At first I was thinking hard braking = oil sloshing combined with low oil causing the sump to go empty. But now you are saying that level is good.

May be a faulty oil pressure switch. Let the dealer take a look.


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At first I was thinking hard braking = oil sloshing combined with low oil causing the sump to go empty. But now you are saying that level is good.

May be a faulty oil pressure switch. Let the dealer take a look.


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Earliest I can get it in is Thursday. Probably some kind of electrical problem. Again. The temps are good and I would assume the pressure is OK as if it was not, I would always have the light on. I wonder if this could be related to the new battery and brake light switch?

 

I had the same thought at Pare John at first, but then another thought came to mind -- more from the 'old days' of things like the 'anti-stall dashpot' on a carb. By any chance are your engine RPMs dropping VERY low in response to the fast braking? Have you noted that?

 

No, I have not noted this. The heater fan was on pretty hard due to the cold snap we've had.

 

Easy enough to check in a parking lot some evening when there's not much of anybody around. Get running and hit the brakes hard, then watch both the tach and the oil light. If the engine is very nearly stalling due to braking, the low RPM could explain the light.

 

i'd start by swapping out the filter and see if that solves the problem, a visual inspection won't tell you much unless things are grossly out of whack. failing that, on to the stealer...

 

IMO, that filter is questionable?
By the way, a Wix filter is made by Fram, They're all I've used in the past, but after quite a bit of reading lately, the general consensus is they're garbage! I would replace that filter with a Hyundai one, I read they're better then most, plus your warrantee is safe.

 

IMO, that filter is questionable?
By the way, a Wix filter is made by Fram, They're all I've used in the past, but after quite a bit of reading lately, the general consensus is they're garbage! I would replace that filter with a Hyundai one, I read they're better then most, plus your warranty is safe.

I would put money on it and say that Hyundai filters are made by Fram, they make most OEM filters. If you hold both together you'll see they are identical!

I agree about the questionable filters, there's a lot of 'Junk' filters made in the far east and labeled as Fram, Wix, Crosland, Donaldson etc. etc. Be careful where you purchase your filters from. Don't buy off eBay many are bad.

 

Watch carefully on 3rd party filters. At least some brands are importing the 'yellow' colored filters from Korea (check the country of origin on the package) that are absolutely indistinguishable from the OEM filter... probably coming out of the same factory.

 

I always feel it best to use OE filters

 

By the way, a Wix filter is made by Fram, They're all I've used in the past, but after quite a bit of reading lately, the general consensus is they're garbage!

Since when Fram makes Wix filters?
Any specifics on the "lately reading and on the general consensus"?

 

the wix filters and known for falling apart.

 

The WIX filters are known to be of high design and workmanship quality.

 

Thanks for the help everyone.

The engine RPMs were unaffected (meaning they did not drop to anything stall worthy) by hard braking. I took it to the dealer and it is a bad Oil Pressure Switch. There are no signs of any leaks by it (because no oil is going down the side of the pan) and I have been advised that it is perfectly safe to drive my Santa Fe as long as I check for leaks everyday until the new pressure switch comes in early next week.

 

That is good to hear.

 

An excellent resolution.

 

Sorry for bumping this back to the top, but are oil pressure switches a common issue on this vintage of Santa Fe?

I too have a 2011 Santa Fe 3.5L AWD (60,000 kms), and just this morning I noticed that my oil light comes on only at idle. Coincidentally, I live in the same city as Kravchenko, and it was REALLY cold this morning, as in -42 with the windchill factored in.

Anyway, I booked an appointment at the dealership tomorrow, so I'll let everyone know what the problem is as well.

 

I think that was the first oil pressure switch we've seen reported, so at least here, we don't hear of this problem.

 

Interesting. I drove this afternoon, and no oil light. I'm taking it in tomorrow anyway just for peace of mind. I'll update the thread when I get it back.

 

@jneuf
At -42, I guess I'm not surprised that even 5W-whatever doesn't show immediate pressure. It's like starting out your morning with peanut butter in your crankcase. Those kinds of temps really call for 0W-whatever oil, or a block heater, whichever comes first!

 

That is -42 with wind. Car does not feel wind. I run 5w and even when it goes down to -30 I have no issues.


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+1. Every replacement filter I've seen so far for the Santa Fe shows the country of origin as Korea (and when this came up in times past, I checked -- and Fram has no Korean factory), and the paper color is not one I've ever seen Fram use for their filters.

 

Dealer just called, confirmed it was the oil pressure switch. I guess I'm the 2nd!

 

Hello,

2011 Santa Fe with 3.5L V6 and AWD, 38000 Kms:

Very recent work (last month or so) - new battery (old one had a bad cell), brake light switch and for a repair of the seat adjustment bar (not sure what it is called). The most recent oil change was done by me in November and I have only put about 1600 kms on it since. I put 5W20 Castrol Syntec and a made in Korea WIX filter. I fill the oil to just a hair below the top dot on the dip stick. I torque everything properly.

OIL LIGHT PROBLEM:

When I was driving home from work this evening, I had to brake a little harder than I normally would when I was turning into the back lane (about 8 houses from my house). I thought I saw the oil light come on, but I wasn't sure. I continued down the lane when someone walked out in front of me and I had to brake again. This time, the oil light did come on for sure and then went off when I took the brakes off. It was -20 C outside, so I continued to my house which was now 4 homes away. I braked to go into my (heated!) garage and the light came on again as soon as I touched the brakes.

I decided to let the car sit for an hour to get an accurate reading on the dip stick. I checked it and the level read exactly where I had filled it - just a touch below the top dot. I took the oil filter out to check that it was still seated properly and was not obviously clogged. It looked just fine. No signs of any leaks in the engine compartment or under the vehicle. I decided to take the car out again to go around the block - maybe not a great idea. The light didn't come on again when I braked until the vehicle had warmed up again.

What could the problem be?

I guess I need to take it in, but I start work at 7 AM and my wife is on maternity leave and she needs a car tomorrow. So, this means me taking the Yaris is out. She can't take the Santa Fe to the dealer with my infant son and so I guess I have to get it towed. This is bullshit. This POS has been in the shop several times since November. I can just feel it nickle and dime-ing me once warrenty is through.

I'm having the exact issue with my 2017 Sonata Sport as soon as the warranty is up. I just spent $600 to replace a computer in it 2 months ago, I'm so annoyed. What was the outcome of your situation?