Such a bitch job. The lower and upper shock bolts are seized solid and the cvaxle shaft is seized inside the hub. Anyone have any ingenious ideas ( that won't destroy the axle or the shock in the process ). I asked another mechanic if he wants to do the job and he passed on it lol.
Pawelek
I never heard of the CV spline rusting into the wheel bearing center. A whack from a hammer should also pop it back out and free if there is any resistance. I have worked on my driver side rear twice and it was not stuck at all. Once the big nut is loose or removed it will move in/out within the Diff. In other vehicles older they weren't rusting in either.
Having said that you'll find the bearing well rusted to the backing plate the bearing bolts go through. Separating them in the vehicle would be difficult. Disconnecting the e-brake cable and taking it to a work bench to pound it out was how mine was done the second time.
Having said that you'll find the bearing well rusted to the backing plate the bearing bolts go through. Separating them in the vehicle would be difficult. Disconnecting the e-brake cable and taking it to a work bench to pound it out was how mine was done the second time.
If you have another car head over to AutoZone with a credit card
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When you return the tools they take the charge off.
As for the shock bolts, you're going to have to armstrong them off or crack the nut and get a new one. Back when I had a few nickles I bought a compressor and air tools.
Or while you're at AZ get a breaker bar. You're going to need leverage to get the nuts off.
And +10 on the anti-seize. Get a tube of that, too. BTW, one tube should last a lifetime...unless you lose it, step on it when the cap is off, etc...
Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum - View Single Post - wub wub wub wubwubwubwubwub
When you return the tools they take the charge off.
As for the shock bolts, you're going to have to armstrong them off or crack the nut and get a new one. Back when I had a few nickles I bought a compressor and air tools.
Or while you're at AZ get a breaker bar. You're going to need leverage to get the nuts off.
And +10 on the anti-seize. Get a tube of that, too. BTW, one tube should last a lifetime...unless you lose it, step on it when the cap is off, etc...
Bolts are now out but the bushing/pin is seized to the shock mounting point on the top and bottom. I'm a little worried that I'll destroy the cv shaft. Anyone have the replacement procedure (Hyundai tsb) of a rear CV shaft replacement? Might as well be prepared lol. Working with no hoist this week so this isn't fun.
After taking the axle nut off, all I see is rot under it. It's really that bad
After taking the axle nut off, all I see is rot under it. It's really that bad
Sounds like a lot of super salt corrosion. I see you're in Ontario, somewhere. Cottage country road roads are very bad with both salt and sand which doesn't really wash away on its own. Rusting gets quite bad.
You backing plate maybe shot if its that bad. The bearing will be rusted to it as it was with mine. Its an dealer part I believe but you might want to verify a source should you need to replace it.
You backing plate maybe shot if its that bad. The bearing will be rusted to it as it was with mine. Its an dealer part I believe but you might want to verify a source should you need to replace it.
pretty straight forward job, get suspension loose to where you can get enough swing to allow axle stub out of hub or differential first,
You might see a little bit of gear oil come out, not sure, compare fill plug height to rough axle height at side.. worst case, go ahead and change the oil in differential if it been in there awhile
You might see a little bit of gear oil come out, not sure, compare fill plug height to rough axle height at side.. worst case, go ahead and change the oil in differential if it been in there awhile
Just for future reference/someone else trying this job. I changed my rear hub tonight without removing any suspension or emergency brake components by doing the following:
-remove wheel
-remove caliper/mounting bracket
-remove rotor
-remove abs sensor
-32mm socket, remove axle nut
-use a 2 arm gear/bearing puller with the arms around the hub and bolt on the end of the axle shaft to push the cv shaft inwards as much as possible (don't get crazy, you don't need to crank hard on it!)
-spray everything down with penetrating oil
-grind down a 14mm 3/8 drive shallow socket so that it is as shallow as possible but engages bolt head fully.
-You can now access and remove all 4 hub bolts without damaging the tone ring (use a variety of short/long 3/8 extensions)
-hub/backing plate can now be separated from spindle.
-cut 2 pieces of 2"x6" lumber about 10" long and place them on edge, lay the backing plate/hub on the 2"x6"s shoe side down. This should be arranged so that shoes/thick portion of the backing plate rest on the lumber (not the thin outer part of the backing plate, mine was corroded and fragile but still intact) the hub should be unsupported
-spray the hub/backing plate interface liberally with penetrating oil.
-Seperate the hub from the backing plate by striking the back of the hub with a ball peen (mine was corroded pretty good thanks to Ontario winters, so a few good hits were required)
-wire brush all corroded components
-reassemble in reverse. I found it helpful to line up the new hub and backing plate to the spindle and clamp it all together so that the bearing puller could be utilized again to hold the cv shaft back.
Hope this helps. Took about 2.5-3hrs but as long as there aren't any surprises (like a rotten backing plate) the other side should be quicker.
-remove wheel
-remove caliper/mounting bracket
-remove rotor
-remove abs sensor
-32mm socket, remove axle nut
-use a 2 arm gear/bearing puller with the arms around the hub and bolt on the end of the axle shaft to push the cv shaft inwards as much as possible (don't get crazy, you don't need to crank hard on it!)
-spray everything down with penetrating oil
-grind down a 14mm 3/8 drive shallow socket so that it is as shallow as possible but engages bolt head fully.
-You can now access and remove all 4 hub bolts without damaging the tone ring (use a variety of short/long 3/8 extensions)
-hub/backing plate can now be separated from spindle.
-cut 2 pieces of 2"x6" lumber about 10" long and place them on edge, lay the backing plate/hub on the 2"x6"s shoe side down. This should be arranged so that shoes/thick portion of the backing plate rest on the lumber (not the thin outer part of the backing plate, mine was corroded and fragile but still intact) the hub should be unsupported
-spray the hub/backing plate interface liberally with penetrating oil.
-Seperate the hub from the backing plate by striking the back of the hub with a ball peen (mine was corroded pretty good thanks to Ontario winters, so a few good hits were required)
-wire brush all corroded components
-reassemble in reverse. I found it helpful to line up the new hub and backing plate to the spindle and clamp it all together so that the bearing puller could be utilized again to hold the cv shaft back.
Hope this helps. Took about 2.5-3hrs but as long as there aren't any surprises (like a rotten backing plate) the other side should be quicker.
I just did this and it's not as easy as grinding down a socket. My ground down socket cracked on the first go. The axle shaft was seized into the hub. No press, Air hammer or hours of heating took it out. Had to cut the shaft in half then remove the bearing hub bolts. After that I had to cut the shaft again closer to the rear of the bearing assembly and beat it out with an air hammer. 6 hours later, it was done. The easiest part was changing the axle. Here I thought that would be the hard part... What a headache.
Ouch, I spent a lot more time on mine and eventually to it to a shop to do. Too much looking to backfire and go wrong at the Tone ring and bolt conflicting. Its not an easy setup to service for those of us in the salt belt and that covers a lot. Hyundia need to build for Winters and Canada where salt rules!!!
Many problems on these after caused by rusting issues. They don't have it in Korea and likely no clue what we endure unlike many other off shore OEM's also build in Canada. Yeah I know mine was assembled in the USA but not in a salt state and not for salty roads.
Many problems on these after caused by rusting issues. They don't have it in Korea and likely no clue what we endure unlike many other off shore OEM's also build in Canada. Yeah I know mine was assembled in the USA but not in a salt state and not for salty roads.
You might want to check that the mounting bolts have pulled the bearing all the way into the back plate. (The plate gets very rusty on these sometimes the bearing won't come out).
Unfortunately there is a lot of work to get to that point and have to remove the rotor in the lease to see past the e-brake shoes.
Unfortunately there is a lot of work to get to that point and have to remove the rotor in the lease to see past the e-brake shoes.
Update to this thread as I did a front Hub last night. Steps are basically the same as the rear that I posted earlier but no backing plate/emergency brakes to worry about. Like everything in life lots of lube helped.
-Remove tire
-Remove Caliper
-Remove Rotor
-Remove speed sensor
-Remove axle nut
-Remove the bolt holding the lower balljoint into the spindle assemble (Do not have to separate the spindle/lower balljoint/control arm at all) This allows clearance to get a wrench on the two lower hub bolts.
-My dust shield was rusted to nothing so I removed and discarded (Ontario salt belt!)
-Used the same trick as posted earlier with the gear puller to hold the axle back for clearance
-Top two bolts are easily removed used the ground down socket and ratchet as mentioned previously (a pipe for leverage on the ratchet helps break these bolts free)
-Bottom two bolts required a good box end wrench with some hammer persuasion due to clearance issues (socket wasn't going to fit)
-After bolts removed the hub was good and seized into the spindle but a cold chisel and plenty of hammering worked it loose in short order.
-Cleaned up corrosion and bolted up the new hub in reverse order. Applied anti-seize to the axle shaft.
Overall ~2.5 hrs start to finish. Floor jacket, below zero temps and some supervision by my 3yr old apprentice may have added some time to the repair
-Remove tire
-Remove Caliper
-Remove Rotor
-Remove speed sensor
-Remove axle nut
-Remove the bolt holding the lower balljoint into the spindle assemble (Do not have to separate the spindle/lower balljoint/control arm at all) This allows clearance to get a wrench on the two lower hub bolts.
-My dust shield was rusted to nothing so I removed and discarded (Ontario salt belt!)
-Used the same trick as posted earlier with the gear puller to hold the axle back for clearance
-Top two bolts are easily removed used the ground down socket and ratchet as mentioned previously (a pipe for leverage on the ratchet helps break these bolts free)
-Bottom two bolts required a good box end wrench with some hammer persuasion due to clearance issues (socket wasn't going to fit)
-After bolts removed the hub was good and seized into the spindle but a cold chisel and plenty of hammering worked it loose in short order.
-Cleaned up corrosion and bolted up the new hub in reverse order. Applied anti-seize to the axle shaft.
Overall ~2.5 hrs start to finish. Floor jacket, below zero temps and some supervision by my 3yr old apprentice may have added some time to the repair
I did my rear today and while I was at replaced the Trailer ARM and middle control arm. The middle control arm was seized on there so cut it off with sawz saw. I went with the remove knuckle of vehicle approach. When off the car I was able to pry the old hub off with multiple stiff blade scraper and small crow bars. I also replaced the emergency brake shoes those **** springs are a pain in the ass. Getting the emergency brake cable is also tricky back on. Put the emergency cable back before you put the shoes in place. For the life of me would love to know the trick of getting that top drum spring back on?
Also be very careful with the sensor and tone teeth! I was and when I turned the car on she went to limp mode. Check engine light, ESC ligh, and AWD light . I went back took the wheel off clean the teeth with brake clean and the sensor with Rubbing Alcohol. Then problem went away. She getting old so it happens.
180K mile in NJ....one more year and I will give it away to a family member.
Also be very careful with the sensor and tone teeth! I was and when I turned the car on she went to limp mode. Check engine light, ESC ligh, and AWD light . I went back took the wheel off clean the teeth with brake clean and the sensor with Rubbing Alcohol. Then problem went away. She getting old so it happens.
180K mile in NJ....one more year and I will give it away to a family member.
Ahh more people having fun with wheel bearing on AWD. LOL
E-brake springs are impossible to stretch by simply pulling (top or bottom) I spent days on it to no avail for a long time. I need to figure out some way to pry and get them on. I won't touch them again myself. Not worth the mechanics labour on the hoist.
As well back or another thread it all rusts together in the backing plate and in most cases cannot be separated on the vehicle. So the rear E-brake cable has to come off and reinstalled as mentioned. A bearing should last a long time so I'll just pay the mechanic again when I need to do my other side.
E-brake springs are impossible to stretch by simply pulling (top or bottom) I spent days on it to no avail for a long time. I need to figure out some way to pry and get them on. I won't touch them again myself. Not worth the mechanics labour on the hoist.
As well back or another thread it all rusts together in the backing plate and in most cases cannot be separated on the vehicle. So the rear E-brake cable has to come off and reinstalled as mentioned. A bearing should last a long time so I'll just pay the mechanic again when I need to do my other side.
Hubs on these vehicles are terrible. I have the other rear hub gone now. I'm replacing them with Timken hoping that I won't have to redo any.
Fronts are a bit easier because of the lack of parking brake assembly.
They don't come off as easy as the video but at least for the front you can position a cold chisel between the hub/spindle and hammer on that to separate.
Fronts are a bit easier because of the lack of parking brake assembly.
They don't come off as easy as the video but at least for the front you can position a cold chisel between the hub/spindle and hammer on that to separate.
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