I'm really amazed by the brakes on this car. The pedal is firm with short travel and you just need light pressure to quickly stop. I'm used to my Hondas' mushy pedal feel (been that way since new). They stop fine but don't have the positive feel of the Elantra's brakes. Hopefully it isn't just a new car thing which goes away in a few thousand miles haha
mclasser
Love the brakes on this car
They will if you keep them clean and well lubricated, only way I know how to do this correctly is to do it myself.
Can you believe I went to three different Chevy dealers and none of them knew you have to work the parking brake to adjust rear disc, vehicle stop, engine off, not even in the owners manual.
If the car sits for even 24 hours, engine off, should be able to step on your brake pedal three times and get a soft pedal, tells you the system is good with no leaks. About the 4th time, pedal should only go down not more than a half and inch and will be firm, any further, need adjustment.
Drum brakes are adjusted by backing up and tapping on the brake pedal. With ABS, have to flush out the fluid, maximum, three years or will get gum buildup. Use vacuum bleeding for this, but have to keep that reservoir full, if it gets low, will get air in the system, only way to get rid of this is to operate the ABS pump. Practically all new vehicles need a special scanner for this.
Been awhile since I had a Honda, can only use Honda brake, power steering, and AT fluid, anything else you would get seal leaks. Not sure if this is true today.
Ha, when I first brought my Limited home, had to install what I call stone shields, or mud flaps, if you don't do this will get stone chips on your doors and rear bumper. Required to remove the wheels first, paid to get this done once at a dealer, can't even install them on straight. Only one out of eight caliper guide pins was even close to being properly lubricated, stuff those boots full of silicone to keep salt water out. Anti-seize under those pad clips, trap road salt, expand and lock the pads, brake drag. If you don't anti-seize that flat head screw holding the rotors on, will never get it off.
Silicone went on all of those rubber gaskets for every bulb, if not, that rubber will bake on, same with the spark plug boots, gaps on the plugs were all over the place, spent a whole day doing this and really fun on a brand new vehicle, call this post production work.
Have to draw the line someplace, anti-seizing the hub bearings is a bit too much. But those rotors sure got anti-seize, if you don't, won't ever get them off. When further with my 88 Supra, first car with an engine undercover., replaced all those screws holding it up with stainless.
Can you believe I went to three different Chevy dealers and none of them knew you have to work the parking brake to adjust rear disc, vehicle stop, engine off, not even in the owners manual.
If the car sits for even 24 hours, engine off, should be able to step on your brake pedal three times and get a soft pedal, tells you the system is good with no leaks. About the 4th time, pedal should only go down not more than a half and inch and will be firm, any further, need adjustment.
Drum brakes are adjusted by backing up and tapping on the brake pedal. With ABS, have to flush out the fluid, maximum, three years or will get gum buildup. Use vacuum bleeding for this, but have to keep that reservoir full, if it gets low, will get air in the system, only way to get rid of this is to operate the ABS pump. Practically all new vehicles need a special scanner for this.
Been awhile since I had a Honda, can only use Honda brake, power steering, and AT fluid, anything else you would get seal leaks. Not sure if this is true today.
Ha, when I first brought my Limited home, had to install what I call stone shields, or mud flaps, if you don't do this will get stone chips on your doors and rear bumper. Required to remove the wheels first, paid to get this done once at a dealer, can't even install them on straight. Only one out of eight caliper guide pins was even close to being properly lubricated, stuff those boots full of silicone to keep salt water out. Anti-seize under those pad clips, trap road salt, expand and lock the pads, brake drag. If you don't anti-seize that flat head screw holding the rotors on, will never get it off.
Silicone went on all of those rubber gaskets for every bulb, if not, that rubber will bake on, same with the spark plug boots, gaps on the plugs were all over the place, spent a whole day doing this and really fun on a brand new vehicle, call this post production work.
Have to draw the line someplace, anti-seizing the hub bearings is a bit too much. But those rotors sure got anti-seize, if you don't, won't ever get them off. When further with my 88 Supra, first car with an engine undercover., replaced all those screws holding it up with stainless.
Since we're talking brakes, I need advice from the Forums. Took the Elantra in for an oil change and decided I'd better do my first brake service in December 2017. Owned the car since May 2016 - only 10,000 km on it.
They call me to tell me the 4 rotors need resurfacing for an extra $180 (Cdn). If I don't then the brakes will be down to about 20% in several months. I'm kind of a skeptical guy by nature, so I said don't resurface and I'll consider it at a later date. I need a second opinion, so I hope these pictures can help with that. Do they look like they need resurfacing?
They call me to tell me the 4 rotors need resurfacing for an extra $180 (Cdn). If I don't then the brakes will be down to about 20% in several months. I'm kind of a skeptical guy by nature, so I said don't resurface and I'll consider it at a later date. I need a second opinion, so I hope these pictures can help with that. Do they look like they need resurfacing?
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See all the signs of brake drag, pads are not returning to the home position. Also affecting your fuel economy and performance, your rotors are running red hot..
Also have a lot of rust buildup in the vents, having rotors resurfaced use to cost about two bucks, most shops around here are charging over 20 bucks, and they don't clean the rotors either, many are sloppy, rotors have a minimum thickness, they go beyond this, not safe at all.
Cheaper and safer to replace them with new, these are less than 25 bucks at rockauto.com, most local auto supply stores equal or beat this price if you asked them to. to save on shipping.
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Another thing I use to do was to electroplate my brake parts, could do this in my own plant, can't do this anymore since the EPA banned electroplating in this country.
Also have a lot of rust buildup in the vents, having rotors resurfaced use to cost about two bucks, most shops around here are charging over 20 bucks, and they don't clean the rotors either, many are sloppy, rotors have a minimum thickness, they go beyond this, not safe at all.
Cheaper and safer to replace them with new, these are less than 25 bucks at rockauto.com, most local auto supply stores equal or beat this price if you asked them to. to save on shipping.
Another thing I use to do was to electroplate my brake parts, could do this in my own plant, can't do this anymore since the EPA banned electroplating in this country.
I'd go back there and ask them to further examine your breaking system for possible seized pads. So to further clarify, you only have 10k Km TOTAL on your car and they're saying your pads are wearing out already? All four pads or just front/rear? And what is the purpose of resurfacing; those rotors look really good. There is no point in resurfacing rotors unless you're replacing just the pads and we're full circle as to why they're even suggesting it if they examined the pads for unusual wear and they're fine (or did they/are the pads OK).
Just for reference, here are 2013 Sonata front pads after 90k km. Both pads are worn evenly, no ashing and down to around 2mm.
Just for reference, here are 2013 Sonata front pads after 90k km. Both pads are worn evenly, no ashing and down to around 2mm.
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Unusual to find all four wheels with brake drag, how are your other three? But that how my daughter's 2015 base Soul was after one season of use, all four, but not serious enough to overheat the rotors.
Caliper guide pins were frozen, where's the silicone, even needed a puller to get them out, but cleaned an lubricated them, rust buildup on those pad clips where they snap over the torque plates, pad backing plate were painted, that wore off tips were rusty, parking brake cable was adjusted to tight, parking brake was already half on.
Good cleaning, silicone and anti-seize and properly adjusting the parking brake cable solved all these problems, rear disc caliper brake levers were not returning to the home position.
Normally don't look at brakes on a brand new car, but with her history was on day one with my Limited. Can only say one out of eight caliper pins was even close to being coated with silicone, somebody in production is really screwing up, other seven were close to being bone dry.
Not to pleased with painted pad backing plates, that paint chips off, just cleaned the tips of mine off with a thick coat of anti-seize. That paint quickly wears off and the tips are loaded with binding rust. Also under those pad clips, traps road salt. Popped of the boots on the caliper pistons with a bead of silicone around the piston, also helps to keep road salt out. Easy on a brand new vehicle, everything was clean. Question is to keep them this way.
Do not feel a new owner should have to go through all this, and not your fault, feel Hyundai should repair yours under warranty. And should be electroplating the pad backing plates instead of painting them.
Caliper guide pins were frozen, where's the silicone, even needed a puller to get them out, but cleaned an lubricated them, rust buildup on those pad clips where they snap over the torque plates, pad backing plate were painted, that wore off tips were rusty, parking brake cable was adjusted to tight, parking brake was already half on.
Good cleaning, silicone and anti-seize and properly adjusting the parking brake cable solved all these problems, rear disc caliper brake levers were not returning to the home position.
Normally don't look at brakes on a brand new car, but with her history was on day one with my Limited. Can only say one out of eight caliper pins was even close to being coated with silicone, somebody in production is really screwing up, other seven were close to being bone dry.
Not to pleased with painted pad backing plates, that paint chips off, just cleaned the tips of mine off with a thick coat of anti-seize. That paint quickly wears off and the tips are loaded with binding rust. Also under those pad clips, traps road salt. Popped of the boots on the caliper pistons with a bead of silicone around the piston, also helps to keep road salt out. Easy on a brand new vehicle, everything was clean. Question is to keep them this way.
Do not feel a new owner should have to go through all this, and not your fault, feel Hyundai should repair yours under warranty. And should be electroplating the pad backing plates instead of painting them.
If the rotors are warped and vibrate only at the time of applying breaking and having them heat up, no amount of resurfacing will help. Had this happen on another car. They're cheap enough these days to just replace at the time pads are done especially due to the above issue and not many shops doing that anymore.
Again, if they had a compelling and valid reason to do this, that's fine. But if your pads are wearing evenly, within spec and nothing is vibrating, it makes no sense.
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Again, if they had a compelling and valid reason to do this, that's fine. But if your pads are wearing evenly, within spec and nothing is vibrating, it makes no sense.
Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
What do the back sides of the rotors look like? These 2 pictures are only giving us a fraction of the information.
If you have warping, then it would have to be very minimal to be able to resurface the rotor to the point of getting rid of it before you remove too much to put it under spec. If you have heat spots, you can cut away all you want and won't remove it. It seems quick to need it, but I wouldn't say you don't specifically from those two pictures.
If you have warping, then it would have to be very minimal to be able to resurface the rotor to the point of getting rid of it before you remove too much to put it under spec. If you have heat spots, you can cut away all you want and won't remove it. It seems quick to need it, but I wouldn't say you don't specifically from those two pictures.
With drum brakes, could be cleaned up by resurfacing, but also had a tool to arch the shoes, only the very center of the shoes would make contact. This was outlawed in the early 70's so have to live with poor brakes until the centers wore off.
Was also able to drive in this country for 20 years with studded snow tires, still have to drive slow, but got there. The ended in 1975, this is when brakes really became a problem. After some odd 48 years of using salt mines are getting empty, understand the price per ton now is over 120 bucks.
City sprinkled just a little on our street, but not enough to do anything. Last Friday, hit 45*F, that melted off all the snow, but the parts with salt on it, the melting is much lower, so that left patches of glare ice on the road. No use in talking to them.
Ever since they started using salt, key reason for getting rid of a vehicle, frames could survive, unibody cars cannot, rocker panels are the first to go, and yes, brakes are a constant problem.
And if you want get it done right, have to do it yourself. Two of my daughters paid 99 bucks for new front pads, both were installed with sledge hammers, both had very short rotor life and plenty of brake drag.
Both propulsion and stopping depends upon traction between a rubber tire and ice, in 1899, a monorail was considered, but the technology just wasn't there, a shroud above the rail could keep them dry and ice free. So we had to put up what they did for 119 years now. Is there a better way?
A lot was done at that turn of that century, thousands of miles of highways and railroads were built and the entire country was electrified, aviation wasn't even heard of. And most of this work was done by hand. Today, seems like we can't even maintain what we already built. With Ike, thousand of miles of interstates were built, increasing the gas tax 3 cents a gallon. Today at 55 cents, can't even repair potholes.
Something is wrong, when I hear certain people say we should move forward, backwards would be far superior. For me, owning and flying a plane wasn't more expensive than purchasing another vehicle, that sure changed. Became a sue happy society.
Greatest pleasure was dropping in a large V-8 in a 40's coupe, perfectly legal, today can get into deep trouble by replacing a light bulb with a different type. So much for the land of the free.
Was also able to drive in this country for 20 years with studded snow tires, still have to drive slow, but got there. The ended in 1975, this is when brakes really became a problem. After some odd 48 years of using salt mines are getting empty, understand the price per ton now is over 120 bucks.
City sprinkled just a little on our street, but not enough to do anything. Last Friday, hit 45*F, that melted off all the snow, but the parts with salt on it, the melting is much lower, so that left patches of glare ice on the road. No use in talking to them.
Ever since they started using salt, key reason for getting rid of a vehicle, frames could survive, unibody cars cannot, rocker panels are the first to go, and yes, brakes are a constant problem.
And if you want get it done right, have to do it yourself. Two of my daughters paid 99 bucks for new front pads, both were installed with sledge hammers, both had very short rotor life and plenty of brake drag.
Both propulsion and stopping depends upon traction between a rubber tire and ice, in 1899, a monorail was considered, but the technology just wasn't there, a shroud above the rail could keep them dry and ice free. So we had to put up what they did for 119 years now. Is there a better way?
A lot was done at that turn of that century, thousands of miles of highways and railroads were built and the entire country was electrified, aviation wasn't even heard of. And most of this work was done by hand. Today, seems like we can't even maintain what we already built. With Ike, thousand of miles of interstates were built, increasing the gas tax 3 cents a gallon. Today at 55 cents, can't even repair potholes.
Something is wrong, when I hear certain people say we should move forward, backwards would be far superior. For me, owning and flying a plane wasn't more expensive than purchasing another vehicle, that sure changed. Became a sue happy society.
Greatest pleasure was dropping in a large V-8 in a 40's coupe, perfectly legal, today can get into deep trouble by replacing a light bulb with a different type. So much for the land of the free.
I really like the brakes on my '18 VE. I had a '12 Ram that had good brakes. Family and I went to Key West for my brothers birthday. Decided to make the drive from Pittsburgh so I could stop in Tampa at my brothers place and cart his canoes down for him (hey, it was his wedding and he wanted them). I then followed him and his wife in their '13 Elantra 2 door. I averaged 17mph, they averaged 37mpg. Jags. Anyway, the one morning his car was parked in front of my truck so I took it to the store. I nearly put my head through the windshield with how touchy those brakes were. And I see that on a lot of hyundai's a few years old when pulling them out of the garage at work. I'm suuuuure glad they got the feel of that brake pedal fixed!
The Brembo brakes on my Gen Coupe is why I bought the car. 88k miles and still on OE rotors. I have never in my life had rotors resurfaced, just replaced. And the only rotors I have ever gotten less that 100k miles out of were some Raybestos rotors that developed radial cracks after a year.
The brakes are great on this car. Mine seem to squeak occasionally, but no vibration/shaking/anything else.
Simple tests, after driving for a bit use engine braking mostly to come to a stop, do a walk around holding the back of your hand near each rotor.
If you have brake drag, will feel excessive heat. Really don't feel you want to touch a rotor with your finger, may say ouch. Did that on my motorhome after doing the brakes, right front was sure hot, brake line hose was acting like a check valve preventing the fluid from returning keeping the caliper engaged, new Gates hose fix that. More made in China crap, many layers not properly vulcanized together.
Tempered to take my rear disc calipers apart just to learn if that screw has any lube on it, is a seal on that shaft for the lever where road salt can leak in. In replacing bad rear disc calipers, could not even screw in the piston, was rusted locked. Caliper guide pins on my brand new Limited sure were not lubricated.
To remove a caliper, first step is to put a 2 by 6 board in front of the drivers seat with a 2 by 2 from that board to the brake pedal. By moving the seat forward, pushes on the brake pedal so its pistons block the fluid flow to the brakes. If you don't do this, all of your fluid will leak out of the reservoir, and will get air locks in your ABS, need a scanner to operate the ABS pump to get rid of it.
Did take apart the rear calipers on my 78 Fleetwood. That lever would rotate a spring wheel with teeth on it, teeth would did into the piston to rotate it when the lever was moving forward, should slide back with because the teeth on it was like on a saw.
Problem with it, those teeth wore a groove in the piston, so moving the lever back and forth would just rotate the piston back and forth, would not ratchet. Really an incredible stupid design, and couldn't even buy a new piston for it, 300 bucks for a whole new caliper.
Have no idea how the ratcheting works on these newer ones, only one way to find out. If made like a ratchet wrench, would be fine, and if I could load that screw with silicone like I did on my guide pins, that would keep road salt from leaking in. But don't know until I look.
If you have brake drag, will feel excessive heat. Really don't feel you want to touch a rotor with your finger, may say ouch. Did that on my motorhome after doing the brakes, right front was sure hot, brake line hose was acting like a check valve preventing the fluid from returning keeping the caliper engaged, new Gates hose fix that. More made in China crap, many layers not properly vulcanized together.
Tempered to take my rear disc calipers apart just to learn if that screw has any lube on it, is a seal on that shaft for the lever where road salt can leak in. In replacing bad rear disc calipers, could not even screw in the piston, was rusted locked. Caliper guide pins on my brand new Limited sure were not lubricated.
To remove a caliper, first step is to put a 2 by 6 board in front of the drivers seat with a 2 by 2 from that board to the brake pedal. By moving the seat forward, pushes on the brake pedal so its pistons block the fluid flow to the brakes. If you don't do this, all of your fluid will leak out of the reservoir, and will get air locks in your ABS, need a scanner to operate the ABS pump to get rid of it.
Did take apart the rear calipers on my 78 Fleetwood. That lever would rotate a spring wheel with teeth on it, teeth would did into the piston to rotate it when the lever was moving forward, should slide back with because the teeth on it was like on a saw.
Problem with it, those teeth wore a groove in the piston, so moving the lever back and forth would just rotate the piston back and forth, would not ratchet. Really an incredible stupid design, and couldn't even buy a new piston for it, 300 bucks for a whole new caliper.
Have no idea how the ratcheting works on these newer ones, only one way to find out. If made like a ratchet wrench, would be fine, and if I could load that screw with silicone like I did on my guide pins, that would keep road salt from leaking in. But don't know until I look.
While I haven't tried this, Car and Driver says the stopping distance on the 2017 Elantra is 166 feet at 60 mph. Would you call this good?
88 Supra is roughly half this, 90 feet at 60 mph, would call this a tad better.
Motorhome is in the neighborhood of 350 feet, most semi's with a full load is over 500 feet, a train is well over a mile.
Also varies huge on the type of road you are on.
88 Supra is roughly half this, 90 feet at 60 mph, would call this a tad better.
Motorhome is in the neighborhood of 350 feet, most semi's with a full load is over 500 feet, a train is well over a mile.
Also varies huge on the type of road you are on.
Who drives a Supra 60 mph? :wink:
Stopping distance does not matter as much as common sense. I keep a 3 seconds distance between my car and the one in front of me per training at work. Apparently most drivers did not attend that training. :surprise:
Stopping distance does not matter as much as common sense. I keep a 3 seconds distance between my car and the one in front of me per training at work. Apparently most drivers did not attend that training. :surprise:
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