So I was going to do my own oil change this weekend and I noticed there was oil all around the bottom plastic cover. I thought that the guys from the dealership did not do a good job of cleaning the bottom of the car after they did the last oil change. Hence why I am doing it now. I realize after cleaning everything that there seems to be a small leak around the gasket where the oil pan meets the bottom of the engine on the back side where the drain plug would be. Has anyone else looked to see if they are leaking too? I didnt change the oil and will be taking the car in for repair this week.
Oil Leak around oil pan and bottom end!
Mrtheplague
21 - 40 of 94 Posts
Hi,
Does anyone have the torque value and sequence for reinstalling the oil pan? I can't find it in the HMA service manual.
I too have a leaky oil pan after 4K. I'm just going to use the 'right stuff - grey'
I don't have very much confidence in dealers fixing my cars. Unless it's a major mechanical problem, then I will do the repair myself. At least I know it's done right with the TLC that needs to be given.
Does anyone have the torque value and sequence for reinstalling the oil pan? I can't find it in the HMA service manual.
I too have a leaky oil pan after 4K. I'm just going to use the 'right stuff - grey'
I don't have very much confidence in dealers fixing my cars. Unless it's a major mechanical problem, then I will do the repair myself. At least I know it's done right with the TLC that needs to be given.
Just wanted to add I also have an oil leak around the pan somewhere.
At first I just thought it was the drain plug, but the leak has persisted through several oil changes. I change the crush washer each time and tighten to spec using a torque wrench, so I'm fairly certain it isn't the drain plug.
The oil drips down onto the heat shield and pools there. When the engine is warmed up, the stench of used oil coming in through the climate control system is so bad I can no longer use fresh air. This results in the absurd spectacle of cranking the heater with recirculated air while driving with the windows cracked in cold weather to keep the windows from fogging. When I pull into my garage, the stench of used oil fills the garage and seeps into the house.
The leak is small and I've never had to add any oil to top off, but it is rather ridiculous a newer car is already leaking oil. I regret buying a new model year vehicle (2011).
I'll be taking it into the dealership service department this week or next. They really gave me a run-around in replacing the front struts to correct the left pull, so I'm not confident they'll be quick to fix this problem. I've been gathering my documentation and reading up on this problem and going over the warranty booklet in preparation. This thread has been very useful in this process and I wanted to thank the posters who have contributed.
At first I just thought it was the drain plug, but the leak has persisted through several oil changes. I change the crush washer each time and tighten to spec using a torque wrench, so I'm fairly certain it isn't the drain plug.
The oil drips down onto the heat shield and pools there. When the engine is warmed up, the stench of used oil coming in through the climate control system is so bad I can no longer use fresh air. This results in the absurd spectacle of cranking the heater with recirculated air while driving with the windows cracked in cold weather to keep the windows from fogging. When I pull into my garage, the stench of used oil fills the garage and seeps into the house.
The leak is small and I've never had to add any oil to top off, but it is rather ridiculous a newer car is already leaking oil. I regret buying a new model year vehicle (2011).
I'll be taking it into the dealership service department this week or next. They really gave me a run-around in replacing the front struts to correct the left pull, so I'm not confident they'll be quick to fix this problem. I've been gathering my documentation and reading up on this problem and going over the warranty booklet in preparation. This thread has been very useful in this process and I wanted to thank the posters who have contributed.
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Should the oil and filter be changed when this is done?
Well I just resealed the oil pan myself yesterday with the 'right stuff - grey'. It was quite the job, but not too bad. The hardest part was pulling off the oil pan, as the silicone sealant they used really stuck to the pan and block. I also changed the drain plug to a magnetic one and used a copper/brass crush washer. I too found that the drain bolt has to be torqued to spec so it will not leak.
I guess only time will will tell to see if this will fix the leak.
I guess only time will will tell to see if this will fix the leak.
Get yourself a FUMOTO oil valve instead and your problem will be solved . Fumoto Valve | Qwik Valve™
I installed mine at the first oil change. They have several different models but the regular one without a nipple works just fine and that is the one I have.
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17,570 Posts
Why not do it about the time of next oil change, then you not losing anything, other than some time without car..
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591 Posts
I'm taking my car to get the oil pan gasket fixed tomorrow. The said it only needs to sit about an hour to fully cure. Is that long enough?
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433 Posts
Hi everyone, I just traded my 09 Sonata for a 11 Sonata Limited 2.0T. I have spent the past couple days searching the posts and catching up on the turbos.
This oil leaks sounds common, around what mileage did you notice the leak? I haven't had a chance to look at the oil pan b/c I've only had the car since Saturday, but oil was just changed and is the the Full mark. I'm at 23,000 miles now so just curious if this is something that is noticed early like around 5,000 miles or later 20,000 miles...I did see a leak @ 4k mentioned above. Thank you
This oil leaks sounds common, around what mileage did you notice the leak? I haven't had a chance to look at the oil pan b/c I've only had the car since Saturday, but oil was just changed and is the the Full mark. I'm at 23,000 miles now so just curious if this is something that is noticed early like around 5,000 miles or later 20,000 miles...I did see a leak @ 4k mentioned above. Thank you
Well to add to add to this thread, I think hyundai uses a threebond product. I was looking around the HMA website and they were saying that the sealing product they were using has changed from a TSB. Anyway, I think 'the right stuff - grey' is great. I cleaned up both surfaces and appled the rtv. Then I pushed up the pan up and and installed all the bolts just snug. I left it sit there for 45min and came back and applied full torque. Once the pan was torqued up, I let it sit for an hour put everything back together, then filled it back up with oil.
I read a lot about the fumoto valve, and I just don't want it. I have been changing oil for years, and I just want the drain plug to work the way its supposed to. The yellow teflon is working like a charm, no leaks. My next project is to try a ford/gm style oil drain plug with a permanite gasket then ill never have to fuss with the crush washer.
To comment on the post about how many miles, I think if you find the car and driver long term test on the sonata, they also had a oil pan leak. Resealed under warrenty, but leaking none the less. I think they are using piss poor rtv and shotty application. When I pulled my pan off, i could see where they were a little short and that is where the leak began.
I read a lot about the fumoto valve, and I just don't want it. I have been changing oil for years, and I just want the drain plug to work the way its supposed to. The yellow teflon is working like a charm, no leaks. My next project is to try a ford/gm style oil drain plug with a permanite gasket then ill never have to fuss with the crush washer.
To comment on the post about how many miles, I think if you find the car and driver long term test on the sonata, they also had a oil pan leak. Resealed under warrenty, but leaking none the less. I think they are using piss poor rtv and shotty application. When I pulled my pan off, i could see where they were a little short and that is where the leak began.
When you source the right one, please post the details. I think the crush washers on both of my cars are a pain and would like to use the ford style plug.
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I ask because when the dealer did the pan they did not change the filter. Just the oil.Why not do it about the time of next oil change, then you not losing anything, other than some time without car..
Update on my oil pan leak.
I took the car in for the problem to the dealership on 1/24. Oil was discovered leaking down the back side of the pan. They also found two bolts they claimed were not tightened to spec on the oil pan and they tightened them and told me to wait and see and if that didn't fix the leak they would have to order a new oil pan and reseal it.
Tightening the bolts obviously did not fix the problem. I think we're all aware at this point the problem is with the sealant substance. Within two days I was already smelling the stench of used oil when the engine warmed up.
I took the car back in on 2/14 (and boy, is the wife enthusiastic about this on Valentine's Day) and they are currently working on it. I was told the new sealant will take five hours to cure, but that was the attendant talking, not the tech, so who knows if that is accurate or not.
I asked them to use the new oil I provided to refill the engine (Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30). I was concerned about them erroneously filling the engine with bulk fill 5W-20 like we've seen a lot of people with turbo Sonatas experiencing here on the forums. Since the car was due for an oil change, I also provided a K+N oil filter and asked them to change that as well. While the oil pan repair was obviously covered under warranty, they told me they'd have to charge me labor for the oil filter. So I'm paying some guy $20 labor to spend three minutes changing the oil filter on an engine he's already drained the oil out of anyway, and I've saved them money to begin with by supplying the oil to fill the engine back up with. Delightful. I offered to do it myself if they'd just let me under the lift for a few minutes and look the other way, even offered to use my own tools, but they declined due to liability issues. At this point I'm sure I'll show up to pick up the car and find a $17 surcharge for a twenty cent aluminum crush washer since I forgot to bring them one.
I'll post another update when I get the car back for a few days and ascertain if they were actually able to fix the problem.
Oh, and since someone asked, this problem began to occur at about 7000 miles.
I took the car in for the problem to the dealership on 1/24. Oil was discovered leaking down the back side of the pan. They also found two bolts they claimed were not tightened to spec on the oil pan and they tightened them and told me to wait and see and if that didn't fix the leak they would have to order a new oil pan and reseal it.
Tightening the bolts obviously did not fix the problem. I think we're all aware at this point the problem is with the sealant substance. Within two days I was already smelling the stench of used oil when the engine warmed up.
I took the car back in on 2/14 (and boy, is the wife enthusiastic about this on Valentine's Day) and they are currently working on it. I was told the new sealant will take five hours to cure, but that was the attendant talking, not the tech, so who knows if that is accurate or not.
I asked them to use the new oil I provided to refill the engine (Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30). I was concerned about them erroneously filling the engine with bulk fill 5W-20 like we've seen a lot of people with turbo Sonatas experiencing here on the forums. Since the car was due for an oil change, I also provided a K+N oil filter and asked them to change that as well. While the oil pan repair was obviously covered under warranty, they told me they'd have to charge me labor for the oil filter. So I'm paying some guy $20 labor to spend three minutes changing the oil filter on an engine he's already drained the oil out of anyway, and I've saved them money to begin with by supplying the oil to fill the engine back up with. Delightful. I offered to do it myself if they'd just let me under the lift for a few minutes and look the other way, even offered to use my own tools, but they declined due to liability issues. At this point I'm sure I'll show up to pick up the car and find a $17 surcharge for a twenty cent aluminum crush washer since I forgot to bring them one.
I'll post another update when I get the car back for a few days and ascertain if they were actually able to fix the problem.
Oh, and since someone asked, this problem began to occur at about 7000 miles.
And my final update. The problem seems to (hopefully) be fixed.
The dealership installed a new oil pan assembly, drain plug, and gray RTV silicone gasket sealant. It was given five hours to dry. Those repairs were under warranty.
Four days later and there is a residual smell of oil in the cabin when on fresh air circulation, but I'm hoping that is just residue.
The dealership installed a new oil pan assembly, drain plug, and gray RTV silicone gasket sealant. It was given five hours to dry. Those repairs were under warranty.
Four days later and there is a residual smell of oil in the cabin when on fresh air circulation, but I'm hoping that is just residue.
2011 Sonata GL here.
70,000 KM and my local (non-Hyundai affiliated) shop noticed the seeping around the backside of the oil-pan gasket during an oil change.
Have it booked to take in for warranty repair at a Hyundai dealer this Saturday. The service person on the phone seemed to be aware that this was a common issue, as she knew right away to tell me that they would have to keep the car for half the day, and she responded quickly that it was covered as warranty work when I described the issue.
I'm hoping the gasket material they use to replace it is of better quality than that from the factory...
70,000 KM and my local (non-Hyundai affiliated) shop noticed the seeping around the backside of the oil-pan gasket during an oil change.
Have it booked to take in for warranty repair at a Hyundai dealer this Saturday. The service person on the phone seemed to be aware that this was a common issue, as she knew right away to tell me that they would have to keep the car for half the day, and she responded quickly that it was covered as warranty work when I described the issue.
I'm hoping the gasket material they use to replace it is of better quality than that from the factory...
Hi all, my earlier repair didn't work. It began leaking again after 1000 miles. I took it to the dealership this time and they replaced the entire oil pan as they said the old pan was deformed. We'll see if the fix they did will finally fix the dreaded oil pan leak.
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621 Posts
VERY common! I see it everyday! On SFS 2.0, YF sonata 2.4/2.0 Take it to the dealer and have them reseal it.
And the saga continues.
After the replacement and resealing of the oil pan on my 2011 Sonata SE Turbo in February of 2013, I began to notice the stench of used oil in the cabin on fresh air circulation a few days later. I removed the underbody cover for what must be the tenth time to investigate and found it was covered in pooled oil once again. So the leak is back. I took it to the dealership, again, on Friday of last week and was told it is leaking from the same spot, where the oil pan seals to the engine block, on the backside.
I was told they couldn't really do much with it since they didn't "have the right guy" that day. They performed a brake switch safety recall and thoughtfully left the old switch in the middle of the passenger seat for my wife to sit on.
I was told to bring the car back a few days later when "the right guy" is back at work and they said they were going to pull the oil pan off again and check the mating and tolerances using some sort of "special" tool (?). If they find it isn't seating correctly they will be installing a new engine block (!). That seems a bit extreme, and I'm unsure if we're talking a complete block or a short block here, but I guess that is why we buy a car with a 10 year warranty. I'm already enthusiastically looking forward to selling a car with an engine block swap a few years down the road.
This will be the last Hyundai vehicle I purchase in my lifetime.
After the replacement and resealing of the oil pan on my 2011 Sonata SE Turbo in February of 2013, I began to notice the stench of used oil in the cabin on fresh air circulation a few days later. I removed the underbody cover for what must be the tenth time to investigate and found it was covered in pooled oil once again. So the leak is back. I took it to the dealership, again, on Friday of last week and was told it is leaking from the same spot, where the oil pan seals to the engine block, on the backside.
I was told they couldn't really do much with it since they didn't "have the right guy" that day. They performed a brake switch safety recall and thoughtfully left the old switch in the middle of the passenger seat for my wife to sit on.
I was told to bring the car back a few days later when "the right guy" is back at work and they said they were going to pull the oil pan off again and check the mating and tolerances using some sort of "special" tool (?). If they find it isn't seating correctly they will be installing a new engine block (!). That seems a bit extreme, and I'm unsure if we're talking a complete block or a short block here, but I guess that is why we buy a car with a 10 year warranty. I'm already enthusiastically looking forward to selling a car with an engine block swap a few years down the road.
This will be the last Hyundai vehicle I purchase in my lifetime.
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