing is directly under the alternator on my 2017 Elantra 2.0L engine, sure don't see any wires going to it, and my x-ray vision is poor this morning so can't see what's inside of it. But this is Hyundai's worry, not mine.

Sure living in a world with BS, in central Wisconsin even on New Year's day, can get winds from the SW with temperatures in the 60's, but still only can get this stupid winter gas and terrible fuel economy with it. Heavily oxygenated to supposedly decrease the warm up time to ease emissions, but with zero proof on this. EPA does not have to provide any proof. Fuel economy can drop as much as 25%, but the price at the pumps is still the same if not even more than summer gas. With my Cruze, instead of getting 40 mpg, more like 30 mpg. Will find very quickly how the Elantra does.

This months SAE Engineering is on cutting green house gases with opinions from the experts. Really doesn't take any brains to solve this, just reduce the carbon, low heating value, gums up the engine, and fouls spark plugs. Like a 125 year old problem. Crap in, crap out.

 

I doubt that any car manufacturer uses fail safe thermostat as oem part.

Those fail safe stat by motorad seems to give more trouble than benefit. Good idea, but seems to fail more often than the regular one. I use the regular ones.

 

hrmmm.. I just checked Transport Canadas website, and nothing about the thermostat there. There is a recall for airbags for FOUR cars though. Is there another area I can search for recalls?

 

Post up what you have, maybe I can translate it to USA recalls


Incoming pics of '17 thermostats coming later

 

This is what a 2017 thermostat looks like :wink:

 

Legit recall, USA? I went to myhyundai, put in VIN. All I got was the door handle TSB. Took care of it myself.

Next oil change, get my writer to put it on work order. My tech can get credit for the fix and not have to mess with doing it. He's a great guy. The least I can do for him.

 

Take care of your tech too,, he only collect 0.3hr pay for the recall,, by the time I get taxed out / deductions, I think I might get $4 after tax..

 

Just in case, let me repeat/clarify: I'm Canadian. But my Elantra is from the Ulsan plant.

I don't think I've noticed any issues with the engine warming up quickly, so maybe I'm not seeing any actual symptoms yet.

What I *have* noticed is sometimes the area under the steering column, to the right a bit (like, under where I'd imagine the stereo would be) gets really hot. For no real discernable reason.

But the big issue is that on the coldest setting (before hitting the Max A/C setting), I will get warm or hot air coming from the vents. And I'm pretty sure it's not latent heat from the sun or anything. This is usually in the front or front/floor setting. If I set it to the windshield/floor setting, and then back to front vents, it's fine again and doesn't heat up (at least for awhile). Although, I do think pushing the windshield/floor setting kicks in the A/C even though the A/C light never lights up. But I think that was a workaround that worked for me before, too - hitting the A/C and then turning it off quickly.

So my question is, could my heating air/vent problem be related to the thermostat at all? From what I'm hearing, this is an engine thermostat issue, not a heating/cooling cabin air issue? I can't help but wonder if it could be a side effect, though. In any case, I'm pretty sure I do have an issue with the cabin air heating kicking in for no reason.

 

Sounds like a heater blend door actuator problem.

 

Thank you for posting this, looks exactly like the one I am finding on my Limited USA model. Didn't spot that two terminal connector at first, is located at the bottom of the thermostat housing, and I gather that housing is replaced with the thermostat. And because it is, would put the cost of this part in the 50+ buck range.

Sure looks like a conventional wax bellows thermostat and with that casting sticking out the side of that spring, looks like a fail safe. So what is that connector for? Two wires, on other similar thermostats of this type, is for a heater. What I don't like to see this that O'ring type gasket, turns into powder over time and leaks, use to use a gasket for these with gasket maker on it, would last forever.

Takes me at least 0.3 hours to find my car keys, have to drain the radiator, and preferably the block as well, make sure your dog is no where near around, they like that taste of the coolant, no good for them or yourself for this matter, causes kidney damage. Been years before I could even come close to removing the block drains, even on my 454 engine in my motorhome, mounted right behind the motor mounts, no way to get those out. Can barely get them out on my 305 in my boat, have to or next spring will have a cracked block, more than a two buck repair. Was on a boating site where many others didn't know this, had to get off that board.

So suspecting some spillage by removing this thermostat. Looks like the alternator has to be removed first even to get at it. But not as bad as a 86 Honda Civic I had, had to remove half the engine to get at that thing, wasn't the best way to spend a Saturday.

Feel 0.3 hours is about right to change this thermostat, but this is with a dry block sitting on your kitchen table. Watch out for those AC lines, one slip of the wrench will give you even more problems.

Really liked see a radiator cap again, all neoprene hoses, and a pressure free overflow reservoir. A lot of this new stuff is using plastic hoses, recovery tank or whatever they call this thing, sees the same pressure as the rest of the system and upped from 15 psi to 25 psi. And have tossed plastic food containers much stronger than this POS plastic they are putting on these things.

Is this thermostat covered under that 10 year warranty?

 

Does the DIC light up and sound an alarm if in the overheat state?

 

Just received this from a BlueLink Notice.

Campaigns for your vehicle - 2017 ELANTRA LIMITED



TLL
ELANTRA THERMOSTAT REPLACE(16-01-034-2) Service Aug 04, 2016 TNN ELANTRA DOOR HANDLES FASTENER (16-01-036 Service Aug 17, 2016

With no further instructions, a bit confusing.

 

You likely have 2 open recall... show up at dealer for next oil change when you time to wait a bit, or just drop it off night before so coolant cold when tech get car for thermostat change..

Door handle bolt been cover in the AD Elantra forum already

 

After having a second cup of coffee, emailed my dealer, see what he says. Pulled out my IR tester, everything looks normal, and zero leaks.

Door handles? Inside or outside, all work fine.

 

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/2017-elantra/478241-tsb-service-campaigns-2017-a-5.html#post4566362

 

An electrically assisted (also called “map-controlled”) thermostat provides broader and faster operation than traditional thermostats. In addition to the mechanical function of the wax element, electrically assisted thermostats incorporate an electric heater within the sensor. This heater is controlled by the vehicle’s ECU, which receives information on the speed and load conditions of the engine. It uses this information to regulate the temperature of the coolant. A data set, or “map,” is stored within the ECU to govern when and how heat is added to ensure optimum engine performance.

How an electrically assisted thermostat works-

In standard operation, an electrically assisted thermostat functions in the same manner as a conventional thermostat — just at a higher engine temperature. Coolant flows around the wax of the thermal expansion element. As the temperature rises, the expansion material melts, increasing in size and moving a piston, which in turn increases the flow volume of the coolant. If the temperature drops, a spring pushes the piston back to its starting position, reducing the flow rate of the coolant or closing the coolant circuit altogether.

Under partial load conditions (city driving), the thermostat stabilizes the engine at a higher temperature by staying closed longer to obtain benefits such good power response, lower emissions and reduced friction (with a corresponding reduction in fuel consumption).

When under a sudden, heavy load, an additional heat source comes into play with the map-controlled thermostat. Once the conditions of the stored operating map have been fulfilled, a heating resistor integrated in the expansion material is enabled by the engine management system. This additional heat source allows the wax to expand quicker, opening the thermostat fully regardless of actual coolant temperature, so the coolant flow is increased; immediately allowing the engine to operate within the optimum temperature range without danger of overheating.

Since the electric thermostat is controlled by the engine computer and mapped to driving conditions, when the sudden heavy demand is removed, the current is shut off to the electric heating unit and the thermostat again acts like the traditional wax unit with a fully open temperature of approximately 230 degrees Fahrenheit. These actions can happen many times a day, especially if you were driving up and down in the mountains where the engine and cooling system would experience heavy demand going up a grade then may cool as much as 30-50 degrees Fahrenheit going down the other side. The beauty of this concept and design is that it operates completely unnoticed by the vehicle operator and continues over the life of the thermostat with no required service.

The Electrically Assisted Thermostat: A Smarter Way To Greater Engine Efficiency -

 

Sure a complex explanation for a heater assisted thermostat, hit the gas, response time for the thermostat is slow because engine head temperature will increase with more gas. Heater accelerates the opening of the thermostat in anticipation. But are telling me its a heater, these been around for awhile.

And a hot head would increase the probability of detonation.

Could monitor the engine temperature with a scanner, digital with 1*F resolution, not easy to see that on a very coarse analog temperature gauge, but kind of sure they are trying to maintain 195*F.

But sure doesn't answer the question why it has to be replaced, open or shorted heater element? Wax leaking out? Ha, just heard Samsung is recalling 2.5 million Galaxy S7's, claim the battery is overheating and has tendency to even start on fire. Internal battery shorts are rare, unless they made the dang things so thin, something inside is shorting out. Or maybe that super thing case is shorting the battery out. Yes, you can start a fire even with an AAA battery by shorting it out. Ha, this should teach them for trying to copy Apple.

But what's the problem with the Hyundai thermostat, mine is working perfectly, least so far. Dealer already knows I change my own engine oil, and with FAA experience, sure know how to document. Gave me a good deal on filters and already purchased that filter socket, thanks to the help on this board. If I have to get it done, will be checked and doubled checked.

 

Hyundai: "A new electronically controlled thermostat decreases pumping energy and allows the thermostat to open at a higher temperature."

The idea is that the heater can melt the thermostat's wax for the thermostat to start opening and flow coolant at a lower engine temperature, before coolant has time to warm up enough which reduces initial pumping resistance. This also allows using a hotter thermostat to achieve and maintain a more efficient coolant temperature.

 

Engine warmup time is yet another factor, no complaints here on my Limited, darn near twice as fast to reach operating temperature than what my Cruze was with that tiny 1.4L engine. Even fuel economy is far better with this larger displacement engine.

Warm up time is great in this Elantra, operating temperature is also stable, so just to learn what in the heck is wrong with it.

For a period of time to save adding a temperature sensor to the center of the radiator tank, were using the engine temperature sensor for this. Really dumb, a nominal operating temperature at 195*F, wouldn't kick on the fans, (FWD) until the coolant temperature reached 220*F and would even raise the temperature up to 235*F, then shut off again a 195*F. This resulted in a 40*F thermal cycling range that played heck on an aluminum head with seven times the expansion rate of the cast iron block it was sitting on. More man made problems that were never problems before.

Coolant pumps are of the centrifugal type in a closed loop system, really not any pressure buildup with either the inlet or outlet blocked, they cavitate.

 

I logged into the MyHyundai site and typed in my VIN under the recall section and it showed nothing. Is this recall specific to a certain model or VIN range?

 

Talked to my service manager on this issue, he is a good honest kid.

Told him about this BlueLink notice, asked what the problem was with the thermostat, told him mine was perfect, fast warmup time, very stable at 195*F. Asked if I was getting any check engine codes, said none. He said he didn't have one service complaint about this thermostat, don't worry about it.

Also mentioned tightening those four door clip screws, your good to go.

Now I have to find something else to worry about.

 

Now I have to find something else to worry about.

Nick, I'm still waiting for you to solve what that "1% assembled with parts from China," is... uzzled: (maybe the thermostat o-ring?) :grin:

 

Yeah, its perfect till it fails on you. There is a reason why they put it up for a recall. There is no excuse in ignoring it. Particularly on crucial part as a thermostat. Good luck on that.

 

Then I should be equally concerned about the thermostats in my three other vehicles, also with my kid's thermostats, they depend upon me as well for their out of warranty service.

From all appearance, the Hyundai appears to be a fail safe thermostat, no concerns about cracking the head with an overheated engine, will get me home.

One thermostat I am really concerned about is the one that keeps my home warm in our cold winters. Had a mercury wetted contact Honeywell for years, positively bullet proof, but our wonderful EPA banned these. Now just buying crap made in China, do modify them with better relays, and keep spares.

Cruze owners, many had problems with their thermostats, overheated engines, GM is using too many different Chinese vendors. I also carry towing insurance, but because I do, never had to use it.

 

If your VIN falls under the recall, I'd make sure to get it done. Not sure if there's any "rush", but it looks like only certain VINs are affected by this recall, which makes me think "they know something" is up. Might be minor, but still.

 

Service advisor at my dealership said that Hyundai is really slow at posting those on the myHyundai site. Said he was powerless to explain why.

 

Hyundai is in fact very secretive... You can't even look up Hyundai oem parts online for recent models. Maybe if you were on the South Korean web with a good understanding of their language.