I think I've seen that message before, though I never had to go through such lengths. In my case, my phone had to be unlocked in order for the digital key to register and start the car(I could turn that feature off, but didn't want my NFC constantly broadcasting while the phone screen is off)

 

The issue is not related to the digital key registration or the phone being locked. The digital key was used to unlock the car and the phone was placed in the charging pad. It recognized the digital key. The vehicle's electronics literally thought it was in neutral. The vehicle physically was not in neutral. This is a firmware bug perhaps related to the digital key but I doubt it is related to the digital key. I disconnected Bluetooth, shut the phone, attempted to start with the fob and no dice. The electronics somehow thought it was in neutral which is why it would not start the engine. It wanted the transmission in P, which of course it was already in. If I had known that the battery is in the trunk area, I would have disconnected the battery and on my way.

 

If I had known that the battery is in the trunk area, I would have disconnected the battery and on my way.

Aside from the manual, trunk should always be the second place to look(about 5% of the cars I've had come across my shop have the 12v located in trunk). As far as the "not in park" message, I have received it with the digital key, usually a follow-up message for why it failed to start. However I quickly realized my phone had to be unlocked while it was docking to the charging pad for the car to register the dKey and start. If the error persists, I'd consider documenting it and bring the car to Hyundai service

 

Again, phone was not locked. And as I stated, the secondary message said the vehicle was in N and needed to be in P and continued to show a flashing P.

These vehicles have a number of firmware issues. I get all types of false random messages related to non-working turn signals, backup sensors, hands off the steering wheel and I had a previous Santa Fe PHEV that would not indicate a switch of engine functions (HEV, EV, auto, etc.), would not indicate the fuel being released and would randomly show a near full battery after my 140 miles round trip commute. That vehicle required a whole new cluster. Dealer took the vehicle back in exchange for the one I have now. Costed me qbout $1100 to get rid of that lemon.

 

These vehicles have a number of firmware issues. I get all types of false random messages related to non-working turn signals, backup sensors, hands off the steering wheel

This does not say that these false messages happen all at once. It clearly says random messages. The "Christmas tree" expression refers to numerous indicators on the dashboard being displayed or lite up all at once. But in my statement, random meaning that they are occurring without a definite pattern. Of course, in electronics, nothing is really random. Those false indicators are generated by errand code (e.g. firmware/software bug).

Judging by your response, I guess you knew that, and everything there is to know about this car

The designers of this car clearly don't know everything about this car or there wouldn't be as many bugs. But based on your continued trolling of this thread, you want to assert your supremacy as a SME. Thank you for your expertise.

 

Having worked at a body shop, I can say that 99% of the computer gremlins people experience is due to a poor connection on the 12v, or a weak battery. I cant speak for your specific encounters, but perhaps you should ask your dealer if that car was involved in a collision before being sold as new(they may deny it)? Shipping accidents are insanely common; some dealers try to get away with spending as little as possible in repairs before selling the car new

 

Being an Electrical Engineer for 30 years I can assure you the so called gremlins are software/firmware bugs.

 

Not bugs - undocumented features, if you're a programmer

 

I'm not looking to enter a pissing match, I'm just trying to provide feedback since your encounter seems highly unusual. All's I know is that whenever a car dash lights up like a Christmas tree, it's because the computers all bugged out at some point(pointing to an issue w/ the 12v delivery). Perhaps it's worth a reflash, in your case.

 

Nobody said anything was lighting up like a Christmas tree. The post was intended to be informational and you have hijacked it. And now you are being combative. I did not seek advise. I merely documented an issue. I can run circles around most of the "experts" at the dealer so I do not need their advise nor yours. They know nothing about these advanced vehicles. I keep trying to ensure that only facts are here as to not mislead someone who runs into this thread. You don't need to keep responding.

 

Nobody said anything was lighting up like a Christmas tree. The post was intended to be informational and you have hijacked it.

I get all types of false random messages related to non-working turn signals, backup sensors, hands off the steering wheel

Forget I said anything. I genuinely thought you were trying to troubleshoot a problem. The "Christmas tree" expression was in response to the "false random messages", which is bloody common in newer vehicles, specially when the 12v battery is on its way out. Judging by your response, I guess you knew that, and everything there is to know about this car

 

There is a TSB which I believe addresses this issue. TSB 22-AT-001H.

 

There is a TSB which I believe addresses this issue. TSB 22-AT-001H.

Thank you for this. Really appreciate your help. Four questions: 1. As a user, a week ago it was stuck in Neutral and then finally went into park then drive, but there was a large "bang" noice which sounded like the brakes being wrenched open. It was loud and the car should a bit. Any idea what that was? 2. What should we NOT do to avoid this happening. Is it correct to release the electronic brake when it is on before moving out of park? Is there any other thing we should be doing to avoid this long term? 3. When we call the dealer, what is the key thing we should describe other than "stuck in neutral unless power was disconnect"? 4. Is pulling the 10A fuse as effective as pulling off the power from the trunk battery?

 

Thank you to the post by SparkE about removing the EShifter fuse and seating it back down. It corrected a problem I had where I was stuck in Neutral. Love my Santa Fe PHEV. This is the only problem I have had with it. I put over 1200 miles on it before my first fill and it still had 4 1/2 gal left or 1/3 of a tank. And that was not all city driving.

 

I can confirm that removing this fuse in the Tucson PHEV worked as well and it seems to be the same issue with it.

 

Yesterday when I entered the car and started it with the digital key, it would not actually start. It kept giving me a message that I needed to switch from N to P to start the car. The problem is that it was already in park. It kept flashing P and when the push to start button was pressed it would display to put the vehicle in P to Start. I tried everything I could to try to get in gear. It wouldn't even shut the car off entirely. I thought about disconnecting the battery but to my surprise the battery is nowhere to be found in the engine compartment. I then thought about pulling the fuse for the e shifter. The problem is this is part of an integrated fuse block. If it happens to you, there is a smaller 10 A fuse that is also labeled e shifter. And the battery is actually in a plastic compartment in the trunk area next to the jack. I also called blue link and the local dealer. Neither was helpful in helping diagnose or resolve the problem. Both said that they never heard of the issue. The only offer from blue link was to tow it to the same local dealer I had called. When I pulled the small 10 Amp fuse, lights for the reverse sensors malfunctioning came on. I replaced the fuse and the car was then able to switch to gear as normal.

I had the exact same problem today - removed the negative battery cable. Then hooked up the battery cable and the problem went away. Thank you for posting and saving my butt today! Bruce

 

Yesterday when I entered the car and started it with the digital key, it would not actually start. It kept giving me a message that I needed to switch from N to P to start the car. The problem is that it was already in park. It kept flashing P and when the push to start button was pressed it would display to put the vehicle in P to Start. I tried everything I could to try to get in gear. It wouldn't even shut the car off entirely.

I thought about disconnecting the battery but to my surprise the battery is nowhere to be found in the engine compartment.

I then thought about pulling the fuse for the e shifter. The problem is this is part of an integrated fuse block. If it happens to you, there is a smaller 10 A fuse that is also labeled e shifter. And the battery is actually in a plastic compartment in the trunk area next to the jack.

I also called blue link and the local dealer. Neither was helpful in helping diagnose or resolve the problem. Both said that they never heard of the issue. The only offer from blue link was to tow it to the same local dealer I had called.

When I pulled the small 10 Amp fuse, lights for the reverse sensors malfunctioning came on. I replaced the fuse and the car was then able to switch to gear as normal.

Today in a car park in Harrogate, my car (Tucson Ultimate PHEV) was stuck in Drive. Engine was off but all the electrics were on and I couldn't start up. Getting the 'place in P' to start. Couldn't select P. Phoned local Hyundai Dealer, he didn't have a Scooby Doo what was wrong. It was finding your comment above about the 10amp fuse which rescued me. Under the bonnet, popped it out and pushed back in and bingo, worked a treat. (Ctrl-Alt-Delete for cars). Thank you SparkE. You saved the day. Best regards - A happy Brit.

 

Same vehicle type - same problem. Didn't have time to try the fuse removal trick, so left the car where it was. Unlocked of course because the car would not shut downand therefore the electronic lock would not work. Came back next morning to find the 12v battery was flat. Tailgate of course would not open! Managed to remove the battery by climbing through the rear seats. While it was recharging, I removed and replaced all the (3) fuses labelled eShifter - all were sound and clean. I did notice though, that the Negative terminal on the battery was showing signs of corrosion. Made sure both terminals were clean before replacing the charged battery. Car is now back on the road again. Thanks for the helpful pointers in the posts on this forum. Without them I'd have had a real problem as the car was stuck in a position where a flat loader could not have accessed it to take it to the dealer.

 

There is a thread in this forum entitled "Stuck in Neutral" where numerous owners document this same problem with the electronic shifter in PHEV Hyundais. It also explains how to remove/reinstall the e-shifter fuse or disconnect/reconnect the 12 volt battery.
This problem with the e-shifter in plug-in hybrids is well documented, but Hyundai has not recognized it or addressed it. It has happened to me once. Fixed it by removing/reinstalling the fuse. Next time it happens, I will trade in the car and swear off Hyundais.

 

2022 SF PHEV, had the problem once, had read this forum and removed and reinstalled fuse and it ran right again. Was planning a road trip and decided to replace the stock battery and it locked in neutral and hasn't reoccured.

Now I don't know it it was actually the battery OR the connections at were corrected by removing and replacing the battery, but at this point it doesn't matter it is just running right.

50k miles on the clock so far.the only issue we have had is the invertor overheating, which locks the mode in HEV only until it's cooled down (usually overnight). Yes I've had the coolant flushed and changed under the recall, still happening.