Check maybe your battery is dry

 

QUOTE (blackbullet @ May 9 2009, 09:36 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=234886

Check maybe your battery is dry

It has a sealed battery, how do i check it?

 

You can go to your neighbourhood workshop. Normal idling RPM should be around 850 - 960 nearly below the 1K RPM mark.

 

QUOTE (blackbullet @ May 12 2009, 09:58 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=235500

You can go to your neighbourhood workshop. Normal idling RPM should be around 850 - 960 nearly below the 1K RPM mark.

my car idles around 600, would this be related to the battery?

 

Most probably. Anyway, it does no harm to send your car for a check.

 

wich engine do you have?

 

It is a 1.4


I had the battery checked and it seems fine. I have no issues starting the car. I changed the plugs yesterday and it still idles at 600.

This week twice whilst driving the car, it switched off. I was driving along in and felt the power go, then it switched off, i tried to start it and it didnt start. On the third swing it started, then i had no issue for the rest of my journey.

Should i chang the battery anyway?

 

hi,

Don't change the battery. I'm suspecting this has something to do with fuel delivery system. You should go to the garage for an error scan and pinpoint the source. But before you go there you should clean all sensor and spark contacts and double check the connections.

Lemme get this straight: you had trouble before or after the service?



cheers,
mark

 

Battery, checked and fine.

Next you ought to check your mass air flow sensor (MAF). Dirt and oil might be sticking around your sensor that causes the rough idling.

Hope this helps, cheers! :grin:

 

hi i also have the 1.4L getz

i found that when the car first starts (aka its cold) it idles at around 950rpm, but then when the car is at operating temp, it idles at round 700rpm which is nice cus its efficient for when ur sitting at the lights.

i also have noticed the 500rpm problem in my getz but the way i fixed it was i changed my driving style to suit the getz. ive found cus the car has a heaps heavy flywheel, yet quite a small amount of torque, i have to clutch in at bout 22kmph (when im slowing down) it usually doesnt happen when i do this. sometimes it will but thats cus i might clutch in/out too hard. the shaking/vibrating thing is when the puter sees that the car is about to stall and starts dumping fuel into the cylinders to keep the engine going. i have the manual tho so im not sure if its relevant to u.

apart from that i would say get ur sensors cleaned cus they might be sending false info to the puter. it doesnt sound like a battery problem so i wouldnt worry bout that too much, but if u are concerned bout the battery. supercheap auto do a free battery test (yes i work for them lol)

if u bring the car to them they can test the whole electrical system, (altenator, battery and amps drain on the battery) so then u can clarify if it is this that is the problem cus from experiance i can say that alot of batteries die during the winter lol .

neways thats my two cents,

hope it helps

ciao

 

QUOTE (marek46 @ May 28 2009, 03:21 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=238888

hi,

Lemme get this straight: you had trouble before or after the service?

Yes, i then sent the car for a service, hoping that a service will fix it.

QUOTE (basscreator89 @ May 29 2009, 12:44 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=239097

i found that when the car first starts (aka its cold) it idles at around 950rpm, but then when the car is at operating temp, it idles at round 700rpm which is nice cus its efficient for when ur sitting at the lights.

i also have noticed the 500rpm problem in my getz but the way i fixed it was i changed my driving style to suit the getz. ive found cus the car has a heaps heavy flywheel, yet quite a small amount of torque, i have to clutch in at bout 22kmph (when im slowing down) it usually doesnt happen when i do this. sometimes it will but thats cus i might clutch in/out too hard. the shaking/vibrating thing is when the puter sees that the car is about to stall and starts dumping fuel into the cylinders to keep the engine going. i have the manual tho so im not sure if its relevant to u.

I understand this, but my point is that the car was fine for 2.5 years, idling at 950rpm, no shudder, why should it drop now?



QUOTE (blackbullet @ May 29 2009, 09:48 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=239080

Next you ought to check your mass air flow sensor (MAF). Dirt and oil might be sticking around your sensor that causes the rough idling.

I took the car into Hyundai on Friday, the service manager was confident that he could fix the issue. So i get a call that the car is sorted and its ready for me to collect. I get there and the SM tells that they ran i diagnostics on the car and it shows everthing is fine, so they regapped the plugs, cleaned the MAF and other sensors and reset the CO's. He said that this fixed the idle but he couldnt cause the car to switch off. I was fine with this, as the car onl switches off once in a week or so.

So i take the car home after it warms up i see the idle drops to 600 again and i get the shudder again. I call the SM and he tells me to take the car back. Then the master technician has a look and he adjusts the idle so that is idles at 1000. I ask him about the power loss and then the stall.
I tell him:
Im in gear, at any rev, in any gear at anytime, it happened a few times when the car was cold and a few times when it was hot.
say im at 2500rmp and i feel the car loose power i look at the rev counter and it sits at 2500 i press the accelerator and it it doesnt rev, it stays at that rpm for about 3-4 seconds and then dies. i wait a few seconds and start the car up and it starts up without problems.

The master technician then asks me if i drive the car hard, and i say no, its my wifes car and she is a passive driver. He then tells me that because of our crap fuel in SA there is alot more dirt that clogs up the catalytic converter. And that this is causing the car to stall.

So my first question is, Is this a possible cause???

Next the idle and the shudder was fine for the weekend, and today I check and the idle is back to 600rpm and the shudder is back. And to make things worse the car has stalled 3 times in the last 4 days. Right now im not too concerned about the shudder, I need the stalling to stop. This is my wife car and I cannot have her being stuck at the side of the road.

Can anyone think of a reason why the car will be stalling???

 

hi,

Tnx for the info above. As I have said: fuel delivery system - fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel injectors. Focus here on the fuel filter. If it hasn't been replaced, now would be a good time.
Hope this will do.



cheers,
mark

 

QUOTE (marek46 @ Jun 1 2009, 09:48 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=239738

hi,

Tnx for the info above. As I have said: fuel delivery system - fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel injectors. Focus here on the fuel filter. If it hasn't been replaced, now would be a good time.
Hope this will do.



cheers,
mark

Thanks Mark, i booked it into Hyundai on Wednesday. I will defanitly get them to look at that.

 

Good luck and hope to see your good news in this thread bro... :thumbsup:

 

So here is the latest instalment of my Getz saga.

I took it into hyundai on Wendesday and explained my issues again. The SM remembered and said he would sort it out.

I go to fetch the car in the afternoon and he says all the diagnostics show the car is fine. He says he took the car for a drive himself + the forman drove it and they couldnt get it to cut off. He then said he changed the fuel filter for good measure, and that there was no charge to me. :liebe011:

So i took the car home and it was fine for the day. Last night driving i feel the loss in power again, this time i accelerate, i keep my foot in it, it stutters a bit and recovers with out stalling.

Should i toss in a bottle of injector cleaner for good measure?

Thanks

 

So i guess it helped a bit with changing the filter after all.

I want you to double-check all sensor connections (water, air...) and plugs too. Speaking of plugs: I had an interesting occasion when had my car serviced and I found out later on(few months later) that it had three new plugs and one old (the ceramic part was brown and covered with sort-of dust or something AND one of new ones was a two electrode type plug). Really annoying(!). The result was low idle and stalling. U must do this yourself to be absolute sure (checking and gapping plugs + cleaning sensor connections).

Second attempt: Maybe there is something to do with fuel octanes or it's quality. Try switching to different petrol station. If you have done this too with no good results, then you have a go with injector cleaner. But be careful which one you choose. Go for quality here.
Hope this will work.


cheers,
mark

 

I'm not an expert but hope these helps. Got it from Getz Manual.

Rough Idling, check in sequence for possible error.
1) Fuel Quality
2) ECT (Engine Coolant Sensor) circuit
3) Spark plugs
4) Fuel pressure regulator
5) Fuel pump
6) Fuel lines
7) Idle speed control actuator
8) Compression
9) Piston rings
10) MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor) circuit
11) Ignition timing
12) Timing mark
13) Injectors
14) ECM (Engine Control Module)
15) Cylinder head

Hope this helps.

 

hi,

So its been a while, and still no progress. The cars idle is still in the 600 range, and even worse is that it still stalls while driving.

Ive been to hyundai 3 times now, where i have been told that they checked the feul system, the air intake system and ran multiple diagnostics with no resolution in sight.


A friend of a friend asked me to check the "haul sender unit" ... what is this?


My next step is to take this list to hyundia and watch as everything is checked,

Rough Idling, check in sequence for possible error.
1) Fuel Quality
2) ECT (Engine Coolant Sensor) circuit
3) Spark plugs
4) Fuel pressure regulator
5) Fuel pump
6) Fuel lines
7) Idle speed control actuator
8) Compression
9) Piston rings
10) MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor) circuit
11) Ignition timing
12) Timing mark
13) Injectors
14) ECM (Engine Control Module)
15) Cylinder head

 

hi,

Yesterday I cleaned spark cables connections, narrowed them a bit on spark plugs and widened them on coil so they fit tightly, and now my Lantra feels more responsive and starts easily (this was my primary problem). I think you should do this too, and it'll only take you a half hour or so. Good spark connections are really important - I learned this the hard way... It could be as easy as that.

Hope this will do.



mark

 

hi,


I have not posted in a while and it seems that the getz has gone worse, it now switches off twice per trip and takes 10 minutes to start.

Its gotten so bad that we dont use teh car anymore. I took the car to hyundai yesterday and they checked the sensors, ran a diagnostics and told us nothign is wrong.

there was no printer attached to the diagnostics machine, so i took some pics.

is there anyhitng wrong here?

 

So the engine runs normally in service garage :-(. Check and clean MAF sensor on the intake. And do it yourself so you will be absolutely sure it is cleaned. And check if the fuel filter had really been replaced (must look like brand new one).

I'm telling u this because I had some bad experience in the past, when a mechanic said he replaced smth, and then I found out, it hasn't been (and he charged me the 'replaced' part).

Go and have a look yourself. Some mechanics like desperate ppl like u (and me) for exploiting.

Good luck, and hope u find the source of u'r problems soon.


cheers,
mark

 

The main reason for rough idle, in any fuel injected engine (not just Hyundai), and NO auto computer will reveal or give a trouble code, is DIRTY OR CLOGGED FUEL INJECTORS.

Fuel injectors can get dirty in a split second. From one day to another. Reason is bad fuel (contaminated with water, other fuels or solid particles).

One cheap way to outrule fuel injectors, is to pour a whole bottle of fuel injector cleaner additive to an almost EMPTY tank, then add 10 liters of fuel, no more. then drive your vehicle "hard". That is, revving up you engine a lot, like doing street races.

Try to use up all the fuel in tank, which should be around 1/4th of a tank. Then, when you get home, disconnect the battery for at least one hour. Then reconnect battery and try to start engine.

I am almost sure all your problems will be gone. By disconnecting the battery for a long period (at least one hour), you are indirectly resetting every single parameter and clearing every single trouble code that might have been recorded, including any memory developed and stored by the ECM about driving habits.

Hope this helps.

 

hi,

So i left the car with hyundai for the last week or so and they drove it around and got it to cut out.

They now tell me that they have tested the fuel pump and it seems to be failing.


The car is out of motor plan and they want R2500 for the pump excl vat and labour, that is a bit much dont u think?


Where can i source this pump from cheaper.

Justin

 

The part number is, 3111125000

anyone?

 

So i gave hyundai the go ahead to install the new fuel pump, they fitted it, then told me everything was fine, i fetched it and the next day my wife is driving home and the car dies. this time it wont start. So we get it towed to hyundai and they drive it around with the monitoring computer attached and nwo they tell me that it is the ECU.

The SM tells me that te car is fine and then all the lines drop and the car dies. Today they are sending the ECU for testing.

i have no fait left in this dealership.

Justin