Ok, here I go again, I try to keep it low-tech.
Combustion process:
The air-fuel mixture burning duration (at mixture of 14.7 parts of air to 1part of fuel) is +- 3.5ms (depending on combustion chamber design). The mixture is ignited +- 1/3rd of the time at BTC (Before the piston is at Top dead Centre), and continues as the piston descends after TDC (Top Dead Centre).
As the plug ignites a tiny flame, and the flame expands (like a stone into the pond creates ripples), it creates heat, and want to expand. BUT, the piston is still going up towards TDC, and compressing the wanting to expand mixture further. This in turn will heat the mixture further, which will speed the burning and heating process.
Pre-ignition:
If the mixture is ignited too soon, the mixture will get hot enough to overheat a particle (piece of carbon or machining edge etc.) in the combustion chamber (or piston top). This hot spot will act as a plug, and at the next compression stroke, will ignite the mixture just before the plug does. Now you have 2 flame fronts, and as they collide, you hear the PINKING. This pre/self ignition creates a sound frequency of +-5550zh, which the knock sensor is tuned in to. Should this occur, the sensor signals the ECM, and it will **** the plug ignition of that cylinder. This will prevent a flame collision, and hence, no pinking.
Ignition process:
All today Hyundai’s have a high compression engine of 10:1 ratio or even higher, meaning, that the piston compresses its sweep-volume into a 1/10th big a volume (combustion chamber).
At high ambient temperature, and with 87octane fuel, the ignition time will be somewhat retarded under certain engine loads. At 91octane fuel, the timing is more advanced towards where it should be. The advanced timing creates a higher combustion temperature, and with it more power on the down stroke of the piston.
The higher octane is more resistant to pre/self ignition, and therefore will not self ignite on the next compression stroke.
There are other factors to consider. In the wintertime, where the ambient temp is in the freezing range, the cold intake air (no pre-heated air with fuel injected engines) alone causes lower combustion temp and is more “unfriendly” to ignition. A lower octane fuel will help compensate for it.
In summer, there is a different scenario. The warm intake air will add to the pre/self ignition possibility, and the result with low octane fuel is, a more than necessary retarded ignition time.
Thanks to the electronic technology, doe to the presence of the KNOCK-SENSOR, one can get away with 87 in the summer. This on the other hand will not give you the capable performance or the fuel economy.
With the help of the knock sensor, the ECM will advance the ignition time to the maximum possible, and always close to the pre/self ignition threshold.
The owner’s manual states “MINIMUM of 87 octane fuel is recommended”. Hyundai finally realises this mistake, and as from 2002 states “MINIMUM of 87 octane fuel OR HIGHER is recommended”.
If higher octane would be harmfull for the engine, then Hyundai would not recommend it.........or would they??????????????
I hope I was clear enough.