Is this tikling sound normal. I did not notice before but now even when the car is warm and that noise in parking mode

 

Wow. Where to start? I recommend using at least mid-grade (89-90) in the turbos. At this point you have no idea what kind of oil is in the engine. Do you check the oil to make sure the level is adequate? The 2.0L turbo can probably use a spark plug replacement right about now and there is a revised plug that you should ask for. You might have some fuel injector issues also. Ever since cars began to have fuel injection, I have been using a fuel additive constantly - this is much more important with the turbo. My additive is either Sta-Bil 360 or Startron - they are fuel stabilizers that have cleaning ability and also negate the corrosive effects of Ethanol in the gas. Just use 1 oz per fill-up.
I would recommend that you get an oil change right away. Use the Hyundai/KIA filter and Mobil1 'Hi-Mileage/Extended Performnce' 5W-30. Check your owner's manual to see how much oil it takes. The Gen II Direct-Injection engine might take more oil. Checking your oil, check it hot on a level surface and wait 15 minutes after turning it off. I know, this sounded crazy to me too until I found out why - devices in the engine work on oil pressure and take time to drain back. Even applying this to my '17 KIA Gen I DIGT, I found that it wasn't using oil after all, and I had been worried about that for about two years. I was just used to checking the oil after one or two minutes and was getting slightly low readings.
I'm not sure what noise you are hearing on acceleration but the exhaust on these turbos does get more 'open' over time. There's also air noise if you have an air leak on the pressure side of the turbo system or if there's no air filter in the air box or if the air box is not shut properly. If you're hearing a 'rattle' noise, that could be mechanical inside the engine or it could be spark knock from bad fuel or a problem with the Knock Sensor in the engine controls.
Uneven acceleration can also be bad fuel so you are going to have to narrow it down some by changing the fuel grade and get it from a different source.

 

Thank you for such a detailed answer. I live in canada so probably will have to look for alternative adhesives. What do you suggest when my tank is empty and then pour down the adhesive in the fuel tank and then fill it with premium grade 91 gas ? MY FIRST OIL change is free from the dealership should i wait for it its almost 1000 km remaining. How to clear fuel iniectors ? And when we say engine needs tunning what do we mean by that ?

 

2.0T, use quality synthetic oil, 5/30 be best option, it an everyday flavor

Fuel, 89/9x be best to thwart ping/knock when boost come on, and allow for little bit more timing, as with 87, knock sensor pick up on ping /knock and retard timing, and you wonder why car just barely driveable

Plugs, manual call 45-48,000 US miles, (do math for metric mile)

Injector clean, fresh gas weekly will keep injectors clean

 

There is no 'tuning' on today's engines. Everything is processor-controlled. Considering that we don't know if low oil level or wrong oil may be responsible for the engine noise, I would get the oil change ASAP. It may be Canada, but I'm sure there are auto parts stores that sell fuel additives and stabilizers like the ones I mentioned. Make sure to check the oil after the oil change to make sure the level is correct. Also find out exactly what oil they use.

 

Try cleaning your intake valves with CRC Intake Valve and Turbo Cleaner. Just did a treatment on mine before changing the oil/filter. I also put Lubeguard Biotech additive in the oil and a bottle of Redline fuel system cleaner in the tank. Engine is idling much smoother and runs a tad bit quieter. I'm currently at just over 34k miles. I will be changing the spark plugs the next time I change my oil.

 

Check the oil level on the dip stick in the morning before starting the engine, hope it is not excessively high, maybe post a pic. Don't check after minutes of stop, not accurate, shows WAY TOO HIGH, must wait for hours for accurate reading; I check in the morning when I need to. I don't know why (maybe pressure from the oil cooler, idk), but it is what it is, I just adapt 😆.

First thing, I would l change oil and filter since you don't know what is in there and for how long, use full synthetic 5w30 as stated on the oil filler cap. Avoid Pennzoil, good oil but not compatible for the SF 2.0T, causes excessive fuel dilution; Costco Kirkland synthetic oil reduces the fuel dilution.

All fillups were 87 octane. I never used any additive for anything. Actually I tried long time ago, found them to be a waste of money.

 

The above information is inaccurate and potentially dangerous to the engine. The oil is checked hot (at max expansion) to prevent overfilling. Many modern engines require more time than the older ones for the oil to fully drain down. The new Santa Fe manual says 15 minutes. My old '17 KIA manual says 5 minutes. I recommend you go by the book on this rather than taking my word or anyone else's on the subject. The whole procedure is right there in your manual, and if you don't have one, you can see it on-line.

 

The what rambokid statedd above is correct! Potentially dangerous to the engine? Come on man!

 

The oil expansion is insignificant. Check anytime anywhere for "is there enough oil". As stated in my previous post, the SF dip stick shows inaccurate level even after 0.5hrs off. I couldn't tell, but if I had to guess, like 3x the F mark 😆, obviously that is impossible. Maybe my 2.0T is assembled wrong 😆? Time to trash the manual and use common sense.

I check oil level 2x, the next morning and the morning of the oil change, on the same parking spot. First one to establish an accurate baseline, check it again 6mths later, if both are similar, then SF is happy, and I am happy.

It is ok to check more often, hot or cold, everyone is different. But for lab accuracy, morning check is the best, for consistency.

 

I'm not kidding. If you overfill the oil, you can break things. You will not find a manufacturer that says to check the oil cold - that's because its ridiculous. The oil gets checked hot because that's the maximum level. Cold oil contracts like any other fluid, so the level will be lower. If anyone detects a very high oil level on the dipstick, they have a serious problem. It is either grossly overfilled or there is a massive fuel flooding situation, like from a stuck injector, and the oil is diluted with gas. If its overfilled, you'll have to use a vacuum canister in the dipstick tube to remove the excess. If its a fuel situation, it'll have to be drained, the injector(s) fixed and the oil replaced.

 

I differ but you are entitled to your opinion!

 

At the time of your appointment, the dealer tech will likely tell you the ticks are coming from the pump. My 2.0 MPI sounds similar at 27k. Run a thick 5w30 / 0w30 Euro or 0w40. Make sure the cert reads SP.

Check the oil in the AM after sitting overnight. Do it engine cold on level surface and there's no need to bring a tissue / paper towel. Just pull the dipstick out and read it. That gives you the correct amount. Always keep it full and change it no later than every 4k (Severe Service)

 

Read the book.

 

Like I previously stated, you are entitled to your opinion!😎 I let it sit overnight so that full oil drains into the pan. I really won’t get mad if you do it your way!

 

I let it sit overnight so all the oil drains into the oil pan. The oil expansion due to heat is minimal.
Cold overnight oil check I've been doing for over 50 years without issue.
Hey but do what makes you happy.

 

The conclusion is overfill within reason will not break anything, as many of us already knew.

 

If you bought it at 350000k and it now has 390000k on it that's 40000k already on the oil and far too long to go between changes for a turbo, all the goodness is gone from it and to want to wait till 410000k is unrealistic the engine may not make it.

 

Those #s are all wrong! Keyboard problem 😆?

For the SF, I have done changes at 7mths, also at 7200km interval, dictated by other uncontrolled factors. Unless OP knows the last oil change history, then expect the worst and change it on the safe side.

 

I have the same vehicle with 33k miles and yes, it's loud on cold days and there will some vibration at lights. It's the nature of a turbo. My sister has a 2.5 non turbo and it's like it's electric so quiet. I've tried many things to dampen the engine noise under the hood but realistically, it is what it is.
Extending the oil change, well, is it worth a blown engine and getting blamed?
If you take it back to the dealership, NEVER mention anything you have done to the SF or you'll suffer the blame game.

 

It is expected the engine, when cold, to be more noisy, especially in winter temperatures. My experience is ALL 4 bangers will vibrate as they age, V6s are immune to it, never owned V8s. I don't like 4 bangers but that is the trend. Noise and vibration levels are subjective, not saying nothing is wrong with OP's SF. OP should get a few opinions, if all are oks then it is ok.

 

Y'all should try 5w40 this summer......
The engine and fuel pump are wisper quiet.

Seriously.
That grade is allowed on the manual.