Has anyone experienced loss of power during acceleration with the 2021 Sante Fe? I ran into a pretty scary situation this afternoon while on the highway. I was driving at about 85mph on the leftmost/fast lane when I suddenly noticed a loss in power (no warning, nothing!). I could just hear the engine rev when stepping on the gas but the speed never picked up. I managed to stop on the far left shoulder next to the jersey barrier. It was pretty scary with cars zipping by close to 100mph. Restarting the car multiple times didn't fix the issue but the engine light came on at this point. I had to get the car towed to the nearest dealer after seeking help from the highway patrol and roadside assistance.
Rockets337
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Darn, brother. Sorry to hear that. And also sorry for predicting that the 3rd time would be 'fatal' for sure... but at least you got 3. With some other owners, it crapped out the first time. Hey, is your SF AWD or FWD? Just curious. I think it's AWD due to a flat badge I see to the left of the '2.5T', but just to make sure. All of the failures I've seen where folks state what it is, have been AWD, so I'm hopeful my FWD will be spared. Ha ha. I'd like to know what's different about the AWD vs FWD transmission, but I found no info. My guess is the housing has to be different, since there's no space to just add the transfer case to the transmission, being transversely mounted. And that might have changed the location of the oil pumps on the tranny. If anybody finds anything, please post it. But so far Hyundai apparently hasn't said it's just AWDs, at least not yet. Please keep us posted, and best of luck.
Thanks! It is an AWD, or at least it was. Now it's NWD...lol! I am also not aware of what differences there may be with the AWD vs FWD transmissions, if any. The more I think about it, there were other possible signs of problems in the past, so this may not have been the third time, but it was the third of the more significant issues. Or maybe the other odd things were not related. Whatever the case, I just have to say again that I am glad I was aware of the potential for problem and knew what to do. I bet the majority of owners out there probably don't even know about the recall and will just freak out when this happens, potentially leaving them stopped in the middle of a highway travel lane or something. Right now, I see no indication in my Bluelink app of anyone touching the car, but I'm going to call the service department here in a bit anyway and also cancel my appointment with the other dealer that I won't need now.
BTW, my recall notice is in today's mail!
Hey, could you please elaborate on that? I'm very interested. It's very important to me (and probably many others) to know early on if my SF is affected, since it's my exclusive travel vehicle (only use it for trips), and each trip is over 1K miles. So if a loss of power happens even for the first time while on a trip, I probably wouldn't make it back before the 3rd and fatal occurrence. My next trip (1,300 miles total) is Dec 22. Thank you. Oh, and lol on the NWD
.Over the past few months I had noticed a couple unusually hard downshifts plus more and more frequent lurching when shifting down into 1st and coming to a stop. In addition, when parallel parking or such it would kind of lurch when engaging reverse gear, which is a bit nerve wracking if you're already close to the car behind you. I also had an occurrence at a friend's house where I had a hard time backing up his driveway. It was as if there was a curb or something I was trying to drive over and I had to give it quite a lot more throttle than normal to get movement. Enough such that I was afraid it would suddenly take off and launch me into their car already parked there. Just little things like that.Hey, could you please elaborate on that? I'm very interested. It's very important to me (and probably many others) to know early on if my SF is affected, since it's my exclusive travel vehicle (only use it for trips), and each trip is over 1K miles. So if a loss of power happens even for the first time while on a trip, I probably wouldn't make it back before the 3rd and fatal occurrence. My next trip (1,300 miles total) is Dec 22. Thank you. Oh, and lol on the NWD
Oh, within the past couple weeks I had noticed an odor sometimes when I'd get home. I thought it was maybe coolant, but couldn't find any evidence of coolant leaking and getting hot. Thinking about it now, I am wondering if it was the clutches getting a bit too hot.
What I noticed on mine when having to engine brake a lot, like when I was in Seattle, and that awful off-road trail I had to drive for miles, is the cooling fan took a long time to turn off after shutting the engine off. That never happened before, especially when in the 80s, not 100s, and not dogging the vehicle, but just engine-braking. Guess the tranny doesn't like that, because the engine itself doesn't even fire, and should cool down. The lurching is a little annoying, but I don't even think the TSB fixes that. The ECU applies rpm when you're almost stopped and in gear, be R or D. It's not that bad on my SF, but get used to how you need to brake to be smooth. And taking off is not a problem, but it's smoother when 'auto hold' is engaged, so I use it often. But if it was getting worse over time, then it wasn't normal for sure. The question is if the TSB would have fixed that or not. Maybe that's why they force dealers to do it? But doesn't sound related to the pump issue to me; it's more like a programming thing only. Hopefully we can get more answers as other owners get affected. Oh, and maybe AWD trannies behave a little different; mine is FWD. Thank you for posting your experience.
Wow that is unfortunate, sorry to read.
Unacceptable. Curious to see how Hyundai handles this issue. Have they acknowledged it?
In your previous video going up the hill it sounds like the engine was loaded and struggling to pull the car. What was it doing when you were on the shoulder on the highway? What was the rpm?
I got a call today and my SF is now officially awaiting a new transmission. From the sounds of it, the car would drive after they cleared the codes, but they don't want to release the car to me to drive and just have it crap out again. I should hear later today what the ETA is, but the transmissions are currently on backorder, so I assume it will be awhile. They are supposed to also get back to me about possibly getting me a loaner car or something.
What seems to happen is the car goes into a limp mode and the engine can't rev past a certain point, probably to protect from over rev when the clutches disengage? In my video the clutches hadn't totally disengaged, but if you listen carefully you can hear the engine revving a bit and can tell that the clutches are slipping. When we had the incident on the highway it was much the same at first. The engine speed would not increase past a certain limit, but there was drive connection just barely long enough to move over and get to the shoulder. This time the clutches fully disengaged at that point, so when we were on the shoulder the only direction we could move was backwards, and only because it was downhill. I don't think the warning message popped up until we were stopped, though we did have the series of three warning dings right before losing power. I hope that the video is still stored on the dashcam by the time I get the car back. Unless they test drive it a lot, it should be. But it may be awhile before I get it back. I thought about pulling the memory card when we left it, but decided to leave it in for during the servicing. I just know I was very calm since I was expecting it. I think the three dings happened and I said "uh oh" and just immediately started moving over across the lanes as the car began to slow down.
Strangely, I have only noticed my electric cooling fan on a few times, even when in high temps. Even when we drove out to South Dakota last July and left the car idling with the A/C on in the national park parking lots (we had the dogs with us so one of us would stay in the car waiting while the other wandered off to see things), it barely ever ran. Here in Seattle I think I have only heard it once or twice. Yeah, I don't know if the lurching is related or not, but it did seem like it had gotten more agressive and frequent recently, so while I can't confirm it is related, I do wonder. I can see how if the pump were to have erratic behavior at all it might cause the clutches to also be a bit weird. I don't know...lol! Transmissions are on backorder, but I have been approved for one and will hopefully hear soon how long the wait will be. I don't expect it to be as smooth as a torque converter auto after replacement, but it will be interesting to see if there are differences from the old one.
That's much better news that many folks who had to wait weeks and even months to hear that. Glad to hear Hyundai is starting to move quicker on this unfortunate issue. And also thank you for posting the info about clearing the codes. I just bought a iCarsoft CR PRO scanner to register a new battery, and reset the oil change maintenance warning on a Porsche (done successfully), and it's also for Hyundais and many other brands, so just put it on the SF. I don't think being that new I can use the many service functions it has, but if the code(s) is/are 'P' code(s), I should be able to clear them, and maybe continue driving. Do you know which codes your SF threw? It'd be helpful to know. The recall lists many, but I doubt each SF throws them all, but let's see what you tell us
. You should be able to see them via BlueLink. Thank you. Hopefully Hyundai gives priority to affected cars rather than new ones, to minimize the time without your SF. Best of luck.And yes, if you don't have full hydraulic pressure, the clutches cannot clamp hard enough to avoid slip. If the engine kept running normally, we could fry the clutches if they still have some pressure, and the SF wouldn't move anyway, so it's best to cut engine power IMO. Anyway, I think the number of affected SFs compared to produced ones are probably even less than 1%, but for those affected, it obviously sucks. For what I've read, if we can clear 10K miles, we might be in the clear. I'm at 6,800 right now, and will have 8K when I come back in late Dec.
You know, I'm almost sure Hyundai will give you a refurbished one. Read they're just replacing the bad pumps (which are external), and reinstalling them on vehicles that crap out, so they're recycling them, since most have less than 10K miles on them. And kind of makes sense. However, I'd ask if it's new or refurbished, and if the latter (like I'd expect), try to get a lifetime warranty for the tranny
. I'd demand to see the transmission when it gets there, especially if they tell you it'll be new, and you'd know right away by the box/crate if it's new or refurbished. And it should work just like a new one, but probably smoother if your SF is a 2021 or early 22, since they were jerkier than mine, for example. But even my late '22 doesn't have the latest software (probably just one revision behind), but I like how it shifts. Keep us posted on your saga. And push them to give you a loaner/rental asap.I don't know. I have a scanner, but I was never able to plug it in after actually getting a code to see if it would read them for the transmission. Maybe had I been smart I would have had it with me and done that while waiting the 3.5 hours for the tow truck! It's not the same one you have anyway. All that I have is what shows up in my Bluelink app, which is P1C2D03, but when the service advisor called me earlier I think he read off two codes that they pulled.
Very true about frying the clutches, though I don't know how much that matters if they are replacing the transmissions anyway. Assuming that's what they are really doing. My comment in the other thread about the failure rate being higher than hitting something in the road was not meant to be taken too seriously, BTW, but I do wonder what the rate actually is and whether or not it will grow. I'd also like to know how it compares to Theta II failures, especially when they were at the one or two year mark.
It is very possible that they are refurbishing the transmissions, but I do wonder if failure of the pump causes any other damage. Otherwise, why wouldn't they just send out new pumps to be installed in the car? From what I have seen, the pump is right on the side of the transmission and it appears it could be replaced with the transmission in the car. If a rebuild were as simple as just replacing the pump, it doesn't seem like it would make economic sense to pull the transmissions, send them for "rebuild," and then send them back to dealers if they could just replace the pumps at the dealers without removing the transmission. I don't really care whether or not it is refurbished as long as it is done right and doesn't fail again in 9,000 miles. I'll see what I can find out later from them. Since I only put about 5K on the car every year I'll probably never pass the 100K warranty anyway, so as long as it's covered until then, I'm good.
BTW, I forgot to mention before that you made a comment about maybe being one pothole away from failure. My brother lives down a dirt road, so you may have been onto something there and maybe that's what finished mine off.
Very true about frying the clutches, though I don't know how much that matters if they are replacing the transmissions anyway. Assuming that's what they are really doing. My comment in the other thread about the failure rate being higher than hitting something in the road was not meant to be taken too seriously, BTW, but I do wonder what the rate actually is and whether or not it will grow. I'd also like to know how it compares to Theta II failures, especially when they were at the one or two year mark.
It is very possible that they are refurbishing the transmissions, but I do wonder if failure of the pump causes any other damage. Otherwise, why wouldn't they just send out new pumps to be installed in the car? From what I have seen, the pump is right on the side of the transmission and it appears it could be replaced with the transmission in the car. If a rebuild were as simple as just replacing the pump, it doesn't seem like it would make economic sense to pull the transmissions, send them for "rebuild," and then send them back to dealers if they could just replace the pumps at the dealers without removing the transmission. I don't really care whether or not it is refurbished as long as it is done right and doesn't fail again in 9,000 miles. I'll see what I can find out later from them. Since I only put about 5K on the car every year I'll probably never pass the 100K warranty anyway, so as long as it's covered until then, I'm good.
BTW, I forgot to mention before that you made a comment about maybe being one pothole away from failure. My brother lives down a dirt road, so you may have been onto something there and maybe that's what finished mine off.
Another thing I wonder is about the recall solution. It seems they have not finalized anything, but everything seems to point to an inspection and then replacement of the transmission if necessary. I have been trying to figure out what the heck that would mean. The only thing to inspect, that I can think of, would be to pull the pump and look at the circuit board. Otherwise, there really isn't anything to learn unless there has already been a failure, and at that point, it comes back again to "why not just replace the pump?" Or maybe they look for a serial number on the pump to fall within a certain range?
Inspection would only mean checking codes. There's nothing else to check. The problem with the high-pressure pump is specialized equipment is required to calibrate the new pump, and THAT is the issue. And no damage at all when the pump fails; the transmission simply ceases to operate, as there's no hydraulic pressure, so nothing happens to it. It's like having air tools but no air pressure . By the way, the high flow pump doesn't require special calibration, so that one could be replaced by dealers, but the one that is failing (unfortunately) is the other one. Having said that, I don't know which is the pump that is visible (in front of the transmission/engine). The other must be at the rear, since I couldn't locate it when I changed the oil 2 weeks ago. Finally, the powertrain warranty is for 10-yr or 100K miles, whichever comes first, so it'd be over in 10 years. I'd push for a lifetime transmission warranty up to 100K miles, AND that it's transferable, so the value doesn't plummet even more for having such a repair. I'd automatically pass on such a vehicle regardless of price, and I'm probably not the only one, so there's a value decline having had such transplant.
. By the way, the high flow pump doesn't require special calibration, so that one could be replaced by dealers, but the one that is failing (unfortunately) is the other one. Having said that, I don't know which is the pump that is visible (in front of the transmission/engine). The other must be at the rear, since I couldn't locate it when I changed the oil 2 weeks ago. Finally, the powertrain warranty is for 10-yr or 100K miles, whichever comes first, so it'd be over in 10 years. I'd push for a lifetime transmission warranty up to 100K miles, AND that it's transferable, so the value doesn't plummet even more for having such a repair. I'd automatically pass on such a vehicle regardless of price, and I'm probably not the only one, so there's a value decline having had such transplant.Makes sense that there wouldn't be other damage. From what I have been able to put together, as long as the code is active the car is, at the very least, stuck in limp mode until it is reset, so I don't see people with active codes driving their Santa Fes into the dealer for the recall, so it seems to me that they either come in on a tow truck with active codes and get a transmission or they come in under full power for an inspection for codes that don't exist then and get sent away after wasting their time? Surely there has to be something more to it...lol! Hopefully they at least get asked if they have had any odd behaviors, since we now know that it is possible for it to take temporary "naps" without throwing any code.Inspection would only mean checking codes. There's nothing else to check. The problem with the high-pressure pump is specialized equipment is required to calibrate the new pump, and THAT is the issue. And no damage at all when the pump fails; the transmission simply ceases to operate, as there's no hydraulic pressure, so nothing happens to it. It's like having air tools but no air pressure
I probably won't need more than the 10 years, either, but that's a good point on transferability. Something to look into, for sure.
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46 Posts
I’ve had the loss of acceleration issue multiple times in my 2019 Santa Fe 2.0T LTD AWD. Mine has never thrown any codes, I’ve had it at 2 different dealers and they both say the same thing. Nothing they can do since there are no codes.
It’s beyond frustrating, our 2015 Sonata went into limp mode too with no codes, it took about a year and all the Hyundai hoops but the engine was replaced.
I just hope the Santa Fe doesn’t leave me stranded on the interstate. Any suggestion or ideas?
It’s beyond frustrating, our 2015 Sonata went into limp mode too with no codes, it took about a year and all the Hyundai hoops but the engine was replaced.
I just hope the Santa Fe doesn’t leave me stranded on the interstate. Any suggestion or ideas?
Run 91 octane and do a drain and fill of the trans fluid.
I don't think the the 2019 was affected like the 2017's were but there was a TSB for "shift shock" where if you were turning and/or went over a bump, the ESC (I think) would kick in and deliberately decrease power and you kinda "limped" for a few seconds.
But not sure what exactly your symptoms are. There's also the (IMO) ever-annoying safety feature of unintended acceleration (ie, you slow down, but then need to speed up) where it'll decrease power for a few seconds as well.
Yes we are experiencing the same on an irregular basis - mostly on longer trips on long stretches of inclines.
Santa Fe Elite 2018 - we had the Hyundai servicing guy put the settings back to factory settings as he couldn't see what was causing it. That worked for a while but it's happened again.
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1 Posts
I have a 2020 Hyundai Elantra and im currently looking experiencing similar issues. Driving down the road and randomly will lose all power, acceleration, and can hear my engine rev as if I shifted into neutral, and then it comes back with a small jerk like I shifted back into drive. Day before yesterday after my car hadn’t been driven in over 2 weeks I drove it for a little over 2 hours and now my check engine light is on and I have a code of P0847. Of course I looked it up and it’s saying it could be TCM, transmission fluid pressure, low transmission fluid, and or wire failure. I’m been researching and apparently this is a common issue in the IVT CVT Hyundai transmissions.
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