I'm not familiar with this particular coolant, but all others I've used will clearly say if they are pre-mixed or diluted or 50/50 or whatever. Without any kind of language like that I would assume it's concentrated.

 

If shopping for coolant, look to ensure it is HOAT compatible:
“HYBRID ORGANIC ACID TECHNOLOGY (HOAT)

“Hybrid organic acid technology is the third most significant category of engine coolants. The HOAT formulation combines the OAT and IAT formulas. It uses both silicates and organic acid to protect your engine and fight corrosion.”

You can thank yourselves later while patting your back.

 

I think you're right, peachferrari. I didn't understand the chart on the back of the jug at first but I get it now, and I'm pretty sure this is straight coolant not pre-mix. The parts guy was mistaken. That's great. The price was pretty fair for OEM coolant bought from a brick & mortar dealer. Now I've got plenty of coolant for top offs until it comes time to drain & replace, and then I'll still have plenty for that too. If it had been pre-mix, I would need to buy 2 gallons. I should never have to buy again.

 

I bought some Hyundai Pink coolant at the dealer today to top off my overflow reservoir which is getting low. Now I'm confused. The part number is 00232-19098. The parts guy told me it was a 50/50 mix but I see no indication of that on the label. On the back it says that a 50/50 coolant/water mix is "recommended" but there is no indication at all that the stuff in the gallon jug is pre-mixed. In fact, after reading the back label 3 times and examining the chart, I think this is straight coolant. Anybody know for sure? A quick internet search didn't turn up any solid answer. I paid $31.56 for it. That's a reasonable price if this is straight coolant. Check these links.

Don't count on the parts guy. The directions on the label trumps what he says. You can get a cheap hydrometer at any parts store or Walmart and test it yourself. You should always test the coolant in your system for proper temperature range.

http://goto.walmart.com/c/404739/56...MRyDJgUD3QKlAM3uQCh537vhYDc0nrqeRmZWbgbJxpUA6qbYvtUwhoCxAUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://www.autozone.com/heating-and-cooling/antifreeze-coolant-tester/p/peak-antifreeze-coolant-tester/525881_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:HRD:8360258851&gclid=CjwKCAjwkaSaBhA4EiwALBgQaCLBTqjoKtjRYAPO1nUVL5QpMveMkwab92hL02SpaQuG5HAyiGOdKBoCR6AQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

Don't count on the parts guy. The directions on the label trumps what he says. You can get a cheap hydrometer at any parts store or Walmart and test it yourself. You should always test the coolant in your system for proper temperature range.

http://goto.walmart.com/c/404739/56...MRyDJgUD3QKlAM3uQCh537vhYDc0nrqeRmZWbgbJxpUA6qbYvtUwhoCxAUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://www.autozone.com/heating-and-cooling/antifreeze-coolant-tester/p/peak-antifreeze-coolant-tester/525881_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:HRD:8360258851&gclid=CjwKCAjwkaSaBhA4EiwALBgQaCLBTqjoKtjRYAPO1nUVL5QpMveMkwab92hL02SpaQuG5HAyiGOdKBoCR6AQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Thank you for this information. One other question please. In youtube videos, mechanics advise to use a flush product to flush rust, and then a leak sealer product on the final fluid replacement. The old folks always said to not go out of your way to flush too much as it may create a leak. Would you use the flushing additive or the anti-leak additive if you did not think there is a leak?

 

Yes as mentioned by mungo a coolant tester will let you know if its strate coolant or pre-mixed by testing it. that parts guy should of known what coolant he was selling? usually coolant pre-mixed will be labeled 50/50 mixed on the jug. or read 100% concentrated meaning its strate coolant where de-ionized water is needed for this. when in doubt test it. as far as flushing the coolant out on a new vehicle goes there really is absolutley no need to. simple drane and fill will be fine

coolant measuring tool - Google Shopping

www.google.com

 

Pink is concentrated, just as is our long life -19010 dark green

Hyundai TSB states both color is same formula, and can be mixed,, but who want brown coolant ??

 

Never use strait anti-freeze without mixing 50-50. Thirty dollars for a gallon of coolant is crazy expensive. Hyundai isn't in the business of making its own coolant, its obviously rebranded by a larger company like Prestone or similar. There is nothing wrong with going to your local Walmart and buying a named brand coolant that is compatible with any other type of antifreeze. When adding coolant to our equipment at work we just use what I mentioned above in pieces of heavy equipment that cost hundreds of thousands of dollars and more. These machines are put thru way more torture on a daily basis than a vehicle can only dream of.

 

Never use flush products, and don't even bother with water or garden hose shenanigans. The Asian coolants don't have the silicates that cause crud clogging/settling. Just drain/refill radiator and bottle, and repeat more often in the future, especially when taking into the account of how much is removed, or left behind, when compared to capacity.

Even pure 100% EG coolant will have 2-5% water.
50:50 will usually vary from 45 to 55%. Colder climates should take that into account. Blending in a bottle is never exact.

Those <$10 coolant tester will peg if its a concentrate. They usually have their pathetic 'temperature' scales for freeze or boil-over protection and not actually 'ratio'. When cold, just test some water, your old so-called 50:50 coolant, and your new bottle, and you'll understand quickly if its a concentrate or not. Its good to buy one of these testers since most shops are incompetent with services, just like your parts guy. Nothing worse than having some component replaced(whether repair or warranty) and either have it topped off with 100% water or EG. Had this happen at a dealership on a new car with a factory defected radiator(leaked since new) filled with concentrate, and a defective thermostat replaced and topped off with just water(Ford dealer). I can deal with the too much EG as it wouldn't cause a long term problem. Too much water in a cold climate = frozen disaster.

Also seen too many DIY'ers that flush engine/radiator multiple times with water, and then top off with 50:50 not taking into account the gallon of water in the system that doesn't drain out(especially when stoopid automakers don't include front/back block drains like others). The tester would help correct that situation.

Pretty sad that the parts guy doesn't have a clue to what he is selling. BTW, all you have to do is request the MSDS info from your parts guy, and it'll usually have the EG and water content.

This is another reason why I don't buy dealer fluids. They have the full rainbow of coolants, they don't know what can/can't be mixed, some don't even know the bottle ratio, and some bottles are purposely vague. Too hard for Hyundai to use just ONE COMMENT ON THE FRONT LABEL.... CONCENTRATE or 100% or 50:50 or "Do not add water" or "Prediluted". Now, look at all the coolant labels at your autopart store, walmart, and smarter automakers.

Now, look at the back of the bottle and read the ingredients. So, without testing, its perfectly fine to be confused.

 

Never use flush products, and don't even bother with water or garden hose shenanigans. The Asian coolants don't have the silicates that cause crud clogging/settling. Just drain/refill radiator and bottle, and repeat more often in the future, especially when taking into the account of how much is removed, or left behind, when compared to capacity.

Even pure 100% EG coolant will have 2-5% water.
50:50 will usually vary from 45 to 55%. Colder climates should take that into account. Blending in a bottle is never exact.

Those <$10 coolant tester will peg if its a concentrate. They usually have their pathetic 'temperature' scales for freeze or boil-over protection and not actually 'ratio'. When cold, just test some water, your old so-called 50:50 coolant, and your new bottle, and you'll understand quickly if its a concentrate or not. Its good to buy one of these testers since most shops are incompetent with services, just like your parts guy. Nothing worse than having some component replaced(whether repair or warranty) and either have it topped off with 100% water or EG. Had this happen at a dealership on a new car with a factory defected radiator(leaked since new) filled with concentrate, and a defective thermostat replaced and topped off with just water(Ford dealer). I can deal with the too much EG as it wouldn't cause a long term problem. Too much water in a cold climate = frozen disaster.

Also seen too many DIY'ers that flush engine/radiator multiple times with water, and then top off with 50:50 not taking into account the gallon of water in the system that doesn't drain out(especially when stoopid automakers don't include front/back block drains like others). The tester would help correct that situation.

Pretty sad that the parts guy doesn't have a clue to what he is selling. BTW, all you have to do is request the MSDS info from your parts guy, and it'll usually have the EG and water content.

This is another reason why I don't buy dealer fluids. They have the full rainbow of coolants, they don't know what can/can't be mixed, some don't even know the bottle ratio, and some bottles are purposely vague. Too hard for Hyundai to use just ONE COMMENT ON THE FRONT LABEL.... CONCENTRATE or 100% or 50:50 or "Do not add water" or "Prediluted". Now, look at all the coolant labels at your autopart store, walmart, and smarter automakers.

Now, look at the back of the bottle and read the ingredients. So, without testing, its perfectly fine to be confused.

I have the 2015 Sonata 2.0 motor, the one with the lifetime replacement for original owner extended warranty. I have been looking to verify the correct replacement coolant. What source would you trust to answer this question. Question #2. The thermostat appears to be inside a housing. One video reccemends replacing that housing when replacing the thermostat because the housing warps from heat. Do you agree with this idea?

 

Where's the coolant going that's causing the need to top off?

 

Hyundai dont have time at time of build to run them in a bunch of cycles to burp the systems.. that left to dealer to top off at PDI (uhh yea, uh huh).. or at first oil change if mechanic give a hoot to top everything off after the number of drive cycles... kids cant cant fill cooling systems when doing engine replacements, come back for oil change and overflow bottle empty

 

Great reply, deadrx. I'm one of those guys who always changes the coolant at the recommended interval (or sooner), and who flushes with water. The big "however" is that I remove the engine block drain plug(s) before I do the coolant refill. So the residual water in the system is negligible. Have always used coolant concentrate, and then dilute it 50-50 with distilled water. Have never in my life had a cooling or radiator problem. And I'm old! One thing no one mentioned re the question of the concentration of the Hyundai coolant. On the effectiveness chart on the back of the bottle, if it's a 50-50 mix, with most coolants it'll show effectiveness down to -34°F. Just a thought; comments invited!

 

I've had no problem with Peak or Zerex Asian formula.
They are not "compatible with all" universal type coolants.
Mentions Hyundai/Kia on the bottle.

Amazon.com: Zerex Asian Vehicle Green Silicate and Borate Free 50/50 Prediluted Ready-to-Use Antifreeze/Coolant 1 GA : Automotive

Buy Zerex Asian Vehicle Green Silicate and Borate Free 50/50 Prediluted Ready-to-Use Antifreeze/Coolant 1 GA: Antifreezes & Coolants - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

Yes Zerex is Excellent coolant.! & will work fine. but in my area its at the same cost as the dealers wich is why? i use the oem coolant in are Hyundais mind you Zerex coolant is competively priced to use on my VW over VW dealer pricing coolant. wich Zerex is fully compatable to use.

 

Agreed, don't just use any "universal" or "mixes with any coolant" type, it's not worth the risk. I have a Pontiac that takes DexCool and a Jeep that takes HOAT from Chrysler and I don't trust anything else in either one. In the Jeep for example there are numerous instances of people having problems even with just topping up without using the right stuff. Now there are some store brands from AutoZone or O'Reilly that specifically state they are compatible with DexCool or HOAT and they have been fine, but I wouldn't trust any other universal types.

 

Owners manual explains coolant

Haven't seen a warped housing

 

Thank you

 

I use ANY Asian coolant in my Kia's and Hyundai's. You can even match the color if you want.
Asian Green/Blue are available from many brands, like Napa, Supertech, Peak, Pentosin, RecochemOEM, ValvolineZerex......

If your Hyundai has some form of green/blue/aqua colored coolant, then use any of the Asian coolants from the above brands.

Regardless of the marketing from the aftermarket coolant, you will still service it, as required, in your owner's manual.

 

I found this at Auto Zone. It’s a 50/50 blend. Designed for Hyundai and several other Asian vehicles. It’s $21.49. The full concentrate you mix with “distilled” water is $24.49. For $3 extra? No brainer, for me.

 

Yes that one is Ethylene Glycol based, which is what virtually every Hyundai used up until the most recent ones that apparently have the new pink stuff.

Anyone who has green or yellow-looking coolant will likely be fine with that stuff ^^

And yeah, for $3 more you buy a gallon of distilled water for like $1 and get twice as much 50/50 when you mix them.

 

Depends on vehicle.

Some hybrids have special stuff for the battery loop. Don't confuse hybrid, hydrogen, or nuclear powered vehicle coolant with the gasser-only vehicles. Will assume gasser only unless otherwise stated since this is not the hybrid forum.

Just pop your hood and look at the coolant color.
HyundaiKia uses mostly green Asian coolant in their older vehicles. Newer ones have the pink Asian coolant(just like Toyota). It'll take a few years for the suppliers to print new bottle labels that include HyundaiKia with the ToyotaLexus pink/rink coolants.

I've used the OEMRechochem, Peak, Pentosin, Beckarnley, Aisin, ValvolineZerex, Napa, Supertech... "Asian" coolants in various colors and all worked great. Many within a brand were identical except for the dye color.

Prestone offers their all-makes-all-models coolant dyed various colors too. And, Kia is using 2-eha coolant in pink and green so that ends the anti-2eha argument compatibility issue. I don't use Prestone but have never had an issue installing it for clients, if that is what they bring.

 

I felt pretty dumb paying $35+ for a bottle of Toyota concentrate to top up my wife's Lexus coolant reservoir a few years ago. Excess of caution, I guess. I discovered soon enough that the auto parts stores sell an 'Asian' equivalent.

 

I have a case of old TOYOTA plain red sitting here, before they started adding "bitter" to it

 

Just for giggles, I have to do it --

Aluminum block, aluminum heads and radiator,, is that Hyundai, Ford family, Toyota, GM LS ?

NO DEXCOOL either

 

2eha is used in Dexcool. Kia uses 2eha in their green and pink coolant. 2eha is common to many of the "all makes all models" coolants. Guess the tech of 2eha has been used and adopted whether we like it or not. So, dye the dexcool green/pink and you have Kia and Prestone coolants. There are potasium-2eha, sodium-2eha, and combination of both potassium/sodium with 2-eha. I think the main issue is that many don't have a clue concerning coolant chemistry and fear what they don't understand or believe the bvllshitt published online or scarefeared into them from foolish mechanics, magazine articles, and radio talkshow mechanics.

The best coolant, like oil, ATF, brake fluid, is new coolant. If you think that its good for 10 years or 100k miles, think again. Chain it out more often. Don't cause issues with spent coolants, which is all too common.

 

2eha is used in Dexcool. Kia uses 2eha in their green and pink coolant. 2eha is common to many of the "all makes all models" coolants. Guess the tech of 2eha has been used and adopted whether we like it or not. So, dye the dexcool green/pink and you have Kia and Prestone coolants. There are potasium-2eha, sodium-2eha, and combination of both potassium/sodium with 2-eha. I think the main issue is that many don't have a clue concerning coolant chemistry and fear what they don't understand or believe the bvllshitt published online or scarefeared into them from foolish mechanics, magazine articles, and radio talkshow mechanics.

The best coolant, like oil, ATF, brake fluid, is new coolant. If you think that its good for 10 years or 100k miles, think again. Chain it out more often. Don't cause issues with spent coolants, which is all too common.

I’m kinda okay with changing my coolant at any time on/after 5 years/50k on the clock. Not trying to go off topic, but my biggest concern (defined as anxiety) will be the draining and replacement of the ATF in the transmission.

always prided myself on maintaining my vehicles. But I may bite the bullet and let the dealer do the tranny fluid change. No flush, just a change.

 

i just put in purple coolant that supercheap auto recommened but i didnt realise it already had some pink i it, will this cause problems and should i drain it?

 

Mixing Purple and pink coolants will not have any adverse effects. Mixing coolant types like old school green ethylene glycol and newer anti freeze compound coolants can cause a reaction where they coagulate into a semi-gel and clog everything.

 

Two hints that show it it is concentrate: Water is not the first ingredient listed. Look at other branded coolant. for premixed, water is the first inredient. for concentrate, water is not the first ingredient. second hint: Its got the chart inferring that the user will be diluting the concentrate

 

You guys are WAY off on this.
For anyone reading this, I do not suggest anyone use any coolant but the exact type that came in the car. This isn't like old cars where you could put most anything in.

"When adding coolant, use only deionized water, distilled water, or soft water for your vehicle and never mix hard water in the coolant filled at the factory."
"An incorrect coolant mixture may result in severe malfunction or engine damage.
The engine in your vehicle has aluminum engine parts and must be protected by a phosphate-based ethylene glycol coolant to prevent corrosion and freezing.
Do not use alcohol or methanol coolant or mix them with the specified coolant."