Cost of the warranty is $559, so don't feel bad, they probably wouldn't have said yes to $550 anyways.

 

Did you negotiate the sticker price? I bought my 6 cylinder Sonata for less than that of what you paid for your 4 cylinder Sonata.

 

Originally posted by LuckFromHeaven@Sep 7 2006, 04:01 PM
Did you negotiate the sticker price? I bought my 6 cylinder Sonata for less than that of what you paid for your 4 cylinder Sonata.

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Yes it seems there is a premium on the 4 Cyl model, although...

The current National Hyundai spots offer a V6 for $16,495 (or less)

And an extended warranty which I do believe in purchasing, is not really worth getting on a Hyundai with a 10 Year Warranty. One poster had mentioned that it included the ever important Rental Car insurance. While that is true, many Hyundai Dealers offer loaner cars. Another unbeatable value added service by Hyundai!

 

Originally posted by LuckFromHeaven@Sep 7 2006, 12:01 PM
Did you negotiate the sticker price? I bought my 6 cylinder Sonata for less than that of what you paid for your 4 cylinder Sonata.

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Hmmm.... Would you mind posting all the details of your transaction, similar to mine. (Including trim level with options.) It would be very interesting to see/learn from? (including if you had a trade-in)


I'm not saying you couldn't do what you said, but without seeing ALL the details, we are not making a real comparision. (For example, dealers can offer you a lower price, and then "steal" your trade-in.)

I almost went with the V6 and since it has an extra $1000 rebate it could have been a close call, but then I still would be buying things I didn't want (sunroof, etc, although the "solar glass" might have been a nice thing to have in retrospect.)

 

???

I bought my 4 CYl. GLS for $15,700 after 2 rebates....

This was late evening of January 31...

I got the extended warranty for $700.

The price you quoted here seems high to me. Sorry to give you bad news when it's too late.

 

Originally posted by mamamia@Sep 7 2006, 04:48 PM
???

I bought my 4 CYl. GLS for $15,700 after 2 rebates....

This was late evening of January 31...

I got the extended warranty for $700.

The price you quoted here seems high to me. Sorry to give you bad news when it's too late.

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Here are the current Rebate offers. Remember though, he got the "V" 4 :bwekk:

http://www.hyundaiusa.com/financing/specia...ial_offers.aspx

 

Well from what I remember, the sticker price was 22,895 (sun roof + shipping) and I negotiated it to 19,995. Then from there I got the 2,500 rebate which comes out to 17,495. And I didn't trade anything in.

 

Originally posted by mamamia@Sep 7 2006, 12:48 PM
???

I bought my 4 CYl. GLS for $15,700 after 2 rebates....

This was late evening of January 31...

I got the extended warranty for $700.

The price you quoted here seems high to me. Sorry to give you bad news when it's too late.

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Is the price you are staing before or after all taxes/fees/junk fees? (Are you in a no or low-tax state?)

Is the 15,700 including the 700 warranty? Is yours an automatic or manual?


Another way to look at my deal stating the way you do in your opening line, I bought mine for $15860 after two rebates, and I got the exended waaranty for $750.

 

You should of got a used one in my arrea a dealer was trying to sell me a used 06 sonata v6 fully loaded... soundystem/leather/ sunroof had only 4,000 miles for i think he said 16,800 out the door with taxes and title

 

Originally posted by dcbarry@Sep 7 2006, 03:42 PM
Hmmm.... Would you mind posting all the details of your transaction, similar to mine.

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I think that's where a lot of buyers go wrong. The dealers like to nickle and dime you to death. Don't play his little game. Talk OTD price and nothing else. Find the car you want, with the trim you want, and know what people are paying in advance. Decide in advance the most you will pay. I got my GLS V6 for 16,600 OTD. I was willing to pay $17K tops, which was based on deals people were reporting on the forums.

Your deal was certainly not the best, but the car is still well worth what you paid. Enjoy it!

 

Sticker... **** no. Man, you must really think I'm a rube! ;-)

First off, per Edmunds: 2006 Hyundai Sonata GL 2. Automatic ( add "otional" floormats):

you get

MSRP: 19480 (Which matches the sticker in my car)
Invoice: 18015



I gave my opening offfer as: 17,500 (price) / 17,130 (TOTAL cost w/ $2000 rebates applied ) which is 3% under invoice.

In the end I paid, 17,861 (price) / 17,600 (TOTAL COST out door w/ rebates applied.) This is still 1% under invoice. (Add the $750 EPP, and you get $18350).

(The dealer kept trying to get me to come up two grand, then 1 G, then about 500. All in all, I only raised myself $361, when I made the final 17600 OTD offer after I refused any more raising. )

(note: the Extended warranty was never part of the negotiations, see my orig post)

Under the rebates offered that day, and without hard proof of further incentives beyond the holdbacks, I sincerly doubt a much better deal have been struck. (Yes, beyond holdbacks, they are still making probabbly $800 to $1200 in hidden incentives, but even I know I'm not going to get the car w/o some profit to them. )

I probabbly coulda paid about $300 to $400 less if I was in true agrressive mode but I really needed to get the car that day. (Something I never clued them in to -- I walked out twice as if I could care less. I did have a list of the inventory of three other dealerships.)



Again, I could be wrong, and I don't intend this insultingly in any way, but at I say show me your sales contract and enumerate all your options if you really think I still massively overpaid so we can properly analyze it. A lot of people "remember" getting a lower price, cause they are rembering what they financed and forget the down payment, or forget the cost was after, not before rebates, or forget something. I'm pretty confident I did well (not great), until someone posts ALL the details of their sales contracts.

(Of course, as I famous car sales book I read once said quoting a sales manager.... A good deal exists only in the mind of the customer.)



d.

 

Is the price you are staing before or after all taxes/fees/junk fees? (Are you in a no or low-tax state?)

Is the 15,700 including the 700 warranty? Is yours an automatic or manual?


Another way to look at my deal stating the way you do in your opening line, I bought mine for $15860 after two rebates, and I got the exended waaranty for $750.

OK, going back to your original post (too long for us with ADD...) I am CORRECTING my assertions as to your deal... You did OK.

My $15,700 price was the car's price after the rebates. That's it. Taxes, fees, etc. were an ADD-ON, and so was the warranty, of course. And my car is an Automatic, of course (being a GLS).

But in general: I think when comparing prices, to compare apples to apples, we should post the car's price, and not include taxes, registration fees, title, dealer fees, doc fees, etc. etc etc.... Certainly not include trade ins...

"Talk OTD price" -- NO. The car's price minus the rebates, if any. That's it.

THAT'S THE ONLY WAY TO COMPARE BETWEEN CARS THAT WERE PURCHASED IN DIFFERENT STATES, WITH DIFFERENT FEES, TAXES, LAWS AND REGULATIONS.

 

no offence, but i dont see how you guys figure you can compare deals in a country as large as america??

seriously, your population is what, 160million, and by land mass your the 4th largest country or something... you guys cant seriously believe that you can buy the exact same car for the exact same price in wildly differing markets.

dcbarry, it sounds like you got a good deal for the area from what ive been reading, and it sounds like you are pretty happy with it, so IMO you can pretty much ignore all the guys saying "i got mine for less" unless they bought theirs from the same local area.

 

Originally posted by bobad@Sep 7 2006, 02:49 PM
I think that's where a lot of buyers go wrong. The dealers like to nickle and dime you to death. Don't play his little game. Talk OTD price and nothing else.  Find the car you want, with the trim you want, and know what people are paying in advance.

I agree in part. As someone who only will negotiate from the belowthe invoice, you can talk OTD price only if you know in advance (at least a good estimate) of what the true tax and lisc cost is going to be.


I only negotiated my sales price (and told them what that meant my OTD price should be no greater than). When you compare what "other people paid" though, you can't trust it often -- some states have no sales taxes and no VLF. That could easly be $1500 you are giving a dealer you shouldn't right there. And again, people's version of the maning OTD wildly varies.

Originally posted by bobad@Sep 7 2006, 02:49 PM
that'sDecide in advance the most you will pay. I got my GLS V6 for 16,600 OTD. I was willing to pay $17K tops, which was based on deals people were reporting on the forums.

Your deal was certainly not the best, but the car is still well worth what you paid. Enjoy it!

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Not to persist, but I really am dying to know what the "sales price" and rebates on your car were. If you put no cash down, and lived here in California....... Then I should be ashamed cause then I did get smoked. Can I convince you to look it up (maybe PM it to me? ;-) (I'm a masochist! or is it a sadist? ;-) )

Cheers,


d.

 

Originally posted by dogstar@Sep 7 2006, 07:30 PM
no offence, but i dont see how you guys figure you can compare deals in a country as large as america??

seriously, your population is what, 160million, and by land mass your the 4th largest country or something... you guys cant seriously believe that you can buy the exact same car for the exact same price in wildly differing markets.

dcbarry, it sounds like you got a good deal for the area from what ive been reading, and it sounds like you are pretty happy with it, so IMO you can pretty much ignore all the guys saying "i got mine for less" unless they bought theirs from the same local area.

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Close, 299 Million, and that's just in the United States :thumbsup: .
http://www.census.gov/

Here's a great article about true Out the Door pricing!

http://www.edmunds.com/advice/strategies/a...25/article.html

 

Originally posted by dogstar+Sep 7 2006, 03:30 PM-->

no offence, but i dont see how you guys figure you can compare deals in a country as large as america??

None taken .. this is all in fun.


<!--QuoteBegin-dogstar@Sep 7 2006, 03:30 PM
seriously, your population is what, 160million, and by land mass your the 4th largest country or something... you guys cant seriously believe that you can buy the exact same car for the exact same price in wildly differing markets.

dcbarry, it sounds like you got a good deal for the area from what ive been reading, and it sounds like you are pretty happy with it, so IMO you can pretty much ignore all the guys saying "i got mine for less" unless they bought theirs from the same local area.

[snapback]54829[/snapback]​

Well, you can compare as mamamia posted by simply comparing your cost of the car before anything else. Take out all the jursdictional stuff, and just go to the cost beofre everything else is factored in. (If a trade in is involved, forget it --- cause then you can screw with the cost and make it up by "stealing the trade-in", or vice-versa, inflate a trade-in price and also inflate the sales price.)

;-)

 

mmm hmm... but differing dealers will gouge their customers more or less, depending on the market.

for example, in an area that only has a couple dealers, but a large number of hyundai customers, you can be fairly sure that prices will be higher than a locale with a large number of dealers and fewer potential sales.

 

DC, personally I don't think you are in a position to be giving advice on how to get the best possible price?. You paid what I paid, and I have a model that had a MSRP of $25,000.

Scott

 

Approaching a dealer with an OTD price -- may be a good idea, of course, as long as this OTD number is low enough.

But when you want to compare my GLS, purchased in Illinois, to your GLS, with the same equipment, purchased in Arizona (or Oregon, or Florida, or anywhere else in the USA) --- the ONLY FAIR comparison is the car's PRICE, before and/or after rebates.

All the rest of those numbers -- taxes and fees -- are not to be thrown into the equation.

After all, for example, we here in IL pay a REGULATED Doc Fee of about $58, while dealers in Florida (and some other Southern states) can, and do charge $400-$500 for Doc Fee...

 

I have a 2006 silver GLS 4cyl I paid $15,700 OUT THE DOOR! Thats with everything including a 5yr plate (in Delaware you can get registered for 5yrs on a new car. I will not have to have it inspected or pay a reg. in 5yrs.) I got the $2500 rebate. I payed cash for my car with no trade in or financing. Another dealer in Dowingtown Pa. offered me a 2007 4cyl. in silver for $17,200 out the door. I went with the 2006

 

what on earth is a tire fee?

 

Originally posted by MikeNH@Sep 7 2006, 07:53 PM
what on earth is a tire fee?

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A dumb State of California mandated recycling fee. I don't know the details, but think of it like a bottle "recycling fee", except you dont get it back when you switch tires.

d.

 

we don't even have the bottle thing here in NH, but that tire surcharge is stupid. Leave it to California I guess...

 

My Sonata had a Pre Printed Doc Fee of $99, along with a Pre Printed Dealer Fee of $599.50, plus a Pre Printed Florida Lead-Acid Battery Fee & Waste Fee of $6.50. And a $2.00 Motor Vehicle Warranty Enforcement Fee too!

But please ask me if I really paid any of these Fees? :innocent: :liebe011:

 

****, looks like the sunshine of CA and FL isn't really worth it haha.... I'll keep my blizzards if it means I don't have to pay silly fees like that