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Removing the rear plastic trim panel on an i20?

19K views 38 replies 6 participants last post by  Henrik Denish  
#1 ·
There's water getting in to the right side of the boot/trunk of my wife's 2009 i20, but I can't get the side panel off to investigate. I've removed the centre rear trim panel (broken clips :crying2: ) and the 3 screws from the panel to the floor, but the thing is still securely held.
Do I just pull harder and break some more clips?
 
#2 ·
I can answer my own question: pull harder (no broken clips!) and remove the seat back. I can't get the whole panel off but enough to see where the water is running down, but not where it's getting in. I've just noticed that one of the plastic rails in the roof is loose so am starting to suspect that - how are they held?
 
#5 ·
Looks like quite a job to remove side trim as it goes right down into rear door well. Is the picture showing from below the rear light cluster this looks as if it is a drain hole We are going to take light off next week and put silicone in any grommets or holes to see if that makes a difference. Also saw someone said it was the vertical join running down from the plastic roof trim which they revealed with silicone
 
#6 ·
Yes, we removed the light cluster to reveal what we think is a slightly loose vent or blanking plug. We poured water over the loose part and watched it drain into the boot. We definitely think this is where the problem is for us, as all water going under the tail light cluster has to drain past that hole but water wouldn’t normally flow through the hole as the plug should be fixed firm (the same plug on the other side is fixed).

As it is difficult to reach, we have improvised a ‘fix’ by sticking the top of the loose part with gaffer tape to see if this prevents water running inside the boot through this hole (at least until the weather warms up to fix it properly!)

Good luck next week!
 
#24 ·
Thanks for info. I lifted some of the roof strip but the only joint I can see is running vertically down from the roof strip. I sealed it with clear silicone but it came off after a while maybe I should have made sure it was dry. Can i ask what sealant you used. My i20 is 63 reg
Hi there
I explored every area with a hose pipe and it only leaked into boot wen I run water on the roof. No you can’t see any gaps but the mastic seal that Hyundai applied to the weld joint between tools and body, under the plastic strip, was a lot narrower than the other side.
So I removed plastic strip ensuring I did not move the plastic clips that align with the metal brackets, thoroughly dried the channel with cloth and hair dryer.
Then applied a wide bead of sealant to the seam, smoothing it out to cover both edges of the original mastic seal. I also did the same with the vertical joint as it leaves the channel onto boot strut.
I, like you had previously sealed the roof joint, I used clear sealant used for brick, masonry, plastic windows and glass. However it was a month back so weather was always damp. It didn’t seal it and when I come to redo the seal you could remove the silicone seal in one long strand.
This time I used a sealant/adhesive by Granville from Halfords specifically for vehickes, it was £5 for a small tube. (See photo). I took a lot more care in preparing the channel by thouroughly drying it and cleaning any possible grease with white spirit. I also checked the weather to ensure no rain was expected for at least 4-5 hours.

My wife’s car is 63 plate too. I think the sun etc has affected the Hyundai mastic which is now rock hard and caused it ti pull away from metal so seal is broken but you cant see it is.

hope this helps as it was driving me mad not able to solve it. Few photos attached

 
#22 ·
Hi guys, I found your posts most helpful in trying to track down a leak on my wife’s Hyundai i20 which was pooling water in the offside boot floor.
Unfortunately after removing the rear light and seats and sealing joints etc no success.
I finally resolve it as I sealed the joint between the roof and body under the plastic roof strip as it must have deteriorated with time. You can’t see any visible leaks but the water runs along the seal and leaks into the boot. I also sealed the joint from the roof seam as it continues down the top boot strut.
I put sealant adhesive along both sides of the joint smoothing off with a wet finger and let it dry fully by taking the car for a ride to help it dry.
I replaced th3 rubber strip the following day after testing the joint with watering can.
Hope this helps
 
#30 ·
Lever the rear end of the plastic strip with a hard plastic implement so as not to damage paintwork. Once you have it lifted pull gently upward up to first clip, I then moved along lifted it section by section to the next clip. I was on small steps which helped. I made the mistake of moving the clips which slide along the strip which made refitting it difficult so try to ensure the clips are perfectly aligned to brackets before refitting.
by the way I sealed around these brackets as well.
Dont hesitate to ask for more info of me if you are unsure
 
#34 ·
I used about 3/4 of a tube on all the offside as that was the one leaking. It’s rained several times now but thankfully still dry in boot. Did not do the near side. Good luck, just make sure your sealant bead is wide enough when smoothed out to cover both sides of existing mastic plus around brackets