I think what you described could work, adding a few washers.

The reinstall procedures specify tightening the yoke plug to a much higher torque than the final setting, so at the very least i think you could tighten it for a brief drive and see how it feels.

I am not sure if tightening up the plug too much poses the threat of putting strain on other components in the power steering system. I am sure it tells you to reciprocate the rack slowly for a reason when you have the yoke plug really tight.



On the other hand, I have wondered if doing something like this would work on the accent, at the very least just looping the lines. you could ditch the power steering pump and belt completely...

http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php




yes after skimming through the miata rack tutorial i think you are right, the reverse angle is you back off 35*

 

The adjustment above is a pre-load of rack teeth to the pinion gear.. and mis-adjust will result in lash between the pinion and rack, or too tight of gear engagement...

Best advice, leave it alone.

 

If this works i am putting my steering belt back on. lol.

 

QUOTE (omg grip @ Jun 29 2010, 06:24 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=337242

I think what you described could work, adding a few washers.

The reinstall procedures specify tightening the yoke plug to a much higher torque than the final setting, so at the very least i think you could tighten it for a brief drive and see how it feels.

I am not sure if tightening up the plug too much poses the threat of putting strain on other components in the power steering system. I am sure it tells you to reciprocate the rack slowly for a reason when you have the yoke plug really tight.



On the other hand, I have wondered if doing something like this would work on the accent, at the very least just looping the lines. you could ditch the power steering pump and belt completely...

http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php




yes after skimming through the miata rack tutorial i think you are right, the reverse angle is you back off 35*

A looped power rack work well. That way you make sure the rack doesn't wear out from being dry. It does offer more resistance than a true manual rack because the ratio isn't the same.


QUOTE (sbr711 @ Jun 29 2010, 06:29 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=337243

The adjustment above is a pre-load of rack teeth to the pinion gear.. and mis-adjust will result in lash between the pinion and rack, or too tight of gear engagement...

Best advice, leave it alone.

Pre-load can be increased without any damage. I'm not saying we should torque the thing to 40lb-ft but adding a bit of load shouldn't be a problem.

 

How would adding more preload on the power steering rack improve steering feel? I am curious because this is not something I have ever researched.

Also, have you thought about swapping to a manual rack? (Is there even one available for our cars?) If there was this would allow you to get rid of the PS pump with a shorter accessory belt and free up a couple horsepower. This was a semi common mod on b13 sentras.

The only problem on sentras was the manual rack had more turns lock to lock, a lower ratio i guess.

 

QUOTE (fonque @ Jul 3 2010, 05:29 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=338582

How would adding more preload on the power steering rack improve steering feel? I am curious because this is not something I have ever researched.

Also, have you thought about swapping to a manual rack? (Is there even one available for our cars?) If there was this would allow you to get rid of the PS pump with a shorter accessory belt and free up a couple horsepower. This was a semi common mod on b13 sentras.

The only problem on sentras was the manual rack had more turns lock to lock, a lower ratio i guess.

I myself prefer a heavier steering than something too light. Adding pre-load would increase resistance and make smaller inputs easier to modulate.

I know the MC is available with a manual rack in other markets. I don't know how we could get one and which additionnal parts we would need. The tie-rods could be different and the u-joint as well.

The LC power steering rack looks similar to ours except for the tie-rods but they might be interchangeable. If the PS rack is the same, the LC manual rack will fit in the MC. I don't know if the MC tie-rods would mate with the LC rack.

 

Power steering isn't offered on the (very) bottom of the barrel Rio, if that would help with North American parts sourcing. Provided things would interchange. :whistling:

 

QUOTE (hoosieraccent @ Jul 3 2010, 08:44 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=338612

Power steering isn't offered on the (very) bottom of the barrel Rio, if that would help with North American parts sourcing. Provided things would interchange. :whistling:

I was totally unaware the base Rio didn't come with assisted steering. Must be a US only thing because all Rios come with PS in Canada. Makes things a lot simpler then. Being the same mechanically, everything should interchange.

Seems the Manual Rack can be bought for 125$ by looking at car-part.com.

 

 Could be a US thing.  The base Rio here lacks P/S, only comes in manual trans,has silver painted steel wheels (no full wheel covers,) no A/C, no radio, no tilt, etc...  Nothing is available as options.  P/S is standard on LX and SX trims, with the LX appearing to sell the most out of the lineup by my observation.  Might be hard to track down a base Rio, there probably aren't many sold like that.

Can't find much on Kia's site about the specifics of the steering gear, except a lock-to-lock turn figure (4.3 manual, 3.0 power.)  Not very useful. lol!

 

Has anybody looked into spoofing the RPM sensing part of the rack to keep it in the low power mode?

 

QUOTE (oxbrain @ Sep 15 2010, 11:55 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=356549

Has anybody looked into spoofing the RPM sensing part of the rack to keep it in the low power mode?

There's no RPM sensor or any sensor on the rack/pump. It's a hydraulic system with a pressure relief valve in the pump.

 

Oh. I was hoping it was variable assist. It certainly feels heavier on the highway.

I guess my best bet is to turn down the operating pressure by changing out the spring in the pump.

 

I still want to do this. (loop the fluid lines, ditch the belt and pump) Havent had the balls to yet though.

QUOTE (omg grip @ Jun 29 2010, 06:24 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=337242

On the other hand, I have wondered if doing something like this would work on the accent, at the very least just looping the lines. you could ditch the power steering pump and belt completely...

http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php

the accent rack appears to be very similar in design to the miata's rack.

maybe someday I can score a used power rack for cheap and try to do a full de-power conversion

 

Any update with this?

 

Nope