Try removing even the little coin holder. It has some sort of permanent wire attached to it. Why, its not like it lights up, or would fall off?. The hinges on the bottom secure it.

I am getting too old to fix things. I specialize in breaking things now!

 

out of curiosity, why are you removing the tray ? going to turn the Sonata into a Station Wagon ??

 

I plan on hanging an amp rack from the deck. With the tray out, it should make it easier to drill some holes without damaging the carpeted deck piece.

 

Originally posted by MiamiLX@Jul 6 2006, 03:21 PM
Try removing even the little coin holder. It has some sort of permanent wire attached to it. Why, its not like it lights up, or would fall off?. The hinges on the bottom secure it.

I am getting too old to fix things. I specialize in breaking things now!

[snapback]47004[/snapback]​

Coin holder? There's a coin holder in the back seat / trunk area??

Better add that to my list of things I love about my Sonata!

:bwekk:

 

im pretty sure miami was referring to the child seat anchors, and they need to come out if you havent removed the bolts already.

i THINK the third brake light has a snap clip... check on webtech though.

 

Originally posted by dogstar@Jul 6 2006, 04:11 PM
im pretty sure miami was referring to the child seat anchors

[snapback]47012[/snapback]​

Yeah, those would be dollar holders...

:whistling:

 

I'm able to get the tray over the anchors even though they're still in place. ANd I've already printed the pages from the hmaservice manual. What am I missing? :wacko:

 

Is there anything holding from the bottom ? If you go back to the trunk and poke your head in there and look up underneath ?

 

Sorry. I was thinking about the little storage compartment on the left side of the Steering wheel, near the fuse box. I pulled it out to do the Coinstar thing, and pulled, and pulled, and found it attached to a wire/cable.

 

Well I worked around taking out the tray. I was able to get my hands in there enough to feel for wires and there isnt't any. At least where I'm drilling holes anyway. I'll post some pics of a rough mock-up in a bit.

 

This is what I am trying to do:

It's not level I know, and far from being completed. You get the idea.

 

Nice. Are you mounting the amp on top, or upsidedown? If your amp can screw down to the board, I'd consider routing out some slots in the wood to increase the air flow. A cool amp is a happy amp.

I'm thinking about making a mounting board to go over the wheels, and tipping them in slightly. My ultimate goal is to leave as much usable empty space in the trunk as possible. Unlike some of the other installs I've seen, I don't want a trunk full of equipment (or at least make it look like there's not :whistling: ).

Keep us updated on your progress. I'd also be interested to know how difficult the electrical is to install.

 

Just a suggestion, but I'd attach the amp(s) to the bottom side of that board, and suck the board up tight to the underside of the rear deck. No offence, but what you've got there, isn't the most structurally solid idea I've seen for mounting an amp.
That's just me though.

 

amps dont like being upside down... heat and components breaking off the circuit board.

im assuming your going to use stronger stanchions to hold it, but that looks very similar to what i was planning, once you finalize the design id like to see pics.

should work great as long as you brace the rear deck, washers maybe?

 

I'm using 1/4" threaded bolts, 1.5" fender washers, smaller washers and locking washers. They will be tightened down on both the top and underside of the deck as well as the amp rack. And the final placement will be 5" from the deck. Allowing a couple of inches for air flow. The deck doesn't seem that weak. It should support the rack easily. (cross fingers now)

I'm in no hurry to finish this project, it's a weekend thing. But I'll post pics as I progress.

 

I've got mine out OK. Here's the additional steps:

You have to remove the C-Pillar covers. There's a screw behing the "SRS" cover in the corner. Now for the bad news: Hyundai cleverly hid 4-5 *&^%(*&^$(&^$(&%$ metal prongs behind the covers. You'll need a good panel clip tool; I think I got mine at Harbor Freight. It has a round, bent steel shank with a Y-shaped prying end.

Come to think of it, I'll take a picture tonight of my retaining clip tool and one of the covers so you can see where Hyundai cleverly hid the **** prongs. Forewarned is forearmed.

If you think pure thoughts, you can pry the cover out just a bit then maneuver your tool in and get under the metal prongs and pop them out. Don't try to pull the cover off without a good pry tool or you'll break the plastic off the covers. Ask me how I know ... :bwekk:

After you get both covers off, I suggest you remove the seat belts from the bottom pan and pass them thru the popup doors in the parcel tray; all three do indeed go thru but you have to monkey with them a bit.

You've got the side bolsters off as well as the screws holding the parcel tray in place. I didn't need to remove the seat backs nor the black plastic trim.

Off topic, but when I installed my Kenwood I had weak FM and no AM. There's an antenna amplifier under the passenger-side C pillar cover. If you're interested I can tell you how I wired it to work with the Kenwood.

More film at eleven!

 

Thanx for that info Dennis. I do have a panel removal tool but I'm hoping I can get away without removing the tray. But solid info nonetheless! :liebe011:

Now, my Metra wire harness does have a wire for "power antenna", but the JVC harness uses that one for the remote turn-on. How did you wire up the Kenwood? The JVC has HD Radio, so I'm sure I'm gonna need strong FM antenna reception...if it's anything like HDTV over the air it's either there or not.

 

If you have no AM, you'll have to do the mod. If you do have AM, you're good-to-go.

Cars with on-glass antennas have an antenna amp (thank you, Crutchfield tech support!) The factory HU signals the Antenna Amp to turn on. The antenna amp lives under the passenger C-pillar cover.

The Kenwood has a separate Antenna Remote and Amp Remote. I ran a wire from the HU's ant rem, cut the factory ant amp's wire and spliced it into wire from the Kenwood.

The only difference between the Amp Remote and Antenna Remote is the ant rem is not hot when you're listening to CD/Aux. I don't see any problem with connecting both your amp remote and the antenna amp to your HU's amp rem. They're both low drain.

 

I looked again at my antenna amp. Turns out you don't have to remove the passerger C-pillar cover with the hard-to-remove clips to restore your AM.

If you've got AM reception with your aftermarket HU you don't have to do this mod.

Since you have your side bolster off, you can see the cable leading up under the passenger side C-pillar cover. One thin wire powers the antenna amp. On my Sonata it's dark green with silver spots.

You can confirm which thin wire leads to the antenna amp by temporarily plugging the factory radio back in. Then cut the suspected thin wire and see if you can measure +12V coming from the thin wire leading forward when you turn the factory radio on to AM; dunno about FM. If so you've found the magic wire.

Cap off the unused wire going forward and splice the new HU's antenna remote or amplifier remote into the magic wire.

Now you can listen to inane talk shows, bad music and sports again. :clap:

 

Can this antenna wire be found on the factory harness? Or is it some kind of direct line from a switched or steady power source. I'd like to be able to splice this wire at the HU instead of running another wire through the car or off the amps remote turn on.

I'll have to take a look today for that wire...dark green w/ silver spots. (Cool the "frog wire")

 

Check out my thread on the SWI-ALP install I was having problems with (sorry, too lazy to find the link but it's in this forum). I think I found the antenna lead in the harness. I also point out where you can see the electrical diagram over on hmaservice.

Good luck!

 

Sheisa! The BBS just threw out my post :bwekk:

You can't tap the Frog Wire at the HU; been there, tried that It's easy to find with the bolsters off and they're easy to remove.

I had a thought on the package tray removal. I think the reason the tray's not coming out is there's too much friction between the top of the tray and the bottom of the C pillar covers. It might be possible to slide some slick plastic between and give the package tray a pull forward and out. A wide putty knife might also do the trick.

 

I don't see the Frog wire, but dark green with a stripe I do see.
Anyway, I will prolly tap the "power antenna" wire on the Metra harness to the "amp remote / power antenna" wire on the HU harness. The HU harness diagram lists that particular wire is an either/or. I just don't wanna put the unit in and then have to solder a new wire or run one. I'm trying to do as much pre-prod work as possible, so the install will be just that: plug-n-play!

 

Back the truck up!

When you say, "Metra harness" do you mean the harness that plugs into the Hyundai? If so, Metra is lying to you :w00t: The Hyundai don't have a conventional antenna remote wire. Such a wire would read +12V when the factory radio is turned on to AM. Hyundai uses a plug that's identical to a Ford plug; Fords have such a wire. Maybe Metra cheaped out.

I think Hyundai put some sort of logic circuit in between the HU and ant amp. One of the "extra" wires unconnected to my Hyundai-to-aftermarket plug reads in the millivolt range when I turn the factory radio on AM. I don't think millivolts will power your ant amp and you might damage the logic circuit if you connect your HU's amp rem (+12v) directly to ... wherever the Metra connected the ant rem wire to if it's expecting millivolts :w00t:

I ran a separate wire from my HU's ant rem (amp rem works, too) back to the Frog wire. Don't tap the FW; you might damage the logic circuit. I cut it and connected my HU's ant rem to the FW running up to the C pillar cover. I capped off the unused FW running forward to prevent short circuits.

As soon as I made the connection to the FW the new HU quit hunting for an AM station and played the baseball game. :beer:

This isn't near as bad as the '89 Taurus (my first.) The plug had the constant and accessories wires switched. It mighta worked but every time I shut off the car I would have lost my station presets. Lucky the Crutchfield rep warned me to do a reality check on all the wires.

 

I looked up the wiring on hmaservice, and the lead for the antenna is pin 24 on the factory harness. The Metra harness had no lead into that wire (it's one of the corner pins). The wire is the same gauge as the power and ground, so I beleive it can handle the current from the HU. I jumped right from the antenna lead on my new HU to the wire (bypassing both harnesses). I can't tell you if AM comes in better (I never checked), but before I did it my new head unit wouldn't lock onto any FM stations in scan mode, and after I get pretty much all of them (and the radio text).