Nothing was wrong with my transmission but I was told by the mechanic that the transmission the flywheel was attached to had 50,000 miles on it and might as well put in the newer transmission as it would be just as much work as changing out just the flywheel. Left the mechanic still having the same problem. Just $1,500 lighter.

Unfortunately I think you were taken by a dishonest mechanic. Happens to a lot of people but women seem to get it more often. If you have a small claims court that may be an option to get money back.

Fast forward 4 months to being told that the mechanic probably didn't do the work he claimed he did.

That's probably true. Getting an affidavit would help in small claims court.

...and I had the starter replaced again. Now I press the button the starter engages I hear it whine but the Bendix I believe is not coming out because I don't hear the engine trying to turn at all.

It's time you raised **** with the mechanic and get this fixed for free. He was supposed to fix this the first time.

How could three starters all have the same Bendix issue?

Here in U.S.A. rebuilt starters from parts stores are notorious for high failure rates. But I think your mechanics are also notorious for high failure rates - if not outright dishonesty.

Is there an electrical circuit that engages the Bendix as opposed to the starter?

Usually the Bendix engagement is mechanical as the starter turns. There is a thread like winding on the Bendix shaft which winds the Bendix into place onto the flywheel. A spring usually returns the Bendix gear to rest position when the starter is electrically disengaged.

I think you need to find an honest mechanic before anything else. Hard, I know. Maybe it is time for the dealer as cheap labor rates have not worked out for you.

 

Unfortunately I think you were taken by a dishonest mechanic. Happens to a lot of people but women seem to get it more often. If you have a small claims court that may be an option to get money back.



That's probably true. Getting an affidavit would help in small claims court.



It's time you raised **** with the mechanic and get this fixed for free. He was supposed to fix this the first time.



Here in U.S.A. rebuilt starters from parts stores are notorious for high failure rates. But I think your mechanics are also notorious for high failure rates - if not outright dishonesty.



Usually the Bendix engagement is mechanical as the starter turns. There is a thread like winding on the Bendix shaft which winds the Bendix into place onto the flywheel. A spring usually returns the Bendix gear to rest position when the starter is electrically disengaged.

I think you need to find an honest mechanic before anything else. Hard, I know. Maybe it is time for the dealer as cheap labor rates have not worked out for you.

Had my cousin replace the starter (paid extra.for a new one) this last time. Also to be clear when I say 3 starters with same issue
The first was the OEM that came with the car when bought new. Second was the one replaced by the mechanic at a local garage. Third was the one just replaced with a new starter by my cousin who was an auto pool mechanic in the military. The starters are good there is something breaking down somewhere thats not allowing the bendix to engage regularly. Now with this last change the starter is just "turning" but the bendix is not engaging the flywheel. Cant actually see because its inside a housing.

 

I have a Hyundai sonata limited 2015. Buy at 20,000 MI. Never an issue with my push button start until about 80k. Sometimes would need to hit my start button a couple times to get it to start. It always would start eventually so never made a big deal about it. Overtime it was taking two, three, four, up to 10 times of pressing the push button to get it to start. All electronics would engage and sometimes you would hear the starter whine but not engage the motor then the next press or maybe the next four presses it would start up car would run fine. Finally in October when I hit 110,000 miles in my warranty was void the car decided to not start anymore. Had starter battery and flywheel and transmission replaced. Nothing was wrong with my transmission but I was told by the mechanic that the transmission the flywheel was attached to had 50,000 miles on it and might as well put in the newer transmission as it would be just as much work as changing out just the flywheel. Left the mechanic still having the same problem. Just $1,500 lighter.
Fast forward 4 months to being told that the mechanic probably didn't do the work he claimed he did. As I was still having the same issue and sometimes it would take up to 10 presses to get the car to start sometimes would start on first press. Those first press starts we're getting fewer and farther between. Finally Friday morning car wouldn't start and I had the starter replaced again. Now I press the button the starter engages I hear it whine but the Bendix I believe is not coming out because I don't hear the engine trying to turn at all. The first mechanic did say that he believed it was bendix issue also. How could three starters all have the same Bendix issue? Is there an electrical circuit that engages the Bendix as opposed to the starter? I've read about other people having this issue in cold weather I live in New England so the weather is cold here but I've had this issue in cold and warm weather at this point. Don't have more money to just have mechanics keep guessing and throwing in the car and I can't even begin to think about affording dealer rates unfortunately. I'm a single mom with three kids who can barely make my car payment never mind huge mechanic bills. I know I'll have to fix whatever is wrong I just am hoping that someone will be able to figure out what's wrong instead of everyone keep guessing in the dark or replacing same parts.
I want to thank everybody in advance for reading this and taking their time to respond.

it's very difficult to say anything here, because I'm not sure they've replaced it all for you. If the starter is really new, then the bendix is not the reason, there are still starter relays and bad weight on the starter, let the mechanic apply 12 volts from the battery to the starter and see when the car starts. And it will be necessary to look for the mechanic who will receive money for elimination of malfunction, instead of the done work

I have a Hyundai sonata limited 2015. Buy at 20,000 MI. Never an issue with my push button start until about 80k. Sometimes would need to hit my start button a couple times to get it to start. It always would start eventually so never made a big deal about it. Overtime it was taking two, three, four, up to 10 times of pressing the push button to get it to start. All electronics would engage and sometimes you would hear the starter whine but not engage the motor then the next press or maybe the next four presses it would start up car would run fine. Finally in October when I hit 110,000 miles in my warranty was void the car decided to not start anymore. Had starter battery and flywheel and transmission replaced. Nothing was wrong with my transmission but I was told by the mechanic that the transmission the flywheel was attached to had 50,000 miles on it and might as well put in the newer transmission as it would be just as much work as changing out just the flywheel. Left the mechanic still having the same problem. Just $1,500 lighter.
Fast forward 4 months to being told that the mechanic probably didn't do the work he claimed he did. As I was still having the same issue and sometimes it would take up to 10 presses to get the car to start sometimes would start on first press. Those first press starts we're getting fewer and farther between. Finally Friday morning car wouldn't start and I had the starter replaced again. Now I press the button the starter engages I hear it whine but the Bendix I believe is not coming out because I don't hear the engine trying to turn at all. The first mechanic did say that he believed it was bendix issue also. How could three starters all have the same Bendix issue? Is there an electrical circuit that engages the Bendix as opposed to the starter? I've read about other people having this issue in cold weather I live in New England so the weather is cold here but I've had this issue in cold and warm weather at this point. Don't have more money to just have mechanics keep guessing and throwing in the car and I can't even begin to think about affording dealer rates unfortunately. I'm a single mom with three kids who can barely make my car payment never mind huge mechanic bills. I know I'll have to fix whatever is wrong I just am hoping that someone will be able to figure out what's wrong instead of everyone keep guessing in the dark or replacing same parts.
I want to thank everybody in advance for reading this and taking their time to respond.

it's very difficult to say anything here, because I'm not sure they've replaced it all for you. If the starter is really new, then the bendix is not the reason, there are still starter relays and bad weight on the starter, let the mechanic apply 12 volts from the battery to the starter and see when the car starts. And it will be necessary to look for the mechanic who will receive money for elimination of malfunction, instead of the done work

 

it's very difficult to say anything here, because I'm not sure they've replaced it all for you. If the starter is really new, then the bendix is not the reason, there are still starter relays and bad weight on the starter, let the mechanic apply 12 volts from the battery to the starter and see when the car starts. And it will be necessary to look for the mechanic who will receive money for elimination of malfunction, instead of the done work

it's very difficult to say anything here, because I'm not sure they've replaced it all for you. If the starter is really new, then the bendix is not the reason, there are still starter relays and bad weight on the starter, let the mechanic apply 12 volts from the battery to the starter and see when the car starts. And it will be necessary to look for the mechanic who will receive money for elimination of malfunction, instead of the done work

Thank you for the suggestion about looking for a mechanic who will fix instead of just fleecing me. And yes the starter is new as my cousin changed this last one in front of my eyes. He actually believes the mechanic changed it also but is hard to tell as I have driven the car for 10k but he believes it looks newer.

 

If you're speaking of a separate relay for the starter, there isn't any on the car, just the solenoid. The ignition system isn't very complicated, just battery, solenoid, ignition switch, wiring and bat cables. As power seems to be flowing to the starter, the inhibitor switch along with the brake pedal switch
would be of no concern.
If junk AZ starter, or the like, it's like playing Russian Roulette, but testing is the way to go. The starter(s) can be tested when not on the vehicle, and even jumped quickly after installation. Battery 12.7 volts, same at starter, and 12 volts to solenoid when ignition switch/push button activated.
One can always do a voltage drop test just to check out of range resistance.

 

If you're speaking of a separate relay for the starter, there isn't any on the car, just the solenoid. The ignition system isn't very complicated, just battery, solenoid, ignition switch, wiring and bat cables. As power seems to be flowing to the starter, the inhibitor switch along with the brake pedal switch
would be of no concern.
If junk AZ starter, or the like, it's like playing Russian Roulette, but testing is the way to go. The starter(s) can be tested when not on the vehicle, and even jumped quickly after installation. Battery 12.7 volts, same at starter, and 12 volts to solenoid when ignition switch/push button activated.
One can always do a voltage drop test just to check out of range resistance.

 

Got me on that one, overlooked IGN 2.

 

Please explain the schematic and tell what it is so I can find one.
As it's coming up in Russian (I think) on my end. So the IGN 2 fuse could possibly be the issue? I was thinking of changing out all the fuses and relay just to be safe at this point as that hasnt been done yet.

 

Video so you can hear the new noise hopefully

 

Unless something is very different on a Sonata starter than every starter I've seen and replaced in 50 years. The bendix is activated (pushed / moves forward) due to the starter motor turning.

If you have replaced it it probably isn't the bendix or starter that is the problem. You can always bench test the starter by connecting to 12v when out and it should spin and the bendix move forward. Are you sure you are getting the correct replacement starter?

If you can hear the starter spinning and the engine doesnt turn I would inspect the flex plate for missing teeth. It cant have lost all of the teeth so you can also try rotating the engine a 1/4 turn and then the starter should engage.

 

I’m having the same problem with my 2015 sonata limited. I get free tests just in case I’m missing something, because one day randomly it decided to not start and the mechanic told me it may be the battery. I got the battery changed to a good battery everything is turning on, I can even hear the click for when you turn the car on under the hood. But my car is deciding to not turn on until 7 or 8 tries in the cold weather but 5 to 6 tries in warm. I’m looking for tips so I don’t spend too much money on something it couldn’t be.

 

Starter motor sticking, there is new part number for that starter too. if you have a 36100-2G210 starter, new number is 36100-2G250