Never happened to me. Maybe you can jack up the car and try to reach up to release the catch???

Good Luck

 

Never happened to me. Maybe you can jack up the car and try to reach up to release the catch???

Good Luck

Opening Hood with Broken Release Cable - YouTube
Maybe that will help. Listening to Doloris sing helped me!

Thanks!

Did not try jacking the car yet as I wonder if I can even see the latch from below. I know fronting the condenser coil it is totally blocked.

Tried the video trick but going completely blind, no luck.

 

Maybe that will help. Listening to Doloris sing helped me!

 

Hey, I had the same issue and ended up dismantling the lever, which revealed the cable. You do not have to worry about the cable repelling back once you remove the lever (I know I was), it will stay put.
I never ended up successfully reassembling the lever to the cable to make it work. Instead the cable sticks out about an inch or two where the lever once was, and hasn't bothered me none.

I'll be able to take pics of what the cable will look like if needed but won't be able to post until tomorrow evening, right now it's dark and a thunderstorm going on.

 

I guess I could do that once the hood is open but I can't open the hood. Tried to dislodge it from the front with no luck and the bottom it is not visible.
How did you manage to open the hood. That's my big problem right now.

 

I am really surprised the dealer told you that. Did they at least offer any help or support?

 

I drove it in this morning and they tried to pop it with no luck. According to them they never had this happen before, to this car. My car is also nearing the 4yr mark. Basically was told it most likely will not be a warranty issue and prepared me for that.

I am also hoping besides the dealer route, to figure this out. If anything, I'd like to test my options and share my results once solved.

 

5yr/60 warranty.. let the dealer repair it

 

How many miles ?

5yr/60,, it their problem..

 

I figure I could get them to make it a warranty but looking for an option how to pop the hood. I know one day the warranty will run out and would like to know, and now's a perfect time.

I figure it should not be that much difficult as long as you know what to do.

 

Curtis, that makes me want to go out and take a hard look at the latch mechanism and how it is configured.

I wonder what type (gauge) of wire he was using? Certainly not clothes hanger quality. At least I don't think it is. Also wondering if that is a specialty tool available at some auto parts specialty store because it's the first time I've seen anything like it?

You know, this is terrifying enough to make you consider a "shade tree engineering design" as a secondary back-up latch release. Maybe a stainless cable attached around the latch, left dangling off to the side at an angle. You could reach underneath, give it a yank, and "pop." Anyway, it's got me thinking.

I'm on sbr711's side: under 5 years/60K, dealer fixes for free.

 

That makes me want to go out and take a hard look at the latch mechanism and how it is configured.

I wonder what type (gauge) of wire he was using? Certainly not clothes hanger quality. At least I don't think it is. Also wondering if that is a specialty tool available at some auto parts specialty store because it's the first time I've seen anything like that?

For me, I used a stainless bar from believe it or not, a towel rack. Just have no idea how to approach it without knowing the best route.

 

If I remember correctly I ended up having to get behind the panel circled in red to remove the lever, and inside the lever will be a cable hooked on to it. The cable in my car is just currently hanging right now as you can see in the picture, pull the silver cord and the hood pops open. Hope this helps, excuse the mud parking lot is under construction.

 

If I remember correctly I ended up having to get behind the panel circled in red to remove the lever, and inside the lever will be a cable hooked on to it. The cable in my car is just currently hanging right now as you can see in the picture, pull the silver cord and the hood pops open. Hope this helps, excuse the mud parking lot is under construction.

I see yours broke at the lever, mines I believe is at the latch. Pulling on the lever you can hear a noise at the latch. I have a feeling the either the cable or ball has popped out of position.

 

Ball out of the clip is a good guess. Somewhat related: my dad was inserting a small screwdriver into his gas cap cover to push back the spring-loaded latch because the floor mounted release lever no longer worked.

I opened the trunk, pulled off the inside carpet paneling and got my hand inside just enough where I could feel what had happened. Good thing I could gain access with my fingers because you danged sure couldn't see it. Once I managed to get it clipped back on, it worked like it was originally designed. I'm hoping it is still working when I get back out there next week. What a nuisance that was.

But a hood latch? That's a whole different enchilada, altogether. Probably a result of too much polishing and detailing under the hood, son. :wink2:

I'm watching with eager anticipation for this fix. :lurk:

 

Man, I just went out and looked at mine - it's crazy hard to get to any of the latch mechanism with the hood closed! If someone was the size of a Barbie doll they could get up behind it from behind the radiator/shroud area but otherwise I'm not sure how you'd approach it from below.

Thing is the dealer/OEM should have a way of solving this, I can't believe there's never been a situation where a hood latch cable didn't disconnect or break at the latch end, and I can't imagine them cutting the hood off.

 

...and I can't imagine them cutting the hood off.

I not only can't imagine them cutting the hood, I don't even want to think of that scenario. That's like taking your family pet in for heart surgery.

 

Just went out and looked at Ingrid's, Don. Correct me if I missed something:

Look at the long release lever that is under the hood that you have to depress to get the secondary safety to release the full amount to continue lifting the hood. It's pretty long. There's a gap below it leading down in front of the radiator behind the grill. If you look at the upper right opening of the "H" badge, it's possible that a level with a 90 degree bend could be inserted into the opening and then pushed with a bit of effort "up against that handle release." Something skin to the old brake adjustment tools, but with a 90 degree bend instead of the 45 degree that the brake tool has.

I may be missing something, here. But, it looked possible. If I had a piece of steel about 3/8ths to 1/2" wide and about 8 -12inches long, with good tensile strength, it might be doable. I don't know.

Correction: Not THRU the hole, insert it at the top of the right tip of the "H." Insert, push up. Like a "fulcrum" maneuver using the badge as the pivot point for leverage. Think "see-saw" on the school ground play yard. I just went out and looked at it again.

 

Hmm, the real test would be actually 'doing it.' I'll have to look at mine again, I know where the secondary release lever is but didn't actually notice anything around it that gave access to the primary (and most important) release. If that's indeed the case then the service department should actually have a tool like that (and you would think they would be aware of it - unless there's like just one sr. tech who is keeper of the hood release tool and only s/he knows its secrets).

 

And, Don, it may NOT be able to get past the primary release. I just don't know. But I sure feel for Curtis having to deal with this. Maybe he could go in to a different dealer for an oil change and then raise all kinds of heck when they come in to tell him the release lever wouldn't work. He could say, "What did you do to it? It worked last week when I checked the levels."

I know, I know, not honest. But some people I know are capable of doing this. Like my neighbor down the street that claimed she was in her car when the Moore tornado picked it up and slung her from it and the car through the air. She didn't know what happened to the car. Someone posted her driving it on You Tube a few days later. Made the local news. Busted!!!! Takes all kinds.

 

That made me laugh! I don't think I could keep a straight face if I tried something like that!

But you're right, I feel really bad for him too, hopefully there's nothing imperative that he needs to get under the hood for right now. And I really hope your idea works, that's at least something to start with and have minimal damage of any kind to the car.

 

Thanks Don and Rich.
I needed someone to look at it good and now it seems it is an issue that's very troubling.
Yes, still no luck. Jacked up the car didn't work, no access. Unless there's a big trick, this is a serious design flaw. I've been at it for several hours and just totally wasted my day off.
Very mad and frustrated!

 

Fixed!

The problem was a tiny rock not more than 3/16" was lodged in the latch mechanism. As I was probing at the latch, at times I could hear a rattle. I figured that cable was busted and that's what I was hearing.

After several different attempts I figured to try something else, that would surely break the cable. From under behind the foglights, I grabbed the cable, which was already loose and not pinched, and tugged it pretty hard, back and forth. After about a dozen or so attempts up pops the hood!

Exploring what happened there, I saw a tiny object sitting in the latch. Removing it thinking I busted something for sure, the object was a pebble. I guess somehow it managed to fly up in there, pretty hard to do and found a home. To add, there was no other rocks or pebble to be found anywhere.

Another thing that's odd is I just got finished the High Beam mod so the hood was opened repeatedly with no issues. Only until this morning.

Thanks to all for the help.

 

I just got back from looking at this, trying to figure out how to release the latch externally. Sorry Rich, could not find any way to use that slot by the secondary release lever to get to the primary release.

What might work, and might test the patience of a saint is trying to maneuver a 1/4" socket and extension and a swivel into the empty area above the H symbol (where you reach in to pull the secondary release lever. There's two bolts and two nuts in there that basically secure the hood latch mechanism to the radiator subframe panel (one nut, one bolt on each side of the latch). If you are able to actually work in that little space (maybe with a second person holding a flashlight) and you have a 10mm deep socket (the two nuts are on bolts that protrude too deep for a normal depth socket) you may be able to actually release the latch completely from the subframe, and thus open the hood. But I can guarantee it will be a PITA - I almost think you need a couple of 1/4" extensions plus that 1/4" universal joint to make this work.

Edit: Oh lol, disregard this then, although it might be of use for the next unfortunate that this happens to (but hopefully never!).

 

That idea popped in my head. As you can now see I luckily got it opened. That idea though is a last resort I was nearing to do.

Now that it's opened, for now, rest is good. After this though, I will be looking into installing a backup release lever.

 

Incredible course of events, Curtis. A pebble! Of all the....

Glad you got to the root of the problem. Sure makes you think though, doesn't it?

 

Incredible course of events, Curtis. A pebble! Of all the....

Glad you got to the root of the problem. Sure makes you think though, doesn't it?

Darn right! Just when I thought I lost it, mentally

I have a rock in my tool box drawer with rust spots on it.. car got a control arm as advisor afraid to tell customer it wasnt warranty for a rock stuck between frame and tub..

Act of God?

Craziest thing that pebble. Glad you got to the bottom of it.

I should've kept it but it's somewhere in the driveway. Hopefully to be never seen again.

Yes thanks for sharing, one day this will happen again to somebody else.

I hate to say it, but it will, I mean it has to, I can't be the only one, can I?

 

I have a rock in my tool box drawer with rust spots on it.. car got a control arm as advisor afraid to tell customer it wasnt warranty for a rock stuck between frame and tub..

 

Craziest thing that pebble. Glad you got to the bottom of it.

 

Yes thanks for sharing, one day this will happen again to somebody else.

 

I have this same problem that the hood won't open. Inside the vehicle I removed the panel where the remote handle is and the cable moves freely, very easy. I assume that either the cable broke or the end that goes on the hood latch came off. Unfortunately I was doing an oil change with it on ramps, and oil is drained, and now cannot put oil back in or move the car. Desperately wondering if anyone has any more suggestions on getting the hood open on this 2013 Elantra GLS.

thanks

 

Went to pull on the hood latch lever and nothing happened. It almost appears that the cable/ball has either popped or broken off the latch. While pulling on the lever you can hear a sliding noise at the latch.

I removed the bottom panel under the bumper but no help there as the latch is covered and not accessed from that location. There is a slight gap from the front under the hood and above the logo but no idea how to get around to this.

Hoping someone did this before and has an idea on how to at least open the hood from the outside. Remember, the cable won't release.

Just spoke to the dealer and was told it most likely is not a warranty issue.

Remove the left front Tire and Wheelwell can reach it easily.

 

It took me a few minutes, but I have come up with a way to open the hood release. You will need a set of vice-grips or heavy pliers, a sturdy wire coat-hanger, and maybe some spray lube if the mechanism is rusty/dirty. Everything can be done easily through the front grill, and you should be able to get the hood open in only five to ten minutes.

Step1:

Make the bypass tool. Cut a section of coat-hanger and bend using vice-grips/pliers as follows, approximate section lengths are 9/16", 8", 2-1/4". Only the 9/16" section is somewhat critical. The 2-1/4" section is the tool "handle", the 8" section is the "shaft", and the 9/6" section is the "actuator arm". The handle and arm should be bent in different axes, per the photos, this makes the tool easier to use/rotate.

Step2: Insert the arm portion of the bypass tool through the small slot on the right-hand side of the latch mechanism, as seen from the front. It has to go in UNDER the horizontal spring wire. The hole may be filled with dirt and grease. Gently work the tool in, then push all the way back until you hit the frame member, so you can rotate the tool freely.

Step3:

Rotate the tool until the actuator arm is pointing to your left (9-o'clock). Pull the tool towards you, and then rotate the arm counter-clockwise, trying to catch the internal mechanism in the latch. If you look carefully through the hole in the latch mechanism (where the tool is inserted), you can see the release moving to the left as you rotate the tool. It may take a couple of tries, but the latch will open.

Step4:

Remove bypass tool. Make sure the cable is not out of its track under the hood (on your right if you are facing the engine). This will prevent the mechanism from operating.

Step5: Service cable and mechanism as needed.