It $4700+tax comes with a 20 gauge liner.

I am paying $745 for replacement walls. I was thinking of replacing my walls when I need to get line replacement done. For now I sanded down my wall and resprayed with rust prevention and epoxy paint. So assuming, I'd need to get liner replaced at 6-7th yr mark, id have a wall ready that time.

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I think you are in the wrong forum……

 

That's very concerming.

 

Hmm, definitely something that needs fixed before getting on the highway again! What is interesting is that the engine would still rev but without any acceleration. Do you happen to know the code that was thrown since the light came on?

 

I could just hear the engine roar when stepping on the gas but the speed never picked up.

Rockets337 sonds like your Automatic transmission let go. if you ask me.?

 

I have no clue but hopefully, it's something that can be addressed quickly.

 

Seems like it's a Calligraphy, so the 2.5T with the DCT-8 tranny. If the engine was revving, it had to be the DCT tranny... but then you should have 'P' (powertrain) codes, not 'C' (chassis) ones. Weird. My guess is something with the clutch(es) mechanism, or 'control' fluid level. Did you try to downshift one gear, to see if the other clutch was working, by any chance? One works odd gears, and the other even gears. Something to remember if something like that happens to somebody else. Good luck with the fix. How many miles? Just curious.

 

Seems like it's a Calligraphy, so the 2.5T with the DCT-8 tranny. If the engine was revving, it had to be the DCT tranny. And the 'chassis' codes confirm that. But what exactly? My guess is something with the clutch(es) mechanism, or 'control' fluid level. Did you try to downshift one gear, to see if the other clutch was working, by any chance? One works odd gears, and the other even gears. Something to remember if something like that happens to somebody else. Good luck with the fix. How many miles? Just curious.

Yes, it's a calligraphy. I didn't even think about trying the paddle shift after seeing the engine light come on but did try switching to different modes without any luck. It only has about 6k miles on it.

 

Are other subforums reporting issues with DCT transmissions as well ? I know hyundai/Kia use the same transmission in multiple cars but strangely most of the issues seem contained to Santa Fe'.

 

Transmission, Johns2.0T is right IMO.

 

At this point, I've a feeling, it might be the transmission too. I wonder how long it will take to get the repair done. There's been no update from the dealer so far. I just noticed this on the bluelink app.

 

It will be a while I would guess. Took a over a month to get a starter replaced for us.

 

Is it easy to get a loaner from the dealer? I understand it depends on the dealer but for issues related to the transmission where it will potentially take months to repair, what options do I have?

 

Let hyundai trouble shoot the issue could turn out to be something simple where a in an hour or two its fixed. Or worse case scenerio being to where something broke internally or failed needing a trany in that case hyundai should accommadate You.. there customer with a loaner to get around in the mean time while its getting repaired. if they cant you will need to get a rental and then have hyundai re-inburse you the cost.

 

Could it possibly be limp mode? That happened to my 21 calligraphy once; it was pretty unnerving, but never happened again (at the dealer when they tried to replicate it, or afterward).

 

Could it possibly be limp mode? That happened to my 21

And what was the reason? Or did it correct itself, and you never took it to a dealer? Man, transmission issues at less than 6K miles is crazy. I like the quirkiness of my DCT, but it still needs refinement. Yesterday, arriving at an uphill driveway, it jerked when shifting from 2nd to 1st, which it shouldn't do. My Palisade used to do that too, and it wasn't even a DCT, so will do the same thing I did with my Pali on the SF from now on: Shift to 1st with the left paddle when encounter that scenario. And also hope I got a good tranny with my April 2022 build date. Crossing fingers.

 

I had an MDX, and service was crap too, so it's everywhere, unfortunately. And the SF Calligraphy is probably more luxurious than the top-line comparable RDX, at least last time I check. And they're just a Honda, like Lexus is Toyota, and Genesis is Hyundai. And yes, the most issues with service I've had it with my local Hyundai dealer. I only keep buying them because they seem the most reliable, the best bang for the buck, and more importantly, I do all the maintenance. The problem continues to be the way service departments work, which is against the interest of owners, both techs and dealers making more money by rushing the jobs, so I'll never take my cars there until that changes (if ever).

 

Have you found a fix for your hard brake booster problem at startup. Mine just started doing it a few weeks ago. The dealer said that they had not received any service bulletins on it. I wasn't about to have them start tearing into a car that works perfectly well, other than just hard brakes during a start and mess it up even further!

 

How long sitting before they get hard? Just curious.

 

So far about two days, I haven't had to drive every day Next time I drive, I'll make sure to go back out the next day and try them. For sure it's not more than two days.

 

I have experienced loss of power a couple times in my 2021 Limited, including today. The first time it happened I was on a freeway onramp and it just stopped accelerating, no matter how hard I pushed the go pedal. Fortunately, I was already up to speed and it fixed itself without a restart.

Today, I was driving at slow speeds in the city. I was traveling at maybe 15 MPH, and as I was slowing to turn a corner, I heard a couple "bings," said "WTF?," and then when I turned onto the side street the car kept slowing down. Of course it was a hill, too, and I was only able to maybe reach 2 MPH. The engine would not rev, no matter how hard I pushed down on the pedal. At the next intersection I made a U-Turn, because I needed to go back the other way. I got down to the traffic light and when the light turned green, when I tried to go it took what seemed like an eternity to get through the intersection and down to the next light (and I had a line of angry people behind me). At that light, I decided to turn the engine off and restart. It was fine after that until I parked and then fine at the next restart and the drive home. I never noticed any warning lights and nothing shows up in BlueLink. Just those two "bings" before it went flat. I called the dealer and the soonest they can get me in is January 10th, and that was supposedly a "special circumstance" appointment. If it happens again I will just have it towed, but a bit concerned about heading to see family for early Christmas celebration this weekend.

 

Any update to this? I have similar issues now with my 2023 Tucson hybrid. Thanks?

 

Oh man. Once you have an episode (or episodes) like that, I'd also be a bit worried taking a trip with the family. I got a ''recall' letter today, but it's not a freaking recall, since it just says Hyundai is working on a remedy, and if you're affected, just 'sorry for the inconvenience'. It doesn't even say to go get a rental or something. Aholes. Fortunately, I haven't experienced any issues, at least not yet. So will take it to see my daughter for Christmas in a couple of weeks. It'll be a 1,300-mile trip, which should put me right at 8K miles after that. I'm glad to read you don't get immediately stranded after the first time, at least in several cases, like yours. But after such an episode, it means your transmission definitely has an issue already, so not worth taking a big risk IMO. Good luck.

 

Fortunately, we are celebrating at my brother's place this year and he is only about 40 miles away, and most of that is where the car would be easy to be picked up for a tow, but I still dread the thought of having a power loss issue. At the wrong moment it could also create a dangerous situation. I only drove a few miles today, but it was fine and operating normally. I think the thing that is bugging me the most is the lack of a warning message or anything, unless it was so brief that I missed it. Going to try and get codes pulled tomorrow, but guessing I'll come up empty.

 

For what I remember from the other folks who reported exactly your symptoms, they didn't get any codes either until the tranny crapped out. And if I remember correctly, it happened on the 3rd time. You already had 2 episodes, so next time it might leave you stranded; keep that in mind. Hopefully your SF will behave differently, but at this point, I wouldn't venture farther away than where you're going. At that point, you can force Hyundai to give you a rental vehicle while your SF awaits a tranny or pump transplant. I'm going to risk taking mine to Austin again (1,300 miles round trip) in 2 weeks. Good luck.

 

I didn't realize third time was the "charm" on this. In a way, I kind of hope it does, but preferably not this weekend. Hope no problems for you, either!

 

Yeah, we need all the luck we can get. Ha ha. The specific problem is a circuit board coming undone, which I don't know where it is, but I assume (and hope) inside the oil pump, since an oil pump change would fix the issue, without having to open up the transmission. The episodes you're having mean to me that the circuit board has already lost contact momentarily, then regained it. So you're probably like a pothole away from losing contact permanently, so try to avoid any shock like that. Or going off-road, etc. I gave mine a beating while on a family trip. When I encountered freaking dirt to get to a national park, I'd have aborted the trip, since we were almost 2K miles away from home, and didn't want the SF crapping out there. But the family wouldn't approve, so I grudgingly continued. Ha ha. The good news for me was that if mine was bad, it'd have crapped out there, since it was awful. And with the non-existent engine braking, I had to go much faster than I wanted, or would have messed up the brakes instead. So the car sped up (upward of 4K rpm trying to engine-brake), then I braked, and repeated that cycle like a million times for 18 miles. Then the awful starts in Seattle from what seemed like 45-deg inclines. Ha ha. So I feel reasonably confident my SF should be good for at least several thousand miles of just highway driving, but guess we'll see . Let us know if all went well on your trip.

 

I imagine reaching higher temperatures could also cause a separation in the solder. I had that problem with the distributor in a previous car. When it would heat up the engine would quit and then it would run again once it cooled down. Do you live in Seattle, or was that a visit? I am in Seattle. Avoiding potholes isn't the easiest thing to do. The street I drive on the most seems like it's out of a third world country...lol!

 

I scanned for engine codes today and, as expected, there were none. Then I pulled the memory card from my dashcam to review, which was actually helpful. There were a couple things that were different from how I remembered. The first difference is that there was actually a series of three sort of double bings rather than two bings as I had thought. Then, when going up the hill the engine does actually rev a bit, though speed does not increase. I had thought the engine stayed at idle. Anyway, in the vid, you will hear the dings as I am just about to turn the first corner. Then I very slowly get up the hill, turn around and come back down to the stop light. I probably should have turned the engine off at that point or sooner, but was thinking maybe it would recover and be okay like the previous time. When the light changed you can see I am barely moving to make my left turn (thankfully there were no other cars coming the other way!), and I say "sorry" to the guy behind me who is waving his arms at me...lol! I didn't upload the next vid section, but it was the next light where I restarted the engine and everything returned to normal. I don't know if it will be helpful, but I plan to share the video with the service department, since I doubt they will find any problems unless it takes a total dump before then. So, here's the link:

Loss of Drive/Power

 

Can't see your dash to see what's going on, but thank you for posting the video. On a DCT transmission, the clutches are hydraulic, so when the high-pressure pump doesn't work properly, the clutches lose clamping force, allowing them to slip, which is what you probably experienced momentarily. Once the pump craps out, the clutches just open up, and the vehicle goes nowhere.
I was in Seattle just visiting, but never want to go back. Ha ha. I'm not a big city guy. We liked Portland a lot better. But anything is nicer than the crappy city I live in. Ha ha. But hope to remedy that soon. Hopefully your SF can last until Hyundai comes up with a fix now that it's cold. Keep us posted.

 

I'm not really a city person, either, and would LOVE to get out of here, but I actually prefer Seattle over Portland. Not sure why. I am hoping to eventually move out to one of the ocean beach areas.

So, about the transmission. The good news is that we made it to the family brunch. The bad news is that we didn't make it home. At least not in the Santa Fe. After we left my brother's house we got about 5 miles and it took a dump on the highway at 80 MPH. We were three lanes out, but fortunately I was prepared for it and there was enough of a break in heavy traffic to calmly move right and get to the shoulder. I started the process as soon as I heard the series of dings and felt the the car start to slow. The other stroke of luck was that there just happened to be a widened shoulder area right there, so we didn't have to stop right up against the fog line. Unlike the previous times, it completely lost drive, so couldn't move at all and engine restarts didn't fix it. We had to wait almost 3.5 hours for the tow truck, so I was glad it wasn't the engine anyway, so we had heat. Then had to take a 30 mile ride in the tow truck to the nearest dealer. Then a 25 mile lift ride home from there. All in all it took us 5 hours to get home. For some reason, Bluelink sent a message at 8:30 this morning that a panic alert was received from the car from the location where it broke down. I hope they didn't send someone out there looking for it...lol! Anyway, it's still pretty early, but the service department has not looked at it yet. I don't need a car today, so I will wait until they have and then work on the process of dealing with them for a loaner or rental, I guess. Expecting that we won't have the Santa Fe for at least a couple months.

 

The bad news is that we didn't make it home.

Darn, brother. Sorry to hear that. And also sorry for predicting that the 3rd time would be 'fatal' for sure... but at least you got 3. With some other owners, it crapped out the first time. Hey, is your SF AWD or FWD? Just curious. I think it's AWD due to a flat badge I see to the left of the '2.5T', but just to make sure. All of the failures I've seen where folks state what it is, have been AWD, so I'm hopeful my FWD will be spared. Ha ha. I'd like to know what's different about the AWD vs FWD transmission, but I found no info. My guess is the housing has to be different, since there's no space to just add the transfer case to the transmission, being transversely mounted. And that might have changed the location of the oil pumps on the tranny. If anybody finds anything, please post it. But so far Hyundai apparently hasn't said it's just AWDs, at least not yet. Please keep us posted, and best of luck.

 

What I noticed on mine when having to engine brake a lot, like when I was in Seattle, and that awful off-road trail I had to drive for miles, is the cooling fan took a long time to turn off after shutting the engine off. That never happened before, especially when in the 80s, not 100s, and not dogging the vehicle, but just engine-braking. Guess the tranny doesn't like that, because the engine itself doesn't even fire, and should cool down. The lurching is a little annoying, but I don't even think the TSB fixes that. The ECU applies rpm when you're almost stopped and in gear, be R or D. It's not that bad on my SF, but get used to how you need to brake to be smooth. And taking off is not a problem, but it's smoother when 'auto hold' is engaged, so I use it often. But if it was getting worse over time, then it wasn't normal for sure. The question is if the TSB would have fixed that or not. Maybe that's why they force dealers to do it? But doesn't sound related to the pump issue to me; it's more like a programming thing only. Hopefully we can get more answers as other owners get affected. Oh, and maybe AWD trannies behave a little different; mine is FWD. Thank you for posting your experience.

 

Strangely, I have only noticed my electric cooling fan on a few times, even when in high temps. Even when we drove out to South Dakota last July and left the car idling with the A/C on in the national park parking lots (we had the dogs with us so one of us would stay in the car waiting while the other wandered off to see things), it barely ever ran. Here in Seattle I think I have only heard it once or twice. Yeah, I don't know if the lurching is related or not, but it did seem like it had gotten more agressive and frequent recently, so while I can't confirm it is related, I do wonder. I can see how if the pump were to have erratic behavior at all it might cause the clutches to also be a bit weird. I don't know...lol! Transmissions are on backorder, but I have been approved for one and will hopefully hear soon how long the wait will be. I don't expect it to be as smooth as a torque converter auto after replacement, but it will be interesting to see if there are differences from the old one.

 

I don't know. I have a scanner, but I was never able to plug it in after actually getting a code to see if it would read them for the transmission. Maybe had I been smart I would have had it with me and done that while waiting the 3.5 hours for the tow truck! It's not the same one you have anyway. All that I have is what shows up in my Bluelink app, which is P1C2D03, but when the service advisor called me earlier I think he read off two codes that they pulled.

Very true about frying the clutches, though I don't know how much that matters if they are replacing the transmissions anyway. Assuming that's what they are really doing. My comment in the other thread about the failure rate being higher than hitting something in the road was not meant to be taken too seriously, BTW, but I do wonder what the rate actually is and whether or not it will grow. I'd also like to know how it compares to Theta II failures, especially when they were at the one or two year mark.

It is very possible that they are refurbishing the transmissions, but I do wonder if failure of the pump causes any other damage. Otherwise, why wouldn't they just send out new pumps to be installed in the car? From what I have seen, the pump is right on the side of the transmission and it appears it could be replaced with the transmission in the car. If a rebuild were as simple as just replacing the pump, it doesn't seem like it would make economic sense to pull the transmissions, send them for "rebuild," and then send them back to dealers if they could just replace the pumps at the dealers without removing the transmission. I don't really care whether or not it is refurbished as long as it is done right and doesn't fail again in 9,000 miles. I'll see what I can find out later from them. Since I only put about 5K on the car every year I'll probably never pass the 100K warranty anyway, so as long as it's covered until then, I'm good.

BTW, I forgot to mention before that you made a comment about maybe being one pothole away from failure. My brother lives down a dirt road, so you may have been onto something there and maybe that's what finished mine off.

 

Another thing I wonder is about the recall solution. It seems they have not finalized anything, but everything seems to point to an inspection and then replacement of the transmission if necessary. I have been trying to figure out what the heck that would mean. The only thing to inspect, that I can think of, would be to pull the pump and look at the circuit board. Otherwise, there really isn't anything to learn unless there has already been a failure, and at that point, it comes back again to "why not just replace the pump?" Or maybe they look for a serial number on the pump to fall within a certain range?