I installed this reversing camera to my 2012

 

I installed this reversing camera to my 2012

Thanks, I’ll look into that.

Does anyone have any advice about the proximity keys? What’s the best way of diagnosing what’s wrong with it? You guys are my last resort before taking it to the dealership!

 

Have you checked all the fuses

 

Hi! I’ve checked:
6. 10a - cluster
18, 7.5a - BCM, Smart Key Control Module, PDM
26, 10a - PDM, Smart Key control module fob holder, start / stop button switch

All look fine.

 

I’ve got my IX35 back from my local Hyundai dealer (Coupers) after they ‘diagnosed’ the keyless system fault. I’m now £79 short and my keyless is still not working! They’ve reprogrammed the keys and carried out a live data check on door locking / unlocking fobs which came back ok. They wanted a further £350 to remove the headlining to check a wiring loom for possible broken wire which their Hyundai technical found a similar case for? He had what looked like a manual for what to check for in the roof liner but I wasn’t allowed to see it apparently. I said no removing the head lining as I just can’t justify spending a further £429 and the system still doesn't work. I’m already £79 with nothing to show for it.

does anyone know how I can access this technical manual, or at least the wiring diagrams so I can attempt to look myself?

 

Update:

I purchased a Hyundai VCI + GDS software and I've run all the tests that were available with the following results:
View attachment 453909 View attachment 453910
View attachment 453911 View attachment 453912

• When I run the actuation test on all the antennas the result comes back "success" View attachment 453914

I then tried the test on the antennas. GDS will tell you where to place the fob in the car so it's near the applicable antenna. For every antenna I get "test failure !!!":
View attachment 453915

I then went to the "Diagnosis" section of GDS where it allows me to view the current data from various sensors and they all appear to be 'normal' to my (very) untrained eye, with the exception of the doors being the wrong way around, eg:

• When I press the drivers door button it the "assist door" handle sensor changes from off to on
• When I press the passenger door button the "driver door" handle sensor changes from off to on

Everything else seems normal:

• External buzzer changes from "off" to "on" when I activate it
• Immobilizer indicator changes from "off" to "on" when it's illuminated
• Start/Stop button changes from "off" to "on" when I press it
• When the vehicle is locked the "SMK Power Mode State" is reported as "Off Lock".

So it looks like the cars system is working ok (?) the antennas are just not finding the keys.
1) Could it be all my antennas faulty?
2) Both my keys proximity function is broken? I've swapped their batteries 3 times (Duracell and Energiser brands) already!

Before I bought this diagnostic kit I noticed the following behaviours which I thought were odd:

• I could leave my sunroof open and lock the car without it activating the warning buzzer. Suggests it could be broken wiring above the headliner as the car can't confirm the sunroof status (open, closed etc)
• Once I had started the engine with the fob in the centre console holder; I could remove the key straight away and the car would continue to run without any warnings from the car. This seemed odd from a security POV as the car was effectively driving without a key! Either way, now I've used the diagnostic equipment the car does indeed activate the external/internal buzzer once I remove the key, open a door and then close it.

 

Has this always been the case with the car for the smart key function? Has any work been performed inside the car around the dash or glove box?

 

RF Receiver Unit

It lives bolted on the frame work behind the glove box/Airbag pad left of the stereo I guess. I don't remember which part removed gave me best access but I remember removing the glove box and the vent/Air bag pad. You'll need to remove the side cover on that side of the dash to expose screws and unclip it.

I'd check it's all connected, antenna on top and power connector below. Reading all the evidence you listed I realised this was the same scenario I found myself in after this.

1 connector, missed it by that much! Easy to fault find though when you go to broken in one action at your own hands.

 

F2 10amp powers the receiver but it also powers a lot of other stuff like the BCM, interior lights etc. So if it was blown you'd have even more issues which you appear not to have.

 

With the GDS try the serial communication Line check and select receiver communication line check

 

Both tests complete OK.

I've been digging through the GDS manual and I've noticed a few other things:

• I'm missing the "Key out indicator lamp" input switch as a option to test which I should have (image taken from GDS manual):

• The sunroof schematics shows a key in/out signal. I think this is the wire my Hyundai dealer thought could be damaged and wanted to inspect

• I think my my antenna actuation "success" results are actually false. When reading the manual it states:

  4. If the LED of smart key is blinking, the smart key is normal."

  The LED on my key doesn't blink, suggesting it's not receiving/sending anything as it should. I get "success" even if I leave the key in the house! I have swapped both key batteries three times, all with high quality (Duracell, Energiser, Varta) batteries. The fob buttons operate from long range and the LED blinks when I press them so I'm incredibly confident the fob / batteries aren't at fault.

 

Wilhelm35 said:
I think my my antenna actuation "success" results are actually false. When reading the manual it states: The LED on my key doesn't blink, suggesting it's not receiving/sending anything as it should. I get "success" even if I leave the key in the house! I have swapped both key batteries three times, all with high quality (Duracell, Energiser, Varta) batteries. The fob buttons operate from long range and the LED blinks when I press them so I'm incredibly confident the fob / batteries aren't at fault.

I have 4 button type and the holder in the console.

Success means the command was sent. The result is what you observe. No blinky blinky red light = fail My led was blinking and I used antenna 2 with the fob on the lid

I tried the serial comms check and it was profoundly uneventful. I still think it's worth having a look at the receiver and /or reseating the connectors. Nothing to lose.

 

It's keyless so I don't think key out would be a valid item.

 

“Key out” is illuminated if the smart key is not found in the vehicle when the engine is running I believe?

 

 

Also, any possibilty cable unplugged whilst fiting stereo at the SMK unit? Connector B 16pin, that is all the antennas on one connector

 

It’s certainly possible, this will be my next thing to check before removing the headliner. Do you have “Key out indicator lamp” under your switch inputs?

 

 

Ah, so you’ve not got key out either. It’s definitely part of the system as it should illuminate when a door is open and a key is not detected in the vehicle

 

do you see it on the cluster? Any images? Also is yours korean build or czech? VIN with K or T? My car is one down from Highlander. All it does if I open the door is the door open lamp, If I hit th estart with no fob, then I get an amber flashing vehicle symbol with a key in side it which looks the same as the immobiliser lamp to me at least.

 

Ok, I got it now. Key out activates once power has been initiated by th estart button and you leave the vehicle with the fob. Flashing red "KEY OUT" lower RHS

 

And that would be detected by the antennas that are not working in your car

 

Yeah that’s it, I can see the “KEY OUT” symbol in my instrument cluster but it’s never illuminated throughout all my tests. I’m just slightly confused as to why it’s not showing as a switch to test if it’s part of the system and the manual shows it as on.

 

It's a rabbit hole. This vehicle is smart key so that is correct.

 

So I’ve taken a gamble and bought a second hand keyless module off eBay, it should arrive next week. My local Hyundai dealer concluded my “key signal” wire above the headliner was damaged and referred to a “Hyundai Tech” article which apparently had the same symptoms I have and the cause was the key signal above the headliner going to ground near the sunroof. I’ve found out a bit more abut this tech article and the symptoms are not the same as I’m experiencing:

• When I look at the key switch in GDS (within the PDM module) it does seem to be working correctly, ie. off when my key isn’t in the fob and on when it is. I’ve tried at numerous times in as many conditions as possible.
• I’ve never had issues with the car not locking / unlocking with the fobs, it has always worked and I’ve never failed to lock / unlock my car

I’m certain my antennas are just inactive, as to why I’m not 100% sure so I’ve decided to take a gamble and replace my Smartkey module. I’ve bought a 2nd hand one on eBay for £35 as they cost a lot from Hyundai new, I think it was around the £600 mark. One hurdle to get around is the module needs to be ‘neutralised’ / ‘unpaired’ from the original car and then paired to mine and to do this I need both cars PIN codes. The same PIN is used to program keys etc. I’ve done a bit of Googling and there are several outlets that claim to be able to calculate the PINs based on the vehicles VIN. Luckily the seller on eBay has sent me the VIN of the donor. So let’s hope

• It is my Smartkey module at fault
• The donor Smartkey module is fully functional
• The calculated PINs I get are correct
• I can successfully pair the replacement to my vehicle

Once I’ve got the donor I understand the procedure as:

1. Remove my old Smartkey Module
2. Connect the donor module
3. Connect car to GDS
4. Use GDS “Neutralization mode’ on Smartkey module. I’ll need to enter the donor car’s PIN
5. Use GDS to learn the, now neutralised, donor SMK by entering my car’s PIN. I can’t seem to find this within GDS?

A few questions:

1. Will I need to neutralise and relearn other linked modules?
2. Will I need to reprogram my keys?

I’ll keep the thread updated .

 

They may calculate the codes but the reputable ones usually need ID and proof of ownership, not sure how you go with the removed one. You're now into an area I don't know. I've neutralised smarts keys and relearnt existing and programmed one new once so I could get a complete set of 2 and I sweated on that one fumbling through it. Obviously cabling is checked and all present and accounted for at these modules?

 

Good news everyone, it does appear it was in fact the SMK that was faulty! Process was as follows:

• Disconnected negative battery terminal
• Remove original (faulty) SMK unit (The hardest part!)
• Connect replacement SMK
• Re-connect negative battery terminal
• Connect VCI to diagnostic port and load up diagnostic software (GDS)
• Neutralise donor SMK by entering the donor car's PIN code. The supplier of the donor module (eBay seller) was able to provide me with the VIN of the donor which allowed me to calculate the PIN using a online (paid for) calculator
• “Learn” the donor module and existing keys by entering my car's PIN code (Calculated using the same paid for site)

Total repair bill was £141:

• £82 for diagnostic software & VCI
• £35 for donor smart key module
• £24 for access to calculator for security pins

The hardest part was removing the old SMK as it's very awkwardly placed above the passenger footwell below the A-Pillar and the security bolts are a bit of a pain to remove. It was also hair raising when I first turned the car on after plugging in the donor SMK as I got numerous errors on the cluster:

• “Check steering lock” message displayed in the instrument cluster with B1978 fault code showing in GDS too
• “Key is not detected” error displayed in the instrument cluster as before.

However this was clearly because the donor SMK was still “paired” to the donor car so it was looking for the wrong keys and wrong code for the steering lock.

Pretty chuffed I managed to do it myself and took the gamble

 

Awesome. You'll appreciate that tool. My primary reason for getting one was key programming. Pays for it self straight up and has saved me a few times now for angle sensors injector coding and epb resets.