Those are great numbers for what you have done so far!!!! Can’t wait to see what the JB4 does!!! Please keep us posted
Thanks

 

🤯

 

Wow those are some impressive numbers considering the couple of mods you have! Interested to see what the JB4 does for you. I'm considering one to wake up my Limited a bit, but we don't get 93 over here. Excited to see the results.

 

Burger the company that makes the JB4 is 20 miles from me and my self and others in the area have used their tuners on cars for a while.

On your 1.6T if you can only get 91 octane you will probably only be able to use "MAP 1" on the JB4. You will still get a performance improvement but not nearly as much as if you can use "MAP2", higher or a custom tune

 

So the torque got all fudged. Seems like the RPM monitor fudged some things up. Today though, HP was 335 to wheels with 93 and Map2. I’ll take it! Sent logs in so let’s see if they want to tweak it and squeeze a little with some safety.

 

 

Not too shabby! Sucks there's no lsd to help put it down, but gonna be deadly from a roll👻

 

I’m happy with it. IATs were 110 and up on the second roll. Definitely heat soak and the fans I guess were in a bad spot. So I think it had a few ponies. But honestly car feels great!

 

Amazing! With an approximate 20% Automatic trans loss that is about 400 crank HP!! Let me know if you can keep traction from a launch! I am trying to see if I can get it to not spin with launch control. I need to stiffen the rear shocks to reduce weight transfer on launch. If this thing can hook from a dig it will be a rocket!

 

Keep us updated

 

Hi Guys, Just FYI for all of you using these tuner kits and doing other mods....

Our Standard N Lines have 311 lbft torque = 43.54 kgf m. According to a Hyundai engine and transmission tech info site our 8speed Wet DCT can handle UP TO 53 kgf∙m.= 378 lbft. torque!!! 1 lbft = 0.14 kgf m (ie Kg Force Metres) Also The Wet 8DCT’s power transmission efficiency is 93.8%. Hope that helps and saves anyone trying to get MORE POWER/TORQUE from over stressing and damaging their very expensive to replace DCT !!

 

I am gonna sound real dumb here but I am gonna ask anyway...

According to the pre mod Dyno readings from the first post, the car has 294 hp at the wheels and 295 torque at the wheels. Does this mean the car actually has 313 hp and the crank and about the same torque?


Sent from somewhere you've never been.

 

Since our cars are stock at 290 HP and 311 lbft Torque I think you will find the extra power /torque he has is because he has intake and exhaust mods already fitted as per his comments, quoted from the 1st post-

"I have a SXTH Intake and a custom 3" Exhaust. With still having a factory throttle body and factory down pipe, I do not think they would make any real major improvements. Maybe a horsepower or two at most.

The car Dyno'd at 294whp and 295wtq. Quite impressive from the factory. Important to note I have 17,800 miles on the car and it has only seen 93 octane. This baseline was all Shell 93. Those are the circumstances of mods and fuel."

 

On my side, I have the JB4 on my N-line since last year. I used it in map1 with 91 oct and in map2 with 93 oct a couple weeks without any issue. As soon as I began to use map3, I got some dct slipping isues in pair gears. I sent all the logs to the Burger guys and at the end, the answer was to stay in map1. So, that tuner do some amazing things on the Sonata but the dct trans seem to be really close to is maximum torque capacity.

 

I have been running map2 since last year on 93 octane and have zero problems I love it.

 

I installed the JB4 on a costumer's 2022 sonata N line and took right after it to a Mustang Dyno, I tested it on map1 only, there was an exact gain of a 30hp, map1 is for 91 octane but the car is running 93, in the next coming days I will be testing a map2 (93) and map3 (E20) and report.

 

I'm interested lmk of any updates

 

At one point I drove a 2013 Genesis Coupe with the 3.8 v6. I was reading this post again and it made me think to go find the window sticker from the Genesis. And although not a big hp Difference the window sticker (attached) shows 344 hp running regular and 348 running premium so maybe we do get a few more hp from running higher octane? Thoughts?

 

Here is the problem with the stock 2.5T turbo to intercooler charge air pipe:

Note: The stock 40mm ID part of the pipe needs to be replaced with a pipe that is also 51mm ID just like the rest of the pipe. This 40mm ID section of the pipe reduces airflow between the turbo and the intercooler.

 

This photo shows the larger 51mm ID pipe that replaced the smaller 40mm ID stock pipe:

Now we have a full 51mm ID diameter piping going all the way from the turbo and into the intercooler.

 

This photo shows the larger 51mm ID pipe that replaced the smaller 40mm ID stock pipe:

Now we have a full 51mm ID diameter piping going all the way from the turbo and into the intercooler.

And you custom made this? What parts did you get?

 

60° Elbow, Silicone, 2.25” ID
$ 13.14
Amazon.com

Intercooler Pipe, T6061 Brushed Aluminum, 2.0” OD
$ 20.11
Amazon.com

T-Bolt Clamp, Stainless, 2.25” (2 Clamps Needed - for both ends of the 60 degree elbow)
$ 5.31
2.25" T-BOLT CLAMP STAINLESS STEEL HOSE TURBO INTAKE INTERCOOLER 63-70MM 2PCS | eBay

T-Bolt Clamp, Stainless, 2.00” (1 Clamp Needed - for the end of the pipe that attaches to the rubber hose leading into the intercooler)
$ 4.07
2" T-BOLT CLAMP 57-65MM SILICONE STAINLESS STEEL HOSE TURBO INTAKE INTERCOOLER | eBay

Total: $ 42.63
..........................................................

Note) The aluminum intercooler pipe will need to be shortened slightly to 10” in total length. The easiest way I found to shorten this pipe is using an electric ‘cut-off wheel’. Then smooth the cut edge with a rounded file. (See photo below)

Note) One problem that I encountered is that the inside diameter of the elbow is 2.25" and the outside diameter of the aluminum pipe is just slightly more than 2" .. so the fit is just too loose between the 2 parts.

The fix is to get a 1" wide piece of 1/16" thick rubber sheet and cut it in length so it fits perfectly around the end of the aluminum pipe. Once it is wrapped around the end of the pipe, wrap a long piece of masking tape tightly around the rubber strip to hold it together on to the pipe. Then when the pipe is inserted into the end of the silicone elbow, it won't be very loose at all. Then tighten the 2.25" T-bolt clamp good and tight

 

Is this a cold charge or hot pipe? I’m confused because the air intake runs through the back and below this pipe is the throttle body.

 

I guess you could call it the 'hot pipe' ... It's the pressurized air pipe that goes between the turbocharger compressor and into the top of the intercooler. (see the photo in post #29).

It has nothing to do with the turbocharger's compressor inlet pipe that routes air from the intake air filter into the comprssor of the turbocharger (that is non-pressurized air).