I couldn't get my '11 Ltd to Lock with the FOB on the seat (door handle Btn & arm rest Lock Btn).

https://www.hyundaiusa.com/assurance/roadside-assistance.aspx

Hyundai 800-243-7766 Road Svc onlne site shows LOCK-OUT COV incl'd (for 1st OWNER) and Cvg is 5 yrs Unlimited (+) Call Dealer in case they know a trick to try first.
When you call 1-800-243-7766 for Roadside Assistance, please provide the following:

• Your Name
• Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) - located on the driver's side dashboard
• Vehicle Mileage
• Vehicle Location
• Description of Your Vehicle's Problem

Good luck and report what the problem turned-out to be .

 

Thanks but I'm the second owner. I will wait until the wife gets home with the spare set and I hope those work!

 

5 Year 60000 mile warranty



You did not state how many miles are on your.

However, the5 Year 60000 mile warranty goes with the car, not the owner and I belive (not positive) that the roadside assistance is 5 years and unlimited mileage as part of the basic warranty.

Just a thought!

WCW

 

My guess would be the battery in the fob. If the battery is weak, the system might not detect the fob is nearby?

 

One of my early SWAG guesses. Don't fail to learn WHY you can Lock the FOB when inside the car.

'11 Manual Pg 4-11
1. Insert a slim tool into the opening and
gently pry open the rear cover of the
smart key.
2. Replace the battery with a new battery
(CR2032). When replacing the battery,
make sure the battery positive “+” symbol
faces up as indicated in the illustration.

 

The range is very limited on the FOD (with regards to the push buttons on the door handles/trunk lid), they're four antennas used on the keyless entry, one on the driver's side, one on the passenger's side, one in the trunk and one behind the rear bumper. You may be just out of range with the keys on the center console especially if the battery is a little weak.

 

You may be just out of range with the keys on the center console especially if the battery is a little weak.

This is what I'm thinking might be the problem. The signal just isn't close enough to the door button and the wife hit the lock button on the second fob while getting in her car this morning. I plan to do some testing with the fob in the car tonight and try and duplicate what happened.

 

ok, here is the scoop...you CAN lock your second set of keys in your car with the other fob & you must have the other fob to unlock the car. I tried locking each fob in the car with the other fob and you can only unlock the car with the exterior fob. I tried locking a set in the car using the door button and you can't lock the doors if only 1 fob is present. So in my case, my fob was in the car, the wife hit the lock button somehow while the spare was in her purse and drove off to work leaving me unable to open the doors even though my fob was in the car. don't believe me, try it This is not a very smart setup for a locking system.

 

I've never been able to lock a fob in the car whenever the wife leaves her purse in there. It does however lock in the trunk. I just have to lock it with my fob button.

 

did you just try locking the doors with just the fob inside or lock it with the spare fob from the outside with the lock button on the fob?

 

Get the car open, go to Wal-Mart and visit the jewelry/watch display, grab a 2 pack of 2032 battery and change battery in them 3yr old remotes.

I dont like it when I get car with "intermittant black dash/dont see remote"
concern and it wrote up as warranty.. likely aged/weak battery in remote, and I get paid for 12 minute time (testing/replacing remote battery that is customer pay) ,,, add in the FREE 30+ to verify all is well that warranty not paying for because there is nothing wrong with materials-workmanship with car...

Todays car fits above (along with a few other I got stuck with).. test battery weak (tech discretion to numbers on Hyundai tester as there is no published values from Hyundai as to good battery/weak battery)..

Install new battery so I know remote has plenty of electric and able to transmit strong RF signal.. customer only left 1 remote.. I suppose they dont have a 2nd, or they dont use it, so battery not discharged like remote that is used constantly and battery used up.

GDS all modules for fault, no DTC recovered anywhere.. start car, works every time as tested randomly throughout the day.. No problem found, no warranty pay for the GDS and random testing, that be on my dime.. customer will be buying the battery for the remote though

Replace your remote batterys every couple year, them tiny wafer battery dont last forever.

Use your key once in a while in the cylinders to keep them loose and able to rotate.. they'll get stuck from lack of use... trunk latch is really bad offeder due to dirt back there.. had to rattle the key-cylinder on a Genisis to get trunk cylinder to rotate to unlock/open trunk..

 

I will replace battery in both units and re-test this weekend

 

With the windows down so you do not have an accident,, or remove the metal keys so you at least have ability to use key cylinder on the door in case of BOO-BOO

 

you're car should have blue link you can just do the remote unlock from a computer or phone app can't you?

 

Only if he is a paid subscriber.

 

Good post about batteries. As a result I replaced the batteries in both our keyless remotes. Sonata is 42 months old and was due for new remote batteries.

Bob

 

I have a 2011 SE and this is what happens with mine.

I put my remote FOB in my pocket rolled down the drivers window and got in.

All doors lock when I push the lock on the FOB or when I push the lock on the arm rest.

If I reach out and push the lock button on the outside door handle (once) I get a long warning tone. If I push that same button two times consecutively I get the long warning tone then the door locks.

If I leave the FOB in the car, get out and push the lock button on the armrest then close the door the door unlocks.

This is how mine operates.

 

I have a 2011 SE and this is what happens with mine.

I put my remote FOB in my pocket rolled down the drivers window and got in.

All doors lock when I push the lock on the FOB or when I push the lock on the arm rest.

If I reach out and push the lock button on the outside door handle (once) I get a long warning tone. If I push that same button two times consecutively I get the long warning tone then the door locks.

If I leave the FOB in the car, get out and push the lock button on the armrest then close the door the door unlocks.

This is how mine operates.

If I only use one fob, I also get the long warning tone when trying to lock the doors with the fob inside.

In this post, I'm talking about one fob inside the car, locking the car with the spare fob then taking the spare fob out of range. The doors will not open by hitting the door handle botton to unlock even though a fob is in the car. I doubt it is battery related because I can hold the fob an arm lenght behind me and the car still gets the signal when hitting the door handle button...but I will replace the battery this weekend and see what happens.

 

yes, that is what happened. I think some people may have not read the first post correctly. This situation is using both fobs, not just one. For $5 I will buy a battery and test with a new battery just to rule it out, and have a new battery. Just something good to know in case it happens to somebody else.

It was just a fluke that the wife somehow hit the lock button in her purse before driving 40 miles away while I left my fob in the car the night before and got stuck being locked out. What luck I have lol.

 

replaced the battery and the fob is still able to be locked inside the car with the spare. moral of the story, take your spare fab away from your wife.

 

I just read the posts in this tread again. Good information. I feel the previous poster missed the true moral of the story. Blaming the wife for hitting her remote and locking the doors is not the true moral. I do know he was joking? Actually, none of us should leave the key remote in the auto unattended. Take your keys and this cannot happen!

 

Last posts in Feb 2014 - Over a year ago? This problem has not gone away, has it? I see no solutions and no tech bulletins, so what is the latest?
This has happened once before to me, on one FOB, about 5 months ago, but seemed to be resolved.
Today it struck again.
So, I too have this problem on my 2011 SE (new-Feb 2011).


The car starts ok with inserting either key FOB in the console slot, car runs after I pull the FOB out, but will still not start car as a remote FOB -- still not recognized.
This is for both FOBS, brake light work OK so does not appear to be a switch, brand nee batteries in both FOBS, although the old ones were only about 3 months old.


FOBS are in the house (not in the cold). Car is garaged (Not in the cold-cold) and even when it was cold soaked in a commuter parking lot for 12 hours on Friday, car started ok.


I see several complaints on other web sites, but I see no resolution. Has there been one?

 

Went to dealer. Yay for the 5 YR BTB warranty. Both fobs were DOA. Will drop car off in the morning and let them reprogram new fobs.
Once I use the contact slot in the center console to start the car, car works just fine, even after removing the fob from the slot.

 

I just tried to repeat your experience and I could not get locked out the car. I threw my key fob into the trunk and closed it. The car did not beep.I went to the driver door and tried to open it and it beeped I then went to the trunk and it didn'topened for me, them i contact Margate Locksmith for the new key fob and they help me.

 

car locked with key fob in the car

I forgot my keys in the car last night and when I went to get in it this morning the doors were locked. I never pressed the lock button when I got out, so how did the car automatically lock? I had to call my daughter at 3 this morning for her to bring my extra set of keys to get in my car. Has this happened to anyone else?

 

I forgot my keys in the car last night and when I went to get in it this morning the doors were locked. I never pressed the lock button when I got out, so how did the car automatically lock? I had to call my daughter at 3 this morning for her to bring my extra set of keys to get in my car. Has this happened to anyone else?

The RFID and locking system on the 2011 leaves a lot to be desired. Lots of times it takes virtually nothing to confuse it. We get ours into a position where the mechanical lock/unlock button on the drivers panel doesn't work. We have to shut the door, lock with fob...unlock with fob and it will settle down. Most times I get annoyed enough I do it the ol fashion way with my fingers!

Seems like if you get lock/unlock commands and the fob is in the car it can get confused easily.

 

This is actually a safety feature. You can't unlock the door with the door handle button if the fob is inside the car because if you could, someone that wanted to carjack you could just come up to the car and press the button and open your door. Nothing more, nothing less.

 

So the Hyundai engineers couldn't separate the interior unlock button from the exterior? My Fusion does.

 

Get another door key made. Grind the end down so it fits in a hide-a-key. Place hide-a-key somewhere on the exterior of vehicle. Never worry about the door locking you out again.