The switch is what is known as a DPST switch -- two poles, quite separate -- essentially, two switches side by side. So apart from an adjustment issue which would also clobber your brake lights, it IS possible for the 'other' side of the switch to fail, giving you functional lights but no signal to the "ATM Key Lock Control Module".

You need to measure the output at the switch.

Hook a meter to ground and then pick up the pin or wire on the switch with a blue wire with black stripe (you may also find a brown wire attached at the same point -- that would work, too). That's the 'signal' wire (vs. the gray wire with black stripe which is used for the lights and ESC circuits). Releasing the pedal should get you battery voltage on that wire. Pressing it should get you no voltage there.

 

Do you think a failed brake switch would cause the shift lock override not to work? I was thinking something inside the shifter unit itself? Something like a shifter solenoid?

 

Just to add, the car does start without issue.

 

Are you saying you cannot use your key and manually override the lockout inhibitor either?

 

Yes. Using the manual shifter release button does not release the shifter from park.

 

If the manual override doesn't work it's probably the infamous shifter stuck problem with the selector mechanism on top of tranny jamming up. There a thread on here: http://www.hyundai-forums.com/cm-2007-2012-santa-fe/335114-shifter-gear-select-hard-move.html

But just want to confirm that you removed the cap and pushed in the hole with a screwdriver or key. The manual override is not a button it a cover that gains you access...

Are you able to move the shifter to the right? out of the "home" position and ready to slide down? If so that means the shift release is working.

 

Just tried and yes that's correct. I can move it out of the home position to the far right but it won't slide downward.

 

Well then I would look here: http://www.hyundai-forums.com/cm-2007-2012-santa-fe/335114-shifter-gear-select-hard-move.html

 

I did have a look but am a bit confused. Do I pop off the bracket and just spray in some silicone lubricant? Is there a TSB for this?

 

Wow

 

It's weird I never experienced any stiffness at all. It just all of a sudden stopped moving . The shift release is not working when the brake pedal is depressed. Can you guys confirm on your Santa Fe's? When the car is turned on and in park, when the brake is depressed there's a noise in the shifter area to release the shifter?

 

It does make a bit of noise on mine but if that's your issue you would be able to move the shifter with the manual release override ... it's meant for this exact purpose...

 

Good point. Wish I could find more detailed info and procedure on lubricating that shaft. Debating removing the center console to see if the cable moves freely and disconnecting the shift assembly and seeing if it moves freely.

 

Was hard to find, but more info here:

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/cm-2007-2012-santa-fe/538033-possible-inhibitor-switch-issue.html

 

Thanks dude. I'm going to check out that shaft tomorrow. I'm hoping that's the issue.

 

As explained above, half the switch can inhibit shifter operation without impacting the brakes at all. So yes, there is at least some possibility you have a switch issue.

Your automatic doesn't require the brake to be pressed to start, so no surprise there.

 

Couldn't sleep so I decided to give this a go with my lady. So the shift lock release does in fact work. The shift lever will go to the far end of P but won't go down. I ripped out the battery and tray and see the shifter cable. I turned the nut (1311FA), while my partner sat in the drivers seat and the shifter went down to D. The only way to get the shifter to move back to P, was to turn the nut (1311FA) in the opposite direction. Now what? My nut is super rusted, kind of worried it'll snap.

And... this is where I'm at currently lol. @canderson are you talking about the inhibiter switch or brake switch?

 

If I'm following all of this correctly, you may have the classic bound shaft in the top of the tranny. It's directly below your rusty nut. We have several threads on that problem here.

And earlier, I was referring to half of the brake switch, though it doesn't sound like that's going to be your issue.

Here's one of the oldest >> https://www.tomtomforums.com/threads/touch-screen-alignment-calibration.31014
Here's a somewhat newer one that points to that one as well >> http://www.hyundai-forums.com/cm-2007-2012-santa-fe/538033-possible-inhibitor-switch-issue.html

 

After I replaced mine and cleaned up the mess, the keyed stud on the end of the shift cable still rotated stiffly even after lubing and working it back and forth. I probably should have replaced the cable but I did not feel like pulling the console apart. That stud has to rotate as the bellcrank rotates. I think that is why it works O K for weeks and then I get a rare no start in park. A slam of the shifter into park always fixes it for a long time. I was very careful when I adjusted the range switch. That rusty nut on the tranny selector shaft really had me worried. If that shaft broke.........I don't even want to think about how much PB Blaster and the amount of torque it took to break it loose.

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Most likely you stretched your cable before hand. Mine was silky smooth shifting and then just seized up.

 

Still haven't attempted the nut yet. Went and got a bunch of tools. Going to wire brush the nut and threads, let the penetrant soak for a day or so and then I'll attempt the nut. I MIGHT heat the nut before hand, still debating it. Hyundai can't order the nut for me so I might get a new one from a fastener company. I also ordered a new inhibitor switch since it's cheap and since this one has 200k+ km. Best bet, the nut comes off, I unbend the shaft and I'm good to go! Worst case it needs a tranny or internal tranny work = $$$$

 

I'm probably going to take the shifter console apart to unhook the cable. See if it moves freely without the cable. Anyone have a guide?

 

UPDATE: removed cable from the selector wing on top of the inhibitor switch. The shifter moves freely... its 100% the shaft that is binding. I might even replace the cable itself (at a later date) to provide a stronger pull after this shaft is moving freely. Anyone have any good ideas on removing the rusty nut? Impact? Or ratchet?

 

Cordless impact works well. I believe it's a 10 x1.25 Ill see if i can find it.

You're going to find getting the old inhibitor switch off is a bear. Just work it. Eventually it will come off. Once off, clean up the area. Apply a significant amount of penetrating oil to the area where the shaft goes in. Let it soak for a bit. Then, work the shaft through the gears. (Set your parking brake, or block the wheels if you haven't used that parking brake in a while). Vice frjps work decent, but DONT damage the threads or shaft. You can use the small metal bracket that connects to thr cable too, just dont bend it. Keep working it, keep applying lube. I've had good luck with this method. The better the penetrating lube, the better the outcome.

When satisfied, I typically wipe off all the excess penetrating lube, and apply a thin layer of some sort of grease. Brake grease, dielectric, grease, whatever you have.

 

When I got the nut off and went to replace it I discovered a stock nut with that thread takes a bigger socket. There seems to be no reason I could see, to stick with the little nut that they used.

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Once I get to this point. Do I turn the shaft and spray down the sides? Or does it pull out? Just want to be prepared.

 

Doesn't pull out. Just twist it back and forth to work in the lube as best you can.

 

Thank you. Lots of great info in this thread.

 

Make sure you are aware of what fear you are in. The new switch will be in neutral, it will be helpful if everything is in the neutral position (thats your alignment hold as well)

 

Update 2: What a BITCH that was to remove the nuts, bolts, wing and inhibitor switch. All of them were rusted to ****. So this is where I stand. It's still tough to rotate after spraying some penetrant. I'm going to let it sit over night while I clean up the parts. What's the best way to spin the shaft? I've been just using the wing thing that connects to the cable but I don't want to strip the hole.

 

I'm reading this thread on the edge of my seat! Wow. You're a braver man than I...although I would attempt it if I had to.

This is what I use for situations like this:

Penetrates and removes rust and lubricates, $8-12 at a GM dealer. Only good thing GM ever made...

But it does look like you have done a great job with it so far.

 

It's definitely not an easy job. The job itself is fairly simple and straight forward but the rust and seized fasteners make it a job not for the faint of heart. I was shitting when turning the shaft nut, my heart was dropping at every turn lol. For anyone else who stumbles upon this problem, a good penetrant and patience is key. I'll do a full write up when finished this job.

 

I would suggest you get a sharp pick (screwdriver style) and start scrappring around the shaft to remove the corrosion at the meeting point with the tranny housing. Scrape at it for a white until you form a small groove around the shaft. It will allow the shaft to move more freely but the groove will also hold some penetrating oil where you need to soak better. Sea foam deep creep is also a good penetrating oil...

Not sure if the explanation was clear if not sorry. Ive done this twice to un-seize rear wiper motors and it works great!

 

The transmission slector shaft will rotate CCW as you lean on the nut. I assume you have the cable disconnected. If you have not pulled it apart yet, observe the position of the flats on the shaft with the shifter in neutral. After you get everythung apart, it has to go back to that position to reassemble. The flats on mine were close to parallel to the sides of the car, when in neutral. If you get it wrong, the console shifter will not agree with the transmission. Thethought

transmission shaft is easily turned with wrench or pliers. Wrench preferred. The plate will be rusted on the shaft too. Penetrant and wiggling gets it off. The shaft has small flats for the plate and bigger flats underneath, for the range switch. When reassembling, put switch on shaft, install the two mounting screws but do not tighten. Install plate, lock washer and nut on shaft. MAKE SURE SHAFT IS IN NEUTRAL!! Put shifter in neutral. Attach cable to plate. There is a small hole in the plate and a hole in the range switch. The book says 5mm (3/16") but it will take a little bigger. The back of a drill bit is commonly used. Rotate the range switch until the drill bit in the arm aligns with the hole in the switch. Tighten the two switch mounting screws. REMOVE THE DRILL BIT.

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Such a beautiful day and my car decides to not cooperate. Just want to see what you guys think.

Vehicle: 07 Santa Fe 3.3 AWD

Shifter is stuck in park... Brake lights DO turn on... shift lock release does NOT work ( it won't release even with it pressed ). When I hit the brake I don't get any shifter release sound. Can you guys confirm if you hear a sound from the shifter area when you hit the brake? I'm pretty sure there was one.

Best case scenario is that it's a brake switch. But since the lights work in the rear, I'm thinking its fine?
[
It's a FREE recall fix. Hyundai factory recalls do not expire. Call your local dealer. I just saved myself alot of money by doing my homework.
Recall Number
13V113000
Recall Date
04/01/2013
Component
EXTERIOR LIGHTING:BRAKE LIGHTS:SWITCH