Disclaimer - This method worked for me. Your vehicle may be different than mine or you could run into other problems I didn’t experience. This post is only for informative purposes. Don’t blame me if you try this and damage something. If you have any comments or questions about what I did, feel free to post them.
Diagnosis
The check engine light has been illuminating intermittently on my 2007 Sonata GLS. The car is also difficult to start sometime, requiring more cranking than usual for the engine to fire. I’ve checked it multiple times and the only code is P0011 for “timing over-advanced or system performance (Bank 1).” Researching this, I found the likely culprit was the Oil Control Valve (OCV). I decided to replace it on my car. I bought the part today and installed it.
The factory service manual has additional diagnostic procedures to determine if the OCV is bad.
What You’ll Need
I used the following tools:
3/8" drive ratchet
19mm deep socket
Extension
Pliers
Torx T30 bit
Torque wrench for properly tightening bolts. This is optional, but I highly recommend properly torquing all bolts.
![Image]()
You’ll also need a new OCV. The MSRP is $53. My local dealer had one in stock. The part number is 243552G000.
![Image]()
This is a revised part. It is slightly different than the original. the new OCV is on top.
![Image]()
Location and removal
Here is where you’ll find the OCV. NOTE - I have removed my engine cover, as I feel it serves no purpose. If your car still has the cover, you may need to remove it.
![Image]()
This is what the general area looks like. The first step is removing a hose that's in the way. Loosen the two clamps holding it in place. I’ve marked the clamps with the red arrows. I used a pair of pliers to loosen them.
![Image]()
![Image]()
Then, remove the terminals connecting the wires to the sensors. The top terminal has a small button that you push down while pulling the connector off. You can’t see it in this pic, but there is a small wire clip on the lower connector that you need to pry off with a slotted screwdriver.
![Image]()
The OCV is held in place with one T30 torx bolt. On my vehicle, the oil temperature sensor was blocking me from accessing the bolt. I had to remove the oil temp sensor, which required using a deep 19mm socket and the extension. Next is removing the OCV bolt. The easiest way to get at the bolt is with a 6” or longer extension.
![Image]()
The bolt turned out to be difficult to remove on my Sonata. It wouldn’t budge and I could feel that it was starting to strip. Stripping out the bolt would be very, very bad, as its location would make it very difficult to drill out. I sprayed it with penetrating oil, which didn’t seem to help very much. I then gave the bolt a few taps with a hammer to loosen up any corrosion holding it in place. I seated the bit in the bolt and gave the extension a few strong taps with a hammer. That seemed to do the trick and the bolt came out. You can then pull out the old OCV.
![Image]()
The bolt was obviously damaged. I wanted to replace it. It is a M6 x 1.0 metric bolt. My local hardware story didn’t have any Torx bolts, so I replaced it with a flanged hex bolt. In the second pic you can see the corrosion on the threads of the old bolt.
![Image]()
![Image]()
Reassembly
Torque Specs (taken from my factory service manual):
Oil Control Valve bolt 7.23 - 8.67 ft. lbs
Oil temperatur sensor 14.46 - 17.35 ft. lbs
Reassembly is the reverse of removal. Install the new OCV and torque the bolt. I used a little anti-seize, so removing the bolt would be easier in the future. Replace the oil temperature sensor and reconnect all wires. Then reinstall the hose. Double check everything, start the car and check for any oil leaks around the oil temperature sensor. You’re done.
Diagnosis
The check engine light has been illuminating intermittently on my 2007 Sonata GLS. The car is also difficult to start sometime, requiring more cranking than usual for the engine to fire. I’ve checked it multiple times and the only code is P0011 for “timing over-advanced or system performance (Bank 1).” Researching this, I found the likely culprit was the Oil Control Valve (OCV). I decided to replace it on my car. I bought the part today and installed it.
The factory service manual has additional diagnostic procedures to determine if the OCV is bad.
What You’ll Need
I used the following tools:
3/8" drive ratchet
19mm deep socket
Extension
Pliers
Torx T30 bit
Torque wrench for properly tightening bolts. This is optional, but I highly recommend properly torquing all bolts.
You’ll also need a new OCV. The MSRP is $53. My local dealer had one in stock. The part number is 243552G000.
This is a revised part. It is slightly different than the original. the new OCV is on top.
Location and removal
Here is where you’ll find the OCV. NOTE - I have removed my engine cover, as I feel it serves no purpose. If your car still has the cover, you may need to remove it.
This is what the general area looks like. The first step is removing a hose that's in the way. Loosen the two clamps holding it in place. I’ve marked the clamps with the red arrows. I used a pair of pliers to loosen them.
Then, remove the terminals connecting the wires to the sensors. The top terminal has a small button that you push down while pulling the connector off. You can’t see it in this pic, but there is a small wire clip on the lower connector that you need to pry off with a slotted screwdriver.
The OCV is held in place with one T30 torx bolt. On my vehicle, the oil temperature sensor was blocking me from accessing the bolt. I had to remove the oil temp sensor, which required using a deep 19mm socket and the extension. Next is removing the OCV bolt. The easiest way to get at the bolt is with a 6” or longer extension.
The bolt turned out to be difficult to remove on my Sonata. It wouldn’t budge and I could feel that it was starting to strip. Stripping out the bolt would be very, very bad, as its location would make it very difficult to drill out. I sprayed it with penetrating oil, which didn’t seem to help very much. I then gave the bolt a few taps with a hammer to loosen up any corrosion holding it in place. I seated the bit in the bolt and gave the extension a few strong taps with a hammer. That seemed to do the trick and the bolt came out. You can then pull out the old OCV.
The bolt was obviously damaged. I wanted to replace it. It is a M6 x 1.0 metric bolt. My local hardware story didn’t have any Torx bolts, so I replaced it with a flanged hex bolt. In the second pic you can see the corrosion on the threads of the old bolt.
Reassembly
Torque Specs (taken from my factory service manual):
Oil Control Valve bolt 7.23 - 8.67 ft. lbs
Oil temperatur sensor 14.46 - 17.35 ft. lbs
Reassembly is the reverse of removal. Install the new OCV and torque the bolt. I used a little anti-seize, so removing the bolt would be easier in the future. Replace the oil temperature sensor and reconnect all wires. Then reinstall the hose. Double check everything, start the car and check for any oil leaks around the oil temperature sensor. You’re done.
