good for you, sounds like aplan.

 

I stick with 3-4K conventional oil.

 

I also do the 3K conventional on the Turbo Sonata and 3750 on the Santa Fe non turbo.

 

Meh, M1 is overrated IMO. Not a bad oil, but I don't believe it's any better(or worse) than the offerings of its competitors.

Your major brand conventionals are excellent, too.

 

Meh, M1 is overrated IMO. Not a bad oil, but I don't believe it's any better(or worse) than the offerings of its competitors.

Your major brand conventionals are excellent, too.

I bought a Mercedes Benz in 2001 that came with Mobil 1, 0-40w (100% synthetic) from the factory.

As with any new engine I am used to prior, I expected the engine to "wear-in" to it's best gas mileage within the first 5000 miles or so. When the mpgs didn't improve, I asked the service manager and he told me that the Mobil 1 is slippery enough to delay engine breakin well beyond the norm.

Taking this with a grain of salt, I continued to use Mobil 1, watching the mpgs over time. The mileage began to improve about 8,000 miles, and peaked well into the 45,000 mile range, where it has remained to this day.

So, my first hand, documented experience indicates to me that the properties of 100% synthetic oils delay full breakin periods, because they are superior lubricants. I do not know about blended synthetic, and all Mobil 1 other than 0-40w are blends, I am told. But I am convinced that Mobil 1, 100% synthetic (0-40w) oil will reduce engine wear.

Just bought a 5 quart jug at Walmart yesterday for $22.06.

 

This is so freaking true yet dealers & majority of shops scare everyone into believing there in the "server category" just by asking, "do you do a lot of stop and go driving!" Who doesn't?! Someone who lives in the nevada desert?!!!

3. Nearly all cars should be serviced under the "severe" maintenance schedule. This oft-cited rule is a myth the quick oil-change industry (including Jiffy Lube) uses to bolster more-frequent-than-necessary oil changes, experts tell Edmunds.com. When manufacturers say "severe," they mean situations in which vehicles pull heavy trailers, or cars race on closed tracks. It also applies to taxis or emergency-response vehicles that can idle for hours at a time. Just plain old stop-and-go traffic doesn't automatically bump people into the severe schedule. For further proof, consider this: A number of automakers, including Ford and GM, contacted Edmunds data editors to request that the maintenance section of Edmunds' site substitute the normal maintenance schedule for the severe schedule that had been displayed. If your car has an oil life monitoring system the severe-versus-normal question is moot.

EDIT FOR ROMAN: 10 pack for 40 bucks! I got it from them in 2 days. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/121398446816?lpid=82

 

Where's points 1 and 2 lol

 

sngldad:

I will start by saying I use M1 0w-40 in my Sonata, M1 EP 5w-20 in my 4Runner and have used M1 for years with never a oil issue.

Is M1 the best, no. Based on testing Pennzoil Ultra and Platinum are but they are gone. "Overrated and Not a bad oil", all M1 oils rate near the top of each category including near the top of the NOACK numbers.

Nearly all synthetics are superior to conventional oils, so you saying M1 is "not bad" and "major brand conventionals are excellent" is wrong too.

 

I like the longer duration between synthetic oil changes.

 

sngldad:Is M1 the best, no. Based on testing Pennzoil Ultra and Platinum are but they are gone. ".

Pennzoil PUP (Platinum Ultra Plus) is on the shelves and I would say comparable to M1 EP, Amsoil Signature Series etc.

For 99.9% of drivers any so called synthetic (which is probably a highly refined petroleum product) will be fine for at least 7,500 mile intervals, probably more. True synthetics, Pennzoil PUP, M1 EP, Amsoil Signature, Redline etc, for the average driver not worth the price unless you go beyond the 10,000 mile mark.

Todays conventionals probably good to 7500 as well.

 

From what i read Pennzoil pup had one of the the highest wear protection when tested but they changed the Pennzoil Ultra, API SM synthetic & was replaced by API “SN” version which does not have the same level of the prior version.

Here's how they compare to the previous version of these API SN oil's that were NOT made from natural gas.
• 5W30 Pennzoil Ultra, API SN synthetic = 92,569 psi
This was the original API SN version, that was NOT made from natural gas. This older oil's psi value is about 6.5% lower than the new natural gas version.
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD
The older API “SM” version of this oil, produced a wear protection capability value of 115,612 psi.

Source: http://blog.speedtalk.com/2014/07/test-data-on-newest-pennzoils-made-from.html#more

 

I can't ever find Pennzoil Ultra anywhere, just the regular Platinum. I don't know why stores around here won't stock it.

Anyways, I bought a gallon jug of Pennzoil Platinum yesterday at WalMart for $22.97. That's the cheapest I've seen it.

 

I can't ever find Pennzoil Ultra anywhere, just the regular Platinum. I don't know why stores around here won't stock it.Anyways, I bought a gallon jug of Pennzoil Platinum yesterday at WalMart for $22.97. That's the cheapest I've seen it.

You got a great oil and a really really good price.

 

Nearly all synthetics are superior to conventional oils, so you saying M1 is "not bad" and "major brand conventionals are excellent" is wrong too.

Are you serious? You realize 99% of the vehicles on the road are filled with conventional oil, right? I guess non of them will last because they're not filled with the magical, super elixir Mobil 1.

You probably change your Mobil 1 every 3000 miles, too.

Again, M1 is not bad. Its definitely a top shelf product, but so are Pennzoil Platinum, Castrol Syntec, Quaker State Ultimate Durability and Valvoline Synpower. Show me some credible data that proves M1 is vastly superior to any of the brands I mentioned.

And yes, major brand conventional(and most house brand) oils ARE excellent at what they do and they have their purpose.

 

You probably change your Mobil 1 every 3000 miles, too.

I totally agree with your "frustration".
If you hedge against HMA declining powertrain warranty and change your oil every 3K-4K miles it does not matter what oil you use. Even if you change it every 7K miles, it does not matter as long as specs match requirements. If you are trying to extend oil change interval beyond schedule indicated by manufacturer you may want to experiment with synthetic and do UOAs but "I ain't got time for that" when my dealer charges $20-$30 for the service which also includes car wash and OEM filter.

 

Synthetics Make sense for some of us. For example, my 1993 Ford Ranger averages less that 600 miles per year. Most of the time it only gets started and driven once, maybe twice a month.

My 2010 Toyota is my primary back and forth to work car, it driven 1.2 miles to work and then 1.2 miles home. It almost never gets warmed up, especially in winter. The Toyota barely has 30,000 miles on it.

For me its piece of mind, IMO, synthetics can handle that type of abuse better than conventional. Both these cars use M1 5W30.

My 2012 Honda Civic EX Requires 0W20. So I decided to use the same thing for my 2013 Sonata. In any case, the Sonata requires an oil change every 6 months and the Civic (according to the Oil Life Monitor) needs an oil change once a year (that's around 9500 Miles). Both these vehicles use M1 0W20 AFE.

Again, for me its about piece of mind

So is Mobil 1 the best? maybe not, its just the one I choose.

 

In my view, instead of trying to figure out the best oil for your car, check oil level weekly, you will do your car bigger favor by following this advice. And, there is also a chance you detect your engine consumes the honey colored liquid before the issue causes damage and HMA leaves you high and dry as it should in such a case.

 

The problem that I have is that there is NO name. Who is the author? A source is considered reliable if it is verifiable. Also where were all these tests done?

Also in most cases a reliable source is published in a peer reviewable journal or book or its published in a specialist magazines or newspapers of agreed high repute. But the key is peer reviewable.

I have a lot of problems with that article.

 

As far as i can tell his name is Rick Johnson. I dont know who the guy is but i did like the article. I didn't think it was a peer reviewed scientific paper, just an in depth review of oil brands and their protection level. Anyone who wrote that much on oil is either an expert or a complete BS artist. Now you have my curiosity sparked. I wonder if he is a fraud? we shall see >

 

I don't think he is a fraud, its a well written article. And overall, I like it.

But I would love to verify some of the information in it.

 

I started a flame war, sorry.

I change my oil my 2.0T at the Hyundai OCI of 5,000 miles. I wish M1 made Extended Performance in 40 weight oil.

 

I think the 5w-20 that most dealers stock would be an adequate oil for standard use,The only scenario I see it failing is under severe load conditions like towing or drag racing/track days.
Following the 3-5K intervals should give long engine life.

I would like to see the dealers use the correct viscosity but that is just not going to happen across the board.I have never kept a vehicle for 10 years and never had one I drover over 100K.I am 44 yrs old and I like swapping vehicles out before they get past the warranty.

If I planned on keeping a car for ever I would do all the work myself that was possible,but this new Santa Fe is going to the dealer for all the service needed to keep any warranty disputes at bay.They can put what ever crap ola oil in they want and if the motor throws a rod then they will pay the cost of the less than stellar service history.

 

I started a flame war, sorry.

Nah, just a little spirited debate.

Oil is a passionate subject among gear heads.

 

Keep in mind, that article only deals with wear protection. There's much more to oil than just wear protection.

 

Now I know your an Amsoil Dealer...but based on your statement. Do you think there are aspects the Mobile 1 WON'T cover within the context I posted?

Roman

 

I did my first change at 6900 miles and sent it in to blackstone labs for an analysis. They showed the oil was completely worn out and no longer protecting the engine. Not sure what they put in these vehicles at the factory but ****, that's crappy stuff.


The TBN in the report is the amount of protection left in the oil. It should be over 1.0 to be protecting engine parts adequately.


I went to mobile one and did another analysis at 5K and the oil was still good and could have been used for many more miles.


Bottom line is you can't judge an oil without an lab analysis and you can't pick an interval without a lab analysis.
Blackstone Labs

 

I've had some Mobil 1 5w30 analyzed three times on my 2L turbo. It never has come back as out of spec. All have been at 5k miles. One had two track days on it.

 

Wow Big Shasta, the oil analysis was a surprise. Do we know what oil Hyundai uses, I guess we can assume Quaker State given that they advertise in our manuals.

Red Raspberry; did you have your original oil analyzed or just M1? Do we know what weight Hyundai put in our 2.0L?

 

Wow Big Shasta, the oil analysis was a surprise. Do we know what oil Hyundai uses, I guess we can assume Quaker State given that they advertise in our manuals.

Red Raspberry; did you have your original oil analyzed or just M1? Do we know what weight Hyundai put in our 2.0L?

No I did not have the OEM oil analyzed. I changed it out at 2000 miles. I assume on my 2010 Gen Coupe that 5w20 came in it as that is what the oil cap says.