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HSH Energy calculations

8.5K views 45 replies 16 participants last post by  xxxxxxxxmondoe  
#1 ·
HSH Energy calculations

These are some rough calculations for the hybrid system based
upon information gathered on the internet and from the
Owner's Manual.

From the Manual:
Battery pack consists of 72 cells arranged in 9 modules of 8
cells each.
Battery pack voltage is 270V (nominal). This means all 72
cells are arranged in series since a single cell has a
nominal voltage of 3.75V.
Battery pack system weight is 42kg (92.4lbs).

From the internet:
netcarshow dot com slash hyundai/2011-sonata_hybrid
Battery pack capacity is 5.3Ah. Therefore 270V x 5.3Ah =
1.43kWh, which is how much energy the battery pack can store.
Drive motor produces 30kW, which is almost exactly 40HP.

I found a similar LiPo cell at bananahobby dot com for $21
each. The specs are:
Capacity: 5500mAh This equals 5.5Ah.
Max Charge Rate: 8C
Max Continuous Discharge Rate: 55C(302.5A)
Max Burst Discharge Rate: 80C(440A)
Weight is about 150g.
Volume is about 80cc.

Now we can do some calculations and see how close they come
to real life observations. First some assumptions:
Motor efficiency is 75%.
Inverter efficiency is 80%.
Power required to maintain 62mph on level roadway at standard
temp and pressure is 9kW. This is not quite a WAG and should
be fairly close to the actual.
Power required to operate all other vehicle systems at normal
conditions no more than 3kW.

First, for the motor to output the max power of 30kW or about
40HP, the battery will see a load of 50kW.
50kW * 80% = 40kw from the inverter to the motor.
40kW * 75% = 30kW mechanical power to the tranny.
For the battery pack to output 50kW will require an amperage
of 50kW =50,000W / 270V = 185A. Including the other vehicle
systems the amperage required would be 196A at max
conditions. This is well within the stated specs of the
above LiPo cell, especially since max conditions cannot be
maintained but for a short time due to battery capacity.

Second, for the motor to output 9kW or about 12HP, the
battery will see a load of 15kW. You can do the calculations
to see if that's accurate. Now we add in the other vehicle
systems load of 3kW to get a total of a 18kW load at the
battery pack. Remember this is about what we are estimating
is required to maintain 62mph. So the burning question is
how long can this EV mode be maintained. This is answered by
calculating how long a 1.43KWh capacity battery pack can
output 18kW. This is a simple calculation.
1.43kWh / 18kW = 0.08 hour or 3.3 minutes.

But it seems we have overlooked a critical item of
importance. The Hyundai engineers apparently decided to use
only about 20% of the total battery pack capacity under
normal use. Apparently they are limiting the system to use
only the third quintile, or from about 40% to 60% of total
battery capacity. This is done to lengthen battery life so
there will be few if any claims on the battery warranty.
So the actual available battery capacity is only 1.43kWh *
20% = 0.29kWh. Let's redo the EV mode endurance calculation.
0.29kWh / 18kW = 0.016 hour or 0.95 minutes or about 57
seconds.

How does this matchup with real world observations. Please
post your observed results. And if you have information that
is more accurate than that above we can redo the
calculations. Just for fun, you know.

Using the above data for weight and volume the battery cells
themselves would weigh 11.2kg (yes I know this is really a
mass unit) or 24.7lbs. The additional weight would be
electronics and packaging as well as the fan cooling
equipment. Any additional info here would be appreciated.

The total volume of the cells themselves would be about 6
liters or about 0.2 ft^3. But the cells are probably spread
out some for cooling purposes. So assume double that volume.
It would appear that there would be plenty of room in the
trunk to double battery pack capacity by installing another
72 cell unit in parallel. This would double or more than
double practical pack capacity since amperage requirements
would be cut in half, reducing degradation of the cells. Of
course, it has to be properly tied in to the system. Perhaps
in a few years when prices of cells come down and battery
packs start to need replacing it will be possible to increase
capacity at a reasonable price.

As an aside, at $21 each, 72 cells would cost $1512. I would
suspect that Hyundai would get a much better price than
internet retail. But quality and specs can also raise the
price. Still I doubt that Hyundai has more than $1000 cost
in the battery cells. Of course, you also need an integrated
9 module by eight cell microprocessor controlled voltage
balancing charger. Each of the nine chargers would
individually charge and monitor the eight cells in a module
and also balance the voltages. This is also done to lengthen
battery life. Then you need to monitor temp of the pack and
protect it from overloading when being discharged. All these
electronics add up along with assembly and testing. So we
just cannot know from here what Hyundai's cost really is.

However, I do know this from the Fitzmall dot com site:
HSH Premium Sonata Limited w/nav
MSRP $32,435 $29,600
Invoice $30,662 $27,783
selling $29,507 $26,838

Taking the difference between the invoice prices:
$30,662
- $27,783
diff $2,879

This $2,879 must cover the cost of the battery pack,
inverter, HSG, added cost of the electric air compressor and
all other hybrid specific additions, as well as the R&D
required to bring it all to market. I don't know if they are
breaking even on all this. They probably see it as a good
policy to penetrate this market which is new to them, even if
they don't break even on the hybrid upgrade. If this is true
a potential buyer would be well advised to buy a HSH now
before they get established in the market and raise the price
so they can earn a profit on the hybrid specific upgrade.
Please post any info you may have that would refine these calculations.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Yeah, I think it's been estimated that if you buy the individual parts for a new car and assemble it yourself it will only be about 10 times MSRP. :eek:

The only sales I can see anyone making now would be to third party manufacturers who want to reverse engineer it. In a few years when the warranty runs out I hope there are other choices and that the price has come down to a reasonable level.

The manual states the battery pack consists of 9 modules of 8 cells each. I wonder if it's possible to replace only one module if a cell goes bad, and then rework that module to replace that bad cell so you would have a spare.

The downside is the 270V and possible 300+ amps if you make a mistake. It would be a brief learning experience.
 
#7 ·
I would agree, the word here on the forums is very little of the battery gets used, hurting MPG. I will probably buy a HSH this spring when its not so cold up here in Canada but am concerned about the battery usage. It stinks to see on the display it switching out of EV mode during slow city traffic when the battery bar still reads like 40%.
 
#9 · (Edited)
But if you could capture more of the energy resulting from regenerative braking that would have to help some. I do my best to use long slow braking to recharge as much as possible, but more should be possible if the battery could be recharged higher.
As an FYI, I've noticed several times I'll be stopped in EV mode and as soon as I turn the fan on my ICE kicks on.
 
#10 ·
Years of development fueled by hundreds of brilliant engineers. Millions of miles testing different configurations and algorithms to develop the most efficient combination of components to work in various envirnoments and situations. And no one ever thought to try a bigger battery?

Really? Come on guys.

To be honest back when I was a newbie I think I wanted a bigger battery in one of my first posts as well. Took me about 10K miles to really understand the car and why it does the things it does. I was always trying to make the car do things it didn't want to do. Thought I was smarter than the car and way smarter than all those stupid engineers.
 
#14 ·
Years of development fueled by hundreds of brilliant engineers. Millions of miles testing different configurations and algorithms to develop the most efficient combination of components to work in various envirnoments and situations. And no one ever thought to try a bigger battery?

Really? Come on guys.
Its a cost thing. The HSH was engineer to get better fuel economy. Its a Sonata as a hybrid version, similar to a Camry in a hybrid version.

The Prius was designed for maximum MPG and that's what it does. Uses the maximum usable percentage of the battery. Doesn't cycle the ICE on unless it has to for more throttle. There is even a display to that effect. In a Prius you're pretty much guaranteed the ICE won't come on if your throttle is on the left side of the ECO display and there is at least two battery bars. In the HSH it seems less systematic and predictable when the ICE is going to kick on.

Either way I will still probably buy one because of its superior looks, but none the less it not as efficient or predictable when it comes to EV mode.
 
#12 ·
No matter how smart the engineers, they are constrained by economics. There is a target selling price they have to meet no matter what else. So even if a bigger battery improves economy there would be a trade-off.

On the other hand you would need a much bigger battery to make a plug-in feasible. And, it might need to be NiMH so it could be completely charged and discharged. Once that plug-in battery was discharged it would be a dead weight.
 
#16 ·
What I would like to see implemented in software would be an EV only mode. This would use only the battery until it reached the "do not go below this level" mark, and then use the ICE. Then you could push the pedal firmly to get the desired electric acceleration (within the limits of the system) until the battery's limits were reached. This might result in a higher attained speed before starting the ICE, which should improve economy. As it is, I can't get it up over 25 or 30 without the ICE starting. With an ICE lockout perhaps it could get up to 40 or 50 before using the gas engine, without having to baby the pedal. In fact, in could be added to the Blue Drive button on the steering wheel so there were 3 modes: Blue Drive, Blue Drive with ICE lockout, and Blue Drive off. This would still be simple to operate. They could even make it an option in the setup menu.
 
#26 ·
OK, I don't want to sound like I'm nitpicking, but I don't know what a kW/H would be. The kWh is a unit of work or energy. The SI unit of work is the Joule. Power is the rate of doing work and is the Watt. One watt equals one joule per second or j/s. A kW is 1000 watts of course. So a kW equals 1000j/s. If we multiply the kW by time, ie., an hour, we get the kWh, or kjh/s. The unit time in the numerator and denominator cancel out and we are back to work or energy. A kWh is the energy required to produce a kW of power for one hour. It is also equal to 3,600,000 joules, since there are 3600 seconds in an hour. Also 3.6x10^6 or 3.6e6.

The British unit of work is the BTU or British Thermal Unit. It is the energy required to heat one pound of water by one degree F. It also equals 1055 joules.

There are about 132,000,000 joules in a gallon of gas. So a gallon of gas equals: (1.32e8)/(3.6e6) = 36.7 kWh.

Why go through this? Well, if 0.3 kWh will maintain 60mph for a mile, then a gallon of gas should maintain 60mph for: 36.7/0.3 = 122.3 miles. You should get 122mpg. But gas engines are not very efficient. Probably no more than 20% efficient at their peak. Their efficiency - power output curve is also nonlinear, so there is only a narrow operating band where you can expect even 20% efficiency. This is why is makes sense to charge the battery and run EV mode in cycles. The ICE apparently doesn't reach peak efficiency at an output of 15HP, which is where you cruise. So increase the output to increase the efficiency and use the surplus to charge the battery. Then shut it down for a minute or so and go electric drive.

Having longer cycles should increase efficiency some since it takes energy to start the ICE, both electric and gas.

I'm not trying to be pedantic. If more of the battery can be used it should increase efficiency. With more real world experience it might be proven that using 30% or 40% of the battery doesn't decrease battery life. That might translate into several more mpg.
 
#28 ·
Thanks for the compliment, but you have just about seen the limits of my technical expertise.

No matter how dedicated the engineers, the corp bean-counters are going to rule. But still I'm hoping that real world experience will show that using more of the battery won't cost Hyundai. That's the only way it will happen.

Imagine being able to accelerate up to 40 or 50mph on a regular basis in EV mode. As someone stated in the mpg thread, acceleration is were gas mileage is really lowered. With more battery capacity on tap, we might see 40/city, 45/highway with just a software update.

The other factor that may affect the equation is the price of gas, and the price of the electronics and batteries. As gas rises and hopefully the battery system cost drops, it will become efficient to "use up" the batteries rather than increasingly expensive and scarce oil.

The battery pack consists of 9 modules of 8 cells each. Unless everything is "potted" together it should be possible to replace a module which has a bad cell and maybe even rework that module. It would be helpful if the software kept a record of the depth and number of charge/recharge cycles so estimates could be made of the remaining battery life, and an informed decision made about reworking of replacing modules or the entire battery pack.

Anyway, in five years or so when the battery warranty starts to expire for some people due to high mileage, hopefully there will be third party replacements/exchanges and maybe even upgrades available at a reasonable cost.
 
#30 ·
All the gas/electric hybrids have a HVB of about 1.5 Kwh. All of them including the Prius use a similar small range of charge/discharge, no matter what the gauges say. The size is enough to absorb at least one high speed braking or Eastern US downhill run. That makes it big enough for everything else. It shouldn't be bigger in a non-plug-in.
 
#33 ·
#34 · (Edited)
Read with interest all comments. the battery pack weighing 98 pounds would be about the same weight as a spare tire. I inquired to the spare tire crowd, if any gas mileage decreases were seen when adding the spare tire...(or a kid in the back seat).. The answer was no.
Given my degree and 47 years experience in Ham radio and we use a lot of batteries in emergency communications, adding a second battery pack would do basically 1 thing..

NOTHING...

as the program to charge would take twice as long, as the current into the battery would remain the same, so charge cycle time would double, and discharge time would double as the battery load remains the same. We would cycle half the times, twice the given given period.

Now if we could tweak the charge current, then we would have something. and only then...If we could charge at a greater rate and discharge at the same rate as a single cell we would increase our EV mode then. Higher charging currents would place a greater load on the ICE. That would be the magic unknown to find out. then determine if it makes the 2nd pack worth installing. how much extra gas is needed to charge faster so we can discharge longer and use ZERO gas during that longer EV mode...

Personally I'd like to leave my driveway each morning with the battery topped off. and have a charge in option for at work, home such..

I am willing to bet, that the charge circuitry of the "generator" is such that in ICE the charge current is not "balls to the wall" at all times. If that is so, then it's possible adding a second battery pack could "confuse" the electronics to leave the "generator" in the "balls to the wall" mode more during ICE. The discharge rate.. 1-2-3-4 battery packs is always the same. Who is going to be first to try a second pack?
 
#35 · (Edited)
Supposedly that is what Ford is coming out with this summer in their Fusion Hybrid!! For the first 80 miles it will act like the Nissan Leaf if ya keep it charged from household AC you'll never use a drop of gas. But, if you deplete the batteries, it then turns into a Prius/HSH and uses the ICE/Electric motor combo till the 80 mile batteries are re-charged !!

Be REAL curious to see how they rate the MPG's on that one !!
 
#36 ·
Please show the link where you got this info

But, if you deplete the batteries, it then turns into a Prius/HSH and uses the ICE/Electric motor combo till the 80 mile batteries are re-charged !!

I thought it was like the Volt where the ICE won't charge the battery.
 
#39 ·
I'm still not sure on that. From everything I read the ICE powers the generator to charge the batteries and give power to the electric motor.

The 80 mile Fusion might be the next plugin version... which sounds like it will be like the Volt and use the gas motor to extend the range
 
#41 ·
Eric where did you get that info?

This is straight off the Chevy Volt Site

Volt is unique among electric vehicles because you have two sources of energy. You have an electric source–a battery–that allows you to drive gas–free for an EPA–estimated 35 miles. And there's also an onboard gas generator that produces electricity so you can go up to a total of 375 miles on a full tank of gas.
That gas is what the ICE uses to power the car. The battery is only charged by plugging it in to electricity.

2012 Chevy Volt | Electric Car | Chevrolet
 
#44 ·
Actually, you're both kind of wrong. Read the following:

Chevy Volt's engine more than just a generator | The Car Tech blog - CNET Reviews

The Volt's ICE is connected via a planetary gearset directly to the wheels. That means that under certain circumstances, the engine is driving the wheels directly, not via the electric motors. In other words, the Volt is a hybrid vehicle, not a pure electric with a generator on board.