I try 4.5 and see how that looks. It's probably going to be 4.86, so just pour the whole 5 in if it is.

 

QUOTE (jsinton @ Jun 21 2010, 10:44 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=335108

I try 4.5 and see how that looks. It's probably going to be 4.86, so just pour the whole 5 in if it is.

I'm with brother jsinton...

I pour approx 4.5 in, start it for 15 - 20 seconds, shut off, walk slowly the long way around car, check oil level, and fill it to the full mark, all done :banana: ... total oil fill too will depend on how long you left the drain plug out to drip.. :thumbsup:

 

I just did my 1k mile oil & Filter change this weekend. I put in 4.5 US Quarts and it was a the "low dot or add oil mark" on the dip stick. I put almost all of the remaining oil from the open quart and it brought it to the full mark on the dot. So 4.86 us Quarts sounds correct.

PS, I switched over to 5w20 Mobile 1 synthetic oil.

 

Doesn't your owners manual tell you the oil capacity?

 

QUOTE (Joeeey @ Jun 22 2010, 06:20 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=335152

I just did my 1k mile oil & Filter change this weekend. I put in 4.5 US Quarts and it was a the "low dot or add oil mark" on the dip stick. I put almost all of the remaining oil from the open quart and it brought it to the full mark on the dot. So 4.86 us Quarts sounds correct.

PS, I switched over to 5w20 Mobile 1 synthetic oil.

I do like Mobil One, but Isn't that a bit light for summer driving?
I would think a 5-30W, 5-40W, or 10-30W, 10-40W, Would offer better protection in the heat.

 

QUOTE (MikDee @ Jun 22 2010, 06:07 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=335339

I do like Mobil One, but Isn't that a bit light for summer driving?
I would think a 5-30W, 5-40W, or 10-30W, 10-40W, Would offer better protection in the heat.

I was thinking the same thing then I read the owners manual and the owners manual states:

For better fuel economy, it is recommended to use the engine oil of a viscosity grade SAE 5W-
20 (API SM / ILSAC GF-4). However, if the engine oil is not available in your country, select
the proper engine oil using the engine oil viscosity chart.

 

I am getting ready to do a first change on the CEO's Tuck...
will probably use Mobil One 5W-30, as Mobil One is a bit
on the thin side even at the 30 viscosity, per some oil board
mavens' opins, and I don't care about a half mpg with the 20...

But, what is anyone using for oil filter, w/out a 40 min trip
to the dlr? My local AutoZone has zip info in its cross ref
guide for filters on a 2010 Tuck, as does the net car parts
resources I usually use.
Thanks, mD

 

I'm using a Napa Gold, well known to be one of the best filters out there. #1334MP
Cheers

 

QUOTE (motordavid @ Jun 22 2010, 10:16 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=335409

.

But, what is anyone using for oil filter,

I used a Napa Gold filter. It is the same number as my wife 07 Elantra motor.

 

QUOTE (Joeeey @ Jun 22 2010, 06:47 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=335344

I was thinking the same thing then I read the owners manual and the owners manual states:

For better fuel economy, it is recommended to use the engine oil of a viscosity grade SAE 5W-
20 (API SM / ILSAC GF-4). However, if the engine oil is not available in your country, select
the proper engine oil using the engine oil viscosity chart.

I went to Autozone and picked up a Mobil 1 oil filter for mine.... it was in the book, it's a M1-104, I plan on installing it after the car hits 600mile... (I will feel better when the sync oil is in there... lol)

 

QUOTE (Joeeey @ Jun 23 2010, 03:38 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=335610

I used a Napa Gold filter. It is the same number as my wife 07 Elantra motor.

Thanks...I will give that a hunt; we have a few auto parts joints here in
our hillbillyheaven town, but the NAPA store may the worst of the bunch.

If you changed it your self, any surprises while reaching up and in, to remove
current filter? My other two cars both present a serious effort and a full
half hour plus, for DIY oil/filter changes.
Thank you, mD

 

QUOTE (motordavid @ Jun 23 2010, 05:20 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=335638

Thanks...I will give that a hunt; we have a few auto parts joints here in
our hillbillyheaven town, but the NAPA store may the worst of the bunch.

If you changed it your self, any surprises while reaching up and in, to remove
current filter? My other two cars both present a serious effort and a full
half hour plus, for DIY oil/filter changes.
Thank you, mD

Naa it's pretty straight forward. in the center near the front of the engine there is a twist to remove door. This is to rear the filter. I think the whole oil change took 5 - 10 minutes tops. It took longer to wash my hands & put my tools away after I was finished.

 

QUOTE (Joeeey @ Jun 23 2010, 06:18 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=335653

Naa it's pretty straight forward. in the center near the front of the engine there is a twist to remove door. This is to rear the filter. I think the whole oil change took 5 - 10 minutes tops. It took longer to wash my hands & put my tools away after I was finished.

Thanks Joey...
I slid under, (tight fit, lol!), and gave it a glance before I asked. As I suspected, and I appreciate your eyeball on it,
and your experience. Should be cake.
Best Regards, mD

 

QUOTE (kendawg @ Jun 23 2010, 05:00 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=335634

I went to Autozone and picked up a Mobil 1 oil filter for mine.... it was in the book, it's a M1-104, I plan on installing it after the car hits 600mile... (I will feel better when the sync oil is in there... lol)

Thanks for that headsup on the Mobil1 filter; I will give it a hunt at my local AZ.
Best Regards, mD

 

Factory spec oil is NOT synthetic, correct? What's the factory suggested oil change intervals or does the car have some lights to track it?

 

QUOTE (Andreas van dem Helge @ Jul 6 2010, 02:07 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=339152

Factory spec oil is NOT synthetic, correct? What's the factory suggested oil change intervals or does the car have some lights to track it?

I can't find any info anywhere that states what the oil fill, brand or species is...
The Manual suggests changes at 7500, 15000, miles etc. No lights or settings to track that I can find.

I just dumped my oil & filter at ~3,000 miles. Thanks to kendawg & Joeeey, the Mobil One M1-104 filter went on easily,
the drain was cake, (esp compared to the 8 qts that gushes out of my X5), and I put in a touch under 5 qts of Mobil
One 5W-30.

I am not a "change your oil every 3k mile" zealot, but I do like to do an initial short change...after that, 7,500 to 10,000
easy, with the good syn stuff, imo.
GL, mD

 

Well, I have the best of both worlds. The '10 Tucson takes about 4.75qts, the '10 Elantra Touring takes about 4.25qts. Buy two five gallon jugs of Castrol GTX 10W30 and have a quart left for the lawnmower!

And I buy Hyundai filters at the dealer, several at one time. The Tucson oil change is easy, so is the Touring. And we have an oil reclaim center less than a mile from the house, so all is good.

 

hi guys, my 2012 Tuc with less 6,500 KMs. The oil is very dirty. I was concerned, didn't expect a relatively new car to behave like this. Found engine oil on sale, so bought Castrol Edge Titanium 5w30 Full Synt and K&N oil filter. After the oil change, i noticed fuel consumption increased. It used to register low 10.xx Litre/100KM. Now, it's constantly around low 11.xx Litre/100KM. This is about 10% increase in fuel consumption.

Have i picked a poor quality oil? It's unlikely the oil filter isn't it?

Also there is small drop of oil hanging near the drain plug and few drops on the garage floor. Should i tighten the drain plug further? I'm worried about breaking things because of over tightening. Is there a rubber ring / washer i can get to help prevent this drip/leak?

Thanks in advance

 

My advice is to buy a torque wrench. I do my drain plug to 30lb ft of torque. I think that's a normal spec for most vehicles. If you have a metal crush washer around your drain plug it should be replaced with each oil change.

Also Edge is good oil, the fuel consumption change is more likely due to weather and fuel blend changes.

 

Why are you guys using 5w30?
The oil cap says 5w20....

 

Thanks for your feedback someguy. The drip wasn't severe. So i just tighten the drain plug a little bit more. See how it goes this time. Yesterday, I managed to bring the fuel consumption down to 10.6L/100KM. Not sure how, previous few tanks of fuel, i was struggling to reach 11.0 . Does weather has anything to do with it? It's the beginning of summer now.

@604alpha, i only go for the 5w30 because it was the best option available on SALE that weekend. Next time i'll try Mobil 1 5w20 see if it makes any difference

 

I think you're supposed to only use the genuine Hyundai oil filter to preserve your warrantee?

After reading reviews on the o.e. filter, It's better then most aftermarket ones. Including the top named, top rated filters.

The problem is finding, & keeping a supply of them at home.

 

Yes, you are "supposed" to use the Hyundai oil filter to preserve your warranty, but you don't have to. The dealership would be real dicks if they voided your warranty because you didn't use a Hyundai oil filter.

Yes, the OEM filter is amongst one of the best.

Your dealership should have a stock pile of them since the engines in the Tucson are so common across the entire vehicle line up.

 

Non-oe will not void Hyundai's high hurdle warranty.
I would be curious to read some/any links that ref the 'high quality' of the oe filters, as someone is probably making them for H.

Does anyone use the 'e oil' lol! There are no refs for what brand it is and even if it is full syn and what group of synthetic. Don't drink the kool aid.

 

^+1 would also like to see these OE filter high ratings.

My manual doesn't say anything about eoil but recommends Quaker State. I wonder what they paid for that?

 

I never leave the drain plug out for that long. I blew a lawnmower engine by being too enthusiastic about draining every last drop of oil, and then went right out to mow agaain once I put oil back in. These days I'll make sure to work oil through the engine first (with the plug out) before using it again. So my thought is I don't want to do the same thing with a car engine.