ok, what i have dug up so far. Remove 2 ac compressor mounting bolts then pan bolts. Well the ac compressor has a belt on it. Do i have to touch the serpentine belt or can i just let it sort of hang there. Will the ac mounting bolts clear the crossmember? Please help, i have no transportation until this is fixed. I dont want to mess with the serpentine belt if i dont have too. Those can be a bit of a pita. Anyone else tackle replacing oil pan on a Santa fe 2.4?

 

do you have any pictures? I about a month ago replaced mt oil pan on my 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe V6 2.7 as it was rusting out and oil was seeping through it i have a few pics which i will upload here for you, does your pan look like this one? (last picture)

 

no, this is a 2.4 4 cylinder. But thank you for helping. Maybe i need to post in another models forum that has 2.4. I am dying here.

 

Do them quite a few times.. piece of cake.. drain oil ,,, OOOOOPs, you already did that..

(2) lower bolt for A/C,, leave A/C belt on..

(4) hex head bolt for bracket to oil pan,, tap with hammer and it fall out

(2) 12mm 12 point bolt there where bracket was residing

(x) oil pan bolts via 10mm socket

This is where it get fun.. I use a putty knife with flat bottom and taper on other side to make sharp single edge knife for lack of better description.. use that with hammer to tap between oil pan rail and aluminum flange very carefully to cut the RTV grip.. get it enough and you can use screwdriver in gap to make slight load to pull pan remaining grip.. DO NOT DAMAGE the aluminum surface..

I use wire wheel cup and carefully remove remnant goo from engine side, and finish off with red scotch brite pad (I get old ones from our body shop) and finish wipe rail.. apply bead of RTV to pan (wipe pan rail with non-residue solvent).. and wipe engine side of oil, then get pan stuck to engine before oil run out and bite your rail..

Install all the small 6mm bolts and the (4) 8mm bolt for the bracket (leave bracket off, we just starting bolts in holes for align), and the (2) long 8mm 12pt bolts.... tighten the 6mm bolts to 54 in-lb... torque the (2) 12pt bolt to 23 lb-ft,, remove the (4) 8mm braket bolt, and re-install bracket to 20 lb-ft... install the compressor bolt to 20 lb-ft..

Leave RTV sit for as long as possible before add oil and engine running pressure..

Start Fri after work,, have pan off in maybe 35 minute,, have pan back on,, leave sit all weekend, add oil Sunday afternoon late, carry on..

Warranty time is 1hr off & on.. customer sitting in lounge waiting, so it has no time to get a good cure on, and wonder why it leaks again

 

EDIT your "DRIVES" profile to reflect your "2010 Santa Fe 2.4L AWD" so it shows up under your username for all to see..

 

Accidental dupe.. Mr Moderator, please remedy for me

 

It wasnt answered in the santa fe. Thats why i posted in this sonata forum. I am in a really bad position and just need to know how to replace an oil pan on a 2.4. I am desperate. the only answer i got in the santa fe was for a v6. This is a 2.4 4cylinder.

 

Refer to post 5..

I have done more 2.4L Theta pan than anybody know about.. piece of cake, though messy with oil dripping and needing to assemble clean and dry

 

SBR, all i saw there were 2 long bolts going to the bracket through the ac compressor(lower bolts). Then the bracket bolting up to the pan(4 hex heads). Where are the other?(2)

(2) lower bolt for A/C,, leave A/C belt on..

(4) hex head bolt for bracket to oil pan,, tap with hammer and it fall out

(2) 12mm 12 point bolt there where bracket was residing

 

Read slowly your post --

Written in order of removal

A - (4) hex head bolt for bracket to oil pan,, tap with hammer and it fall out

B - (2) 12mm 12 point bolt there where bracket was residing

 

Thank you very much for your help sbr711. I understand now. Maybe hidden until the part is removed.

 

Update on this job. First off SBR711 thank you soo much for your advice. I would never have tried to do this had you not explained the procedure. Some pans you have to remove crossmembers, raise motors etc. This wasnt that bad, but it took a bad turn with me. I dont think Hyundai uses anti seize when they assemble their motors. I broke 2 of the 6 mm pan bolts removing them. TIP if you are going to do this and you feel any resistance at all with the pan bolts, spray with a penetrant and let it sit. If you break the bolts you are in for a world of pain. I drilled one out and used an easy out. Came out ok. Second one i didnt get a true drill going and buggered up the hole pretty bad. Luckily i could run a 6m 1.00 tap through and still got it to torque down. I made sure to put anti seize on the bolts going back in. Another note. the backing nut for the drain pan plug is only tacked in with four tiny dots. Very Very sketchy design for a bolt that gets continually removed and replaced. I bought an aftermarket dorman pan hoping it was put together better. It looks exactly the same. All, be very careful with your drain plugs. This looks like it will be a headache for alot of people. I didnt break this one. The previouse snappy lube crossthreaded it and it broke when i went to remove. Best wishes to all. And thanks again SBR711. These forums are great.