I had a 10" 100W-Powered Bazooka installed by a friend at Best Buy/Future Shop...... he took the feed from the installed/standard Hyundai Sub-Woofer.

Sounds great, and you also have the volume/gain adjust via the stock head unit.

:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

 

I'm not sure where all the fuses are in this car yet, but I usually run the remote wire to something like the cigarette lighter fuse or something. Check the book and see which ones turn on with the key on and you'll be fine.

 

With Nav, you don't even have to tap the remote wire from behind the head unit. If you pull the passenger tail light cover inside the trunk, you'll see connectors to the external amplifier. Tap all of the wires there. I just connected my MTX Re-Q there and turns on fine. (I'm still waiting for my sub box to be made/delivered, so I'll let you know of the outcome after everything is complete.)

If you have Infinity, here is the diagram:

 

I just completed my install this week so here are some answers. If you are running 4 guage wire then you can definatley use that rubber grommet halfway up the firwall on the drivers side. Run your power cables along the drivers side of the car under the door sills. Also for the remote wire you can tap the large guage pink wire behind the hood release plastic trim. As far as your signal goes you can tap your factory subwoofer in the rear deck. It is a dual voice coil subwoofer and has all the wiring you need. I just installed my 15" titanium eclipse subwoofer and a 1500 watt bazooka amp.

 

hockeygod 1225,

So when you tap the audio feed from the rear amp are you disconecting the rear amp by doing this or are you just spliting the signal into the amp so it still works along with the new sub?

 

The stock amplifier will continue to work as normal. All you are doing is basically tapping the connection. You can sidestrip a piece of each of the wires going into the subwoofer and splice in the converter. Your factory subwoofer and all other speakers shoild work perfectly. I have the same exact nav stereo setup so you should be fine. Also if your like me and the bass gets to be too much I added a toggle switch to my remote wire which I ran to the fuse panel cover so I can turn my sub on and off.

 

Here are some pictures that may help. The first is my 0 guage power wire going through the firewall. 4 guage wire will fit through the grommet next to it. The next is a picture of the stock subs wiring . The wiring harness going to each voicecoil of the factory sub unplugs making it easier to work with just plug it back in once complete. The other pictures are of the on and off switch i wired to the remote wire and the bass control knob for my amp. The last is the finished product of the box i built with my sub. I home this helped.

 

QUOTE (hockeygod1225 @ Feb 20 2011, 05:54 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=404669

Here are some pictures that may help. The first is my 0 guage power wire going through the firewall. 4 guage wire will fit through the grommet next to it. The next is a picture of the stock subs wiring . The wiring harness going to each voicecoil of the factory sub unplugs making it easier to work with just plug it back in once complete. The other pictures are of the on and off switch i wired to the remote wire and the bass control knob for my amp. The last is the finished product of the box i built with my sub. I home this helped.

Hope its not off topic. What is a good amp and a sub which is not too pricy yet delivers the base? I am not sure how high power to look for, given the alternator current supply. Any suggestions will be welcome.

 

holy crap talk about support! Thanks all for all the pointers! I think I'm set with all my info now and will certainly post up my end result tomorrow

 

QUOTE (Philth @ Feb 20 2011, 03:40 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=404619

With Nav, you don't even have to tap the remote wire from behind the head unit. If you pull the passenger tail light cover inside the trunk, you'll see connectors to the external amplifier. Tap all of the wires there. I just connected my MTX Re-Q there and turns on fine. (I'm still waiting for my sub box to be made/delivered, so I'll let you know of the outcome after everything is complete.)

If you have Infinity, here is the diagram:

I've actually got the "dimension" sound system. I guess it's the premium system they put in the Canadian sonata's. Still a 7 speaker setup, curious to see if the amp is also located in the rear. Thanks for the diagram!

 

QUOTE (hockeygod1225 @ Feb 20 2011, 05:54 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=404669

Here are some pictures that may help. The first is my 0 guage power wire going through the firewall. 4 guage wire will fit through the grommet next to it. The next is a picture of the stock subs wiring . The wiring harness going to each voicecoil of the factory sub unplugs making it easier to work with just plug it back in once complete. The other pictures are of the on and off switch i wired to the remote wire and the bass control knob for my amp. The last is the finished product of the box i built with my sub. I home this helped.

Great pics! This will help me a ton tomorrow. Very clean setup btw, how does it pound? Any noticeable rattling?

 

Well to be honest it pounds a little too well. Pump 1500 watts to any high performance sub and the results will probably be ground shaking lol. As far as rattles it does rattle a bit but less than with the stock sub. You can turn the bass all the way down on the stock nav unit which cuts off the bass to the door speakers which greatly improved door panel rattles.

 

Well, we need to fix this.

Below is your Dimension Sound diagram. Not much different from the Infinity (JBL) System. If you reference this, you won't need to run a remote power wire the length of the car. Looks like switched power is blue wire (Coded as "L"), pin 7.

 

QUOTE (Philth @ Feb 21 2011, 12:10 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=404814

Well, we need to fix this.

Below is your Dimension Sound diagram. Not much different from the Infinity (JBL) System. If you reference this, you won't need to run a remote power wire the length of the car. Looks like switched power is blue wire (Coded as "L"), pin 7.

Perfect, I think I would just want to keep my trunk and change out the 8" sub for an aftermarket one with its own amp.

 

Thanks for all the Wiring Diagrams....they're priceless.
Question,
Can we get 12v power somewhere in the trunk ?...My Chrylser 300 had the battery in the trunk, no need to take apart door sills, dash panes, and risk more rattles.

 

Sure you can. It all depends on what your powering and how much amperage it's going to draw.

 

QUOTE (Skeezy @ Feb 21 2011, 09:38 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=404922

Perfect, I think I would just want to keep my trunk and change out the 8" sub for an aftermarket one with its own amp.

That's exactly what I'm doing. I'm adding a JL 8W7 in a ported box and a JL 250/1 amp. I hope it's enough to compliment the Infinity mids and highs. I've had subs in the past that are way too much overkill for the stock mids and highs and am trying to avoid that this time around.

 

Amp/Sub Walkthrough

All wiring for Sonata

 

Which sound system is in the Limited? Dimension or Infinity?
Thanx

 

QUOTE (Philth @ Feb 21 2011, 11:30 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=404955

That's exactly what I'm doing. I'm adding a JL 8W7 in a ported box and a JL 250/1 amp. I hope it's enough to compliment the Infinity mids and highs. I've had subs in the past that are way too much overkill for the stock mids and highs and am trying to avoid that this time around.

That's not exactly what you're doing.

He's swapping out the 8" sub in the deck for a better one. (which many here would be very interested in the results without adding another amp)
You're adding a sub box and an amp.

 

QUOTE (Stevies3 @ Feb 21 2011, 12:19 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=405001

Which sound system is in the Limited? Dimension or Infinity?
Thanx

The front door speaker grills and the head unit will have the Infinity logo.

 

QUOTE (Plasma George @ Feb 21 2011, 12:43 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=405010

That's not exactly what you're doing.

He's swapping out the 8" sub in the deck for a better one. (which many here would be very interested in the results without adding another amp)
You're adding a sub box and an amp.

Yeah I saw that with the separate thread he posted. The factory amp is the weak link for sure. You would be surprised how much better even factory speakers will sound.

BTW for everybody's info, the JBL amp found within the Infinity systems is the SAME EXACT amp within the JBL MS-8.

 

QUOTE (Philth @ Feb 21 2011, 02:41 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=405031

The front door speaker grills and the head unit will have the Infinity logo.

So I guess my SE non-Nav would be a Dimension??

I didn't really notice it until the other day when it was 70 outside but man this steareo is weak!!! It sounds great when the windows are closed, but as soon as I open them up it doesn't sound nearly as loud. I didn't want to get into the whole "system" thing, but I might have to now. I think if I add a sub, it would really drown out the highs and mids. It has to be one of the weakest systems that I've had. I will say that it doesn't distort at all when it's turned all the way up though!

 

QUOTE (BigSlick @ Feb 21 2011, 02:13 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=405054

So I guess my SE non-Nav would be a Dimension??

I didn't really notice it until the other day when it was 70 outside but man this steareo is weak!!! It sounds great when the windows are closed, but as soon as I open them up it doesn't sound nearly as loud. I didn't want to get into the whole "system" thing, but I might have to now. I think if I add a sub, it would really drown out the highs and mids. It has to be one of the weakest systems that I've had. I will say that it doesn't distort at all when it's turned all the way up though!

Do you have a subwoofer on the rear deck? If so, then you have a Dimension sound system. If not, then you have the standard 6 speaker system.

 

Should I be able to see the bottom of the speaker if its there? I see a black plastic cover but not the actual speaker.