You just need to install them. Make sure the nut is torqued properly. It's 35 in-lb for the ones on our Sonata and Elantra so it will be around there. Not much so it would be easy to over torque them. You should have the wheels re-balanced any time you break the bead. That means removing all the weights and starting over if it's out of balance, not just adding a bunch more weights.

The car will sense the new TPS in a few miles. Well worth having this safety feature.

 

So I've called the Hyundai dealer, and they said they charge $75 to program the sensors.



Am I missing some info here, or being misinformed. I was explained earlier here that they just need to be installed, and the car figures the rest out. Hyundai dealership is telling me they need to be programmed.


Whats the real story here?

 

Depends on what kind of sensors you bought. Some sensors can be programmed to match your car, others are just fixed frequency sensors which are fully compatible with your car. I hope you bought the latter.

If you bought the fixed frequency and protocol sensors, then you simply put them on your car, and drive for up to 20 miles for the car to automatically learn and sync with them. Then you're all done.

 

I bought these here: ebay 272695504445




They are Shrader brand 52933-C1100, used, compatible with my year Tuscon

 

I'm pretty sure those are fixed sensors, the sensors themselves can't be programmed.

On my previous cars, you had to use the dealer tool to reprogram the car to read the id's of the sensors. I know on other cars, you had to deflate all the tires to put the sensors into some sort of learn mode, and some cars you have to put a large magnet around the stem to put them in learn mode.

However, on the Hyundai, I believe it will autolearn the id's as you drive, you just have to drive them for a while, like 20 miles or so. Hyundai makes it easy.

 

ok, so with these sensors I just install them, and go for a long drive?

 

Install the sensors. Drive the car for about 10 minutes. Light never comes on because the car sees four sensors as you drive.
If you're worried, set the four tires to 38/36/34/32psi and drive the car. Confirm the car shows the four numbers. That's what I did with these sensors and the d@mned car just figured it out. Showed everything correctly.

These "program the TPMS" threads pop up every year for every Hyundai and Kia imaginable because the official party line is "go to the dealer to flash the computer". People start screaming and killing house pets in sheer hysteria when you tell them you're just going to drive the car.

Why does this "reprogram" need exist? Who knows. I think it's a bone they throw to the dealers, for lack of a better theory. You drive the car to the dealer, pay them $75, they plug in the GDS, trigger the sensors with a glorified magnet, and then swipe your credit card.
That's one way of doing it.
The other (cheaper) way: drive the car.

You will soon be another proud member of the "I Bolted Them On And Drove The Car And The Sensors Just Worked With No Drama" club.

 

I called 3 dealers, and none could give answer any questions I had about programming them. 2 places said they can program them if I come by later with them installed on the tires, 3rd place said they need to program them "during installation"

But none of them could explain the programing procedure, even when speaking to a professional.


Pepboys/Firestone/NTB/etc all offer programing services that range from $20-60, and again, no one could explain how they actually do it.


So I'm a bit confused on what needs to be done.


I'm having a hard time finding a place that will do it inexpensively. Cheapest I found is $20 including balance. The tire shop down the street used to charge me $5-10 to fix a flat, and $40-50 to mount, and balance 4 tires is now asking me $68 to just install sensors. And when I came in to speak to someone in person they said they dont do it.

 

That's because every car manufacturer does it differently. On many cars, you have to have a special tool to "activate" the sensors wirelessly to program them, others you drop the air pressure, and others use a magnet etc.... On my mitsubishi, a tire shop couldn't even do it, it had to be done at the dealer with the dealer tool. That's why the people on the phone can't give you a straight answer, all the cars that roll into the shop are different and the tire tech has to look up each make and model for the procedure.

But on hyundai, you should only need to drive it, as long as you bought compatible sensors.

 

Technically, installing the sensors is "mount and balance" because they're breaking the bead. The extra $18 is probably their assumption that they will need to use a rebuild kit on each sensor, which would be $4.50 a tire. Not the end of the world. Any tire shop can absolutely install the sensors because it's part of servicing wheels and tires. The tire shop usually won't "guarantee" the sensors will work because they don't know where they came from.
They need to: Break the bead on the tire, remove the valve stem, install the sensor, reseat the tire, fill it with air, balance it. No programming needed.
The sensors were $38, so even if you paid $68 to get everything installed, you're still only paying $106 in total. TireRack whacks you $356 to add sensors to their package, so you're still $250 ahead of the game.

 

ok, so do I need to get those sensors programed? Or will they start working on their own? can they be programmed after being installed?

 

They will work on their own. No programming. No goofy pushbutton magnets. No beeping horns or flashing lights or letting air out of the tires. Once the sensors are on the car, get in and drive it for about 10 minutes (or possibly less).

If you don't have sensors on the car now, you are getting the Yellow Histrionics Of Attorneyphobia when you start the car.
That hysteria goes away when the car sees the four sensors and remembers them.
If you are unsure that you're reading the 'new' sensors, and you want to be sure the car is displaying the correct pressure at each corner, do what I did:
***Set pressures to the following:
******Left front: 38psi
******Right front: 36psi
******Right rear: 34psi
******Left rear: 32psi
***...Then drive until the numbers display on the dash.
Caution: Don't be surprised when you see numbers very close to those, which proves the car found the rogue sensors and is reporting pressure. The resulting elation can cause lightheadedness, giddiness, and in rare cases a tendency to crack open champagne bottles.

Once you confirm the car sees the correct sensor at each position, set the pressure at 36psi, or (32 + (current temp / 10)), when the tires are at ambient temperature. The formula approach guarantees the tires are still at 32psi at 0 degrees F.

 

aight, paid $80 to get the sensors installed, and tires balanced. all good now. everything works

 

"Everything works" meaning you drove around for about as long as it takes to play "Hotel California" (in B minor, of course), and the tire pressures show in the dash display and no DashDrama blinking yellow torment?

 

yes

 

Very glad to hear this. Being the one to recommend the sensors you ended up buying, and being the lone voice in the wilderness saying "bolt em on and drive", I was hoping there wouldn't be a first-time exception to what we know has worked so far on these cars.

Now you can join the chorus - "No programming or magnets or other frippery! Just bolt em on and drive!" ... as long as you're using the C1100 sensors.

Now you can think about how to spend the $60 you didn't pay to PepBoys/Firestone/etc and/or the $100+ the dealer would have soaked you (if you could have even persuaded them to do it) for "programming" or "activation" or "authentication" or "acquiring" the sensors. >

 

Did the TPMS Work? Also what kind of winter tires did you get?

 

To get a functional TPMS system, you need to use 52933-C1100 sensors (available on eBay) installed in the wheels.
Winter tires - there are as many opinions as there are brands of tires. I have seen people here using the Michelin xi3, Altimax Arctic 12, and I use the Conti WinterContact SI. Blizzaks are excellent.
If you don't have a setup yet, I can give you the ebay auction number for the vendor where I got my wheels. They're selling OEM Tucson alloys with the correct sensors for $250 for the set of four. Add your favorite winter tires and get them mounted/balanced and you're ready for snow.

 

Hey friends,
I got "Check tpms" warning. Is there any way to determine which sensor is faulty? I don't have tpms scanner and don't want to visit dealership. Sensors are genuine Schrader , bought on Ebay and they worked fine for about 1 month. I have 2 spare sensors but don't know which sensor doesn't work.
The only idea I have is to mount summer wheels one by one and do a test drive. But it will take a lot of time.
Any better idea ?

 

Every tire shop should have a tmps scan tool which can read the tpms sensor signal from each tire. The just hold it up to each tire, and it should read the tpms ID, pressure and other information. They could figure out which one is bad in less than 5 minutes.

 

you can delete the tpms alert with a high quality scanner

 

Here is my diagnostics method





Faulty sensor found successfully. It was front left.

When I attached spare sensor to wrong rim, there was no pressure reading. Only warning.

 

I am looking to buy some winter tires. TireRack offers TPMS sensors for $90 each. The 4 sensors cost more than either the wheels, or tires. That seems ridiculous.


I can buy cheaper sensors from RockAuto, but then I have to pay to mount, and balance the tires locally. (TireRack does this for free) so I only end up saving around $150.


What am I gonna have if I run without TPMS sensors?

I've had low pressure light go off. Dash had an amber warning light, and each time I started the car it defaulted to the tire pressure screen. Not that annoying to switch off, or ignore the warning light. But how will it behave without the sensors at all?

Can I easily disable the monitoring system all together, and not deal with warning lights?

Thanks

Two solutions.

1) Buy the sensors and I'd suggest checking ebay.

2) Take a piece of black tape and cover the light. No harm will be done but you will be without the early alert. So far as I know there is no law against doing this.

As an aside I had this issue on a new 2009 Sonata I had purchased and located and purchased a complete set of wheels, tires and sensors for a very good price.

I used the black tape for about 900 miles and inexplicably the sensors somehow matched up with the computer as I was on my way to have the dealer match them. Don't know why or even if that was supposed to happen but it did.

I think $90 each is ridiculous but how much do you value your safety?. Where you live, having early warning might make all the difference. If you can suck up the cost, just do and be safe.

Alternatively, you could remove the sensors out of the other rims by breaking them down but that is chancy and you will probably break them anyway, so that's not a good option.

I'd opt for the sensors and you will soon forget the cost and you will be safe.

 

Thanks everyone, I had my tires installed the xice 3 at 115 a peice install was 76. I bought the wheels with tpms in ebay for 250. Overall a good deal for $820 and I am happy about it. And I also have an additional $70 rebate.


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